Removing monitor from MS Pac-man cocktail cabinet...

[Sinner]

I have a MS Pac-man cocktail cabinet that needs to have the monitor repaired.
I was thinking that the easiest way for me to get the monitor fixed, is to remove it from the cabinet, and take it someplace...

What do you think?  Would this work, or do they need it connected to the PCB?

If this would work, anyone know how to take the monitor out??

Thank you.

[SirPeale]

If you take it to a monitor repair tech, likely all they need is the chassis.  Any tech worth his salt has the means to get a display on a monitor already.

If they *don't* have a compatible tube, you may have to bring the whole monitor, no, you don't have to bring the boards with you.

What kind of monitor is it?  I'm guessing Electrohome G07.

And oh yeah...what's the issue?

[Sinner]

If you take it to a monitor repair tech, likely all they need is the chassis.  Any tech worth his salt has the means to get a display on a monitor already.

If they *don't* have a compatible tube, you may have to bring the whole monitor, no, you don't have to bring the boards with you.

What kind of monitor is it?  I'm guessing Electrohome G07.

And oh yeah...what's the issue?

I think it's a 19", WG K4900...I was told by the previous owner that the monitor used to get a little messed up, and they would shut it down for a while, turn it on and it would be fine...then one day it went out, and never came back on...I've flipped the test switch, and the games is making all the right sounds...I hope it's just something simple with the monitor...
I think I may just take the whole monitor out, and bring it in to Starburst and see what they say...

[Sinner]

I spoke to someone today about fixing my monitor...he said I could bring it in, but that it would cost $80 an hour to fix plus parts...he also said that if it was the flyback, he wouldn't touch it...he said it wasn't worth fixing...the parts alone would be $100 used and $300ish new...he said I would be better off getting a new monitor or getting one at an auction...

Starburst was $75 an hour plus parts...cheaper, and closer to home to go there...

BTW, the monitor has no burn-in...looks like there is no power whatsoever to the monitor...the screen shows no signs of life...I assume thats bad and means it could be the flyback...

What do you guys think?  Is it worth paying someone to fix the monitor, or should I just buy a new one??

Thanks,

Matt

[Sinner]

One other thing...if I only need to bring the chassis in...what part is that exactly??

[grantspain]

the chassis is the monitor pcb,if you are not aware of that(and i'm not being rude) how exactly are you gonna remove it from the tube and cabinet?
maybe your best bet is to take the whole cab(its only a table top)to the repair people so they can remove the parts they need to repair.
even if you buy a new monitor are you capable of fitting it yourself?
i know i sound a bit quick but the removal of a chassis or the replacement of a complete monitor are simple but exact operations,one false move and you could waste alot of money.
there are loads of threads on this forum that could help you in this operation but you need to study them and be confident in the execution of the whole job,there are some very high voltages on a monitor and some very delicate parts.
another option maybe is if there is another member of the forum close to you who could help(i live in spain and its bit far to travel).
your fault is either dry/bad solder joints or more than likely a faulty electrolitic capacitor(could be the flyback but unlikely)

[Sinner]

the chassis is the monitor pcb,if you are not aware of that(and i'm not being rude) how exactly are you gonna remove it from the tube and cabinet?
maybe your best bet is to take the whole cab(its only a table top)to the repair people so they can remove the parts they need to repair.
even if you buy a new monitor are you capable of fitting it yourself?
i know i sound a bit quick but the removal of a chassis or the replacement of a complete monitor are simple but exact operations,one false move and you could waste alot of money.
there are loads of threads on this forum that could help you in this operation but you need to study them and be confident in the execution of the whole job,there are some very high voltages on a monitor and some very delicate parts.
another option maybe is if there is another member of the forum close to you who could help(i live in spain and its bit far to travel).
your fault is either dry/bad solder joints or more than likely a faulty electrolitic capacitor(could be the flyback but unlikely)

As far as removing the chassis, I would learn about it, before trying to remove it...I'm pretty sure that's how most do it...I don't know of anyone that was born with the knowledge...Unfortunately, I drive a Honda Civic, so moving thw whole cab is not an option...anyway, it doesn't matter, because I've decided to remove the whole monitor...seems like it would be much easier...
Thanks for the tips...

[SirPeale]

First, check the fuse and make sure the damn thing isn't blown.  I mean the monitor fuse, not the cabinet fuse, although you should check that also.

If it is blown, don't replace it just yet, just let us know.

[Sinner]

First, check the fuse and make sure the damn thing isn't blown.  I mean the monitor fuse, not the cabinet fuse, although you should check that also.

If it is blown, don't replace it just yet, just let us know.

Nah, the fuses were the first things I checked...as far as I can tell they're all OK...one wasn't removable (soldered in place), but I think it's OK...I can't be sure...when I put the continuity tester on it, it was fine, but like I said, I couldn't get it out of the board without desoldering...

[SirPeale]

That can give you a false reading, as you'll read the entire circuit, not just the fuse.

Pigtail fuses suck.