Best method for creating a fully disassemblable cab?

[Seith]

Hi all, I'm new to woodworking.

Has anyone attempted building a cab that was capable of full disassembly while still being sturdy enough to play on?  What methods are available to someone who is interested in building a cab this way that won't result in a wobbly cab or something that can't support the weight of a CRT?

[BobA]

Look up knock down connectors at a hardware supplier in your area.   Not a big box hd or lowes but a real supplier of hardware such as lee valley.

Look for connectors such as these.

Connectors

[elkameleon]

You'll need some pretty accurate jigs for connectors like that, or your panels will never line up properly, other than that, great idea!

[Woodshop Flunky]

Rockler also has knock down hardware...

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2334&filter=cam%20bolts

And a jig for taking SOME of the guesswork out...

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=337&rrt=1

elkameleon is right, though, you'll need to invest some time in jigs or fixtures... or do some really impressive layout.  If I were doing it, I'd make a couple of jigs that would allow me to accurately repeat all the steps.

[Seith]

actually this was exactly what i was thinking of!  thank you guys.  has anyone had experience using these in an upright?  is there a way to do this that will result in a rigid wobble-free CRT cab, or does using these as fastening methods invite the shifts and shakes when playing?

[kahlid74]

I would be worried about what type of monitor you'd be using in a cab build on connectores of those types.  If you've ever built a home entertainment credenza or cheap desks you'll know what I'm talking about.  The stability doesn't come from the connectors themselves but from the cardboard fold out you nail into the back of every piece.  If you were using a tube monitor I would be very worried about stability and collapsing.

What about just building a modular Cab?  Something that comes apart into 3-5 pieces and is held together with 2-3" bolts and nuts?  It would be small enough to fit through any door and the bolts/nuts would be plenty strong enough to support all of the weight you'd think about having.

[Seith]

The problem i'm having is that, even as a modular cab, the width of the smallest dimension is just slightly too wide to fit down the stairwell I am bringing it down.  Which wouldn't be a problem if I had plans to live where I do forever.  Maybe the next step is to decase the TV and bring the sides of the cab in even more.

[BobA]

Download the manual for the Ultimate II cab and you will see what is involved to build the full knockdown unit.  It also has a separate manual for the monitor mounts.  If you read their reviews on this forum I do not think their cabs have any problem with wobble due to the number of fasteners in use.   Bookshelves and desks are not built for strength.

UAII Link

Project 1
Project 2
Project 3

Apologies to any I missed.

[kahlid74]

 If you read their reviews on this forum I do not think their cabs have any problem with wobble due to the number of fasteners in use.   Bookshelves and desks are not built for strength.

True true.  I think I was more speaking from a building it yourself versus one someone has actually engineered as a product.

[yaksplat]

I'd go with threaded inserts instead.  Nice heavy bolts.

http://yaksplat.wordpress.com/2011/12/14/joystick-mounting-with-inserts/

They come in all sizes too.

[Woodshop Flunky]

These cam bolts will produce a very strong cab, as well as using threaded inserts.

The biggest issue you are going to have will be getting parts that mate correctly.  Neither of these fasteners will allow much room for error when you try to mate a vertical piece with a horizontal.

Two things have to get done:
1. You will need to locate connector positions on one part.  This is no problem, you can locate the connectors wherever it works out for your design.
2. Now things get trickier, you need to either locate the same pattern on the mating piece, or you need to transfer the pattern to the mating piece.

This second step is not trivial if for no other reason but the number of connectors used in a build.  Locating and laying out the same pattern on a mating piece is difficult because you are not using the same reference edges (prone to human error).  Transferring the pattern will involve securing the two mating pieces such that you can transfer the pattern.

This is why it was mentioned earlier about jigs and fixtures.

If I were wanting a cab that could be disassembled, I would focus more on the side panels and the battens.  Design your cab so that the side panels have battens that each horizontal member connects to.  Basically, you screw all your horizontal members to the battens (using screws, but no glue), supported by the vertical sides.  Once you attach the back, the cab will be secure in all 3 planes.  You don't have to put a screw every inch, but if you aren't stingy with the screws, you'll need a sledge hammer to break the thing apart.  It won't be a quick assembly/dis-assembly, and the screws will wear and be prone to stripping if you break it down once a month.  But, if your only going to break it down to possibly get it out of the basement once in it's life you should have no problems.

[yaksplat]

I have my control panel attached to the cab with threaded inserts.  The inserts are drilled into the edge of the ply and are extremely strong.  The good thing with the inserts is that you do get wiggle room on the joining piece.  You are able to drill a larger hole and use a washer underneath the screw.  The best bet is to drill the two pieces simultaneously and have the same size hole in the mating pieces, but there's nothing wrong with making a larger hole and using a washer and lock washer to cover any slop.

[Seith]

If I were wanting a cab that could be disassembled, I would focus more on the side panels and the battens.  Design your cab so that the side panels have battens that each horizontal member connects to.  Basically, you screw all your horizontal members to the battens (using screws, but no glue), supported by the vertical sides.  Once you attach the back, the cab will be secure in all 3 planes.  You don't have to put a screw every inch, but if you aren't stingy with the screws, you'll need a sledge hammer to break the thing apart.  It won't be a quick assembly/dis-assembly, and the screws will wear and be prone to stripping if you break it down once a month.  But, if your only going to break it down to possibly get it out of the basement once in it's life you should have no problems.

This sounds like wonderful advice.  I am planning on using laminate on the sides, so I should be able to get away with drilling sinkholes on the outside surface for the screws to go through and hold the battens on the inside, then cover the screwheads from showing with the laminate, right?

[Woodshop Flunky]

I am planning on using laminate on the sides, so I should be able to get away with drilling sinkholes on the outside surface for the screws to go through and hold the battens on the inside, then cover the screwheads from showing with the laminate, right?

I did that on my cab... attached the battens from the outside with countersunk through holes, and then covered the whole thing with laminate.  Others here have done the same thing, and I think you end up with a really strong side.

...  The inserts are drilled into the edge of the ply and are extremely strong.

That's good to know about the threaded inserts in the edge of plywood.  I've had 1/2 ply split when I've tried putting other fasteners in the edge, so I haven't tried it with the inserts.