Donkey Kong Replica: Scratch build using Gaetan's plans - 95% done

[johnrt]

Playing with some artwork. I want two buttons on my CP, so I've modified the layout just a little. Looks ok?


I'm not sure about the button text. Maybe just A and B or perhaps BUTTON A and BUTTON B?

The CPO will be the only custom artwork on this cab. And I may also make an additional original looking CP for this.

[vwalbridge]

That CPO layout looks good.

And "ACTION" for the 2nd button is perfect.

[johnrt]

Man, I have not been looking forward to the making of the speaker panel with the famous grill. But I nailed it tonight. I spent 4 hours on this!

First I found that this old kitchen door (or side) panel is exactly 16mm thick. That is exactly the same as the space between each cut.


From this I cut myself 6 spacers. The plan is to add a spacer after each cut.


Then I spent a lot of time on the "jig". Here's the first and second cut done. Note the spacer.


Next cut, new spacer. Also note the little Lexan guide that is screwed to the jig. This makes is possible to move the router back and forth.


The finished grill, front:


The finished grill, back side:


The finsihed speaker panel:


At last a tip: Don't plunge the router bit through the wood. Route back and forth while increasingly pushing the router downwards. I did a test run on some scrap wood to find the best way to make the cuts.


Edit: I forgot to mention, also add something to prevent the router going more sideways than the width of the slot.

[johnrt]

That CPO layout looks good.

And "ACTION" for the 2nd button is perfect.

And here's the photoshop file if anyone's interested:
http://n9.no/nintendo/photoshop/dk-cpo-4-buttons.zip

[wp34]

That speaker grill process should be stickied somewhere.  Nicely done.   

[ChanceKJ]

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[johnrt]

John, can you please make a quick separate thread in the woodworking form for me? Title it something like "How to Cut a Nintendo Speaker Grill" or something to that effect, and then i'll also link it in my big "Nintendo Cab" sticky.

I'll do that tonight.

[n3wt0n]

The grill looks great! Excellent job. I really appreciate the time you spend documenting your work and the process.   

[johnrt]

So this is the cab as of today:


I'm really happy with the outcome so far. The speaker grill is done and I can breathe again. I made an extra control panel today and also tested the artwork:


Now I'm thinking of making it possible to add some LED's under the CP like chopperthedog did in his refurb:


I haven't glued that panel onto the cab yet, so I can prepare it for some nice LED's, or maybe a LED strip. I don't know. I kind of like the lit coin door.

[johnrt]

Not much going on since I fell asleep after work today. But I have fastened the lower marquee bracket. Since the wood is quite thin at that area I used machine screws.




Now a question for you Nintendo cab owners: What is the size of the visible area of the CP? What is X?

[ChanceKJ]

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[johnrt]

Thanks Chance! I kind of guessed that the "Observable area" was 20cm. If you search the overall depth of the CP you'll find two results. 210mm and 215mm. That being said, my CP needs to go 10mm into the groove since it's 210mm deep. I guess the CPO is centered on the "observable area" also?

[vwalbridge]

Better measurements coming below.

[johnrt]

I's love that vwalbridge if you could provide these measurements.

[vwalbridge]

I's love that vwalbridge if you could provide these measurements.

No problem! I just want to make sure I get you perfect measurements.

[johnrt]

Tonight I've been playing with some tiny LED downlights. I'm not sure about this yet. Maybe a RGB LED strip would make it look better.

These are the LED "downlights" I've tried. I bought 8 of these for about a dollar on a local hardware store some years ago.








In the pics they look bright, but they really are not.

[vwalbridge]

I like those lights on the bottom. They are subtle yet add just enough flair to be interesting.

[vwalbridge]

OK, johnrt, I hope this all makes sense.

I placed a piece of blue tape on the visible edge of the control panel next to the lower bezel mount to represent the visible edge:


Then I pulled out the CP a little and measured the portion of the panel that is tucked under the lower bezel groove: 12mm


Then I placed the ruler across the entire visible area like seen here:


...and zooming into the front edge. The total visible area comes out to: 197mm   (you will notice this measurement does not include the t-molding on purpose)


I also placed the ruler on my reproduction CP (Identical to my original CP by the way) to measure the total height of the control panel:


...and zoomed in the measurement of the entire height of the control panel is almost exactly: 210mm


I also screwed in my crappy CPO and measured the wider top edge. (Distance from the top edge of the CPO to the edge of the CP tucked under the lower bezel): 20.22mm


And here is the meassurement of the opposite side. (Distance from the bottom edge of the CPO to the edge of the CP with t-molding): 15.63mm


And in case you need it here is the distance from the left/right side of the CPO to the edge of the CP: 8.53mm


Hope this helps. Glad to take any other measurements you need.

[johnrt]

Thanks vwalbridge! I really apprecaiate that! 

[johnrt]

In the marquee area I've decided not to glue anything, just in case I have to adjust something up there. I've stapled the small pieces on the side, and screwed the top piece. I don't have 5mm plywood, but a LOT of 4mm, so 4mm it is! I also decided to mount the marquee parallell to the side panel. There's so many variations on this, even on original cabinets, and I think parallell is the way to go.

[kegga]

Chance/Gaetan any plans to edit the Nintendo sticky with all the new measurements and info coming in. Seems to be a difference in the cp measurements.

[johnrt]

Tonight I've been gluing the parts together. It's been like point of no return. Now it's a couple of days (at least) with more filling and sanding.

[BGoulette]

Looking good! But is your camera teabagging us?!

[ChanceKJ]

.

[johnrt]

Yeah haha! That looks frightening similar to those rubber testicals you can get for your pickup truck out here. Haha. Related to my other thread at all John? 

Well, I'm a modern man(!). And I was just trying this new selfie trend on social media these days called "nutscaping" (google it). At least it's become very popular in this country. And since it's "movember" (google that too) and everything this should be appropriate.

But seeing the pictures make me wondering if I've aquired gangrene on my balls.

[johnrt]

I've been sanding, filling, painting, sanding, filling, painting... well, you see where this is going... It's getting there. The paint job is the best I've done yet. And tonight I got a TV for free. A 20" Samsung. As far as I know, this can easily be connected to JAMMA via the SCART (http://www.gameland.gr/geoanas/realarcade.htm).

The black paint I've been using on this build is very matte, and it looks fantastic. It looks so good I'm considering repainting all my other arcades.

Well, here's the pics:

The TV, a 20" Samsung.


Testing it with an old Xbox (with an Xecuter2 mod chip)






The inside of the speaker grill needs a little touch-up with black paint. No big deal.

[opt2not]

Hmmm, that blue looks a bit too gray'ish. Was that intentional, or are you trying to go for DK's blue?  If it's that latter then I think it needs to be a brighter, more saturated blue.  Unless it's the lighting?

[SlammedNiss]

Well, I'm a modern man(!). And I was just trying this new selfie trend on social media these days called "nutscaping" (google it). At least it's become very popular in this country. And since it's "movember" (google that too) and everything this should be appropriate.

But seeing the pictures make me wondering if I've aquired gangrene on my balls.

The things you (don't ever want to) learn or see on the internet.

[johnrt]

Hmmm, that blue looks a bit too gray'ish. Was that intentional, or are you trying to go for DK's blue?  If it's that latter then I think it needs to be a brighter, more saturated blue.  Unless it's the lighting?

It's the lighting. It's impossible to get a decent picture in that room. It's all lit up with LED bulbs. I'll try with some different lighting tonight.

[johnrt]

Not much of an update, but some parts arrived today. The speaker, a really low profile one from Visaton and a power intake with a condom.

[ChanceKJ]

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[johnrt]

I've been playing with connecting my JAMMA boards to the TV via scart. Using my "Tully" I bypassed the arcade monitor, and soldered a connector to a SCART plug. This worked! And by connecting pin 8 and 16 of the SCART to +5V the TV automatically selects the SCART input when turned on. And another great feature of this TV: IT REMEMBERS ITS LAST STATE! That means it automatically powers on and selects the correct input when supplied with 220V! That was fantastic news. No need for the remote control, and no need for any remote control hacking!

[johnrt]

Today I found this network device in the trash at work. This had these nice ventilation holes in its chassis.


From this I made the protective grill for the speaker. It's dark blue, but I don't care. Inside the grill it looks black nevertheless.


This network device also had these rack mount angles on its side. I'll save these for maybe a CP Strike Set for a future build.


I also mounted the CP latches today:




Things are progressing fine. I'm waiting for the paint to harden so I can mask and paint what's missing.

[Frank Drebin]

Tonight I've been playing with some tiny LED downlights. I'm not sure about this yet. Maybe a RGB LED strip would make it look better.

These are the LED "downlights" I've tried. I bought 8 of these for about a dollar on a local hardware store some years ago.

Is there a name for this style of mini light?  I would love to use these on my build as well, maybe in an RGB (forgive the MAME cab bling)

BTW very impressive craftsmanship. 

[scoodidabop]

Excellent speaker hole routing.  Premium nut scaping too.  Nicely done. Those downlights are sick too.

Not to derail but have you Nintendo cab guys considered a Sky Skipper dedicated?  There's that UK fellow selling an original board.

[johnrt]

Is there a name for this style of mini light?  I would love to use these on my build as well, maybe in an RGB (forgive the MAME cab bling)

These are the ones I use:


I think I found some on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281850513244

BTW: You can search for "LED Deck Light".

[johnrt]

Excellent speaker hole routing.  Premium nut scaping too.  Nicely done. Those downlights are sick too.

Not to derail but have you Nintendo cab guys considered a Sky Skipper dedicated?  There's that UK fellow selling an original board.

I didn't know about Sky Skipper until a couple of days ago.

[ChanceKJ]

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[Frank Drebin]

Is there a name for this style of mini light?  I would love to use these on my build as well, maybe in an RGB (forgive the MAME cab bling)

These are the ones I use:
[img]http://n9.no/nintendo/pics/2015-11-17%2021.01.50.jpg[/mg]

I think I found some on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281850513244

BTW: You can search for "LED Deck Light".

Thanks!

[johnrt]

A quick question: What's the distance from the CPO to the bottom of the joystick balltop?