Main > Main Forum
Building a barstool cabinet, here is my setup and am I going to have issues?
screamingtiger:
Lots of good information here and great ideas for extra inputs for the XIN MO. I didnt realize it combines inputs like that.
I hope all my adming buttons work out, being able to press save state and load state quickly are really something I want. I use it a lot for NES because I suck!
Hey PL1, I am confused by the hysteresis comment. I bought normal pushbuttons and I hope they work out because a lot of the games I want to play are button mashers. Does that mean I am going to have issues if I need to press the button real fast like for beat'em ups?
PL1:
Hysteresis is more noticeable on flipper buttons than player buttons IMHO.
You shouldn't have a problem since most of those games originally used microswitches.
Good news: If you don't like those player buttons, replacement buttons are fairly cheap. ;D
Scott
screamingtiger:
Ran into my first issue yesterday. My control panel is like a "box top" where it sits on top of the sides like the lid to a box. It is flush all around.
I wanted to hinge it with a piano hinge inside (hidden) but realized I cant do that with that geometry. tried it a few ways, the only way would be to use some sort of funky spring hinge. As the panel swings open, it has to rotate up on its corner therefore stretching the hinge. The only way to use it would be to have a gap when it is closed.
So I decided once I get it wired and working I probably wont have to go in there very often. So I screwed it down.
wierd how simple things end up being so hard to visualize sometimes.
There are some options for me to have the front of the control panel rotate at is bottom (the part with coin buttons) but I dont really like that.
dkersten:
Euro style hinges allow for "overlay". They might seem daunting if you haven't used them before, but they are actually pretty simple. You just have to pick the right hinge for the job. If your material is 3/4" and your top overlays the sides so they are flush, then you need a "full overlay" or "3/4" overlay" hinge. The hinge will pull the top away from the side enough to swing open and still be a hidden hinge. And they are 3 way adjustable so you can dial it in to exactly where you want things to line up, just in case you drill your holes slightly off.
screamingtiger:
I was going to use those little cabinet latches, the ones withthe little wheels on them that hold the door in place when closed. With those, and the euro hinges will the panel be secure and tight or will it want to move around. The piano hinge I was going to use was part of the structure. I want the panel tight so it is not too noise when banging on the buttons.
Thanks for the info, I may go check out the hinges. I needed to get the panel secure so I can move on to the bezel to mount the LCD. I spent way too much time on the hinge :)
--- Quote from: dkersten on September 03, 2014, 12:04:06 pm ---Euro style hinges allow for "overlay". They might seem daunting if you haven't used them before, but they are actually pretty simple. You just have to pick the right hinge for the job. If your material is 3/4" and your top overlays the sides so they are flush, then you need a "full overlay" or "3/4" overlay" hinge. The hinge will pull the top away from the side enough to swing open and still be a hidden hinge. And they are 3 way adjustable so you can dial it in to exactly where you want things to line up, just in case you drill your holes slightly off.
--- End quote ---
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version