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Anyone make a cab out of anything other than MDF?

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prOk:
What you see on a piano is not paint at all.. it's actually Laquer.   That process involves multiple coats of primer and sanding until you fill all the grain in the wood.  Then in one final coat, you apply a nice black (or whatever) pigmented laquer.   Pianos are different as real wood resonates better so there is a logical reason for wood.

Don't worry about water on pressboard or mdf any more than you would on plywood.  The key is to use a good quality paint and paint it well.  That will act as a barrier against the occasional spill.   Just because plywood doesn't puff when it gets wet doesn't mean other things don't happen.. plywood can delaminate, woodgrains can raise.. many things..  the best solution is to not let it get wet!

DrewKaree:
Go get some regular plywood.  Then go see my project thread.  Use the joint compound as I laid out in there. 

There ARE reasons to use plywood, and it most DEFINITELY is easier to deal with than MDF, not to mention that MDF will dull your tools faster than plywood, perhaps even making it necessary to buy new bits or blades.  You will also find it FAR easier to accidentally damage MDF.  It certainly would be a waste of material though if you were to use cabinet-grade plywood and then paint over it, although it will have a smoother surface to start with (generally) and may give you better results.  I doubt the extra cost would be worth that though. 

If you don't want to see the grain after painting it, the joint compound will work just fine, and it allows you to use a material you sound like you want to use, rather than something else you don't sound entirely confident in using. 

prOk:
Please don't smear wallboard joint compound all over a cabinet to smooth it out.  There's quite a bit of misguided woodworking advice going on here :(

Wallboard compound is by no means an adhesive, nor is it flexible not to mention it's not made to work with wood.  It may look OK day one, but it will scratch, lift and fall out with ease every time you move that cabinet and flex the wood.  If you want smooth sides, start with the appropriate material in the first place.   The very last thing you want to use is cheap old low grade plywood.  You'll spend more time squaring, straightening and smoothing than the stuff's worth.

DrewKaree:

--- Quote from: prOk on August 07, 2006, 11:17:05 pm ---
Wallboard compound is by no means an adhesive


--- End quote ---

Where'd you get the idea I said it was to be used as an adhesive?  It certainly DOES stick to wood, and does so quite well. 


--- Quote ---
nor is it flexible


--- End quote ---

In the amount being used, it doesn't need to be. 


--- Quote ---
not to mention it's not made to work with wood.


--- End quote ---

Yet somehow, it manages to work just fine.


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It may look OK day one, but it will scratch, lift and fall out with ease every time you move that cabinet and flex the wood.


--- End quote ---

Until you've done it, you're guessing at what'll happen.  If you have done it, you haven't had luck with it.  I have, it DOESN'T lift and fall out with ease ANY time you move it, and I have the personal experience to know what you're saying is wrong.  Period.  Scratches?  MDF crushes and "holds" a scratch, making it obvious to the eye and hard to disguise.  If your real issue is scratching, it's a wash at best, and at worst, MDF is the loser in that contest.

As for squaring, straightening, and smoothing, if the guy wants to use plywood, it will work, and you're doing him a disservice by stating possibilities, not known facts.  It's ALSO entirely possible to build something perfectly fine with "cheap old low grade plywood".  Why would you so actively work to tell him things that COULD happen and not say a word about precautions he'll have to take when using MDF?  Things that, if not addressed, WILL cause him problems.

What makes the advice "misguided"?  The fact that you haven't done it, or that you haven't had success with it? 

DrewKaree:
Here.  Why don't you look at the label information. 

Tell me - AFTER reading it - if it "mentions not working with wood" ::)

It's vinyl.  It'll flex.  Won't crumble, flake, or whatever other things you had to say about it.  Who says reading the directions doesn't have its merits? ::)

It's highly insulting for you to state unequivocally that something I have personal experience with is to be considered "bad advice", especially considering one or more of your points are easily disproved, your assertion that it "won't work with wood" is clearly shown to be false by simply reading, in addition to my own experience with this practice (and no, this ISN'T the first time I've done that - it's why I did it in the first place) being able to be pointed to when disproving your assertion.

This isn't just a difference of opinion on my idea.  There are facts to back my idea up, while the only thing you've done in disputing my idea is give possibilities, hearsay, opinion, and flat out false statements. 

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