Just Another Bartop MAME Unit...

[Sinner]

I decided to build a full upright unit...it's the only way to really enjoy MAME, so I started planning and collecting parts,,,my GF was in full agreement, but she thought I should start small and build a bartop unit for the bar at her parents house first...that way I could learn how to use my tools, and hopefully learn from the whole experience...
Well, here it is months later, and I've started the bartop...I bought a sheet of 3/4" MDF, misc parts (screws, brackets, etc), and a bunch of tools...controls so far TStik Plus, HAPP buttons, minipac and HAPP 2 1/4" TB...I have an old 15" monitor and some old PCs kicking around...
I've actually designed it, started cutting and done some dry fitting...what a learning experience...I'll post pictures as I get them scaled down...right now they're about 5MB each...

[markrvp]

Sounds like a great project.  I'll be following along.

[Sinner]

I designed it on graph paper, then cut it to size on carboard, to see if it would work...
I'm a complete newbie to using power tools and working with wood, so please take it easy on me...
Here are some pictures...
The first is a collection of parts I have...I'm sure I can use them somewhere...
The second is my cardboard bartop...

[Sinner]

My plans ended up changing a little, and since the modifications were so small, I didn't bother doing another cardboard mock-up...
Here's some shots as I was building...everything so far has been cut and dryfitted...
I still have to cut the2 back pieces...make sure it's even...take it all apart...glue it...and put it all back together...
It's not as difficult as I thought it would be, but I've only just started, so gimmie time to have some spaz-outs...

[dphirschler]

Nice design.  I like the shape.  One thing, I am not clear on where you plan to put the speakers.


Darryl

[Sinner]

Nice design.

[markrvp]

I haven't even bought a router yet (I'm not sure what to look for)...I have found slot bits though, but I'm not sure the exact size I'll need, so I'm waiting for my T-molding to arrive before I purchase one...

If your T-molding is fairly standard, then the slot cutting bit you need is 3/32"   You probably won't find it at Home Depot or Lowe's so you can do two things:

1.)  Order the 3/32" slot cutting bit online from ROCKLER or another supplier of router bits
2.)  Get a 1/16" slot cutting bit locally and make two passes to get the slot to 3/32"

[Sinner]

I haven't even bought a router yet (I'm not sure what to look for)...I have found slot bits though, but I'm not sure the exact size I'll need, so I'm waiting for my T-molding to arrive before I purchase one...

If your T-molding is fairly standard, then the slot cutting bit you need is 3/32"

[spriggy]

I haven't even bought a router yet (I'm not sure what to look for)...I have found slot bits though, but I'm not sure the exact size I'll need, so I'm waiting for my T-molding to arrive before I purchase one...

If your T-molding is fairly standard, then the slot cutting bit you need is 3/32"

[markrvp]

Thanks for the correction, Spriggy.  5/64", not 3/32"    My personal experience with using 3/4" T-molding with 3/4" MDF was that the 1/16" slot was not wide enough.  The malleting pressure needed to drive it in caused flat spots in the T-molding around the cab.  Therefore, I suggest the larger bit, even for 3/4".

You can order one from T-mold.com here:  http://www.t-mold.com/product/sc-5X.htm

There is also a nice T-molding FAQ here:
http://www.t-mold.com/faq.htm

[MameMe]

Did you use glue to help hold those sides on?

[Sinner]

Did you use glue to help hold those sides on?

Not yet, I'm dry fitting it first...I want to make sure everything lines up properly, then I plan to take it apart, glue it and reassemble...you probably can't see it very well in the picture, but I only have a few screw holding it together...once glued, I'll put them all in and use wood putty to fill in the holes...
Am I on the right track so far, or will I run into problems, but disassembling??

[markrvp]

It will be easier to cut out the holes for the joystick and buttons before you assemble the cabinet.

[Sinner]

It will be easier to cut out the holes for the joystick and buttons before you assemble the cabinet.

Yeah, in the picture it's just wedged in there and has a stick holding it up...
I was thinking of putting some piano hinge at the front, and I'm trying to figure out some way to lock it down at the back...that way I'll at least be able to open it up if I need to work on it...
I'm planning on putting some pinball buttons at the sides, so maybe I can come up with some sort of latch that hooks around them...I haven't worked that part out yet...
Any ideas??  Maybe I should just screw the CP into place...?

[str1der]

Actually if you use a hinge you could just use heavy velcro on the underside to keep it  down. that's what I used to attach my full size control panel to my cabinet and it doesn't budge.  Makes it very clean with no screws.

[Sinner]

Actually if you use a hinge you could just use heavy velcro on the underside to keep it

[Sinner]

OK, so I picked up a 2/25" trackball and my T-molding from Starburst yesterday...I still need to buy a router and slot cutter bit, but I found a place that sells them...apparently, there's only one in Canada, so I'll be scooping that up as soon as I can...
I've changed my plans a little, but I think it'll work out well...I'm going to add a cross member and a couple of access doors, so it'll be easier to to maintenance once complete...I'll need to do some other things to strengthen the structure...
Anyone have any comments, or suggestions?

Thanks..

[spriggy]

Thanks for the correction, Spriggy.

[markrvp]

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I think adding a support at the bottom will add considerable rigidity to the cabinet and prevent it from swaying from side to side.  As long as the access door is inside the side panels it will do the same thing, but I like a fixed brace.

[Baker535]

I agree with another poster that it's got a real nice shape and size, you are seriously reminding me why bartops can be so cool... Hrm maybe a conversion of my concept plans might be geared better on this type of a platform. At least it would be easier to manage since I'm roughly in the same boat... little woodworking skills and lack of proper tools. If only I could get away with balsa like when I build models

-baker

[Sinner]

I used to make balsa wood planes...I wasn't very good at them either, but at least they flew...
I've decided to add the cross member at the bottom (thanks for the suggestion), one at the top, and I've decided to cut two 2" cross members that have a 45 degree angle for the angled part of the top...I will add piano hinge to that, and have an access door...
I haven't had much time to work on this lately, and I'm going away for this long weekend...hopefully next week I can get some done...I'm anxious to start painting...
Thanks for all your comments...I'll post more pics when I get them, and as always, any suggestions you have are more than welcome...

[Sinner]

Well, I finally bought a router, but I still have to buy some bits, before I can start working with it...I've gotten a lot of other things done though:
All has been taken apart and glued...
Cross members added...
Access doors installed...
CP drilled for buttons and joystick (TB when I get the bits for my router)...
Monitor mounted into frame (not into the bartop though, too heavy to do alone)...
Wood putty has been put on the screw holes, and some sanding has been done...

I still have a lot to do...I hope to post more pictures before the weekend...
Thanks markrvp, for the suggestion for the lower crossmember...it's going to make a huge difference once the monitor and guts are installed...

[atari2600chick]

Very nice bar top

[Sinner]

Very nice bar top

[froggerman]

Well, I finally bought a router, but I still have to buy some bits, before I can start working with it

Did you find a place to get your slot cutter for the t-molding? If not, Home Depot will order them for you, any Freud dealer can get them and KMS Tools in Coquitlam will mail-order them to you.

[Sinner]

Well, I finally bought a router, but I still have to buy some bits, before I can start working with it

Did you find a place to get your slot cutter for the t-molding? If not, Home Depot will order them for you, any Freud dealer can get them and KMS Tools in Coquitlam will mail-order them to you.

Thanks for the info, I called the Freud Canadian distributor, and there not far away from where my GF lives...they had 2X 1/16 bits left, so I ordered one...comes to $29CDN + TAX...about $33.35
There's hardware store next to Freud that took my order, and I'll pick it up this weekend...I can't wait to give it a go...

[atari2600chick]

Hey, thanks...I'm already planning my upright, and have most of the parts purchased...I'm anxious to start on it, but I promised my GF to get hers done before I start mine...she also wants me to build us a juke box, but that won't be until after mine is complete...I'm glad she shares in my obsessions...

Glad to hear that your girlfriend shares in your obsession, it certainly helps when building arcade cabinets. Sounds like it was a good move building her the bartop first coz otherwise you might just end up fighting over the controls when you build the upright

[Sinner]

HA! Those are a good idea...she actually does help me build...she's a very good supervisor...
We're supposed to be picking up a slot cutting bit tomorrow, and the TB mounting kit should be in sometime this week...unfortunately I have to work all day tomorrow, so we won't be working on the cabinet for the rest of the weekend, but we hope to start on the painting next week...

[Sinner]

One more...

[Sinner]

Is it possible to paint before routing for the T-molding, or is it better to wait until after?

[markrvp]

Is it possible to paint before routing for the T-molding, or is it better to wait until after?

I prefer to rout first, paint second.  Otherwise you may scuff or scratch the paint with the router base.

[stellarola]

Hey, glad to see this thing is finally taking some serious shape, not much else to do on it, eh? I wish I would finish my dreamcast bartop cab  .

[Sinner]

Is it possible to paint before routing for the T-molding, or is it better to wait until after?

I prefer to rout first, paint second.

[Sinner]

Hey, glad to see this thing is finally taking some serious shape, not much else to do on it, eh? I wish I would finish my dreamcast bartop cab

[Timoe]

Where will you mount the PC?  Will the PC be in its case?

[Sinner]

Where will you mount the PC?

[KenToad]

Hey Sinner,

  Awesome work on that bartop.  I love the lines on that one and the way that the marquee doesn't stick out too far.

Cheers,
KenToad 

[Sinner]

Hey Sinner,

[Sinner]

I bought a slot cutter last night, but I haven't had a chance to play with it...I'm not exactly sure how it works...it has a bearing at the bottom, but do I need a guide at the top too?  I have some attachments that came with my router, but I have no idea what size, etc...I'm also not exactly sure how to set the depth...BUT...like I said, I haven't had a chance to play with it yet, so for all I know it may be really easy...

[AlanS17]

Actually if you use a hinge you could just use heavy velcro on the underside to keep it

[Sinner]

Actually if you use a hinge you could just use heavy velcro on the underside to keep it

[markrvp]

It doesn't appear that your slot bit needs anything else.  There is not a separate guide roller on top, just the bottom.  If your MDF is 3/4" then the depth of the slot bit's center needs to be at 3/8" so that the slot is in the exact middle of your material. 

I normally set the bit with a precision ruler and make a test cut in some scrap material.  I measure both sides of the cut to make sure the amount of wood on each side is the same measurement.  If not, I adjust and make another test.

See the pic below:

[AlanS17]

Why is it that Mark always has a picture for everything... Oh yeah... He's a photographer. 

I will definitely second the comment about a test cut. I found that one out the hard way once. And do it before you paint or apply laminate or sideart. Also, it wouldn't hurt to extent the groove around the bottom a little bit so you can tack it down and hold the ends in place.

[Sinner]

Thanks for the tips guys...
Tonight my GF and I worked on the unit, and what a time we had...
I measured and marked the middle of my MDF, then I setup the router and did a test cut...everything went fine, I pounded in a piece of T-molding (a very tight fit) and it was good...I then grabbed the bartop and started to route...this is when the trouble began...
I have the whole thing screwed and glued together...the problem with that, is that I screwed it from the sides and used metal "L" brackets for support...
The next thing I know sparks are flying and a chunk of something scratched my arm enough to make it bleed...the screws are too close to the side to route the whole thing using the guide...I did my best to not go so deep near the screws, and I finally finished...I tested with a piece of T-molding to make sure it would fit where the screws were, and it did...

Lesson learned: Route T-molding slot, before you screw everything together...

We put on 2 coats of primer, and I got one coat of paint on, just before I went to bed...
I also installed the TB mounting kit...I can't wait to start wiring, but I can't until I can design / find some artwork, and figure out how to cut the plexi I bought...

I'll post some more pictures tomorrow...
Thanks again...I really appreciate all the help...

[AlanS17]

If you screw into the surface, the base won't glide across it easily. I microscopic little bump on the wood can make the base jump.

[dphirschler]

Somebody suggested routing the t-molding groove before applying laminate.  I disagree.  The laminate adds about 1/16th" to the thickness of your wood (per side).  That needs to be considered both when cutting the groove, and in choosing the thickness of the t-molding.  It's especially important to laminate first if you are only laminating one side of your wood as I am (the other side will be stained).


Darryl

[NinjaEpisode]

Somebody suggested routing the t-molding groove before applying laminate.

[Sinner]

Somebody suggested routing the t-molding groove before applying laminate.

[Sinner]

Somebody suggested routing the t-molding groove before applying laminate.

[markrvp]

My T-molding seems to be a little on the short side...when it's on, there seems to be about 1/32 or so of wood showing...once it's painted, this won't show...maybe I need to pound it flatter or something...

Hammer it in a little farther to flatten it out 

[Sinner]

My T-molding seems to be a little on the short side...when it's on, there seems to be about 1/32 or so of wood showing...once it's painted, this won't show...maybe I need to pound it flatter or something...

Hammer it in a little farther to flatten it out

[Sinner]

Well, I've got about four coats of paint on this thing now, and I decided to finally put the T-molding on...what a job, but I think I finally got the hang of it...I had to cut notches out of the bends in the corners, and I had to trim a little off certain areas, because of interfering screws...I'll know better for the next one I build...the least amount of screws I can put in the sides, the better...

[Timoe]

Looking good.

What are the dimensions of the thing?  Overall width etc?

[Sinner]

Looking good.

What are the dimensions of the thing?

[Sinner]

Just a little update...I tried making a bezel...it's OK, but I may try again later on...

[cbmeeks]

looks damn fine to me!

What kind of computer did you use?

cbmeeks

[Sinner]

looks damn fine to me!

What kind of computer did you use?

cbmeeks

Thank you very much...I actually haven't built the PC part of it yet...I have an old PII 450, that I think I'm going to use, for now at least...I have an AMD 733MHZ and I've been using that to play with I may put it in an upright...so far I've setup MAME, DAPHNE, Nebula, and a few console emulators...I've also setup Ultrastyle, GameEX and MAMEWAH...I think I'm going to go with Ultrastyle for the bartop, because that's the one my GF likes the most...I haven't even been thinking of the PC and setup, I guess I should start, as I think I'll be finishing soon...

[CJK]

This project is turning out great! I've been thinking about building a cab for a friend for a housewarming present (he has a game room in it that I'm envious of), and a bartop would be perfect. Thanks for the inspiration!

Can't wait to see it in finished form!

-- Chris

[Taborious]

I saw you were going to post some measurements but I don't see them anywhere. I built a fullsize cab but Im looking to build a bartop for the father-in-law and liked your layout the best. Can you post the deminsions for the bartop? thanks...

[Sinner]

I saw you were going to post some measurements but I don't see them anywhere. I built a fullsize cab but Im looking to build a bartop for the father-in-law and liked your layout the best. Can you post the deminsions for the bartop? thanks...

I will do some measurements tonight and post them...right noe I know it's 19.5" wide and has a 15" monitor, but it could fit a 17"...

[Taborious]

Thanks Sinner, I'll wait patiently...

[Sinner]

OK, 19.5" wide, by 27" deep, by 25.25" high...
A little on the big side, I think...

[Timoe]

"OK, 19.5" wide, by 27" deep, by 25.25" high...
A little on the big side, I think... "

Yeah, I dunno.  I think I'd need to see more completed pictures and pictures of the machine running. 

[Sinner]

"OK, 19.5" wide, by 27" deep, by 25.25" high...
A little on the big side, I think... "

Yeah, I dunno.

[Taborious]

Guess I'll have to just eyeball it from your pics on the post. There are some good pics so hopefully I'll be OK. Id doesn't have to be exact it would have just been a little easier. Thanks for taking a look and good luck with you uprights...