Still have sync issues.. suggestions?

[Nipedley]

As some of you know I just recently installed a capkit onto an MTC 9000, well it did help. Now the screen scrolls upwards on game start (if you're lucky) and locks into position and will mostly stay there (occasionally it will roll) - but that doesnt always happen, sometimes you need to adjust it manually to get it to lock into place.. Obviously this shouldnt be happening, any idea why?
I replaced 11 out of 19 capacitors that were in my capkit (for the "published" mtc 9000 version), and I counted about 13 left on my board that needed replacing (as the cap map didnt match i just did whichever i found). I wrote down the values of the caps that were left, if it would help is there anywhere in the uk that i can buy them online?
If you dont think that is the problem, then what else?

[Jess--]

my suggestion would be to head down to your local tv repair shop (not dixons etc) and ask if you could have a quick go through their dead tv chassis, used to work in a repair shop a long while ago and we never had any objection to people raiding our scrap boards for generic parts like caps as we always replaced with new, would charge them a nominal fee for the parts they took.

the reason I suggest a tv repair sop is that they use almost identical tubes to arcade monitors, and also the actual drive circuit should be pretty much identical aswell.

word of warning as I notice you are UK based like me, be careful of the main caps around the switched mode psu part of tv chassis, they are quite often still charged to well over 200v

[Nipedley]

You think caps would do the trick then? I managed to find a good amount of caps online at Farnell, though thanks for the tips =).
I do have one question though, how do I remove and insert new caps around the LOPT area? It's covered by a metal bracket on my MTC 9000 and there seems to be an ic (or transistor or similar ??)glued onto it so i cant remove it to get to the capacitors properly.. Any ideas?

[Jess--]

my usual method is to ise some very long long nosed pliers from above and desolder from below although I do use an iron with desoldering function (i.e suction in center of tip)

if you have a normal desoldering pump then clear the holes from below (check the pins are completely free, I usually push them with a meter probe) then pull the cap out from above with pliers.

pay attention to the condition of the HT lead from the lopt to the tube, if you are not 100% convinced that the insulation is perfect then discharge the tube before sticking metal objects like pliers (or your fingers) in that area, the 24kv that the tube may have as its charge is capable of arcing a good distance

[Wade]

Are you absolutely sure your sync wires are attached correctly?  I couldn't get my Moon Patrol to sync up after a monitor swap, it was NEARLY locked in, but would occasionally roll.  Turns out I had to do the jumper from H or V sync (the original monitor would take a composite sync to the H pin only).

Wade

[Nipedley]

Hmm well, it is using the original wiring that came with the cabinet - But I will try jumpering H + V together later, just to see if it makes a difference.
If you'd like to see the problem, there is a video up at
(Obviously, the Streets of rage screen is when adjusted - and when changed to Revegne of shinobi it rolls up to lock again.)