Vinyl sideart installation tips?

[releasedtruth]

Well, I'm afraid now. I'm a graphic artist and we were installing some vinyl on a project today at the office and got a ton more bubbles than expected. Big sheet of vinyl, but still. Now it has me afraid I'll screw up my cabinet when I install the art. 2 sheets are 24x24 so that's rough and it's real expensive stuff. How does everyone else get theirs on smooth and flawless?

Thanks, GT

[MikeDeuce]

Did you use a squeegee at all? I use a cheap poly one like this to work bubbles out (with the transfer tape still on the vinyl):

http://www.signwarehouse.com/TT-S-p-HT-SQL-POL6-W.html

If the bubbles are still there and I'm in a hurry to get them out I'll pop them with a very thin needle and work the air out.

If the squeegee doesn't work, I'll usually just wait it out. PVC films do "breathe", as I understand it, so they can go away on their own.

You can try searching the uksignboards, as well: http://www.uksignboards.com/search.php?

Lot's of sign makers on that forum.

Also check out this guy's technique:


He seems to be using bare vinyl and what I would assume is a felt squeegee, though.

[releasedtruth]

Thanks, appreciate it. We squeegied and popped the big ones. It was laid on top of something that wasn't quite perfect so you never know, but mine will be on mdf, no room for moistening or anything on that...

[toe.]

what type of vinyl are you using?

i also work in a graphic shop... and mostly around vinyl.
here is the thing....  it all depends on what type of vinyl you are using.

 the basic kind of stuff from a place like vector or specialty material like 3ms controltac (its mostly used for automotiv wraps). control tac will forgive you pretty much any sin other than fire or cutting a big honking hole in it. it has fibers running through it like duct tape and spring back to its original shape with a little blast from a heat gun (not too much it will still melt!!!)

 the regular day to day stuff... not so much.

mike deuce  mentioned the squeegee (we call them hardcards in our shop) as shown can sometimes snag or flat out scratch and tear your regular vinyl unless its  covered in something( the hard card... not the vinyl)... a sock will do....  i personally use that foam cushioning you put under table legs to keep them from ruining your floors.

if you must... use transfer.... its safer until you get used to it. laminating the graphic, if its printed and not die cut, is a godsend do it do it do it!!!!


the video mike posted is pretty much it... dont tug too hard on the ends though or you will seriously horribly warp image and wrinkle the graphic.

if you dont want to work the whole  2ft by 2 ft section at once you can run a line  of duct tape down the center( tacking it to the mdf or what have you)  then peel one half at a time work from the center to the edge.  its an easy way to start working with vinyl if you arent sure what you are doing yet.

bubbles happen. practice with scrap until you feel comfortable. try it on coroplast, the worst surface ever for bubbles. if you can handle that your could wrap bea arthiurs bottom with nary a run, wrinkle or bubble.
watch out for dust and sandy debris. it will look like a bubble... but it wont come out once your tacked down and will look like crap forever. debris is your own fault.

dont apply it in the sun/ heat.... try to keep your application area reasonably cool. most materials will respond better, less curl, less bubbling on the plotter.

above all just dont be afraid of the vinyl. its not  going to just fall apart... and you can buy it in 50 yard lengths or more, you can always print again. stay away from reflective though... that crap sucks ass.

[releasedtruth]

I found a good alternative. I'll have it mounted on signsteel at the shop so it's not my problem. Then, since it's thin, attach it to the side (hood) of the cabinet. No one would be the wiser. Vinyl is about 10/ft here and signsteel 4/ft so that's not too bad for the 2 side pieces. Well, about 90 bucks. Ouch.

[toe.]

if youre going to mount it on steel now then moisture is no longer an issue.
i highly reccomend, in that case, using a  fluid like master-tac (its like soapy water  but evaporates in less time without a film an without dissovling the glue) before laying the vinyl. the fluid will give you some time to perfectly place your graphic without it sticking. when you then remove the fluid (you can use a rubber squeegee or hard card)the air a fluid will go at the same time.
still use transfer tape if you arent laminating the graphic. if you are laminating,  mist the top of the graphic with as well as the sticky side/ work surface. use a rubber squeegee. it should go on like butter that way.

[arcade-mad]

What TOE said i used to use the method he talks about when appling grafix to my motocross bikes.

also with big bubbles warm up the area with a hair dryer then flatten the bubbles out works out alot easier when the vinyl is warm.

Hope this helps

Regards

[releasedtruth]

It looks like I'm nearly at the point  where I'll have some printing done. Because of the nature of the art I'm going to have the large side panels printed on the mimaki plotter, then 3mil lammed, then attached to the sides. Vinyl on sign steel is just too pricey for what it is, plus its seriously heavy so attachment is an issue. I'm bringing in my hood since it detaches to have them adhere, easier that way. The rest I'll do myself. Application fluid on mdf is a no-no sadly

[subcriminal]

Couldn't you seal it with PVA then apply the vinyl with loads of soapy water? I put all my vinyl art on so it was floating and squeegee'd it out, my cab was painted MDF though.
I'm sure the MDF primer I used had a high PVA content due to the smell