Author Topic: my first cab!!! finally! (possibly beavis and butthead theme) (Read 10614 times)

RaggedEdge · « **Reply #40 on:** August 26, 2005, 08:49:06 am »

Looks great so far! I have a similar sander and I don't like it very much. It sands OK, but that little on/off switch thingy on the front of the sander is awefull. It usually takes me several tries to either get it turned on or off. You will be using that later one when you sand down all your surfaces before painting. That was boring tedious part that doesn't give back much reward. How are you planning on painting it? Roller? Brush? Spray?

bossyman15 · « **Reply #41 on:** August 26, 2005, 12:23:24 pm »

Quote from: RaggedEdge on August 26, 2005, 08:49:06 am

Looks great so far! I have a similar sander and I don't like it very much. It sands OK, but that little on/off switch thingy on the front of the sander is awefull. It usually takes me several tries to either get it turned on or off. You will be using that later one when you sand down all your surfaces before painting. That was boring tedious part that doesn't give back much reward. How are you planning on painting it? Roller? Brush? Spray?

well i was thinking about spraying, its a lot easier to do. any flaws with that?

also i was thinking about painting it light blue. but not sure about CP base... and tmolding color

oh and i went to sears and i don't seen to find t molding slot for router... where could i find it? home depot?

RaggedEdge · « **Reply #42 on:** August 26, 2005, 12:51:57 pm »

As far as painting goes, I think spraying with a spray gun would be the best, and I have heard canned spray paint doesn't look too good. I used a Latex Gloss paint that was put on with a really fine foam roller. It is not bad looking, it has an orange peel type texture to it, I was hoping I could make it smoother. Luckily since I used gloss, if you are not standing right up next to it, you don't see the bump texture, and you see the reflections. So from across the room you can't tell mine is not sprayed on. I used an extra piece of MDF I had laying around to try all the painting out before I painted the cabinet (the last photo below). It seems like the general consensus is to use semi-gloss paint, but I liked the gloss. Spraying will make a mess with the overspray unless you deal with it somehow or it doesn't matter (that would make that bowflex look pretty

). I think the best way to paint a cabinet would be to have it done at an auto body type shop with a paint booth, but that would be really costly. I bought my 1/16" slot cutter at Home Depot. I also ordered one from Amazon that was 3/32", but I didn't use it. The t-molding I bought from tmolding.com worked good with the 1/16" cutter, and it will not pop off easy.

ChadTower · « **Reply #43 on:** August 26, 2005, 03:17:28 pm »

You used black paint in that area? Holy hell, you used up all of your life's luck just in not destroying your foyer.

RaggedEdge · « **Reply #44 on:** August 26, 2005, 04:26:34 pm »

ChadTower, That's pretty funny

, no I didn't paint it there. That would be a super quick way to have the project canceled from the significant other. I painted it in the garage, right next to my red sports car though, so I guess I walked the tightrope of luck a little bit.

bossyman15 · « **Reply #45 on:** August 26, 2005, 07:00:39 pm »

mmmm almost done cutting all pices (will have a pic later)

i went to homedepot but they don't have 1/16 slot for t molding

where else could i find it? (went to sears but don't think they have it)

bossyman15 · « **Reply #46 on:** August 26, 2005, 09:08:46 pm »

picture so far...

http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/5765/cimg09547nm.jpg

finally finished cutting all pieces! will start building the base!

bossyman15 · « **Reply #47 on:** August 26, 2005, 10:58:17 pm »

grrrr how disappointing!!!! i called OSH and they said they have slot cutter bit for router but i went over there and they don't have it!!!

well i'll have to order it from tmolding.com

so once i build my base no more work unil i get it in mail!

RaggedEdge · « **Reply #48 on:** August 26, 2005, 11:27:47 pm »

I guess I was lucky to find the slot cutter bit at Home Depot. I don't think Lowe's will have it either. Looks like you will have to wait to connect the sides to the base, but there are other things you can do. You can start assembling the control panel base which if you follow the book requires Velcro and small wood strips, it took me a full day to get the control panel base setup and the guides screwed onto the bottom of the control panel top. One thing I did was practiced drilling pilot holes to see which drill bit would keep the wood from splitting when I tried to screw into it. The base will take a good amount of time to assemble also. Actually come to think of it, I don't see why you couldn't go ahead and add the sides to the base (and all the other back and top pieces also). When you get your slot cutter, you could just lay your panel down on it's side and it doesn't seem like it would be any different than laying on a sawhorse. You'll have disappointments along the way, I know I did

bossyman15 · « **Reply #49 on:** August 27, 2005, 02:17:12 am »

well i'm done for tonight...

the base is done! (execpt for casters)

i was gonna put casters on but i relize that i didnt' buy machine screws and nuts

so i will have to go BACK to wonderland (home depot) to get those after work.

http://img366.imageshack.us/img366/4586/cimg09553zb.jpg

bossyman15 · « **Reply #50 on:** August 27, 2005, 02:24:34 am »

Quote from: bossyman15 on August 27, 2005, 02:17:12 am

well i'm done for tonight...

the base is done! (expect for casters)

i was gonna put casters on but i realize that i didn't buy machine screws and nuts

so i will have to go BACK to wonderland (home depot) to get those after work.

http://img366.imageshack.us/img366/4586/cimg09553zb.jpg

edit: oh i forgot...

this was my first time using wood hot glue.

i was surprised how strong this thing was! i put wood down and BOOM it sticks like iron! i only had like 5 seconds to place it before it sets. (through, the bag said it sets in 60- 90 second $:-\$ )

RaggedEdge · « **Reply #51 on:** August 27, 2005, 06:29:56 pm »

Wow, you are moving along really well. Have you decided if you are going to wait for the slot cutter or go ahead and build the main part of the cabinet?

bossyman15 · « **Reply #52 on:** August 27, 2005, 08:43:04 pm »

i will go ahead and build the rest of it.

arcadefever · « **Reply #53 on:** August 27, 2005, 11:50:38 pm »

whaaaaa you did some nice progress keep the good job

digitalpackrat · « **Reply #54 on:** August 28, 2005, 02:46:58 am »

Quote from: bossyman15 on August 26, 2005, 10:58:17 pm

grrrr how disappointing!!!! i called OSH and they said they have slot cutter bit for router but i went over there and they don't have it!!!

well i'll have to order it from tmolding.com

so once i build my base no more work unil i get it in mail!

not sure if you bought ur slot cutter yet but I found this place online because my home depot was a complete rip off for the slot cutter set. the bit was like $15 and the 1/2" shaft/shank kit for the bit was like $50 I found this place online that only sells router bits and got the whole kit and slot cutter bit for $16 shipped and it only took 4 days to get here even though it said it would take 10 with free shipping. hopefully I'll get a chance to use it this week but I'm still building my frame myself and i'm only putting T-molding really on the control panel so I'm in no rush

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html

Your projects coming along nicely btw keep up the good work

bossyman15 · « **Reply #55 on:** August 28, 2005, 03:42:07 am »

Quote from: digitalpackrat on August 28, 2005, 02:46:58 am

Quote from: bossyman15 on August 26, 2005, 10:58:17 pm
grrrr how disappointing!!!! i called OSH and they said they have slot cutter bit for router but i went over there and they don't have it!!!

well i'll have to order it from tmolding.com

so once i build my base no more work unil i get it in mail!

not sure if you bought ur slot cutter yet but I found this place online because my home depot was a complete rip off for the slot cutter set. the bit was like $15 and the 1/2" shaft/shank kit for the bit was like $50 I found this place online that only sells router bits and got the whole kit and slot cutter bit for $16 shipped and it only took 4 days to get here even though it said it would take 10 with free shipping. hopefully I'll get a chance to use it this week but I'm still building my frame myself and i'm only putting T-molding really on the control panel so I'm in no rush

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html

Your projects coming along nicely btw keep up the good work

mmmm well too bad i already placed my order at tmolding.com. but that's ok. thanks for showing me that.

bossyman15 · « **Reply #56 on:** August 28, 2005, 03:57:48 am »

the only thing i done tonight is rebuilding my base. when i was gonna put caster on, i noticed that the supports are not evenly placed as you can see in the pic. i didn't like the look of it.

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/6434/cimg09562ym.jpg

so i unscrewed the left side one and used hammer to lightly tap the board off the glue.

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/7006/cimg09573zc.jpg

I applied the wood filer and shoved as much of it as i could down the holes.

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/9113/cimg09589th.jpg

but after that when i took a second look... i had a second thought of where boards should be placed. I didn't like the idea of placing the wheels in between as it could cause a balance issue as it would be narrow instead of wide.
so i took another board off as well.

i then draw the line where the casters will be placed. and put the boards in between the casters. i then screw the board back on. I'd say it looks a lot better IMO!

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/6329/cimg09593rd.jpg

well that's it for tonight. i will put on the casters tomorrow once i get back from work. then its time to do homework and continue on Monday.

Bones · « **Reply #57 on:** August 28, 2005, 06:20:15 am »

Making some great progress! Keep the pics coming.

RaggedEdge · « **Reply #58 on:** August 28, 2005, 09:30:03 am »

I like the idea of your support boards on the inside for balance improvements. I'll have to go push on my from the side and see how it wobbles

One thing I should mention that showed up on mine was when my rotating wheels were turned 90 degrees (closest to the support boards) they just barely touched them. I notched out the support boards a little to prevent the wheels from dragging. Yours is looking good so far.

bossyman15 · « **Reply #59 on:** August 29, 2005, 04:37:06 pm »

well i just finished installing the casters. you can see in the pic that it looks like wheels are touching the supports but its not (well very close) but it works!

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/8367/cimg09702hq.jpg

on the ground
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/7010/cimg09691zt.jpg

i may will put sides on today if my friend aren't busy (not sure) and he can come over to help but i'll have to wait and see.

arcadefever · « **Reply #60 on:** August 29, 2005, 05:46:30 pm »

cool good job ....

AceTKK · « **Reply #61 on:** August 29, 2005, 08:27:07 pm »

Yea, MLCS has the best price on the slot-cutter by far. Do yourself a favor and pick up their 1-1/8" forstner bit also to make the button holes in your CP.

-Ace-

bossyman15 · « **Reply #62 on:** September 01, 2005, 01:01:07 am »

well here's my progive (sp?)for now...
http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/7655/cimg09718tj.jpg

i have attached first side on the base (man what a work out!!!!!) i am now putting on second side but i first would like to ask you guys for some tips to make it easier before i do the second side....

well any good tips i could use?

RaggedEdge · « **Reply #63 on:** September 01, 2005, 07:56:35 am »

It looks like they way you are doing it is pretty much what I did. Just try to keep the side panels square with the base. What part was hard? I am guessing trying to keep the base standing up while moving around the heavy side panel to square it up. Now that you have one panel fastened on, I think the second one will go easier because you will not have to be balancing the base as it will be somewhat free standing. I used my sawhorses to also help keep things supported while getting things like I wanted. Here is a picture showing how I used my sawhorses. Also, I stacked blocks of MDF scraps under the base since my garage floor was not level.

bossyman15 · « **Reply #64 on:** September 02, 2005, 11:32:42 pm »

mmmmm i have a bit of problem....

but first pics of what's done so far...

installed second side into place,
installed back bottom section,
(no pic yet) installed (sorta of... not screwed in place but the support block are glued in place) top section (above the marquess)

http://img352.imageshack.us/img352/6669/cimg09723qt.jpg

http://img352.imageshack.us/img352/1073/cimg09738fj.jpg

now on to the problem...

i am now trying to put up the angled back section but it hard to do. i'd need 2 or more people to keep it in postion and my mom aren't strong enought to do that. so... any idea how i could do it myself?

bossyman15 · « **Reply #65 on:** September 05, 2005, 05:51:26 pm »

well finally an update after a while becuase of damn homework!!!

i was able to find a place to put support for angled back section but i am now wondering about something else

see this gap in front of cabint top section.... its about 3/4 inch from front.

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/2210/cimg09745ut.jpg

closer look of gap...

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/6307/cimg09753ao.jpg

now how narrow to the front should it be for maquees to be close flush to front? (say about just less than 1/4 inch)

bossyman15 · « **Reply #66 on:** September 06, 2005, 02:38:05 pm »

boy the help is never around when you need one

anyway i called betson and they said their new shippment should come by this friday.

RaggedEdge · « **Reply #67 on:** September 06, 2005, 03:18:08 pm »

That 3/4" gap at the front where the marquee is looks fine. Mine was the same size. What IS different is the side panels on my cabinet stick up by 3/4". Actually, the side panels stick out by 3/4" all the way down the back side (including the angled section). I don't think there is anything wrong with yours and is shouldn't cause any problems, but I understood from the book that there should be 3/4" sticking up with the side panels

RaggedEdge · « **Reply #68 on:** September 06, 2005, 10:13:23 pm »

I have a little bit more time to write now, so I thought I would show you a link to my project that will show you how my marquee area looks. As you can see, not only do I have a 3/4" section of the side panels sticking out the front, I also have them sticking up. My marquee takes up about 1/4" inch of the 3/4" gap since it is two sheets of 1/8" Lexan with a piece of paper in between.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=41086.msg383185#msg383185

Like I said before, I don't think yours will create a problem, except maybe how the angled piece works in the back. Since it will be higher, it may not line up with the angle on the sidepanel. Still not a big deal.

bossyman15 · « **Reply #69 on:** September 07, 2005, 01:34:54 am »

ok finally i got my slot cutter bit and all 3/4 free sample tmolding in mail today!!!!

http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/1536/cimg09768rt.jpg

bossyman15 · « **Reply #70 on:** September 07, 2005, 02:17:41 am »

mmmm i may will have to bite the bullet and order coin door from happs....

do happs still charge high shipping?

i searched everywhere from ebay to www.coinopwarehouse.com, i even posted in BST fourm but no luck...

Bones · « **Reply #71 on:** September 07, 2005, 02:32:17 am »

Quote from: bossyman15 on September 07, 2005, 01:34:54 am

ok finally i got my slot cutter bit and all 3/4 free sample tmolding in mail today!!!!

http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/1536/cimg09768rt.jpg

Man, those samples are excellent. All I could get was black.

Keep the updates coming.

bossyman15 · « **Reply #72 on:** September 07, 2005, 06:45:40 pm »

my update so far...

there was a bit change of top section of cabinet, i pulled the angled seciton back a bit so that the back of it will match the flush of bottom section. however now there was the gap between the angled section and top section. but i fixed that by puting the srcaped wood in between...

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/2343/cimg09775ec.jpg

and put LOTS of hot glue to hold it there.

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/4282/cimg09794gh.jpg

after that i screwed in the top section

the finished pic...

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/9302/cimg09804ou.jpg

ready for tmolding groove!!!

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/1663/cimg09810yl.jpg

i'd say tmolding went smoothly... the slot cutter cut through MDF like butter. no mistake at all!

this is the mess after cutting...

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/33/cimg09820jp.jpg

well now i plan to put in higher back seciton (under the angled section.) however i plan to make that a door to make a easy access to the monitor.

enjoy

bossyman15 · « **Reply #73 on:** September 07, 2005, 08:50:06 pm »

Quote from: bossyman15 on September 07, 2005, 06:45:40 pm

my update so far...

there was a bit change of top section of cabinet, i pulled the angled seciton back a bit so that the back of it will match the flush of bottom section. however now there was the gap between the angled section and top section. but i fixed that by puting the srcaped wood in between...

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/2343/cimg09775ec.jpg

and put LOTS of hot glue to hold it there.

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/4282/cimg09794gh.jpg

after that i screwed in the top section

the finished pic...

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/9302/cimg09804ou.jpg

ready for tmolding groove!!!

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/1663/cimg09810yl.jpg

i'd say tmolding went smoothly... the slot cutter cut through MDF like butter. no mistake at all!

this is the mess after cutting...

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/33/cimg09820jp.jpg

well now i plan to put in higher back seciton (under the angled section.) however i plan to make that a door to make a easy access to the monitor.

enjoy

also would someone answer my question about happ in my last post?

bossyman15 · « **Reply #74 on:** September 08, 2005, 02:05:24 am »

also i was wondering what's the purpose of the speaker panel?

the size of speaker panel as shown in project arcade book is 24x26 inch!!!!

why is it so huge?!

i'm pretty sure that big size is not needed!!! unless it has other purpose?

bossyman15 · « **Reply #75 on:** September 09, 2005, 09:38:38 pm »

very disapointing!!

i drilled 2 holds for european cabinet hinges... but when i put the door (the back door) on it aren't even!!!!!!

i surely hope i could fix it!!! but if i can't i may just screw it and just make that part a perminent part.

anybody got any tips on how to fix it?

what i did so far is wood putty the screw holes hoping that when it becomes hard i could drill it and make it even...

would that work?

EDIT: well i was able to fix it...

it was just as i thought, the wood putty, even when dry and hard, woudlnt' hold the screws so i had to use a LOT of hot glue on it. and it works! while it aren't 100% perfect, its still good enought for me to live with it. HOWEVER....
the door bends down a bit because of the weight of the door, (note the clamp under the door to hold it up)
did you guys have that problem? if so, how do you guys overcome it?

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/6756/cimg09831md.jpg

tivogre · « **Reply #76 on:** September 11, 2005, 02:22:15 am »

In the future, for filling large areas, you may want to consider fiberglass re-enforces auto body filler (Bondo).

Much stronger than wood filler, and completely sets up in about 15 minutes.

bossyman15 · « **Reply #77 on:** September 26, 2005, 11:16:26 pm »

well hello everybody!!! been maybe 2 weeks since my last update!!!

i decided to wait until i finish the main part of the cabinet before posting more updates...

well here it is!!!

http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/3690/cimg09958hu.jpg

my coin door
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/1921/cimg09947cu.jpg

this is TV i will be using as my monitor, model: JVC AV-27530 costs close to $250, half price of arcade monitor!!!
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/5214/cimg09893ai.jpg
the camera doesn't work on TV very well so it makes it look a lot worse than in life.

the only work left for me to do is to fix the keyboard drawer up a bit and repair the tmolding grove around the CP area. (the grove wasn't perfectly centered, don't know how that happened)

well there are some changes in my plan since then...

1) i have been thinking i may not go with beavis and butthead cab. the more i think of it the more i thought it would be to hard for me to get the pics i need for cabinet arts.
so i decide to go with simpler theme which was one of my idea before i thought of beavis and butthead.

ARCADEFOREVER

yes one word but arcade would be red and forever would be yellow or blue (not sure yet) so it wouldn't look like it is really one word but 2 words. with subtitle under it "THE GAME IS NEVER OVER" it does really blend together.

2) cabinet would be black instead of blue for BB theme. but not sure of color for tmolding. maybe blue.

after i am done with leftover work it would be time for me to start drawing up the artwork and CP layout...

ginno · « **Reply #78 on:** September 27, 2005, 02:00:05 am »

I have a JVC like that @ home and it dosent have s-video, i hope yours does as it will result in a much better picture than RCA

Looks good

Cheers.

bossyman15 · « **Reply #79 on:** September 27, 2005, 02:02:08 am »

Quote from: ginno on September 27, 2005, 02:00:05 am

I have a JVC like that @ home and it dosent have s-video, i hope yours does as it will result in a much better picture than RCA

Looks good

Cheers.

yes it does have s-video

you can see the s-video cable in the pic


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