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Reconditioning Nintendo 4-Way Joystick or Alternative

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Bender:
You can usually find an original at:
 Mike's arcadehttp://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?action=search&category=Game+Parts&subcategory=Joysticks
Quarterarcadehttp://www.quarterarcade.com/Name.aspx?rgeid=796
They will need some TLC but that's part of the fun!
seems like the have some nice alternatives too

Mine had A Wico on it when I got and I didn't like.
Leaf switches on Donkey kong Just not right for me

DonkeyKong:
A little update...

Tonight I took my Donkey Kong 3 control panel apart and cleaned out all of the white lithium grease I had put in the joystick.  The white lithium grease was definitely dried a bit and had turned into a thick grease, very capable of sticking up the joystick.

I'm pretty sure that green stuff on all of  the screws and nuts is Glyptal, which is an insulating enamel used in electronics quite a bit.  I used straight acetone on a q-tip to dissolve it really fast.

It did take a while to get all of the gunk out of the ball joint, and after a handful of q-tips full of acetone, flux-remover and WD40, a good bath in soap and water with a stiff nylon brush, air compressor dry and re-lube with liquid wrench's silicone spray, I'm pleased to say it's now kicking @55!

With the joystick inserted in the ball joint, and some modest pressure down, I couldn't feel ANY resistance to the typical movements of UP, DN, LF, RT.  It was smooth as silk.  When I reassembled the return plate, spring, switch pusher thingy, and e-clip, the resistance could be felt again... but it was smooth and not sticking so I could care less.  I actually added a couple thin washers behind the e-clip to increase the resistance, or return to center action, on the joystick.

I believe where the return plate rides on the underside of the ball joint cup, there is some metal on metal resistance that could be better.  I might take it apart some time down the road and try to polish that little stamped metal edge of the ball joint cup, and also the return plate.  One might think that would not allow the joystick to return to center properly, but I say it would definitely help it.

So yay!  I don't have any fears of keeping the joystick original now.  If it can be cleaned and re-lubed like this every time, there's really no reason to not use the original joystick.  It's great for these quick movements and you can rest your hand on the control panel for extended play times.  Keeping it original stands for something too ;-)

Now I have to work on my high score!  Watch out Bender!!  I'm coming for you.

Oh, I definitely have to order one of those Braze High Score kits and the D2K romset... $85! But hey it's like two games in one and I feel obligated to support someone who spent to much time and effort making a new version of a game I really really enjoy.

Anyone have an extra nintendo stick they would like to sell me?  I could also trade perhaps for a Donkey Kong marquee or bezel I have.  The marquee is ok with only a bit of paint missing, but the bezel is pretty carved up from hooligans!  But hey, if your name is Mike and you fell in love with Lori and Donkey Kong back in the 80's, this might be worth a fortune!!

I don't want to cannibalize this DK3 control panel now that it's clean and working awexome.  I'm still not sure if I'm going to sell of my DK3 kit or not.  If I could just buy another DK cabinet locally that has everything except a working PCB I would definitely jump on it, and just keep the DK3 machine as-is (it has side art that is about 95% intact, a nice bezel, sweet CP, and alright marquee so it's good to go as far as DK3 is concerned for me).

MaximRecoil:

--- Quote from: DonkeyKong on February 21, 2008, 12:51:37 am ---It did take a while to get all of the gunk out of the ball joint, and after a handful of q-tips full of acetone, flux-remover and WD40, a good bath in soap and water with a stiff nylon brush, air compressor dry and re-lube with liquid wrench's silicone spray, I'm pleased to say it's now kicking @55!
--- End quote ---

Yup, that's exactly the way to do it.


--- Quote ---I believe where the return plate rides on the underside of the ball joint cup, there is some metal on metal resistance that could be better.  I might take it apart some time down the road and try to polish that little stamped metal edge of the ball joint cup, and also the return plate.  One might think that would not allow the joystick to return to center properly, but I say it would definitely help it.
--- End quote ---

It wouldn't hurt to use some grease at that point between the top of the plate and the bottom of the bearing cup, and polishing/deburring both the bottom edge of the cup and the plate would help too if you really want to fine tune it, because that is the main point of friction in the system (assuming everything is clean).

Make sure it still has its 4-way restrictor like it is supposed to.

These sticks are a very simple design and are built to last. I've yet to see one that can't be made to work smoothly again with a thorough cleaning.

Bender:

--- Quote from: MaximRecoil on February 21, 2008, 01:51:41 am ---

It wouldn't hurt to use some grease at that point between the top of the plate and the bottom of the bearing cup, and polishing/deburring both the bottom edge of the cup and the plate would help too if you really want to fine tune it, because that is the main point of friction in the system (assuming everything is clean).

Make sure it still has its 4-way restrictor like it is supposed to.

These sticks are a very simple design and are built to last. I've yet to see one that can't be made to work smoothly again with a thorough cleaning.

--- End quote ---



--- Quote from: DonkeyKong on February 21, 2008, 12:51:37 am --- I actually added a couple thin washers behind the e-clip to increase the resistance, or return to center action, on the joystick.

I believe where the return plate rides on the underside of the ball joint cup, there is some metal on metal resistance that could be better.  I might take it apart some time down the road and try to polish that little stamped metal edge of the ball joint cup, and also the return plate.  One might think that would not allow the joystick to return to center properly, but I say it would definitely help it.


Now I have to work on my high score!  Watch out Bender!!  I'm coming for you.




--- End quote ---
Bring it on... DonkeyKong!!! ;)  actually I haven been able to get past the high 80,000's the last few days ???

Seriously though you guys just gave me an Idea. If we can find A nylon washer that will fit between the bearing cup and  and the return plate it would avoid the metal on metal problem as well as adding some more resistance to the spring (two Birds with one barrel)
I'll try it in the next couple of days and let you know how it works out

MaximRecoil,
Did I read somewhere that you are in Bangor?
I was just there on Saturday

MaximRecoil:

--- Quote from: Bender on February 21, 2008, 02:13:26 am ---Seriously though you guys just gave me an Idea. If we can find A nylon washer that will fit between the bearing cup and  and the return plate it would avoid the metal on metal problem as well as adding some more resistance to the spring (two Birds with one barrel)
I'll try it in the next couple of days and let you know how it works out
--- End quote ---

I've thought of trying that myself; I just haven't gotten around to trying it yet. Should be easy enough to find a thin nylon washer of about the right size at the hardware store. If they make things even smoother, then just buy a handful of them and you should be set for life.


--- Quote ---MaximRecoil,
Did I read somewhere that you are in Bangor?
I was just there on Saturday
--- End quote ---

I'm in Dexter, about 45 minutes' drive from Bangor. I used to go to the arcade in the Bangor Mall (Spaceport) a lot when I was a teenager.

Are you from Maine?

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