Identify the shinobi cabinet and other questions from this noob(w/ pics)

[Crax]

So, these are some of the pics I took of this cab once I got it to my house.  As someone mentioned in another thread, shinobi was a conversion game, so the cab could be anything.  Does anyone recognize this cabinet?  I found a manual for the monitor which has an RCA picture tube and a sticker next to it that said it's a Wells Gardner 19K4906 so I believe that is what it is.  I can see some monitor burn in as well so I'm not sure how much trouble it will be worth.  Also, the monitor label says it's 120v and 60 hz.  I thought the hz was generally less than that on monitors?

The guy who I got this from was going to repair it, but is now moving and didn't  want to move the cabinet with him.  It was already somewhat disassembled when I got it, but supposedly it can start up and get sound but no picture.  Any info or hints on what to get started on would be helpful..plus as you can see in one of the picture's there are some really ugly plastic sides that I plan on replacing with some wood ones painted black that I make.  If for some reason I can't get this working, I will probably just mame it.

Also, any additional info on the board with this label would be appreciated
Cherokee international
Model #LLC
SN 4090970

[Crowquill]

Sente used these cabs for a couple games. The best pic on KLOV is for Snake Pit.

http://www.klov.com/game_detail.php?letter=&game_id=9596

What a weird cabinet for conversion. Could be cool with a little work though.

Check all of the wiring, but it's probably something with the monitor. That's a fairly common monitor. You should be able to find the service manual PDF if you search a bit. A cap kit will need to be done at least.

If you have sound on a Shinobi then you're a step ahead. The suicide battery usually killed the sound. PM me if you decide to part it out --I could use the Shinobi board & harness.

[Encryptor]

Crax not sure what game it is. As far as the monitor you are confusing the 120v 60Hz which is the cycles for the electricity with the refresh rate of the monitor which for arcade monitors is generally much less than that.

Encryptor

[Crax]

Thanks for the info Crowquill and Encryptor.

I guess the cabinet does make a little more sense with the monitor laying down like that in the snake pit cabinet.  The one thing that really surprised me about the cabinet is how frickin heavy it is.  The side panels are wood and plastic, but the rest is metal.

I see some cap kits on ebay for this model, should I just grab one there or is there better places to get it?

[Crowquill]

It's definitely a strange cabinet. Constuction-wise, it looks like it has more in common with the Japanese candy cabs than the traditional American cabinets. That really is an extreme angle that the Snake Pit's monitor is mounted. At least that part of it is fixed for you.

I would imagine that thing is a severe pain to move, but at least the metal panels will be easier to paint later on.

[Crax]

As seen above, there is quite a few scratches/marks on the metal coin door.

What type of paint would I want to use on the coin door?  Can I just touch it up or do I want to repaint the whole thing?

[RayB]

Is it rusted? If not, you could just give it a couple coats of Tremclad or Rustoleum black semi-gloss. Then let it dry for a long time. (It will feel dry within 24hrs, but it takes a LONG time before it becomes hard enough to be scratch resistant--Helps to bake it.)

So the funky plastic sides were painted over? Or were thy removed?

[Crax]

Is it rusted? If not, you could just give it a couple coats of Tremclad or Rustoleum black semi-gloss. Then let it dry for a long time. (It will feel dry within 24hrs, but it takes a LONG time before it becomes hard enough to be scratch resistant--Helps to bake it.)

So the funky plastic sides were painted over? Or were thy removed?

No, it's not rusted, just scratched up.  I will try to get some of what you recommended. 

The plastic sides aren't painted, they are just white plastic.  They are in the second picture from the bottom.  They only take a couple screws to put on.

[Crowquill]

And if you really want to be anal about it like I was, you can break the coin door down into parts before painting. I'd at least take out the red plastic coin return plungers.

On my coin door I just sanded down rough spots and gave it a coat of Krylon Semi-Flat black. I really like the finish of this stuff. The Rust-O-Leum would definitely be more durable though.