Its there a way to use touchtunes hardware with windows?

[abispac]

yeah, see that looks like it's the "proper" one... so by all rights, it should have what it needs.

unless they re-assigned the pins or something, but i don't think so. unless... i dunno. some are 1 and 2 and on some of the other brands/manufacturers it's like 1 and 14 or something like that. it's supposed to be all universal so you didn't have to swap cables and stuff... but it didn't end up that way sometimes.

Ok lets try again. Can you please help me understand what I'm doing like a 5 year old please? hahaha
Let me explain. Im used to hook push buttons to arcade games. hot to one end of the keyboard encoder and common to all grounds of every push button, and the main ground to the keyboard encoder. Now, in the past, the bill acceptro I used for a juke, I did hooked it in a similar way, except, that because the pulses were to weak for the keyboard encoder to take them as push buttons, I used an arduino 5v relay to achieve a trick. So if I remember correctly and I might be wrong, this is how i did it. As you can see on the image, i connected the acceptor ground to ground on the relay, injected 5v to vcc and the NO on bill acceptor to gpio or signal. So everytime the bill acceptor would send pulses, they would be converted to regular push button signals that the encoder could detect. Hopefully i explained myself with all this.

So i tried the same approach with this bill acceptor, to a no good result. Using a multimeter, i cant see any pulses coming out of the acceptor.
I really don't understand how low and high signals work, but i imagine the bigger the number the better as the encoder or whatever it take the signal would have more time to read the signal, right?
And you mention ""if your system requires the line to go high for a credit issued, you'd wire pin 1 (credit relay common) to your positive rail (5v or whatever...) and pin 2 (Credit relay NO) to the credit line.""
This confuses me a little bit because i was thinking that adding 5v would make the signal act as a push button signal, and in that case that would make the NO cable a ground cable? maybe I'm mixing things up.

So all that being said, do you by any chance have an idea how can i manage to convert the pulse signal to a regular rpush button signal, without any expensive hardware?
Thanks for your help.

[lilshawn]

the acceptor has all the switching ability in it already. you don't need an external relay or anything. you would just attach the credit NO line to your microcontroller... (probably with like a 10k resistor tied to +5v to hold it high) and attach the credit com to ground.

then program your microcontroller to detect the line going from high (it's normal condition) to low and when it does, issue whatever command you see fit. my recommendation would be to set up the microcontroller as an HID keyboard and have it output a keystroke your software can convert to a credit.

[abispac]

So im gonna have to wait till payday in order to buy the 10k resistor and the arduino in order to test the bill acceptor. In the meantime, I'm still trying to break the bios password in order to see if either 1 , the bios can be modified to allow the PC to be turned on and off with the missing power button that i  want to install if I can modify the bios, or 2 update the bios with a compatible bios in order to add those options. I spent hours looking for a motherboard that looks similar and there are many asus that look like it.Its an  LGA1151 motherboard but that's all i got. I'm not a bios expert, I do have a USB bios reader but the pin is broken so I have to buy one so I can read the bios directly and see if I can break the password.  I have erased bios in the past and replace them with clean one, i just need to find the correct bios or compatible bios so i can replace it.

Now, what happened to the days when you could simply remove the battery and erase the password?

Here I see that it has some options to play with the bios, but since I already removed the battery, pressed the erase bios button and the password persists, I imagine it's like a laptop bios that can't really be fully erased.
I don't know, I'm running out of ideas, but if anyone has fresh ideas, let me know so I can put them to work, thanks for your help.
I also cant seem to find the bios chip, the one marked as baox19 seems suspicious , but I cant find anything about it.
Ps I love how simple and easy to use the rockbe software is.

[lilshawn]

the password is "jukeXXXX" the "XXXX" being the year of the release of the jukebox. probably 2017 or 2018. i don't remember precisely. so like the password is juke2017 or juke2018... something like that.

[abispac]

the password is "jukeXXXX" the "XXXX" being the year of the release of the jukebox. probably 2017 or 2018. i don't remember precisely. so like the password is juke2017 or juke2018... something like that.

Yeah, I already tried them all to no good luck. Yesterday I took the PC apart as you can see in the pictures, and soldered cables to the bios unexistent pinouts to see if using pin 2-3 debug mode, would allow me to erase the bios password.
EDIT: since the startup screen shows 1998-2018 I even tried that number, I tried all from juke1998 to juke2024 and also juke1998-2018 , nothing works.

[abispac]

the password is "jukeXXXX" the "XXXX" being the year of the release of the jukebox. probably 2017 or 2018. i don't remember precisely. so like the password is juke2017 or juke2018... something like that.

 

[abispac]

Man what a trip, thanks for all the help I have received, now with access to the bios, I need to find the options that would let me turn off the computer without cutting the electricity. As right now if I choose shutdown, the computer would just restart. Anyway thanks a lot again Lilshawn. Ill keep posting my stuff here.

[mahkeymike]

What about the power-on signal wire on the atx connector? Its usually green wire. Shorting to ground wire ( black ) should trigger power off?

[lilshawn]

What about the power-on signal wire on the atx connector? Its usually green wire. Shorting to ground wire ( black ) should trigger power off?

quite the opposite, grounding the green power on wire will tell the power supply to power on... regardless if the computer is ready or not. but in this case, won't work, due to the fact that this particular motherboard has nothing but a backplane interface... the computer (i think) just runs on 12v from the power supply box through the backplane connector.



i believe the shutdown issue might be with windows. i've run into the scenario where doing a shutdown results in the computer rebooting and it's usually an update the breaks it since windows thinks it has better drivers for the chipset than I do. (pro tip... no you fugging don't Bill.)

Open the Control Panel

At the top of the old Control Panel, search for "power"

Select "Power & Sleep"

scroll down and choose "Additional power settings"

on the left side of the new window, "choose what the power buttons do"

Under 'Shutdown settings' disable 'Turn on fast startup'

If the box is grayed out, you'll need to click the text at the top that says "Change Settings that are currently unavailable"

in fact... turn off all the things. they don't work, and in a world full of SSD storage, and 32 gigs of ram we dont need to sleep and hibernate and crap anymore. It's pointless cause it was all designed to help computers boot up faster... but these days? who cares if my PC takes 50 seconds to boot instead of 20. it doesn't take 10 minutes anymore.

[mahkeymike]

Have you tried shutdown /r from command prompt?

[abispac]

Update on the bill acceptors: Im giving up on them, It seems they don't output any pulses at all, its ok, I'ma buy some new ones.
Usb audio works nice.
Im having issues with HDMI not sending any video to the second screen. Im not sure if I broke something, as when I was testing the PC the first time, I was using the HDMI output and it worked fine previously. Its ok for now, will look into that later.
There are no visible options to change the computer from always on to be able to shut down. But I'm starting to think it has either a secondary bios or hidden bios options as there is no way to erase the bios password. I don't think the computer not being able to shut down has anything to do with windows, since I've already formated the PC again in uefi mode since I changed the bios for that.
Im 100% sure its either a hidden bios option or a an option on the power button.
Perhaps ill use it just as it is working now, and in the future ill replace the PC with a regular mini itx PC. But ill keep digging for future information.
The Bios has me wondering, because like I said before, you cant erase the main pasnsword, yes you can set an administrator password and an user password, but if you want to get into de bios, you still have to use the original password, so it has to have hidden options.
Anyway ill keep posting as I still play with it. I still don't have have powerful enough speakers to test the amps.
Right now I'm using my bedroom sound bar hehehe with the USB to aux dongle.
I really love this software, easy to use, no tag friendly, and being able to play music from the internet, makes not having to update your juke a nice feature. To bad is in Spanish.
Ill post a video later tomorrow.

[lilshawn]

yeah, that whole board was custom made for touchtunes, it only makes sense that they'd have the bios custom made to as well.

i guess a guy could rip the bios out of the chip, load the bios into a hex editor... dig to find the area where the password is hard coded and remove it. unless you could find out who made it and contact the company directly and see about a generic bios for it. i see it's FCC marked, so you might be able to find an FCC number or registration on the board someplace and find the FCC testing file. that document will tell you who made it.

i've had mixed luck with doing that. some companies have no problem giving me an updated generic bios or other information about the boards...... while others cling onto the this is intellectual property of touchtunes thing and refuse to do anything and would rather i talk to them about it.

but yeah, this is why these jukes are so hard to mess with...so much proprietary stuff in some of them.

windows is weird with displays sometimes... it all depends on what the motherboard is treating the primary display as.

you may have to navigate your way to the Device Manager and check for any warning signs next to your graphics drivers. might be something there screwing it up. some kind of monitor or display device should show up there, if it's not, it'll need more looking into.

[abispac]

yeah, that whole board was custom made for touchtunes, it only makes sense that they'd have the bios custom made to as well.

i guess a guy could rip the bios out of the chip, load the bios into a hex editor... dig to find the area where the password is hard coded and remove it. unless you could find out who made it and contact the company directly and see about a generic bios for it. i see it's FCC marked, so you might be able to find an FCC number or registration on the board someplace and find the FCC testing file. that document will tell you who made it.

i've had mixed luck with doing that. some companies have no problem giving me an updated generic bios or other information about the boards...... while others cling onto the this is intellectual property of touchtunes thing and refuse to do anything and would rather i talk to them about it.

but yeah, this is why these jukes are so hard to mess with...so much proprietary stuff in some of them.

windows is weird with displays sometimes... it all depends on what the motherboard is treating the primary display as.

you may have to navigate your way to the Device Manager and check for any warning signs next to your graphics drivers. might be something there screwing it up. some kind of monitor or display device should show up there, if it's not, it'll need more looking into.

Ill just put it to work like it is now and buy a new computer once I get money out of it hehehe, but it was a great learning curve. thanks Lilshawn for all the help.

[abispac]

So the old owner of the angelina, liked the juke so much, he is willing to trade it for virtuo with the base included, I believe the base is the speaker.... Should I do the trade?

Mr LilShawn, can you enlight me on the hardware difference, beside having a credit card reader and a bigger screen....

Thanks for your feedback.

[lilshawn]

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

[abispac]

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

Sounds like I should keep the Angelina then, I really don't have an use for the stand. Im sending the acceptors today to a dealer that would update them to a regular non touchtunes firmware in order for me to use them as 12v pulse type.  Thats all that is left before I put it in a place to work.
The guy wants 600 DLLs for the virtuo wich is a great deal, but I don't have that kind a money right now.
Im hoping for a Christmas miracle on may hehehe

[mahkeymike]

Your not in the US correct?(shame) i would go with the Virtuo, the earlier models have a ps2 keyboard port 

[abispac]

Your not in the US correct?(shame) i would go with the Virtuo, the earlier models have a ps2 keyboard port 

No I'm not in the US, the guy said someone owed him money and payed him with the Angelina and the virtuo, that's why he ain't afraid to post them , he did not steal them. Once I had the videos of the Angelina working with another software, he wanted to trade them. BUt I think I'm stay for the reason Im about to accommodate the Angelina at a bar, and don't want to spend another 2 months trying to get the virtuo working. Maybe if I see that the bar is giving good earnings, ill buy the virtuo as well.

[abispac]

So i didnt had the time to test whether the amps were working correctly or not, today I did that, turns out my pinout was somehow wrong. If you look at the picture, you can see, there are 4 audio outlets and 1 ground, thats left right for amp 1, and left right for amp 2, ground is shared. They work nice and sound great, although I don't like that when I turn the PC on, theres a pop sound on the speaker as the USB audio interface turns on and of several times. Il see if I can find a work around for that.
Im also waiting for  local currency bill acceptor that I bought to see if I can make it fit in there without to much modification on the outside. Also I did send out the acceptors I had to a company that will update them with 2018 pulse firmware, he said and I quote.

The PULSE protocol was only included with our V6 (Vending) models, per Touchtunes' request to support their older legacy jukeboxes. Since 2018, TT no longer supports these older legacy configurations and have since then removed that interface from the V6 firmware. Thus, the V6 now only supports the MDB protocol, as originally anticipated.

We still have archived versions of this firmware available, but it's not advised to use them, as they will lack any newer security and bill pattern updates to block counterfeit bills and allow for better acceptance

To be honest, we don't get many dollar users here, so I'm not worried about people using fake money to play music, so I did go with it, I'm just waiting for them to arrive and test them out.

Once I install the acceptors, and everything gets to be working correctly, then I'ma think to see if I should exchange it for the virtuo with speaker stand or if I should keep it, will see.

[mahkeymike]

What country are you from? I would be interested in the Angelina guts ( mobo, ioboard, ect...ect )

[abispac]

What country are you from? I would be interested in the Angelina guts ( mobo, ioboard, ect...ect )

I got nothing to sell, the juke is working with all of its original hardware minus the IO board, Im even using the led matrix for RGB lights. Lik ei said, I'm using rockbe irocker touch lite, as the software, its simple and works nice, has some nice features as well, plus if you are missing a song or something new comes up, it will pull up the song/video from youtube.  Ill post a nice video of it tomorrow.

[abispac]

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

Sorry to bother you again, I'm still considering to exchange the Angelina for the virtuo, but I'm thinking on keeping the Angelina amps. By any chance, do you think its easy to modify the blue amp to make it work with reguralr sound, I mean without the red box? Or since it comes with a stand speaker, it should have the red box already?  Thanks for your time.

[lilshawn]

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

Sorry to bother you again, I'm still considering to exchange the Angelina for the virtuo, but I'm thinking on keeping the Angelina amps. By any chance, do you think its easy to modify the blue amp to make it work with reguralr sound, I mean without the red box? Or since it comes with a stand speaker, it should have the red box already?  Thanks for your time.

i don't know how the stand is configured exactly... they are made by a 3rd party.

the amps are the exact same amps... they just stuck 2 of the modules in the same box.

with using a red DI box, you don't need to change the amps at all... it's literally how they interconnect.

the "red" DI box has RCA input and and Ethernet cable balanced output. then, the other end of the cat 5 plugs right into the amp. you have to supply 12v to the DI box to power it. you can buy a pre-made power adapter that plugs right in, or just wire on a 12v power brick or other supply to the appropriate places on the board.

the "BLUE" DI boxes convert the balanced audio ethernet back into standard RCA (for instance, connecting from the IO board zones to an external house system)

since you won't be using the IO board, you won't need any blue DI boxes unless you want to convert your computer audio to balanced with a red box...send it long distance over an ethernet cable, then convert it back to RCA to hook up to a house system.

one red DI box can feed audio out to 2 amps when externally powered, which is enough for the amp in the virtuo. (since it's 2 amps in one case) if you need feed a DA415 blue amp as well, you'll need another red DI box for that amp.

the DA415 amp will likely need the caps in the amp serviced. they all do.

[abispac]

Im like 80% inclined to trade it for the virtuo just for the stand, that it should be a speaker to. but I'm not sure if the computer will be powerful enough as the Angelina computer, it shouldn't be a problem,I can always install a better one. Also I really  don't like the blue ampas it looks more complicated to use as the current amps were easy to hack and use, I wonder if the virtuo led will also be easy to hack as the angelinas were, basically just bypass the original led controls and install a cheap Chinese control.i could install a coin acceptor where the cc reader is. And to be honest, I've always wanted a virtuo instead of an Angelina, I love the virtuo design, like a giant mp3 player.

[lilshawn]

honestly, the virtuo is 100x easier to play around with. the computer is a regular ITX motherboard. the power supply is basically a modified ATX power supply (addition of +24vdc to run monitor and bill acceptors) so if you want to swap it out for something different, it's pretty easy.

since it's a regular old computer motherboard, the audio comes out of the same regular old 1/8" headphone jacks on the motherboard back panel as your average desktop... so getting audio out is super easy. the older 300651-001 part number computers are kinda meh performance wise, the 300759-001 were mush better.

the RGB rim lighting is a 3 pin system (not sure which though) you'll have to look more into it. basically power, ground and a data wire. it's RGB...but not individually addressable.

the LED pixel array display on top is basically a HUB73 LED panel with a custom controller that accepts DVI/HDMI and acts as a very large, but low resolution monitor... there where 2 or 3 versions of this panel so you'll have to count out the pixels and create yourself a custom resolution for it...(it'll be like 24x120 ) then just feed it a DVI/HDMI signal and put whatever you want on there as if it is an extended display.

if the LED array has one half that is all messed up, (common issue) replacing an IC chip (74HC245) on that half of the display fixes it. it will probably need the caps changed out on it. most do.

LCD monitor usually needs the caps changed out on the backlight inverter board. 4 screws and it comes right out. don't need to take the panel out or anything.

like anything that is getting old, most stuff needs caps replace in them due to cheap china caps being used in manufacturing. the only devices I've never had an issue with is the power supply (short of lightning strikes/power surges killing them) and the amps (Danish engineering FTW) i've repaired everything else in these machines.

[abispac]

honestly, the virtuo is 100x easier to play around with. the computer is a regular ITX motherboard. the power supply is basically a modified ATX power supply (addition of +24vdc to run monitor and bill acceptors) so if you want to swap it out for something different, it's pretty easy.

since it's a regular old computer motherboard, the audio comes out of the same regular old 1/8" headphone jacks on the motherboard back panel as your average desktop... so getting audio out is super easy. the older 300651-001 part number computers are kinda meh performance wise, the 300759-001 were mush better.

the RGB rim lighting is a 3 pin system (not sure which though) you'll have to look more into it. basically power, ground and a data wire. it's RGB...but not individually addressable.

the LED pixel array display on top is basically a HUB73 LED panel with a custom controller that accepts DVI/HDMI and acts as a very large, but low resolution monitor... there where 2 or 3 versions of this panel so you'll have to count out the pixels and create yourself a custom resolution for it...(it'll be like 24x120 ) then just feed it a DVI/HDMI signal and put whatever you want on there as if it is an extended display.

if the LED array has one half that is all messed up, (common issue) replacing an IC chip (74HC245) on that half of the display fixes it. it will probably need the caps changed out on it. most do.

LCD monitor usually needs the caps changed out on the backlight inverter board. 4 screws and it comes right out. don't need to take the panel out or anything.

like anything that is getting old, most stuff needs caps replace in them due to cheap china caps being used in manufacturing. the only devices I've never had an issue with is the power supply (short of lightning strikes/power surges killing them) and the amps (Danish engineering FTW) i've repaired everything else in these machines.

Do you know if the computer uses an m drive as the Angelina? because using a regular data drive on the Angelina makes things awful slower. I ended up using the original m drive plus an USB 3.0 to m2 drive adapter for the music files.

[lilshawn]

the 651 computer does not, it only has sata.

i'm unsure of the 759.

[abispac]

YEs, i just had my tp70 bill acceptor delivered today, I'm gonna have to make some adjustments to fit there, but it should work, ill post some pictures later on today.

[abispac]

So the to70 acceptor works, but its weird how it works only with the arduino and not with the relay itself, but Lilshawn its correct, using the arduino as hid keyboard encoder will make things easier. Today I got this pictures,  the guy wants 500 for the virtuo jukebox with the stand included. Im gonna buy it to.

[abispac]

the 651 computer does not, it only has sata.

i'm unsure of the 759.

This one is the 759 so it should be the last model tye I guess. Hope I don't get to many blown caps problems.

[abispac]

No super glue or silicon glue needed, YES, so I detached the front bottom part, and took it apart, and without the front cover of the bill acceptor, it has 2 screw holes in the front, all I had to do was, modify the steel part of the juke, as open the hole a bit more, added 2 drywall screws, and it fits just right. feels strong so we can call it a successful mod. Now I have a working 12v pulse tp70 bill acceptor. Now today ill see where do I install the arduino so I can hook the bottom hidden push buttons and the bill acceptors. Stay tuned for more.

[lilshawn]

that virtuo door has been pried open, so it's going to need a bit of work to get the latches lined back up again to get it closing and latching closed proper again.

that monitor in there is an older monitor. if you can get the guy to power it on and see that the monitor working before you hand over cash, that would be best. if the picture looks good, your golden. if it has black spots, i'd avoid it. the panels are an odd size (26") and not really available anymore. a new unit from touchtunes runs about 1100 buckazoids. if it looks good, and you do get it, recap the backlight inverter.

the LED array board has been replaced with a newer revision. it has a 16x72 (i think) resolution. it is less prone to capacitor and decoder IC failure issues, but more prone to pixel issues.

[abispac]

So i couldnt find a danm compatible arduino I could use as a hid keyboard, so I'm gonna go with an old trick. Back in the day like 10 years ago or more, people was crazy to have a jukebox at theirhomes or partys. Man I really made money selling some ugly home made jukeboxes, with sk jukebox first, then with freebox, now those days are over. But I remembered that , to use sk jukebox with use some kind of membrane keyboard to use the software, so I posted the ad lookingfor one of them, and voala, I found one for 25 bucks, kinda expensive for this days, but I don't have to wait for shipping. Anyway, it can be used for the bill accpetors plus adds some buttons to it as well, so I can ad the cancel and volume buttons. Anyway ill post results later on today.

[abispac]

Yes, it works, tomorrow i should get the reprogrammed v6 acceptor and will test them to. If the job was well done, it should work out of the box.

[lilshawn]

meh, you do what you can to make it work sometimes. 

i have a bunch of Minimus AVR boards that i got back in the Kade days... 10 some odd years back, that are already setup to take pin signals going low and turn them into various keyboard key presses. (all configurable) shows up as a USB keyboard to windows. shame they didn't do more... it's was looking like a solid project.

in any case, a program called "atmel flip" will update the bootloader of your arduino so you can upload a keyboard HID file into it, so it just boots directly to HID mode. https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-a-Arduino-HID-Keyboard/

[abispac]

V6 acceptor are back, they are not working, I hate when this happens. They said they updated the firmware but no pulse or 5v are coming out of the credit wires. ktemen.... 

[abispac]

meh, you do what you can to make it work sometimes. 

i have a bunch of Minimus AVR boards that i got back in the Kade days... 10 some odd years back, that are already setup to take pin signals going low and turn them into various keyboard key presses. (all configurable) shows up as a USB keyboard to windows. shame they didn't do more... it's was looking like a solid project.

in any case, a program called "atmel flip" will update the bootloader of your arduino so you can upload a keyboard HID file into it, so it just boots directly to HID mode. https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-a-Arduino-HID-Keyboard/

I got a working acceptor already with the board I posted earlier, the ardionos I get locally, are either atmega 328 or smd something like that,both are not compatible to turn them into hid keyboards.  To bad the original v6 wont work, I really trusted that payway company, but they did not do a good job. I only canhope to get my money back, minus the shipping. I hate when people do that, I mean I'm pretty sure all they did was upload the old firmware and they didn't care about testing them, even though they said they tested them out, its a lie, because once they got to my home, they magically wont work. Freaking liars.  If I get my money back , I'm buying another acceptor.

[abispac]

Turns out both harneses are defective, using some arduino cables, the acceptors work fine.

[lilshawn]

Turns out both harneses are defective, using some arduino cables, the acceptors work fine.

highly related...

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ofKg65lNiB0

[abispac]

Turns out both harneses are defective, using some arduino cables, the acceptors work fine.

highly related...

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ofKg65lNiB0

hahahaha , well the weird part is, with a multimeter the harness looks ok, all colors and terminal match, but my guess is, that the inside pins of the harness, don't make good contact at all with the pins on the acceptor.But why does the acceptor turns on? And I tried multiple ways with different combinations. perhaps the type of copper or metal of that particular harness is not good for pulses? Can that be possible? the pulses not reaching out all the way to the encoder because of the metal type that wire uses that the pulses fade down? I also wonder if that was my problem to start with, and I didn't need to downgrade the firmware. Ill make a few more tests on the virtuo too see if that was the problem.