Fence adjustment?

[Homietheclown]

Gentlemen,

As always I turn to you guys. It's warm enough so I finally decided to make a few cuts. Using a jigsaw I cut out one side of my cabinet (full size sf-like). I made sure to use the guide on the jigsaw that allowed me to cut 1/4" outside of the pattern I drew. It turned out ok except for one corner that broke off because of the weight of the MDF that was still attached...

Anyway I am trying to use a fence (no router table) to route out the rest and make straight lines with the lines that I drew. Problem is I don't know where to set the fence. How far away from the drawn line do I set the fence?  Keep in mind my jigsaw work isn't perfect. Not all of it is 1/4 from the penciled line.

So just to reinterate (if it didn't make sense the first time) where do I clamp down my fence so when I run my router along it, my lines are perfectly straight match the line I drew. 
My guess is I have to make multiple passes and inch my way in every time but I wanted to hear from the experts.

 

[bfauska]

You should be able to measure from the edge of the router base plate to the cutting edge of the bit to find the distance you are looking for.

[Slippyblade]

There is no single answer to your question.  It totally depends on your exact router. Different routers will have different base plates and even the same model may have casting/molding differences.  Best advise is this, and it sucks...

Use some scrap wood and rule a straight line.  Eyeball it and clamp your fence then measure and record.  Route the scrap.  If it cuts to the line, use that measurement.  If not, adjust and repeat.

[Homietheclown]

Thanks guys.

I looked at the instructions briefly and couldn't find the info. I figured there should be some info about it in there. Its a Dewalt 618 if that means anything. I understand what you guys are saying and will have to start there.

Still being able to finally starting making this thing is awesome. I hope you guys never bored of playing with your 'cades.

[Slippyblade]

Bored?  Never!  Play does lessen a bit over time though.  But I've had a working machine for about 3 years now and it still gets played at least once a week...  My DVD player doesn't get used that much. 

[bfauska]

Another option somewhere between slippyblade and my earlier suggestions would be to clamp a straight edge to a board route and then measure the distance between the clamped piece and the newly cut edge, that's your number you need.

[Slippyblade]

Another option somewhere between slippyblade and my earlier suggestions would be to clamp a straight edge to a board route and then measure the distance between the clamped piece and the newly cut edge, that's your number you need.

Doh!  That makes WAY more sense.  Pretty much a sawboard when you do it that way.

[bfauska]

Another option somewhere between slippyblade and my earlier suggestions would be to clamp a straight edge to a board route and then measure the distance between the clamped piece and the newly cut edge, that's your number you need.

Doh!  That makes WAY more sense.  Pretty much a sawboard when you do it that way.

And on that note... you could just make a "router board".

[Homietheclown]

Thanks guys for all the help. With the suggestions here I was able to figure it out.

Unfortunately.... I pulled a newb. When I was cutting the monitor area, I accidently rocked the router and it made a nice dent or gash into the straight line I had already cut. It's much to deep (half a cm) to sand heh.

So I finished the rest of the cabinet side which turned out great. I'll just trace it tomorrow and make two new side pieces. Not the end of the world and not bad for a newb.

P.S. Ive noticed routing out inside corners is not easy. Inside corner like where the monitor meets the speakers or the monitor meets the controls. To be effictive I had to use two different fences. Do you guys round out the inside corners like the ones mentioned or do you make them straight angles. (non-curves)

[bfauska]

I cheat... I have a CNC router.

Is the accident spot too deep to fill with wood putty or bondo? Lots of people use that stuff for restorations.

[Homietheclown]

Is the accident spot too deep to fill with wood putty or bondo? Lots of people use that stuff for restorations.

I'm not sure. I have never used bondo or wood putty. I figured I could at least cut some of the other parts of the cabinet out of it after I am done tracing it. Another thing I thought of was using the boo-boo panel as a template for the panel holders. Kind of like Martijn did.  I thought making a template specifically for the pine holders was a great idea.

Otherwise how the heck do you make them perfectly even on both sides of the cabinet. Oh i don't know what a CNC router is but I am guessing it is awesome and makes things easier lol. Here's a picture of the dip. It's not too bad. It's actually only a couple of millimeters.
I probably could bondo (or whatever) but if I use the side for a pine holder template, then it wont matter right.

Btw I see you on here often. It made me break down and watch The Big Lewboski again. Omgosh. Good times. I forgot how good it was!

[bfauska]

You could probably fix that with a bit of work but it sounds like the template could be a good idea too.

There must be some overlap between The Big Lebowski and arcade folk because there are at least 4 of us on here with The Dude as our avatars. I need to watch it again myself, it's been far too long.

The CNC router is basically a table you put a piece of wood on, hit a button, and watch the router move around cutting out just about anything you can draw on a computer. They can cost a pile of money or you can build them yourself or both. I lucked out a few years ago when we decided we needed one at work and I got tasked with making it. Now I have the luxury of using it evenings and weekends when time allows to do side and personal projects.

[Cardphan1]

Here's a video I used to set up multiple bits, fast and repeatable.