The Portable 4 Player Mame Project! updated

[Wayside]

Greetings fellow arcade enthusiasts!

For the past 6 years, I have been wanting to build my own arcade.  As the years gone by, I constantly told the wife: "Don't buy me anything for my birthday, I'm gonna build my arcade."

But alas, I always found a reason not to.  Either I was overwhelmed, didn't have the scratch to get the parts I wanted, etc etc.

Finally after 6 years, bigger house etc, I said F IT and got the ball rolling.

The end game is to make a 4 player pedestal, that can be easily transported/put away so the wife can't squawk ;-)

So here's the story so far:

I started off, like I said 6 years ago, and got a butt ton of arcade games.  In fact, Im using MAMEUI32 0.128.  Yeah it's that old.  Like 2008 build.  Why am I using that?  Because it works, and if it works don't break it.  I can't seem to find another updated collection, with CHD's etc, so to hell with it.   Again it works.

I would LOVE to run hyperspin or mala, but I can't decipher the tutorials, so I gave up. 

Next, I went to Monsterarcades.com and ordered the deluxe 4 player control panel with LED buttons.  Keith is a stand up guy and actually explained a few things to me in plain English which was nice.
So that's on it's way.

Next, I ordered the LED-Wiz™ 32-port USB Compatible Lighting and Output Controller from Groovy Game Gear, because that's what I need to run the LED's apparently.
So that's on it's way.

I'm now in talks with the guys at Gameongraphics to get a custom overlay done for this bad boy.
So that will be on it's way.

So now I'm in prep mode.  And here's where I could really use the help. 

I grasp the concept of what everything is supposed to do.  And I know what I want everything to do in the end.  I grasp the concept of powering the buttons etc, running wires properly etc, but even after reading countless tutorials, I still seem to be at a loss when it gets to the software part.  I'm hoping when this all gets here, I can get advice when needed.

But first things first:

I want to run MAME of the wife's old mini-laptop.  It's an ACER ASPIRE ONE.  AMD dual core c70.  2gb ddr3 mem.  320gb HDD.   This will work i'm sure, I don't plan on running dragons lair or anything anyways....
It has HMDI out, which is terrific, and 3 USB slots avail.   I believe the panel is coming with 2 encoders, and ledwiz is 1 so that's my 3 slots correct?

I'm aware that the led buttons require either a 5v or 12v source.  The laptop won't power them.  So I'm planning on taking a 500w PSU from my old desktop and using that.  When the encoders come, I will have a question on how to wire it up without burning my house down.

Enjoy your day, and thanks for reading!

[bfauska]

I bet it feels great to finally be going.
The one piece of advice I can toss your way based on the first post is that a 500w PSU from a PC seems like overkill for just running the LEDs. You should be able to find a 5 or 12 volt wall wort or laptop power supply at goodwill fairly easily for a few bucks at most and it will be silent and provide plenty of power for a pile of LEDs.
Keep us posted, and welcome to the support group club.

[Wayside]

Does anyone know, or has anyone tried to hack a Playstation 2 lightgun to work for mame?

[Wayside]

Here's my finished art overlay.   Very happy

[a1pharm]

I'm aware that the led buttons require either a 5v or 12v source.  The laptop won't power them.  So I'm planning on taking a 500w PSU from my old desktop and using that.  When the encoders come, I will have a question on how to wire it up without burning my house down.

Get a 5v USB phone charger instead (get a 2A one if you can - they should be 5-10USD online).

If you need help with the software - start with MALA.  Hyperspin is quite the beast, and you'd probably be best just getting a fully configured setup from someone else if you are really illiterate with this stuff, or you want to spend dozens of hours learning/configuring.

 

[PL1]

Here's my finished art overlay.   Very happy

Are you sure you want the directional arrows on your overlay angled on P3/P4?

Before you answer, you may want to read this part of the FAQ.

TL;DR version -- Green = good.  Red = bad.




Scott

[Wayside]

Never gave that a consideration!  I wish I would have seen that in my research days....

But now that I think about it, and because it's already in production, I'll be sure to mount the joysticks the proper way and bite the bullet on the arrows.   I don't think anyone playing on it is gonna really notice anyhow.

Bummer.

[Wayside]

I'm aware that the led buttons require either a 5v or 12v source.  The laptop won't power them.  So I'm planning on taking a 500w PSU from my old desktop and using that.  When the encoders come, I will have a question on how to wire it up without burning my house down.

Get a 5v USB phone charger instead (get a 2A one if you can - they should be 5-10USD online).

If you need help with the software - start with MALA.  Hyperspin is quite the beast, and you'd probably be best just getting a fully configured setup from someone else if you are really illiterate with this stuff, or you want to spend dozens of hours learning/configuring.

 

Id really like to use something I have just laying around.   For the phone charger scenario:  do i just slice a usb cable and plug it into the wall with bare wires into the ledwiz?   Or will that 12v plug I have in the photo be better?    Do i cut that wire and put the bares into led wiz?

[rablack97]

I'm aware that the led buttons require either a 5v or 12v source.  The laptop won't power them.  So I'm planning on taking a 500w PSU from my old desktop and using that.  When the encoders come, I will have a question on how to wire it up without burning my house down.

Get a 5v USB phone charger instead (get a 2A one if you can - they should be 5-10USD online).

If you need help with the software - start with MALA.  Hyperspin is quite the beast, and you'd probably be best just getting a fully configured setup from someone else if you are really illiterate with this stuff, or you want to spend dozens of hours learning/configuring.

 

Id really like to use something I have just laying around.   For the phone charger scenario:  do i just slice a usb cable and plug it into the wall with bare wires into the ledwiz?   Or will that 12v plug I have in the photo be better?    Do i cut that wire and put the bares into led wiz?

What are you trying to accomplish, you dont need a plug for the LED wiz, just plug the led wiz to the PC via USB, thats where it gets its power.

Then Take 5v from that 500watt PSU or just get one of these, way safer, check ebay you can get them cheaper, http://www.circuitspecialists.com/5-volt-5-amp-power-supply.html?otaid=gpl&gclid=COThtZOo58MCFRCqaQodOLYAkg and use a few terminals to connect all of your "+" legs of your leds to 5v.  Then take the "-" leg of the leds and attach those to the ledwiz terminals and your done. 

Get you copy of ledblinky from arzoo, and your in business.

The old version of hyperspin is easier than the new version, the new version is ridiculous.

Mala is cool if you want more autonomy in how the GUI looks.

[a1pharm]

I'm aware that the led buttons require either a 5v or 12v source.  The laptop won't power them.  So I'm planning on taking a 500w PSU from my old desktop and using that.  When the encoders come, I will have a question on how to wire it up without burning my house down.

Get a 5v USB phone charger instead (get a 2A one if you can - they should be 5-10USD online).

If you need help with the software - start with MALA.  Hyperspin is quite the beast, and you'd probably be best just getting a fully configured setup from someone else if you are really illiterate with this stuff, or you want to spend dozens of hours learning/configuring.

 

Id really like to use something I have just laying around.   For the phone charger scenario:  do i just slice a usb cable and plug it into the wall with bare wires into the ledwiz?   Or will that 12v plug I have in the photo be better?    Do i cut that wire and put the bares into led wiz?

What are you trying to accomplish, you dont need a plug for the LED wiz, just plug the led wiz to the PC via USB, thats where it gets its power.

Then Take 5v from that 500watt PSU or just get one of these, way safer, check ebay you can get them cheaper, http://www.circuitspecialists.com/5-volt-5-amp-power-supply.html?otaid=gpl&gclid=COThtZOo58MCFRCqaQodOLYAkg and use a few terminals to connect all of your "+" legs of your leds to 5v.  Then take the "-" leg of the leds and attach those to the ledwiz terminals and your done. 

Get you copy of ledblinky from arzoo, and your in business.

The old version of hyperspin is easier than the new version, the new version is ridiculous.

Mala is cool if you want more autonomy in how the GUI looks.

Some older netbooks don't have much/any amperage running through their USB ports.  But I agree with you: try it first (before you buy anything or manipulate a PSU)....

[rablack97]

I'm aware that the led buttons require either a 5v or 12v source.  The laptop won't power them.  So I'm planning on taking a 500w PSU from my old desktop and using that.  When the encoders come, I will have a question on how to wire it up without burning my house down.

Get a 5v USB phone charger instead (get a 2A one if you can - they should be 5-10USD online).

If you need help with the software - start with MALA.  Hyperspin is quite the beast, and you'd probably be best just getting a fully configured setup from someone else if you are really illiterate with this stuff, or you want to spend dozens of hours learning/configuring.

 

Id really like to use something I have just laying around.   For the phone charger scenario:  do i just slice a usb cable and plug it into the wall with bare wires into the ledwiz?   Or will that 12v plug I have in the photo be better?    Do i cut that wire and put the bares into led wiz?

What are you trying to accomplish, you dont need a plug for the LED wiz, just plug the led wiz to the PC via USB, thats where it gets its power.

Then Take 5v from that 500watt PSU or just get one of these, way safer, check ebay you can get them cheaper, http://www.circuitspecialists.com/5-volt-5-amp-power-supply.html?otaid=gpl&gclid=COThtZOo58MCFRCqaQodOLYAkg and use a few terminals to connect all of your "+" legs of your leds to 5v.  Then take the "-" leg of the leds and attach those to the ledwiz terminals and your done.  The ground from the Laptop completes the circuit, and all the ledwiz is complete the circuit for each terminal based on the programming code, off / on etc.

Get you copy of ledblinky from arzoo, and your in business.

The old version of hyperspin is easier than the new version, the new version is ridiculous.

Mala is cool if you want more autonomy in how the GUI looks.

[rablack97]

I'm aware that the led buttons require either a 5v or 12v source.  The laptop won't power them.  So I'm planning on taking a 500w PSU from my old desktop and using that.  When the encoders come, I will have a question on how to wire it up without burning my house down.

Get a 5v USB phone charger instead (get a 2A one if you can - they should be 5-10USD online).

If you need help with the software - start with MALA.  Hyperspin is quite the beast, and you'd probably be best just getting a fully configured setup from someone else if you are really illiterate with this stuff, or you want to spend dozens of hours learning/configuring.

 

Id really like to use something I have just laying around.   For the phone charger scenario:  do i just slice a usb cable and plug it into the wall with bare wires into the ledwiz?   Or will that 12v plug I have in the photo be better?    Do i cut that wire and put the bares into led wiz?

What are you trying to accomplish, you dont need a plug for the LED wiz, just plug the led wiz to the PC via USB, thats where it gets its power.

Then Take 5v from that 500watt PSU or just get one of these, way safer, check ebay you can get them cheaper, http://www.circuitspecialists.com/5-volt-5-amp-power-supply.html?otaid=gpl&gclid=COThtZOo58MCFRCqaQodOLYAkg and use a few terminals to connect all of your "+" legs of your leds to 5v.  Then take the "-" leg of the leds and attach those to the ledwiz terminals and your done. 

Get you copy of ledblinky from arzoo, and your in business.

The old version of hyperspin is easier than the new version, the new version is ridiculous.

Mala is cool if you want more autonomy in how the GUI looks.

Some older netbooks don't have much/any amperage running through their USB ports.  But I agree with you: try it first (before you buy anything or manipulate a PSU)....

Still at that, he could still get a small 5v psu or a smaller maybe 250 watt PSU and run everthing off of that, no need for a wall plug, and those tiny microfiber wires.  If theres not enough amperage in the laptop, splice off of the PSU using good gauge wire into the LED wiz.  Also, he could add extra fans, underlighting etc....all from one unit.

[rablack97]

Just get something like this and be done with it, 5v 12v all in one not overkill more durable, and expanded options. 

http://www.techpartswarehouse.com/product/DE-2N333-Dell-250W-PFC-ATX-Power-Supply-Optiplex-GX240-GX260-3344.cfm?sid=google&gclid=CLO-4qir58MCFYRAaQodyDgAVw

[grippie]

Love that Vader image. Be curious to see what else you have planned for the artwork on the sides of the pedestal/marquee if any. etc.


Also the software part can be intimidating for sure. I'm an IT guy and it took me weeks to get up to speed on hyperspin. Plus i'm not sure it would run very well on that laptop. mala, or maximus arcade only take a little bit of tutorial reading/digging on youtube to get up and running. Then setting up other emu's like console's are a breeze. plus you will spend weeks upon weeks getting artwork files and fine tuning it.


I'd put all your energy into the build and design, and worry about the software when you are waiting for all the coats of paint to dry! 

[bfauska]

Just get something like this and be done with it, 5v 12v all in one not overkill more durable, and expanded options. 

http://www.techpartswarehouse.com/product/DE-2N333-Dell-250W-PFC-ATX-Power-Supply-Optiplex-GX240-GX260-3344.cfm?sid=google&gclid=CLO-4qir58MCFYRAaQodyDgAVw

I'm not sure how adding a computer power supply to a build that doesn't need power for anything but LEDs is the easy solution or not overkill. If you match the voltage of a wall plug to the LEDs you use its a much simpler addition and potentially free if you've got an old one laying around.

[jugger18]

Nevermind

[rablack97]

Just get something like this and be done with it, 5v 12v all in one not overkill more durable, and expanded options. 

http://www.techpartswarehouse.com/product/DE-2N333-Dell-250W-PFC-ATX-Power-Supply-Optiplex-GX240-GX260-3344.cfm?sid=google&gclid=CLO-4qir58MCFYRAaQodyDgAVw

I'm not sure how adding a computer power supply to a build that doesn't need power for anything but LEDs is the easy solution or not overkill. If you match the voltage of a wall plug to the LEDs you use its a much simpler addition and potentially free if you've got an old one laying around.

Okie dokie, have him plug multiple voltage plugs into an outlet wired to those tiny micrometer 6 strand wires from those plugs.  The power supply gives him future options for expansion inclusive of 5v and 12v options, if need be.  Yeah the plugs will work but As he said w/o burning the house down.  Either way plug or PSU if he doesnt plan on doing anything else with this after its built, i agree go with with plugs if you have them laying around and are on a super tight budget.

[Wayside]

Thanks for the inputs gang!

To clarify, since my first post might have been too vague:

The whole concept of this build is to make it portable.  I don't have a space in my house to say, "That's where my mame cabinet is gonna live."  The plan is to make a 4 player unit, that can be setup and taken down, and stored with relative ease.  I also want to be able to bring to a friends place if I so choose.

I know that the dimensions of the control panel is 48 x 21 x 5 1/2.   I'll be making a platform base for the panel to rest on.  Approx 30" high.   The specific design will depend on how I can lock the control panel down to it, and unlock it.  Making it sturdy enough so that when 4 people are hammering ninja turtles on it, it doesn't fall over.  And most importantly easy to transport and store.

As far as the laptop running things, I just bought the wife a new one, so I get her hand me down.  It's slim, lightweight, can easily fit inside the control panel, and has enough USB slots to fit the amount of boards I need to plug into it.

I'm an average computer techie at best, and I have a butt ton of spare parts around.  The very first idea was a typical 4 player cabinet, so I had my old tower that would live inside and run the show.  Now that plans have changed, I don't want to have to haul the panel, base and the tower if i go over to a friends place, when I can just haul the panel and base.   

The reason I even brought up my old pc power supply, is it's just sitting there doing nothing.  I read/was told that to really make the buttons shine, I should aim for 12v, which is why i suggested using said power supply.  I believe I would just have to strip a female plug from a spare splitter set I have lying around, and run the yellow? wire to the led chain right?   Clearly it's overkill, but i'm under the impression that it would work. 

Once this pedestal is done, I cant see myself putting on any additions, save light guns or flight stick.   although I do have some led light strips laying around......

I really appreciate the input again

EDIT:  just looked up the specs online and it seems this laptop puts out 5v through the USB's.  It has 2 USB2.0 and 1 USB3.0.   Do you think i'm wrong trying to get the 12v?

[rablack97]

Thanks for the inputs gang!

To clarify, since my first post might have been too vague:

The whole concept of this build is to make it portable.  I don't have a space in my house to say, "That's where my mame cabinet is gonna live."  The plan is to make a 4 player unit, that can be setup and taken down, and stored with relative ease.  I also want to be able to bring to a friends place if I so choose.

I know that the dimensions of the control panel is 48 x 21 x 5 1/2.   I'll be making a platform base for the panel to rest on.  Approx 30" high.   The specific design will depend on how I can lock the control panel down to it, and unlock it.  Making it sturdy enough so that when 4 people are hammering ninja turtles on it, it doesn't fall over.  And most importantly easy to transport and store.

As far as the laptop running things, I just bought the wife a new one, so I get her hand me down.  It's slim, lightweight, can easily fit inside the control panel, and has enough USB slots to fit the amount of boards I need to plug into it.

I'm an average computer techie at best, and I have a butt ton of spare parts around.  The very first idea was a typical 4 player cabinet, so I had my old tower that would live inside and run the show.  Now that plans have changed, I don't want to have to haul the panel, base and the tower if i go over to a friends place, when I can just haul the panel and base.   

The reason I even brought up my old pc power supply, is it's just sitting there doing nothing.  I read/was told that to really make the buttons shine, I should aim for 12v, which is why i suggested using said power supply.  I believe I would just have to strip a female plug from a spare splitter set I have lying around, and run the yellow? wire to the led chain right?   Clearly it's overkill, but i'm under the impression that it would work. 

Once this pedestal is done, I cant see myself putting on any additions, save light guns or flight stick.   although I do have some led light strips laying around......

I really appreciate the input again

EDIT:  just looked up the specs online and it seems this laptop puts out 5v through the USB's.  It has 2 USB2.0 and 1 USB3.0.   Do you think i'm wrong trying to get the 12v?

Bro, your not gonna get 12v from any USB port first of all.

Second you need to determine what types of LEDs you will be using 5v or 12v, if you fire 12v through a 5v led it will blow the hell up. 5v leds shine just as bright at 12 leds, 5v super brights will hurt your eyes all the same if you look right at them.

If you already have a computer PSU laying around use that instead of the plugs man, might be overkill but so what its useless sitting in a corner, I have computer PSU in all of my rigs too....most LED strips are 12V, i dont know what your buttons leds are but you need to find out if they are 5v or 12v rated before you go adding juice to them.

You also better look into whether the led wiz can handle 12v leds, i think it can, but not sure, some folks went to the PACLED for the 12v's.  Do some reading on your controllers man, your just itching to add juice to this stuff and the thinking behind it is gonna piss you off when stuff starts going up in smoke.

[Wayside]

Oh believe me I'm not gonna hook up anything until i'm sure and it's in my hands ;-)

right now im just trying to make sure I'm understanding the lingo.  I sent keith at monsterarcades an email asking what type of leds hes sending me so I have to wait on him.   According to his site, it's either 5v or 12v.  I doubt a single led can take either/or so I assume they are 12v, and you can run 5 if you choose.  Correct?

Obviously ill have to wait until I get my hands on them, fire them up at 5v and decide if it's good enough for what I want.

I havent seen anything like these in person to compare them to, so I'm just going by general consensus atm.

If i have to go 5v I'm totally fine with that, I just thought 12v would be the cats meow.

[bfauska]

I missed that you already have a power supply from a pc available. If you have both and have the room then the power supply would be a more versatile and straight forward wiring project.
I think everyone is in agreement though that you first need to determine what the required voltage for your LEDs is. Of course now that we all know the power supply is an option I guess it doesn't matter, it has BOTH the 5v and the 12v. The 5v off the USB alone could run an LED or two but it won't have the amperage to run a 4 player cp worth of buttons.

[a1pharm]

right now im just trying to make sure I'm understanding the lingo.  I sent keith at monsterarcades an email asking what type of leds hes sending me so I have to wait on him.   According to his site, it's either 5v or 12v.  I doubt a single led can take either/or so I assume they are 12v, and you can run 5 if you choose.  Correct?

That's correct.

I have 12v LEDs installed in my cab (the buttons, sticks, and trackball), although I only run 5v to them now.

LEDs are supposed to last a crazy long time, but from my experience, the 12v LEDs don't last that long (weeks to months) under their max load.  Therefore, I just use 5v now (hopefully this will really push out the life expectancy).

The brightness between 12v and 5v with my LEDs was almost unnoticeable.  Given my personal experience and tastes, I would recommend you just use 5v.

The 12v may give you slightly more brightness, but the headache is not worth it.

[AzureKnight]

I know the conversation has been dominated by the LED talks, but I thought I would throw out a link to some clamps:

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=204

I used four similar to these to attach my CP to my machine.  You might want to look into something similar to make it easy to mount/dismount from your pedestal base.

[DeLuSioNal29]

But now that I think about it, and because it's already in production, I'll be sure to mount the joysticks the proper way and bite the bullet on the arrows.   I don't think anyone playing on it is gonna really notice anyhow.

I think you'll be fine with the artwork and the arrows being the way that they are.  It flows better.  When players 3 & 4 approach the joystick and look down, it will look correct.  When they are looking at the screen, they won't be looking down:  So they will naturally move the joystick towards the screen if needing to move up.

So I would have intentionally chosen to put the arrows on the way that you have them, even though I corrected the angle of the joysticks.  You're good buddy!  No worries!   

DeLuSioNaL29

[Wayside]

Thanks for the tips guys.   Just received word that all my parts are on their way so I should be able to start by next week.

In the meantime I've transfered all my software to the laptop, and while the actual name works, the mala front end lags something fierce on startup and shutdown.   Not sure what I can do about that.

[a1pharm]

Thanks for the tips guys.   Just received word that all my parts are on their way so I should be able to start by next week.

In the meantime I've transfered all my software to the laptop, and while the actual name works, the mala front end lags something fierce on startup and shutdown.   Not sure what I can do about that.

How much RAM is in that laptop?

[Wayside]

Thanks for the tips guys.   Just received word that all my parts are on their way so I should be able to start by next week.

In the meantime I've transfered all my software to the laptop, and while the actual name works, the mala front end lags something fierce on startup and shutdown.   Not sure what I can do about that.

How much RAM is in that laptop?

Only 2 gb ddr3.

Here's an interesting tidbit.   Just got off the horn with Keith at monster arcades.   I'm getting 2 xinmo controllers, and the LEDs are indeed 12v.    I'm also getting a trackball.

So with ledwiz coming that's 4 usb slots.   The laptop has 3.    He said that I might be able to get a powered usb splitter, but he's unsure how the led wiz will hook up because he thinks it needs to be connected to the same power source the LEDs are powered from.

Any ideas if this will work?

[Skrathe]

A bit expensive but this is a great hub if you go that route.

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mountable-Industrial-SuperSpeed-ST4300USBM/dp/B004C3W25M/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1424371387&sr=8-16&keywords=industrial+usb+hub

[a1pharm]

Thanks for the tips guys.   Just received word that all my parts are on their way so I should be able to start by next week.

In the meantime I've transfered all my software to the laptop, and while the actual name works, the mala front end lags something fierce on startup and shutdown.   Not sure what I can do about that.

How much RAM is in that laptop?

Only 2 gb ddr3.

Here's an interesting tidbit.   Just got off the horn with Keith at monster arcades.   I'm getting 2 xinmo controllers, and the LEDs are indeed 12v.    I'm also getting a trackball.

So with ledwiz coming that's 4 usb slots.   The laptop has 3.    He said that I might be able to get a powered usb splitter, but he's unsure how the led wiz will hook up because he thinks it needs to be connected to the same power source the LEDs are powered from.

Any ideas if this will work?

1. Check your task manager to make sure you haven't maxxed your RAM out
2. Get a trackball for a PS2 port or get a powered usb hub.

Keep in mind: you can build a cheap Intel PC for ~140 and avoid all of the issues you're having now...

[Wayside]

behold my awesome schematics!   Is this correct?

I'm thinking about just getting one of these from in town:
http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/insignia-insignia-4-port-usb-2-0-hub-ns-pch5421-c-ns-pch5421-c/10290274.aspx?path=a4b75fdd9eecc11e687d84ec20c973f2en02

Is there going to be that much difference between usb 2.0 and 3.0?   If so ill get the 3.0

[a1pharm]

behold my awesome schematics!   Is this correct?

I'm thinking about just getting one of these from in town:
http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/insignia-insignia-4-port-usb-2-0-hub-ns-pch5421-c-ns-pch5421-c/10290274.aspx?path=a4b75fdd9eecc11e687d84ec20c973f2en02

Is there going to be that much difference between usb 2.0 and 3.0?   If so ill get the 3.0

USB 3.0 can support more amperage (faster charging of USB devices - but also useful if you have a shitload of LEDs) and faster data transfers (this is not important to you).

[Wayside]

Well some good news today.   Got my led wiz from ggg.  Whats awesome is it was at my door the day after i got notification it was being sent!

Bad news is that laptop is not gonna cut it.  Too many games chop, especially the sound.  So i dusted off the old pc (where i was gonna get the power supply from)  but that thing is even worse parts wise than the laptop.

I guess im off to the store!

UPDATE

Intel celeron j1800 2.41ghz
4 gb ram
Intel HD integrated graphics.

I can get this setup relatively cheap.  Any thoughts?

And the bonus questions is do you think it could handle some of the consuming games like MK3, SF3, Rampage 3d, KI2?

[Wayside]

Well good news today.   Got my led wiz already, the art should be in today, and the rest is in Wednesday.

Picked up a new pc.   
Processor Type   Intel Pentium J2900
Processor Speed   2.41 GHz
RAM   4 GB (DDR3 SDRAM)

Loaded all 43gb of crap onto it and low and behold everything works the way I wanted it to!

Also got a free (brand new) 7 port powered usb hub too.

Thanks to everyone who tried to help me sort out the laptop situation, it was worth a shot.

Looking online, I can only find tutorials and videos and images of people connecting rbg LEDs to their control panels.   So the usb cable goes into the usb hub.   That means led wiz now has 5v in it correct?  And I should have no wire going into the 5v slot on ledwiz?  Since I'm using single color ones: do I need to jump the voltage terminals on the end?  The whole thing should be 5v only.    Therefore if I put one wire into each slot on ledwiz, then daisy chain all the grounds into the ground slot on led wiz that should be correct?   I estimate using 29 LEDs total.   It's the ledwiz 32 port.

Edit:  just looking at the schematics again I may have this totally wrong.   Does the positive get daisy chained and connected to the 5v slot, and all the grounds get individually put into a slot on the hubs?  Wow this is confusing.  I'm an idiot

Thanks for your time.

[rablack97]

Ok man, your over thinking this. Per the LED wiz manual.

For operating only LED’s, it may not be necessary to be concerned with the “Bank Voltage Select” terminals at all.

If only theUSBport power is to be used to power external devices, be aware that it can supply only 5vDCpower with a total current delivery of about 500ma. Larger
5v DC loads, like small incandescent lamps and relays, or large numbers of LEDs, should be connected to the PC Power supply.

Connect your leds like this.

The red wire is 12v coming in from your PC power supply, the yellows are the "+" legs to all of your leds.





All of the "-" leads from your leds go into the LED-WIZ terminals. 



Take gnd from the PC supply and connect that to the GND terminal on the led wiz.  That will complete the ground loop for the leds.  (Note: You may or may not need to add the "GND" line to the LED wiz, on my setup I don't have anything on this terminal, and it works fine.  The USB input might give you the ground loop you need for the leds.)

Plug the ledwiz into your PC or hub.  You shouldnt have to use the +5 USB output terminal, or the bank terminals, as shown in the above example.

[Wayside]

Tyvm rablack.   So to clarify:  the pc power goes into that block at the bottom.   I daisy chain all ten blocks therefore all ten (20 accounting 1 each side) spot now have 5 or 12v depending on what I pick.   So I would need 2 of those for 30 lights.   Each led has 1 positive going into to "power" block and the negative goes into a numbered slot in the ledwiz.   Can I double up on the positives?  Like can I put two LEDs in one of those power slots or should it be 1 only for each?

[rablack97]

That's more of your choice in your wiring if you want to double up, power is going to work the same.

However, wiring can get confusing, so a good wiring setup will have one led per block terminal, for ease of tracing and troubleshooting.

Also look up wiring ferrules...



Crimp these onto the ends of your wire and then insert into the block, stranded wires tend to break off under the screw pressure of the terminal blocks.

I have 2 terminal blocks in my rig, total of 40, just jump a wire from one block to the new one and you have another 20 spots for led leads.  Plus you have just added an expansion terminal for other cool 12v or 5v features in your CP.....

[Wayside]

Tomorrow tomorrow.   Can't wait.

Thanks rablack.  I went and picked up two of those terminals.   I'll get some of those wire connectors later.

In the mean time, more questions.  what spinner do you guys recommend?  And what would I need to play the classic Star Wars flight game?  Like what kind of flight stick?   

I have a 4 way joy in this build, when I wire it, do I wire it to the same spots as the player 1, 8 way joystick?

Lastly, how come I can't seem to find any decent light guns in stock anywhere?!?!  Geez

Thanks for your time

[PL1]

what spinner do you guys recommend? 

The Turbo Twist 2 from GGG is the most common choice. (Best piece of arcade hardware I've ever bought.   )

The SpinTrak from Ultimarc is another great but often overlooked option.

And what would I need to play the classic Star Wars flight game?  Like what kind of flight stick?   

You'll probably want an analog joystick or the original SW yoke (or similar) -- an 8-way trigger-stick will not work well.

Some people have used a trackball.  YMMV.   


Scott

[rablack97]

what spinner do you guys recommend?

Lastly, how come I can't seem to find any decent light guns in stock anywhere?!?!  Geez

Thanks for your time

Don't forget about this guy.....Spinner

http://www.retroarcadeslive.com/webstore/webstore.asp?productid=SS%20SPINNER&category=84

Heard these worked pretty good, email Andy at ultimarc to see when he will restock the Aimtrak's

http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Display-Including-Projectors-Playstation-2/dp/B0073X8MR0

[Wayside]

It figures the items I want aren't in stock.  W/e. 

So I pretty much have the pic end all setup with the exception of custom graphics on the mala end.  Got a startup video, only to find out I didn't have the right codec to get it to play the video!   But got that hammered out.

The real puzzle is when I fire up the pc, the tv switched to 1080i instead of 1080p.   Most of the games wouldn't work correctly and I though Wtfbbq!?,  After some dickering with the desktop settings I managed to get it back to 1080p and tadaa!   It's beautiful.   

When you guys apply adhesive backed vinyl cpo, do you use a spray of some kind to help apply it?  What kind of concoction do you use?  Also what gauge wire did you use for your wiring?  18 gauge?

Thanks for your time

[Wayside]

Heres a question:  i have two xin mo controllers and ledwiz.  Obviously.   Ive been reading about remapping and stuff.   The plan is to setup and tear down this pedestal.  when i unplug the control panel from my pc, are all my button configurations going to be reset?  Cause that would suck

[rablack97]

It figures the items I want aren't in stock.  W/e. 

So I pretty much have the pic end all setup with the exception of custom graphics on the mala end.  Got a startup video, only to find out I didn't have the right codec to get it to play the video!   But got that hammered out.

The real puzzle is when I fire up the pc, the tv switched to 1080i instead of 1080p.   Most of the games wouldn't work correctly and I though Wtfbbq!?,  After some dickering with the desktop settings I managed to get it back to 1080p and tadaa!   It's beautiful.   

When you guys apply adhesive backed vinyl cpo, do you use a spray of some kind to help apply it?  What kind of concoction do you use?  Also what gauge wire did you use for your wiring?  18 gauge?

Thanks for your time

Trick question right? Whats software do i use to install windows 7?  What state does the homefield of the Texas Rangers reside?      It's adhesive backed sir, you just stick it on......the concoction is your hand, some masking tape and felt vinyl plastic car squeegee.

18 for electrical, 20-22 for CP and low voltage stuff.

[rablack97]

Heres a question:  i have two xin mo controllers and ledwiz.  Obviously.   Ive been reading about remapping and stuff.   The plan is to setup and tear down this pedestal.  when i unplug the control panel from my pc, are all my button configurations going to be reset?  Cause that would suck

have no idea about the xin mo, i know that with the ipac and the led wiz you dont lose your settings/configuration when power is lost.

[yotsuya]

If you keep plugging in and unplugging USB devices, yes, eventually you will see some issues with the way you've set everything up. It has to do with the way Windows does USB device addressing.

[rablack97]

If you keep plugging in and unplugging USB devices, yes, eventually you will see some issues with the way you've set everything up. It has to do with the way Windows does USB device addressing.

Well i'll be damned, what he said 

[Wayside]

Terrific news!   Got all my stuff in yesterday.   

I'm at work so I'll throw up some photos later.    Keith at monsterarcades.com did a fantastic job.  The cp is very clean and was packaged very well.  I got a ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- ton of packing peanuts and styrofoam now.   

After inspecting the goods I noticed a few things.   

It's a good thing I bought wire for the led wiring.
My trackball didn't come with a light or mount for it underneath, so I have to make one.
I'm a doofus and got my encoders mixed up.  I in fact ordered mini pacs. 
The screws that came with the happ joys are too small.  They slide right trough the mounting hole.   Good thing I have those covered.   The zippy stick didn't come with any screws....

In regards to yotsuya, all my stuff will be connected to a powered usb hub so technically I'll only be unplugging one usb.   Hopefully that won't be an issue.

And rablack I just meant I know some people use a soap/water solution to help align the vinyl.  Was curious if anybody had other tricks to make it easy.

Now to start priming!

[yotsuya]

In regards to yotsuya, all my stuff will be connected to a powered usb hub so technically I'll only be unplugging one usb.   Hopefully that won't be an issue.

I dunno, if you're going to be breaking the connection between the PC and the Hub, you'll probably still see an issue. On a cab I built for a friend, we just keep the controllers plugged in all the time. No issue that way.

From DrVenture's thread regarding his utility to help with this issue:

Essentially, it's my take on trying to solve the problem of what happens when you have a cab that supports USB input devices that might be disconnected or reconnected in various combinations at various times.

Many games support the concept of a JoystickID (and you can use another utility called JoyIDs to set those id's easily). The idea being that it assigns an ID to a joystick and that ID persists for that particular joystick, even if it's unplugged, other devices are plugged in and then the original device is reconnected.

However, from what I can tell of Mame, it doesn't support Joystick IDs. It appears that mame simply enumerates the devices current connected to the system when Mame is run, and subsequently uses those numbers in all the CFG and controller files it reads.

And since windows enumerates USB devices by Vendor ID, and since the vendor ID is essentially a random hex number, there's no telling where specific devices will end up in the enumeration order.

Soooo.. If you have 2 U360's, and you map them in MAME as Joystick 1 and 2, but then you plug in a game pad and it happens to sort BEFORE the U360s, mame will now think they're sticks 2 and 3.

[rablack97]

Lucian did a good vid on applying graphics.

[Skrathe]

Heres a question:  i have two xin mo controllers and ledwiz.  Obviously.   Ive been reading about remapping and stuff.   The plan is to setup and tear down this pedestal.  when i unplug the control panel from my pc, are all my button configurations going to be reset?  Cause that would suck

From My experience I know light guns get pissed off when you unplug it form usb. You will probably also have problems with anything analog.

[Wayside]

Greetings!

I'd like to share my thoughts now that I'm almost finished my project:

First, thanks to everyone who gave me input.  Whether it be sarcastic or not, I can appreciate how frustrating it can be when you know something and try to explain it to someone who doesn't.  I don't consider my self an imbecile, but when it come to electrical, I don't like to take any chances, or risk ruining an expensive piece of equipment.  So I ask as many questions as necessary until I can understand it in my lingo so to speak.

Thanks for your patience everyone!

When all the parts came rolling in I was naturally gung ho to get it going but I calmed down and took a more methodical approach, nowing I don't want to have to redo this whole thing so I made sure I knew what needed to be done.  Many smoke breaks later I started assembling.  I made sure to prime and paint everything up nice.  Sanding etc...I'm more of a wood guy than anything.   Once the pieces were dry I made sure to properly apply my cpo.   Here some fun facts:  that overlay cost me $170 shipped.   Here in town it would have been $20 a square foot just to have it printed, and I had to supply the graphic.   No laminate on it or nothing.  Yay Canada.

I spent probably 30 getting the cpo done and it came out sharp.  I'll upload pics when I get home.

After assembling the base, I got my mounting bolts installed, and I must say it does what I want it to do very well!
Easy off easy on, and the wing nuts with washers secure very well.

After getting it home (I did all the prep work at my shop.  I make windows for a living). I set it up to start wiring.  After aboot 2 hours of re reading all the advice I got, referring to the inter webs, I was confident enough to start laying out the assembly.   I Started with getting the buttons and joysticks wired first.  Wow what a chore.  When you do it the first time it can be hairy, but I managed to get them all going plus the trackball.   Except I mounted the trackball upside down.   Fail.   I thought the arrow meant up not down.    Found all the grounds that I had put on the wrong prong and fixed those.   Fired up mamas to do a test and discovered I had to flash each ipac mini separately.   Fast forward another 2 hours, and BLAM!   The whole board functions!

Now for the big job of ledwiz.   So I start with the top six buttons just to get a feel for it.  And I ran out of wire.....but anyways I try to fire up the power supply only to find out I needed to jump some wires on it first.   Once that was running, I connected the six I had wired, and behold!  Nothing happened.   Wtfbbq.   So I power down, check my connections, everything looks good.  Come to find out buy trial and error, I had the bulbs backwards.   Fail.   So I go and test every lamp and switch all the backwars bulbs around rather that pulling all my connectors and risk breaking one.   Note to new people.   Pre check yer bulbs!

After download led blinky, and running the led test I got em going!  Then I realised I just spent 7 hours on wiring alone so I said ---fudgesicle--- it I'll do the rest tomorrow.

You guys who have provided me with info, no matter how trivial you may think it is, have helped me achieve a 6 year dream of mine.   Thank you very much.


Now what dimensions do you recommend for my base because the one I built gets kind of rickety when you're mashing street fighter.    The one I made is 21 wide, 21 deep, 30 tall.  I've seen some examples around but I think I'm going to have to go with an "A" shape to avoid side to side tipping.   Front and back don't seem to be an issue.

Have a good day!

[bfauska]

Sounds like good progress, but um...

 

Keep up the good work. (unless it looks crappy, since we can't tell).

 

[Wayside]

here's some pics

[bfauska]

Lookin' good.

[Wayside]

Got all the lights to work.  I tried my best to keep it neat but with the supplied wiring harneses it was tough.  As you can see i didnt buy enough yellow.....

So after my light test i went to test the controls again and discovered the entire blue player section and bottom 3 yellow buttons didnt work.   After some reverse engineering i found out it is my ground wire daisy chain.   I didnt work on that side of the board last night, so i dont think i snagged or pulled any of those connections.   I guess the wire is so small, 22 guage, that maybe the wire is broken inside somehow.   I got no other ideas.  So ill have to rewire those connections.

Now my trackball wont register either.   I think its because i nay have unplugged it from the usb hub, and then plugged it into a different slot.   I didnt pay attention because i dudnt think it mattered.   I guess its an addressing issue?    Im considering taking the usb off and plugging it into the miji ipac.   Which ill have to reposition.   But i noticed on the ultimarc site drawing the trackball should have 2 grounds (1 per wire set) but only 1 set of wires has a ground.   Will that matter?  I'm not sure hiw to work around that.

[yamatetsu]

If you open your trackball up you'll probably find that it indeed has two wires for grounds, but that those two are spliced into one inside the trackball. That way you only have to connect one grounds wire to the minipac, not two.

[Wayside]

Sup gang.

So I got everything running.   Spinner came in yesterday, but I'm having trouble mapping controls for some racing games.    I believe I have to go into mame and change the controller for dial and paddle to mouse, but when I tab in game I don't know what setting to change to make accelerate a button control.   Specifically games that had a foot pedal or shift.   Any help?

I had to remake my pedestal base which is why I haven't posted any new pics yet btw.   Old one was too narrow.

Thanks