Main > Main Forum

wiring question

<< < (2/4) > >>

BamBam:
If you have two joysticks for eacjh player ie. one 4-way and one 8-way each, you should run the up wire from joystick to the up on the other joystick and then back to the P1 Up on the iPac.  Follow the same procedure for all of the other directions (Down, left, Right).
Hope this helps.

John

P.S. make sure to run your ground wire from on device (COM) to the next and continue around your control panel and back to the ground on your iPac.
Once you get started, you will find it is straight forward.  Just make sure you wire the hot side (P1 Up etc. to the "NO" spade on your joystick.  This just means that the circuit is Normally Open.  If you wire the hot side to "NC" Normally Closed" the program will see that switch as continuously active.

squirrellydw:
OK let me see if I understand this.  I am building a 3 sided cocktail table.  The two ends will each have two joysticks (P360 and a reunion) and four buttons.  I should wire them like you said above.  One wire going from the reunion, than to the P360 then to the IPAC player 1.  Do this each for up, down, left and right.  Then do the same thing on the other CP for player 2.  The third CP will have two P360 a trackball and a spinner.  I was going to wire those P360 to player 3 and 4.  I guess this means I should have player 3 and 4 buttons also right?

I was going to use four differnet color wires, black for common, red for open, green for ground and blue for the LEDS.  Does that sound OK?

You said you get the power from the power supply.  Does it matter what plug you tap it off of?  I thought they were all 12v and the P360 was 5v, am I wrong?

Thanks

MYX:
Off the PC power supply, red = +5v, Yellow = +12v, and black = ground.

Remember to keep an eye on you collective amperage with your LEDs for the GGG ice. they are 20ma each. 20 x 32 = 640 ma meaning that you are 140 over the recomended limit for the LEDWiz, you will need a second +5v tap off of the PC PS.
Also, make sure you do a little testing with the LEDs as you go. you do not have to do a solid wired test, but hook up a section at a time to make sure you did not get any wired backwards. They WILL NOT work if they are wired backwards. Also make sure you have a resistor in line with the LEDs or you will kill them. Go to the GGG website on the LEDWiz page and download the LEDWiz PDF. It is very straight forward. Make sure to note the lengths of the LED leads. This will clue you in to the anode / cathode side.

squirrellydw:


--- Quote from: MYX on August 22, 2006, 01:22:47 pm ---Off the PC power supply, red = +5v, Yellow = +12v, and black = ground.

Remember to keep an eye on you collective amperage with your LEDs for the GGG ice. they are 20ma each. 20 x 32 = 640 ma meaning that you are 140 over the recomended limit for the LEDWiz, you will need a second +5v tap off of the PC PS.
Also, make sure you do a little testing with the LEDs as you go. you do not have to do a solid wired test, but hook up a section at a time to make sure you did not get any wired backwards. They WILL NOT work if they are wired backwards. Also make sure you have a resistor in line with the LEDs or you will kill them. Go to the GGG website on the LEDWiz page and download the LEDWiz PDF. It is very straight forward. Make sure to note the lengths of the LED leads. This will clue you in to the anode / cathode side.

--- End quote ---

WOW, thats sounds confusing. 
As for the resistor, anode and cathode I have no clue.  I will look at it and see if I understand.

Thanks

squirrellydw:
Do I need 3 wires going to each switch?  Its looks like there is one "COM" and two "NO", do I need to attach a wire to both "NO"??

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page

Go to full version