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Sanwa JFL / I-Pac USB
fleskebacon:
--- Quote from: ahofle on September 19, 2013, 11:59:09 pm ---
--- Quote from: fleskebacon on September 18, 2013, 10:29:34 am ---The stick is now still behaving properly after the electronic cleaner job. :)
--- End quote ---
Can you elaborate a little on how you cleaned them? Did you open up the switches and spray them inside?
--- End quote ---
I did it the easy way and didn't open them or anything. First, I sprayed WD-40 into them, just letting it flow into every opening in the switch casing. Then I clicked the switches several times to let it work its way through as much as possible of the interior of the switch. (Yeah yeah, I know WD-40 is an amateur trick and doesn't at all belong inside a microswitch, but I was running out of options, and WD-40 does clean out tarnish and other ugly stuff that also doesn't belong inside the switches.)
I let them sit overnight to get thoroughly soaked inside, and then I repeated the same procedure with CRC electronics cleaner a couple of times, to clean out all the WD-40 and then let them dry.
Worked like a charm for me at least, haven't had a problem with them since. And the sticks move a lot more smoothly now as well, so obviously something wasn't running right in there. This strongly supports Andy's opinion that the problem here is faulty switches and not bad debouncing routines in the I-Pac.
rCadeGaming:
Andy, thanks for the explanation.
--- Quote from: AndyWarne on September 22, 2013, 04:56:03 am ---There were clearly faulty switches and I suspect these switches are also faulty, they likely have tarnished contacts, or possibly the secondary contact at the pivot point of the lever inside is flaky.
--- End quote ---
It certainly sounds that way from the OP's testimony. How about you aholfe, does contact cleaner do the trick?
ahofle:
I haven't had a chance to clean them yet, but I can say that they are indeed older cherry switches so perhaps they are from the crap batch. Although I've seen the problem on the switches in my original Happ Supers as well as with some replacement cherry switches I picked up a while back. I'm thinking of replacing several of them as a test. What is a 'good' arcade microswitch these days?
PL1:
For the Supers (+ Zippyys + trigger sticks . . .), I use Paradise Arcade's LS-32 upgrade kit switches.
They have a much softer and quieter throw than the original switches.
Only downside I've noticed is if you release the stick while pushing in one direction, it will register a momentary blip in the other direction when the stick passes thru center and hits the other switch. :dunno
Scott
rCadeGaming:
--- Quote from: AndyWarne on September 22, 2013, 04:56:03 am ---Then, no further transitions of the SAME switch are reported for another 40 milliseconds or so.
--- End quote ---
Andy, I've been lookingn closer into this, and.. is this a typo!? Do you mean 40 microseconds here?
I wrote something up with an Arduino that reads a single button at high speed and reports state changes back over the serial monitor on the computer. I've been using it to measure bouncing, as well as trying different debouncing methods and timings. It runs at around 58kHz polling rate, so it's pretty accurate. Anyhow, some of my findings agree with the article I linked to. No quality microswitch bounces for more than a few milliseconds.
Anyhow, ignoring state changes for 40 milliseconds means ignoring new states for two and a half frames of video at 60Hz. There are plenty of games in MAME which will accept new states every single frame, and in fact it's needed for certain things, like achieving the maximum firing in rate in some shmups. This is easy to do with a turbo function triggered by the vertical sync pulse, so long as the encoder will allow it.
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