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ami-man's advice on Rowe Ami jukeboxes

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Old Guy:
Ken,
If I decide to check the driver/preamp boards would it be safe to use the amp from my R89?  It's a 6-09931-02 130W amp.  The amp from my R90 is a 6-07438-06 125W amp.  Should I be able to isolate which board(s) is/are bad by doing this one-at-a-time exchange?

Thanks for your help.

Ken Layton:
Alan Hood ("ami-man" ) has moved to this jukebox forum:

https://jukeboxaddicts.proboards.com/

He can help with your questions. It's been so long since I last worked on a 45 Rowe, I don't remember which amplifiers have which connectors and which amplifiers interchange.

phesson:
Hello,
This is Paul in Southern Ohio.
I have a Rowe CD100-A. The fluorescent light in the door flickers. I changed the starters but the flickering is getting worse. What is a suitable replacement for the ballasts? Can these be rebuilt?
Thanks

Ken Layton:
An old fluorescent tube will flicker before it burns out. Sometimes you can get a bad tube out of a batch (especially made in China tubes) or if the ambient temperature is below 60 degrees, a tube will flicker.

lilshawn:
99% of the time it's the tube. if you take it out i'll bet you find the ends are dark on it. the tube electrodes are worn out and no longer emit charged particles properly to fire up the tube.

the only time you need to replace the ballast is if you've run a bad flickery tube in it for an extended amount of time. (i'm talking weeks here) they cannot be "rebuilt" and must be replaced. by this point since you would have to hack out the ballast anyways, it's a perfect time to rewire it for some LED tube replacements.

if you are still set on fluorescent, know you might have an issue finding supply, as they have fallen greatly out of favor in some places making replacements almost impossible to find...and only moreso in the future due to their use of mercury and phosphor.

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