Total Carnage! I love it!

[wp34]

I've been looking for a Smash TV cabinet for many years with no luck.  My buddy and I used to play it over our lunch break back in the early 90's and it has always been one of my favorite arcade games.  I was planning to build a Mame cabinet similar to Malenko's Open Ice project that would allow me to play Smash TV and Total Carnage and my son to play NFL Blitz. 

Then this cabinet showed up on Craigslist Thursday and it was only 5 minutes from my work.    I noticed after trying it out for a few minutes that it was a lot more fun playing Total Carnage on a dedicated cabinet than on my Mame setup.  There was one at our local auction two years ago (probably this exact one) and I lost out on the bidding.  I decided to buy and it create a combo Smash TV/Total Carnage setup similar to Delusional's.

Tasks -

1. Clean, clean, clean
2. Fix the sound
3. Replace the t-molding
4. Refurbish the front base
5. Repaint some of the black areas that are dinged up
6. Repaint the black metal parts that are rusted
7. Either replace the joysticks or just the handles
8. Fix the marquee light
9. Install Jamma switcher
10. Find and install Smash TV PCB
11. Replace both speakers
12. Install Any Coin mechs

[wp34]

The front of the base is pretty rough and that lock bar has to go.

[opt2not]

I'd buy that for a dollar!

[wp34]

I'd buy that for a dollar!

Ha ha! 

[wp34]

I replaced the leg levelors with casters that screwed right into the same posts.



 The bottom cleaned up pretty well.


It came with manuals that look like they have never been opened.  For some reason this was really, really cool to me.

[Slippyblade]

You gonna do a restore on it or just clean up and play?

[yotsuya]

Be careful with those wheels, they look like the ones I put on my NBA Jam. They're rated at 80lbs... They didn't hold up at ZapCon. They got bent like a Mofo moving the game around.

[Malenko]

Honored to be an inspiration!  I'd rather have a dedicated smash/carnage over playing it on MAME

I'd rather have the leg levelers, keeps the cab in place on flat ground and you just tip it back to move it.  Be thankful you didnt have to strip black paint off the sides!

[wp34]

I'd rather have the leg levelers, keeps the cab in place on flat ground and you just tip it back to move it. 

Be careful with those wheels, they look like the ones I put on my NBA Jam. They're rated at 80lbs... They didn't hold up at ZapCon. They got bent like a Mofo moving the game around.

These are rated at 80lbs so they are probably the same ones.  The casters don't look beefy enough but I'm hoping they handle the occasional movement on carpet in my basement.  If not I can put leg levelers back on.  My son's Madden game is really tough to get out from against the wall which is why I'm trying these.

[wp34]

Honored to be an inspiration!  I'd rather have a dedicated smash/carnage over playing it on MAME

I like how your CP is 4-player but the joysticks are level with each other.  It is very well done.

[wp34]

You gonna do a restore on it or just clean up and play?

A little of both.  It needs a lot of cleaning as well as some "restore".  I'm pretty picky on games I'm keeping and like them to look new if possible.  It is funny because my wife likes the little dings on the cabinets that show the history.

Here is the pick list -
1. Clean, clean, clean
2. Fix the sound
3. Replace the t-molding
4. Refurbish the front base
5. Repaint some of the black areas that are dinged up
6. Repaint the black metal parts that are rusted
7. Either replace the joysticks or just the handles
8. Fix the marquee light
9. Install Jamma switcher
10. Find and install Smash TV PCB
11. Replace both speakers

[Malenko]

9. Install Jamma switcher
10. Find and install Smash TV PCB

 

Shame Karate Champ has a one-off pinout and a vertical monitor

[wp34]

9. Install Jamma switcher
10. Find and install Smash TV PCB

 

Shame Karate Champ has a one-off pinout and a vertical monitor

Yeah it is a shame.  I'd love to include that board as well. 

[wp34]

Both speakers are blown but that doesn't appear to be the sound problem. I connected a speaker I had laying around but no dice. 

I'll add replacing those to the to-do list.

[spoot]

LOL, yeah, those speaks are toast.

[yotsuya]

6" car stereo speakers are a great drop-in replacement, and you don't have to use their ugly-ass grilles. I used a brand new one on Polybius, it was hidden behind the stock grille, and you couldn't tell the physical difference, but you sure could tell the audible difference.

[wp34]

6" car stereo speakers are a great drop-in replacement, and you don't have to use their ugly-ass grilles. I used a brand new one on Polybius, it was hidden behind the stock grille, and you couldn't tell the physical difference, but you sure could tell the audible difference.

Good to know.  Finding arcade 6" and 4" 4ohm replacements is proving to be difficult.  I may just go that route.   

[wp34]

The side-art is pretty decent but I'm a little concerned about pealing around the back and bottom of the cabinet.  Any suggestions how to protect/preserve this?  I thought about getting some black or clear "corner protector" strips to cover the edges.  I'm open to other ideas.

[wp34]

We tried some Modge Podge on the side art tonight in one small spot.  The artwork flakes so bad that it was breaking as I was trying to apply the glue.  Also I was hoping the Modge Podge would hold the side art down flat but I'll need to clamp it to get it to dry flat.  I may try glue next.

[Malenko]

when that happened on the TMNT cab I have, I just broke the art off cleanly, then bondo-ed the missing part. Since your cab bottom is all black, it should be easy to blend the repair into the existing art.

broke the lifted pieces off:


bondo:



takes a lot fo time and skill, if you arent comfy with it, I think woodglue and clamps is your best bet.

[wp34]

I like what you did with that TMNT but the bottom and bottom-back of mine is blue to the edge.  I'm not sure I can blend it all that well.  Something to think about though.

[wp34]

6" car stereo speakers are a great drop-in replacement, and you don't have to use their ugly-ass grilles. I used a brand new one on Polybius, it was hidden behind the stock grille, and you couldn't tell the physical difference, but you sure could tell the audible difference.

I'm having trouble finding an inexpensive 6" speaker.  6.5" are plentiful.  I may go with a 5.25" and make an adapter.

The cabinet has a 6" woofer and a 4" "tweeter" with what appears to be a cross-over between them.  I'm assuming that if I get a full-range 6" car speaker to replace the woofer and can leave the 4" spot empty. 

[yotsuya]

Let me see what I ordered and send you a link.

[wp34]

Let me see what I ordered and send you a link.

Thanks!

[wp34]

This cabinet has a neat feature I haven't seen before.  There is a door on the right-front side that is removable.  It allows you to pull the PCB out through the front.


Here are some more shots of the front of the cabinet.









Metal bezel clip that needs repainted.

[Malenko]

This cabinet has a neat feature I haven't seen before.  There is a door on the right-front side that is removable.  It allows you to pull the PCB out through the front.

Yeah, its an awesome feature, dedicated MK1s are like that too. You plan on filling those bolt holes?

[yotsuya]

Berzerk does that too. That is a nice feature.

[wp34]

This cabinet has a neat feature I haven't seen before.  There is a door on the right-front side that is removable.  It allows you to pull the PCB out through the front.

Yeah, its an awesome feature, dedicated MK1s are like that too. You plan on filling those bolt holes?

Is this basically the same cabinet as MK1?  As I'm researching parts I'm running across MK references quite a bit.  Even the joysticks seem the same.

Yep I am planning on filling the bolt holes and picked up some plugs at Menards last night.   There is enough laminate left over from my Tron project to cover the front.  I'm just not sure how well the corners will look with that three-sided front. 

[Malenko]

plugs? Just get some bondo and get to work!


I believe the TC cab was the basis of the MK1 cab, theres been a few midway cabs with the angled front (including a black and blue generic cab). But after MKII everything was squared on the front

[wp34]

plugs? Just get some bondo and get to work!

Ha ha!  There will be bondo.  No doubts there.

[wp34]

Looks like I have a cap kit in my near future.  It will be my first one.

[Malenko]

why? I dont see any bulged or leaking caps, just one with glue on it.

[wp34]

why? I dont see any bulged or leaking caps, just one with glue on it.

I assumed that cap was leaking. Good news because I really didn't want to cap it.   I'm having trouble with the horizontal size but otherwise the monitor seems pretty good.

[Malenko]

so replace the horizontal width coil or resistor and you should be golden.  If you can solder theres no harm in recapping, I just prefer not to unless I have to.

[wp34]

so replace the horizontal width coil or resistor and you should be golden.  If you can solder theres no harm in recapping, I just prefer not to unless I have to.

Thanks Malenko.  I'll recap this one at some point but I'd like to avoid it in the short term just so I can get it in my basement.  Too many projects in the garage.

[wp34]

The front is going to get painted instead of laminated.  I'm pretty good with a router but am not sure I can flush-trim route the PCB door since it is so close to the edge and there are a lot of angles to mess with.



It was pretty obvious from the black overspray on the t-molding that she has been repainted once before.


My bondo ended up being a little old and the first coat went on rough.   I went and bought a new can for the 2nd coat and it was much easier to work with.



Two coats of hammered black paint on the metal glass retainers.  I used that paint on my Asteroids Deluxe coin door and it goes on a little gray.  I'm going to going over it with semi-gloss black for a final coat.

[Slippyblade]

I remember when I first signed up on the forums and read somebody recommending Bondo - I thought they were nuts.  Then I used it, soooo cool. 

[wp34]

I remember when I first signed up on the forums and read somebody recommending Bondo - I thought they were nuts.  Then I used it, soooo cool. 

I had the exact same reaction.   

[Malenko]

tape a trash bag to the inside.  looks like you have everything patched up really well!

[wp34]

tape a trash bag to the inside.  looks like you have everything patched up really well!

Thanks! 

I had trouble getting tape to stick so I ended up wrapping the PCB in a sheet and the monitor in a trash bag.  I forgot how much dust you get with bondo though.  It is as bad as routing MDF.

[wp34]

First coat of (Q*Bert) primer on.  Painting is why God invented Formica.   

[Malenko]

rock solid! 

[wp34]

rock solid! 

Thanks man. 

[wp34]

So my painting adventure last weekend didn't go so well.  The primer looked pretty good but it was really humid when I painted the black and I had all kinds of issues.  I let it sit for a week and then last night sanded most of it off.



Went to Menards this afternoon and walked past the cabinet three times before I noticed it had magically been painted while I was gone.  Turns out my wife (who is a much better painter than me) put a coat on while I was out.  Talk about a nice surprise!



I order a box of goodies from Holland Computing on Tuesday and they arrived today.



This will allow me to replace the t-molding and buttons.  I also bought their 2-1 Jamma switcher along with the associated harness. 

I was able to pick-up a Smash TV PCB on KLOV and am anxious to try it out with the switcher.

[Slippyblade]

Wait...  Your wife HELPED with an arcade build.  She's a keeper dude.  Good job!

[yotsuya]

Wait...  Your wife HELPED with an arcade build.  She's a keeper dude.  Good job!

Ditto. Most of us get the stink eye when working on arcade stuff otherwise.

[wp34]

She is definitely a keeper.  I don't want you to get the impression I have carte blanche to install a row of Stern pinball machines but she does generally support my hobby.  We go to the local barcade at about once a month and she likes playing the games.

[wp34]

Two coats later and I'm real happy with the final product.  The only downside is the front looks so good it really makes the sides look bad.  Oh well.  I'm moving on anyway for now.



I installed a new volume pot but that didn't fix my sound problem.  Time to pull the sound card and inspect it as if I know what I am doing.   

[yotsuya]

Looking good!

What's the sound issue specifially?

[wp34]

Looking good!

What's the sound issue specifially?

Thanks Yots!

No sound at all. There is a little hum if I turn up the volume now (after installing the new POT) but other than that nothing.

[yotsuya]

Looking good!

What's the sound issue specifially?

Thanks Yots!

No sound at all. There is a little hum if I turn up the volume now (after installing the new POT) but other than that nothing.

It uses a separate sound PCB?

[wp34]

Yeah a separate sound PCB.  Smash TV is the same way. 

[yotsuya]

Yeah, my NBA Jam uses a separate sound PCB. Can you go in the test settings and see if it's being detected? I can do that with Jam.

[wp34]

Yeah, my NBA Jam uses a separate sound PCB. Can you go in the test settings and see if it's being detected? I can do that with Jam.

Interesting.  I don't recall that on the Test menu but will look tomorrow.

[yotsuya]

Yeah, my NBA Jam uses a separate sound PCB. Can you go in the test settings and see if it's being detected? I can do that with Jam.

Interesting.  I don't recall that on the Test menu but will look tomorrow.

Hit the test/diagnostic switch, go to Diagnostic Tests->Sound Board Test and see if the board is detected. Hope that helps.

[Malenko]

check the -5V too

[wp34]

Yeah, my NBA Jam uses a separate sound PCB. Can you go in the test settings and see if it's being detected? I can do that with Jam.

Interesting.  I don't recall that on the Test menu but will look tomorrow.

Hit the test/diagnostic switch, go to Diagnostic Tests->Sound Board Test and see if the board is detected. Hope that helps.

The sound board test goes through several iterations of (I think) trying to play specific game sounds but I never hear anything nor see an error.

Interestingly I unplugged the ribbon cable to the sound board and tried the test again.  No error.  That seems odd.

Also I tried another Jamma board in the cabinet and get sound.  So at least the wiring to the speaker and the speaker are fine.

[wp34]

check the -5V too

The manual shows 5v and two 12v to the sound board and all check out.  The -5v checks out coming from the power supply.

[wp34]

On a lark I tried my JROK Multi-Williams board in it.  Robotron plays perfectly.  With Joust you have to hit the left "fire" joystick to flap unfortunately.  I was hoping the "Bomb" button would work but that is mapped to Player 1 start.  I'm real tempted to make this a three-way Jamma rig to play Robotron, Smash TV and Total Carnage.

I tried my Smash TV board in it tonight as well.  The sound works but there is an odd issue with firing.  While all the buttons and joysticks check out in the diagnostics when playing the game I can't fire with either player. 

[wp34]

I swapped the ribbon cable from Smash TV into Total Carnage and my sound is back!  Really, really pumped about that.

[yotsuya]

Sweet! I think Bob Roberts sells replacement sound ribbon cables.

[wp34]

Sweet! I think Bob Roberts sells replacement sound ribbon cables.

Thanks.  I hadn't thought to check him believe it or not.   

[wp34]

Well one step forward and three back.  Since I thought I had the sound problem licked I decided to install the Jamma 2-1 switcher. 


When I turned it on some smoke came out of the Jamma switcher and I quickly turned it off.

Bypassing the switcher I plugged the Total Carnage board directly into the Jamma harness.  Now the sound is gone again.

Also it will play for a few minutes and then the video starts to go staticy and then goes away completely.   

[MK3FAN]

You bought the wrong switcher...

https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=DBLJAMMA

[wp34]

You bought the wrong switcher...

https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=DBLJAMMA

I'm starting to think that.  Going with the cheaper faster method may have been a mistake.

Do you own that one or are you being Internet-ornery?

[yotsuya]

MK3FAN recommended that one for me, too. I plan to buy it once I get the Open Ice board working 100%. I trust him.

[wp34]

When I was researching them I couldn't find any recent threads in Mike's switcher. I'll probably go that route now. I'm worried my Total Carnage is dead. Can't get anything out of it tonight. At least I didn't plug my Smash TV pcb into that cheap switcher.

[wp34]

Yeah I think my TC is dead Jim.  I plugged a 60-1 in and let it run for a while tonight with no issues (other than the sound on DK  ).  The TC will play for a few minutes before the video gets garbled and then it freezes. It won't even boot every time for that matter.

Just for posterity the model switcher I bought was GBS-8118.  There is no manual included or existing apparently. 

[yotsuya]

Yeah I think my TC is dead Jim.  I plugged a 60-1 in and let it run for a while tonight with no issues (other than the sound on DK  ).  The TC will play for a few minutes before the video gets garbled and then it freezes. It won't even boot every time for that matter.

Just for posterity the model switcher I bought was GBS-8118.  There is no manual included or existing apparently.

Damn. Are any chips getting super hot when it freezes?

[wp34]

You bought the wrong switcher...

https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=DBLJAMMA

If you own Mike's switcher I am interested in your opinion.  I'd like to pick one up at some point down the road.  I think this cabinet is going to play just Smash TV for the time being though.

[wp34]

Yeah I think my TC is dead Jim.  I plugged a 60-1 in and let it run for a while tonight with no issues (other than the sound on DK  ).  The TC will play for a few minutes before the video gets garbled and then it freezes. It won't even boot every time for that matter.

Just for posterity the model switcher I bought was GBS-8118.  There is no manual included or existing apparently.

Damn. Are any chips getting super hot when it freezes?

Dunno.  I didn't check for that.  I'll try that tomorrow night.

It is funny that I was so on top of the world yesterday when I had the sound working.  Things can sure change quickly in this hobby.

[wp34]

I bought the switcher and a few other items from Holland Computers.  They have been very responsive to my questions via email.  It turns out they have had issues with this switcher and Midway boards.  They are going to give me a refund for the switcher and the cables I bought with it.  I'm very impressed with their customer service.

[Malenko]

I bought the switcher and a few other items from Holland Computers.  They have been very responsive to my questions via email.  It turns out they have had issues with this switcher and Midway boards.  They are going to give me a refund for the switcher and the cables I bought with it.  I'm very impressed with their customer service.

They gonna replace the board it killed?

[wp34]

I bought the switcher and a few other items from Holland Computers.  They have been very responsive to my questions via email.  It turns out they have had issues with this switcher and Midway boards.  They are going to give me a refund for the switcher and the cables I bought with it.  I'm very impressed with their customer service.

They gonna replace the board it killed?

Nope.  All things considered I'm okay with that at this point.  I was rolling the dice buying that cheapo switcher.

[MK3FAN]

If you own Mike's switcher I am interested in your opinion.

Yup. I actually am using 2 of them right now and I have a spare in the spare parts closet. They work GREAT and the games can be switched via holding either the P1 or P2 Start button and then pressing the other. Or you can wire up a switch to manually switch the games. That's what I did in my TMNT/TIT 2-in-1. They are more expensive, but they are WELL worth the extra cash. It would not have crapped out on you like the cheaper one you bought.

[yotsuya]

If you own Mike's switcher I am interested in your opinion.

Yup. I actually am using 2 of them right now and I have a spare in the spare parts closet. They work GREAT and the games can be switched via holding either P1 or P2 Start buttons and then pressing the other. Or you can wire up a switch to manually switch the games. That's what I did in my TMNT/TIT 2-in-1. They are more expensive, but they are WELL worth the extra cash. It would not have crapped out on you like the cheaper one you bought.

Which do you prefer, the switch or p1/p2? I'm going to buy one on your recommendation. 

[wp34]

Thanks for the feedback.  I appreciate it.   

I'm going to order one at some point.  Live and learn.

I like the idea of being able to wire up a switch.  Both my games use P1&P2 together to exit some menus.  I have to think that would confuse the switcher.

If you own Mike's switcher I am interested in your opinion.

Yup. I actually am using 2 of them right now and I have a spare in the spare parts closet. They work GREAT and the games can be switched via holding either the P1 or P2 Start button and then pressing the other. Or you can wire up a switch to manually switch the games. That's what I did in my TMNT/TIT 2-in-1. They are more expensive, but they are WELL worth the extra cash. It would not have crapped out on you like the cheaper one you bought.

[wp34]

Tonight I worked on adjusting the horizontal size.   I didn't have a TV adjustment tool set and it came in the mail today.  Because there wasn't enough clearance underneath the monitor I ended up cutting the tool down to size so it would fit.  Glad those kits are cheap.

I'm not sure why they designed that chassis so that the horizontal size adjustment is so far underneath the tube.  After shocking myself two or three times    trying to adjust it with the monitor on I decided to turn the monitor off first.  It took several tries but I think I have it.

[MK3FAN]

Which do you prefer, the switch or p1/p2? I'm going to buy one on your recommendation. 

Cool! I prefer the actual wired switch because if I'm playing a fighting game and both players press the Start buttons at the same time (happens more than you'd think), the game switches and I have to switch it back.

[yotsuya]

Which do you prefer, the switch or p1/p2? I'm going to buy one on your recommendation. 

Cool! I prefer the actual wired switch because if I'm playing a fighting game and both players press the Start buttons at the same time (happens more than you'd think), the game switches and I have to switch it back.

Nice. Where do you put the switch? I was thinking of putting it behind the coin door. I didn't necessarily want it easily switched.

[MK3FAN]

Nice. Where do you put the switch? I was thinking of putting it behind the coin door. I didn't necessarily want it easily switched.

I put the switch under the control panel where it's hidden and won't get accidentally pressed...

[wp34]

That's a nice looking cabinet.  The split t-molding is sweet. 

Nice. Where do you put the switch? I was thinking of putting it behind the coin door. I didn't necessarily want it easily switched.

I put the switch under the control panel where it's hidden and won't get accidentally pressed...

[MK3FAN]

That's a nice looking cabinet.  The split t-molding is sweet. 

Thanks. The green side is all TMNT art. The purple side is all TIT art...

[wp34]

Nice!  I thought about making a duel marquee for mine.  Going all-out with the side-art is pretty impressive.

That's a nice looking cabinet.  The split t-molding is sweet. 

Thanks. The green side is all TMNT art. The purple side is all TIT art...

[yotsuya]

Nice!  I thought about making a duel marquee for mine.  Going all-out with the side-art is pretty impressive.

I like what MK3FAN did with this cab. I've decided mine is going to stay NBA Jam (even though I have a feeling eventually it's going to have NBA Maximum Hangtime and NHL Open Ice in it when all is said and done).

[wp34]

A couple of interesting developments tonight.  I cleaned the edge connector on the PCB as well as the pins going to/from the sound card.  Now the Total Carnage PCB is playing 100% with sound.   

Also I was Binging for some images of Total Carnage (to help me put her back together  ) and ran across this.



I'm 99.568% sure this is my cabinet from a Des Moines auction from two years ago.

http://coinop411.web44.net/auc.php?evnt=212&page=3&qty=50&sort=Name

I bid on the cabinet until it was too rich for my blood but had always regretted not buying it.   Somehow this makes having this particular cabinet even more fun.

[wp34]

Before I picked up this cabinet I was planning a 4-player MAME cabinet with a control panel similar to Malenko's Open Ice.  The goal was to let my son play NFL Blitz/NBA Jam and me play Smash TV/Total Carnage.  For that project I had stock-piled 4 8-way Wico leaf sticks.  Total Carnage uses microswitch joysticks and to be honest I like the feel of them.  Even when I had the JROK card plugged in I liked the feel of these joysticks playing Robotron.

So now I'm thinking about scrapping the Wico plan as sacrilegious as that may sound.  I would like to swap out the handles for new shiny ones though.

Does this look like a Happ Competition handle?

[Vigo]

I'm 99.568% sure this is my cabinet from a Des Moines auction from two years ago.

I bid on the cabinet until it was too rich for my blood but had always regretted not buying it.   Somehow this makes having this particular cabinet even more fun.

  I love that. Makes me feel better about the After Burner I passed up.

[wp34]

I'm 99.568% sure this is my cabinet from a Des Moines auction from two years ago.

I bid on the cabinet until it was too rich for my blood but had always regretted not buying it.   Somehow this makes having this particular cabinet even more fun.

  I love that. Makes me feel better about the After Burner I passed up.

After Burner is another one I'd like to have.   

[yotsuya]

After Burner is another one I'd like to have.   

Me too!

And what, no "I cleaned my edge connector and now everything works!!!1!" announcement in the Summer of Chuff thread?

[wp34]

After Burner is another one I'd like to have.   

Me too!

And what, no "I cleaned my edge connector and now everything works!!!1!" announcement in the Summer of Chuff thread?

Good point!

[wp34]

I might have jumped the gun a little on the PCB.  The board will play fine for 15-20 minutes and then I lose video.  I'm starting to think this game had issues (beyond the sound) when I bought it. 

[Slippyblade]

That sounds like a heat issue.  You got a laser thermometer?  Start probing around on chips and see if anything is overheating.

[wp34]

That sounds like a heat issue.  You got a laser thermometer?  Start probing around on chips and see if anything is overheating.

Yotsuya had suggested that might be the problem earlier.  I do not have a laser thermometer.  Assuming I get one what is the cause/remedy for that issue?

[wp34]

Would something like this work?

http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-Temperature-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435449203&sr=8-1&keywords=laser+thermometer

[Slippyblade]

Yeah, that would work.  I wouldn't pay that much though.  You can get in the $10 dollar range if you dig around. Harbor Freight, etc.  But you basically just run the machine and start shooting components and noting the temps.  Temps will go up over time and level off - normally.  The bad component will keep rising till the machine goes bonkers.  Once you "think" you know where the fault it - get a can of air duster and blast the component - that will drop the temp of the component, if stuff returns to normal, that's the bad part.

Careful about cooling the part to quickly though - you don't want to thermal shock stuff and watch it explode.

[wp34]

Awesome. Thank you very much SlippyBlade!

[yotsuya]

You have a built-in thermal thermometer in your fingertips.

[wp34]

You have a built-in thermal thermometer in your fingertips.

Ha ha!  What's the fun in that. I want a new tool.

[Slippyblade]

You have a built-in thermal thermometer in your fingertips.

A thermal thermometer?  Is that like a velocity speedometer?  or an altitude altimeter?  :p

[yotsuya]

You have a built-in thermal thermometer in your fingertips.

A thermal thermometer?  Is that like a velocity speedometer?  or an altitude altimeter? 

Hush, you! Or I'm going to double the price of that cocktail!

[Slippyblade]

Hush, you! Or I'm going to double the price of that cocktail!

It'd still be a decent price, but I'm shutting up now.

[yotsuya]

Haha!  Actually, do you still want it? Now that I have the Ms Pac-Man, I don't need it anymore. Let me know.

[wp34]

Get a room you two!  We are trying to preserve arcade history here.   

[wp34]

Cosmetics are almost done.  When putting it back together I realized I forgot to paint what I thought was the back side of this bracket.  Turns out it is the front-side.  I'll be painting that tonight.   


It turns out 6-1/2 speakers will fit these cabinets just fine.  On Friday night I accidentally shoved a screwdriver through the woofer of my $8 Amazon speaker.  A Saturday morning run to Walmart fixed that problem.  I haven't shopped for car stereo equipment in years and found it odd how few stores there are nowadays. Seems like back in the day you could go anywhere and pick up some speakers.


The blue of the tweeter/midrange was showing through to the Total Carnage logo so I used some speaker grill felt to hide it.  I also use the felt to hide the hole where the 4" "tweeter" was originally.



This made me laugh while I was working.  How many of you end up putting tools on another cabinet while you are working?



Here are some shots of the finished cabinet.











I'm real happy with it so far.  Magic Eraser really is magic.  I used it on the side-art and CPO.  It really made the colors on the CPO pop.  There was also a lot of paint overspray (from the previous owner) on the CPO and front of the CP.  Magic Eraser took it right off. 

The only issues I have left cosmetically are minor will have to wait until I have less projects in the que.  The side-art pealing looks much worse with the rest of the cabinet done.  I may need to take Malenko's suggestion at some point and clean up the edges.  The glass bezel also has some scratches in it and I may possibly replace it at some point.

My next steps are to get the PCB situation squared around and install some Any Coin mechs so this bad boy can take some tokens!

[wp34]

My Any Coin's came in today and I got them installed.  To add to that I bought a new coin box from Twisted Quarter.  Being able to drop tokens into my own game is priceless.

More information on the Any Coins can be found here.  I highly recommend them.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,144539.0.html



The good news is that Twisted Quarter has replacement handles for $4 each.  The bad news is they didn't fit.




I may just clean up the ones I have for now.

[yotsuya]

I put blue ones in my Ms. Pac. Any Coin Mechs are awesome.

My Any Coin's came in today and I got them installed.  To add to that I bought a new coin box from Twisted Quarter.  Being able to drop tokens into my own game is priceless.

More information on the Any Coins can be found here.  I highly recommend them.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,144539.0.html



The good news is that Twisted Quarter has replacement handles for $4 each.  The bad news is they didn't fit.




I may just clean up the ones I have for now.