Looking Good. Was Got Picture after Horizontal Line after Cracked Neckboard.

[Witchboard]

Can you just order replacement neckboards or do you have to buy a complete chassis?  I don't know what model number it is yet, because it's really dusty and I didn't want to stick my hands where they don't belong.  Looks like the tube was a Mitsubishi, but I can get more numbers later.  Just wondering what my options were.

[Ken Layton]

If it's a Wells-Gardner monitor from 1988 and later you can buy replacement neckboards straight from them. Cost is from $30 to $85 depending on model number and picture tube number it's used on.

I think Happ Controls sells neckboards for their brand and I think Betson-Imperial (which is really a Kortek) does too.

[Witchboard]

Cool.  Thanks Ken.  I'll have to see if I can find the numbers on that thing.

[menace]

Although if you are paying anywhere close to 85$ just buy an 8-liners and be done with it--you get a whole new set-up.  then sell the non-working on e-bay for 10-20 and reduce your costs.  just a thought...

[Witchboard]

Somebody said that I should be able to re-solder the runs on the neckboard that were broken where it's cracked.  Would it be okay to do this or would it be dangerous, as in a fire hazzard or anything?

[MonitorGuru]

Yes you can resolder, but first firmly glue the board together with a strong strong glue--NOTHING heat sensitive or of course electrically conductive.  Epoxy should work pretty well.

Then take some 18 gauge or thicker (16, 14) wire , remove the plastic shell leaving just the wire. Twist it tightly.  Cut about 1/2" piece of these out.

Now tin (coat and flow solder into them with a soldering iron)  each of them. It might work easier to tin a long strand first, then use a stronger cutter to cut the 1/2" size pieces.

Now apply new fresh solder to all the joints, 1/4" on each side of the crack.  After reflowing solder, then place the tinned pieces of wire centered over the crack and flow it into the trace, ensuring you don't cross anything.

This will result in a very strong restoration that will be hard to rebreak. The wire strands will help support the board across the crack in addition to the glue.

Take a close look at the traces and also double check the component side to be sure nothing has been compromised (e.g. leads of components crossed touching another one, or cracked components, etc..)

Good luck!

[Witchboard]

Thanks.  I'll give it a shot!

[Witchboard]

Okay.  We fixed the neckboard and the monitor is working.  Sort of.  We have a horizontal line across the center of the monitor.  The brightness changes with the game, so I'm presuming it's getting a correct signal from the board.  I'll do a search and see if I can find anything.  Just thought I would ask here while I look.  Thanks guys.

[MonitorGuru]

You have a vertical deflection problem.  Look for:

- A switch, on the neck board OR main chassis that is labeled Service or something similar. Some monitors have a mode to collapse the vertical to do special adjustments. It may have been moved or is broken/etc..
- Broken yellow or green wire on the yoke
- Not fully connected connector on the circuit board, again, should be yellow/green pair, should be in line with the red/blue.
- Check for a cold solder joint on the bottom of the circuit board under the yellow/green posts.

If the above doesn't fix it then you may have bigger problems in the deflection circuit, but should NOT be related to the neckboard repairs since you have image and horizontal deflection working.

Don't run the monitor long (like more than a few seconds) with this otherwise you will etch that line into the screen.. You're collapsing 240+ lines into 1 line, so it will "burn in" that many times faster over that small space.

[Witchboard]

Thanks.  I'll have another go at it.  I'm presuming this issue was present before the neckboard was broken.  The monitor already has burn in where the line is when powered up.  Thanks for all the help.  I'll let you know how it turns out.  I have the cabinets I'm working on housed at my parents house.  I don't have the storage room.    So, it will be next weekend before I get another chance.

[MonitorGuru]

Ah, so they left it on in that condition for a while.   Yeah, it could be a simple connection problem or it blew a component in the circuit too.

If its got the etched line then you will want to do a tube swap on it too.  At that point, if the vertical collapse isn't a simple connection, it may be just easier to start new.. butthat's just me.

[Witchboard]

What's a butt hat?  LOL.. just kidding.  The burn in isn't that bad when behind smoked plexi, which it came with.  We'll see if we can get it working then decide how bad it may be.  Thanks again for all the tips.

[Witchboard]

Okay.  I took a look at the monitor again and couldn't find any issues with any of the previous suggestions.  Should I just pull the neckboard and chassis off and start checking components with a multi-meter or should I now purchase a cap kit and try that?

[MonitorGuru]

A cap kit isn't going to fix a complete lack of vertical deflection, at least usually.

I'd start at the two vertical pins on the chassis connector and start tracing back with a multi-meter until you find a place where you have infinite resistance... that's where your failed component likely is at.

Not guarenteeing you will find it, but if it's something obious you should find it.  Remember transistors and diodes you'll need to check with the correct polarity to see if they show the correct drop across them.

Again, a neckboard replacement will not fix a lack of vertical deflection. No deflection = bad yoke, bad wire connecting to yoke, bad connector on chassis or bad components in the vertical deflection circuit.  The neckboard has nothing to do with deflection, only tube internals (focus, screen, RGB guns, heater)

[Witchboard]

Thanks.  Now that I've pretty much got all my cabinets in line, I can actually start working on individual ones.  I'll get to work next weekend and let you know how it turns out.  Thanks for all your help MonitorGuru.

[Witchboard]

Hmm.. my father and I tried the yoke flip.  When you do that, shouldn't the horizontal line I have turn into a vertical line?  Just wondering, because it didn't.

I also found out what the monitor is.  It's a Sega MC-2000-S.

[Ken Layton]

Aha! You have a Sega (in reality a Nanao) MC-2000-S. These are well known for bad caps causing your deflection problem. Install Zanen Electronics capkit # 603 and you should be good to go.

If we would have known the make/model earlier it would been helpful.

[Witchboard]

Let's hope it's that easy, or as easy as installing a cap kit is.  I know it would have been easier if I would have ID the monitor in the first place.  I wasn't sure if this kind of problem would make a difference.  Guess now I know.    I'll order up a cap kit and let you know the results.  Once again, thanks for all your help. ^_^

Hmm.. Bob doesn't seem to have that cap kit.  He's got the map, but nothing else.  Anybody know where I can purchase one of these kits?  I can do a google, but was hoping you guys would know the most reasonable price already.

[MonitorGuru]

Hmm.. my father and I tried the yoke flip.  When you do that, shouldn't the horizontal line I have turn into a vertical line?  Just wondering, because it didn't.

I also found out what the monitor is.  It's a Sega MC-2000-S.

I hope you mean you only swapped the red with blue wires  and then the yellow with green wires.  NOT red with yellow or green and blue with the other!

A "yoke flip" either gives you a mirror image (if you only swap one set) or a complete 180 degree rotation (if you swap both sets).  NEVER EVER NEVER EVER swap them across each other... You will fry the yoke or chassis.  THe same reasoning applies to finding "matching yokes" on the vertical.  If you swapped vertical for horizontal, thinking you will rotate the orientation (instead of mirroring the image) you iwll be feeding the vertical deflection circuitry a 2 ohm coil and in turn feeding the horizontal circuitry a 15 or 55 ohm coil.... both of which is far enough of of their ranges to ruin something.

Try switching yellow and green only: You will create a mirror image on the vertical plane of the monitor. (a normal TV picture will be upside down) but left will still be left, and right is still right.

Try switching red for blue only: You will create a mirror image on the horizontal plan. (A normal TV picture will be right side up but the image will be backward from left to right)

Now switch yellow for green AND red for blue.  Now you have essentially rotated the monitor 180 degrees. The picture will be upside down and left will be right and right left.  Twist the tube 180 degrees and you have  a normal picture again.

[Ken Layton]

Bob Roberts has this capkit listed under "Sega-Nanao: MC2000S" and it's $6.00 You can also buy it from Zanen Electronics (kit # 603) at (806) 829-2780.

[Witchboard]

Doh.  I was looking under the wrong thing at Bob's.  Sorry about that.  Sometimes his site can be a little confusing... well, to me that is.

MonitorGuru, we tried the last thing you described.  The way you explain it, I guess it wouldn't have went vertical, just horizontal but upside down.  Thanks for explaining it in further detail.

[Witchboard]

Okay, I FINALLY got to work on this and installed the cap kit.  The problem still exists.  Any other things I can check?

[Witchboard]

I guess this weekend I'll check the vertical transistors.  Am I going in the right direction?

[Ken Layton]

Check these components:

Transistors Q401 & Q402. Both are type 2SD1138 for the vertical output stage.

Resistor R416 (22 ohm fusible)

[Witchboard]

Will do.  Thanks again for the tips Ken.

[Witchboard]

We found out that the R416 fusible resistor is bad.  We are trying to find a replacement, but the closest we've found is a "NTE replacement Resistors 22 OHM 1W 5% FUSIBLE" at mouser.  The manual calls for a FMR 1/4C 22ohm-J.  Does the 1/4C mean watts?  Also, would the mouser replacement work or do you guys have any other sources for something like this?  Thanks.

[Ken Layton]

Yes, it should work fine. Looks like the manual says 1/4 watt.

[Witchboard]

So is wattages on resistors kinda like volts on capacitors?  It's okay if you replace one with larger value but never use a smaller?

[Ken Layton]

In general, yes. Just remember that larger wattage resistors are bigger physically and their leads are bigger diameter and may have a tough time fitting thru the holes in the circuit board.

Look at the resistor you took out. Is it a 1/4 watt size? If so then I just use a good quality Metal Oxide resistor instead. Use an MCM Electronics (www.mcminone.com) # 66-22 (1/4 watt) or # 37-22 (1/2 watt) and you'll be fine.

[Ken Layton]

Heck, if you want to get the monitor running right now, I suggest going to Radio Shaft and buying # 271-1103 resistors. They'll work and it'll only cost a buck.

[Witchboard]

Thanks Ken.  I'll give it another shot.  I bet when you first got involved in this thread you didn't expect to have to teach a crash course in general electronics.  

[Witchboard]

My father went ahead and installed a resistor.  Looks like that was the main problem.  It's not pretty, but at least it fills the entire screen.  Probably just have to play with some settings, since every pot on the monitor has probably been turned.  Thanks for everyones help involved in this.  I couldn't have done it without you guys.

[Ken Layton]

Looks like you need to adjust the "Screen" and "Focus" pots on the flyback.

[Witchboard]

Just wanted to thank everybody who helped us out.  We are pleased with our first monitor repair and if it weren't for you guys, we would have given up and trashed it long ago.  Thanks again.

[Ken Layton]

Looks good!

[Rahzel]

I also want to thank MonitorGuru for his post about fixing a broken neck board. I just soldered my neck board that was nearly cracked in half and it worked the first time! With little soldering skills Thank god for this forum..

[AceTKK]

No real info. to contribute but I just wanted to say that this forum is, and will remain, a wonderful resource as long as friendly, knowledgable people like Monitorguru and Ken Layton are around to help out.  Great work guys!

-Ace-