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Sanwa JFL / I-Pac USB
rCadeGaming:
If your system is that new it should be fine, but something that new is likely to have USB 3.0 ports. Try making sure its plugged into a 2.0, that's what the website says it's designed for in any case. Just a guess...
How old is the I-PAC? Is it a 2 or 4? When's the last time you updated the firmware?
Try different microswitches, a different encoder, a different PC, etc. You haven't yet isolated any of those three as the problem, as you will need to to troubleshoot this.
fleskebacon:
Ok, tried another PC, same problem. Wired up the buttons to the joystick inputs, problem gone. Wired the joystick back up to the same inputs, problem returns. Wired up another Sanwa JLF, still same problem. (This other Sanwa is usually hooked up to the player 2 inputs on the same boards, and it displays the same problem there.)
The I-Pac is a brand new I-Pac 2, haven't updated the firmware.
By different encoder, you mean like another I-Pac?
Sprayed electronics cleaner inside the switches, problem gone! For now, at least. I'll see how that works out and post back. :)
rCadeGaming:
Ah, it sounds like there was too much contact bounce and you reduced it by improving the connection between the contacts. Nice.
What kind of cleaner did you use? I keep DeoxIT around for cleaning rotary switches and such, but I hadn't thought of using it for button/stick switch contacts; makes perfect sense though. Sorry to steer you in the wrong direction, I just had never seen this with my JLF's. I'll keep it in mind now.
--- Quote from: fleskebacon on September 16, 2013, 06:13:14 pm ---By different encoder, you mean like another I-Pac?
--- End quote ---
I did, but it sounds like you've successfully isolated it to the microswitches in the stick. You should lube up all the contacting plastic parts while you've got it apart.
EDIT: Well, you wouldn't have had to buy a whole other I-PAC, that would be a little much. To help rule out your encoder as the problem you can see if anything changes by just wiring the microswitch(es) in question to a gamepad or keyboard.
fleskebacon:
Don't worry, I like to keep all options open until the problem's solved. Thanks for the input!
The JLF's are also brand new, so I kind of had a hard time thinking they could both be bad. But both the PCB and everything else was soaked in lube when I got them, maybe there was lube inside the switches which made them behave strangely? I don't know, I'm just hoping this solved it for good. It was an immediate improvement, so it's obvious that I'm at least onto something. :)
Lucky for me I didn't beat the sticks to death in frustration before I could solve it. That would be classic..
I used CRC electronics cleaner. I suppose the switches are supposed to work dry and don't require any lubrication at all?
ahofle:
I have had this problem with Happ Supers + iPAC4 for quite a while and it is indeed bounce. I typically reflow the solder and that fixes it for a while but it usually comes back eventually. I was considering going with quick disconnects, but it sounds like that doesn't help. I will definitely be trying your cleaner trick. When you say you cleaned the inside of the switches, do you mean you took apart the actual microswitches and sprayed the delicate metal contacts inside?
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