Looking for router

[drpcken]

I need to buy a router and possibly a router table (not that important yet).  For building cabinets, what size do I need?  and HP?  I have no idea where to start because I'm not sure what I will require.  edit: to be more specific, should I get a plunge router? fixed base?   I've never used one before     But I know I need one to do my t-molding slot, and I've seen the amazing work the bits can do with other projects.

Any suggestions would be great!

[drpcken]

how about something like this to get me started?
LINK

the 2.25 hp version is also available.

[knave]

I see Amazon has a ton of good deals...check the pricewatch thread.  Others have good luck with Lowes when they have a sale and a rebate.

I bought a small used plunge router from CL for $20 and some bits and I'm done.

Depends on what you need...although I think a 2.25 HP is a good place to start for average tasks. Personaly I think you could do better than that but I have no knowledge of that router.

[drpcken]

awesome thanks!

Like i said my first project with it will be the t-molding for my cab.  Then I may have some fun with it.

[sstorkel]

The big question is: what's your budget? If it's unlimited and you're not sure what types of projects you'll tackle, DeWalt's 3-base DW618 kit is a great way to go. You get a 2.25HP motor, a fixed base, a plunge-base, and a D-handle base. Unfortunately, they don't make a kit that includes the D-handle base and the plunge base as far as I know.

That said, I find that much of my routing is done hand-held (e.g. cutting slots for T-molding, round-overs, template routing). For those tasks, I prefer a small (e.g. 1.5HP) D-handle router. It's much lighter and much easier to control than the 2.25HP Bosch 1617EVSPK that was my first router purchase. I generally prefer a D-handle fixed-base to the traditional two-knob fixed-base. I feel that it gives better control and having the switch at your finger-tips makes for safer operation.

[fjl]

You don't need the router table unless you plan to do something really elaborate. Otherwise the router will mainly be used only for the t-slot groove to put in the t-molding. Or if you plan to recess the joystick into the CP. But for that you can always get a thinner piece of wood like .25", cut the groove, then set it on top of .5" plywood and glue or nail them together.

[squirrellydw]

and you can use it with a pattern bit to make sure all the pieces are the exact same and to trim laminate.

[Paul Olson]

I use my Porter Cable 690 for almost all of my routing. I have a more powerful router, but it only gets used in my router wing on the table saw (and that rarely gets used. The 690 can handle anything you would need to do with a cab. I route out 3/8" for the joystick recess and it doesn't slow it down at all. I don't have a plunge or D-handle base for it, but I would like to get both of them someday, but it works good for me for now. I don't know what your budget is, but Amazon has them for $95 now.

Paul

P.S. Any router can easily handle a T-molding slot. If that is all you need it for, buy a cheap( maybe even used) router and use it until it doesn't do what you need it to.

[Namco]

I too am in the market for a router. I have an RSS feed from Craigslist and am looking for a good deal, but all I ever see are really expensive ones and cheap table routers. My question is, on most table routers, can I just detach the router and use it? Or are they usually fixed?

[fixedpigs]

I too am in the market for a router. I have an RSS feed from Craigslist and am looking for a good deal, but all I ever see are really expensive ones and cheap table routers. My question is, on most table routers, can I just detach the router and use it? Or are they usually fixed?

they're usually fixed....but not permanently...

depending on what router you have...it wouldn't be too difficult to switch from table to handheld...you'd just need to have two bases...so the one base remains fixed to the underside of the table...then you just swap the motor to the handheld base...