Hacked a 27" RCA TV Tube to work with Wei-Ya Chasis, mounting?

[Numbski]

The tube obviously does not have a monitor frame.  It was screwed into the plastic housing of the TV which is, sadly - long, long gone.

I currently have a WG 25" with it's frame in the cabinet.  Seems like I need 4 angle brackets to screw into the 4 corners of my arcade cab's opening to bolt the tube to, but I have no idea where to locate such a beast.  I suppose I could cut 4 hardwood triangles and drill holes in them, but I don't know that they'd be beefy enough to handles the monitor's weight...?

Ideas?  Is there an adjustable tube frame solution out there?

[lilshawn]

a couple of strips of plywood should work just fine.

just screw them across the original brackets or wherever you need them to be.

you can then use some screws and washers to screw down the tube to the plywood.

[boardjunkie]

What exactly did you do to make the Sony tube work with a chassis other than what its s'posed to be run with? Trinitrons are kinda thier own animal as far as tube and support circuitry go....

[Razzer]

The tube obviously does not have a monitor frame.  It was screwed into the plastic housing of the TV which is, sadly - long, long gone.

I currently have a WG 25" with it's frame in the cabinet.  Seems like I need 4 angle brackets to screw into the 4 corners of my arcade cab's opening to bolt the tube to, but I have no idea where to locate such a beast.  I suppose I could cut 4 hardwood triangles and drill holes in them, but I don't know that they'd be beefy enough to handles the monitor's weight...?

Ideas?  Is there an adjustable tube frame solution out there?

Here's how i did it: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=105653.msg1129958#msg1129958

Razzer

[Numbski]

It's been about 3 years since I did the hack.  Maybe I'm lying about the TV make? 

I added a resistor to the back of the tube and bought an arcade board, re-wired the yoke and that was that.  Gave me a beautiful picture, but not a clear way to get it into the cabinet.

I'm thinking that based off of what you guys are showing me, I might be able to screw+glue a 2x4 onto either side of the cab's insides, and after the glue is good and cured, put the tube in and just lag screw the tube (with washers) to the 2x4's?  I'll try to remember to get some pictures tonight.  I know I have existing pictures floating around the internet - I'll see if any are without the plexi and bezel to where it can be seen what I'm dealing with.

[Numbski]

Here's the one I uploaded to BYOAC's wiki.  Kinda dark though:



It's existing monitor is a WG, and the frame is a particle board base, and then two steel uprights.  There was no way that I could see to re-use those uprights, and the tube's screw-down points are off at an angle to where I'd need some sort of angled brace to get at them.  It's the reason I'm dubious that the 2x4 method will work.

[lilshawn]

It's been about 3 years since I did the hack.  Maybe I'm lying about the TV make? 

I added a resistor to the back of the tube and bought an arcade board, re-wired the yoke and that was that.  Gave me a beautiful picture, but not a clear way to get it into the cabinet.

sounds like you modded the yoke to work with the chassis. not a bad way to do it, but there are better ways. if it runs and it's stable, and the hrizontal transistor isn't blowing or running hot, it should be good.

I'm thinking that based off of what you guys are showing me, I might be able to screw+glue a 2x4 onto either side of the cab's insides, and after the glue is good and cured, put the tube in and just lag screw the tube (with washers) to the 2x4's?  I'll try to remember to get some pictures tonight.  I know I have existing pictures floating around the internet - I'll see if any are without the plexi and bezel to where it can be seen what I'm dealing with.

just be sure to leave enough space between the monitor glass and the monitor plexi/glass you don't want them rubbing or knocking together.

[Numbski]

Took some more pictures when I got home.  I was wrong - it was an RCA TV, not a Sony TV, but I digress...



If that cardboard tube were a 2x4, the problem becomes pretty obvious.  I really need some sort of corner braces. 

As for the hack, I bought a Wei-Ya chasis and did this little hack to the yoke:



Any more ideas?

[Numbski]

BTW - here's the type of mount I have for the old monitor:

[lilshawn]

Took some more pictures when I got home.  I was wrong - it was an RCA TV, not a Sony TV, but I digress...



If that cardboard tube were a 2x4, the problem becomes pretty obvious.  I really need some sort of corner braces. 

i wouldn't use any sort of solid wood, or particle board, honest to goodness plywood (the kind with several layers visible on the cut edge)

and yes, you just trace the outline of the tube and cut it out. "notch" if you will. lay the tube face down on the plywood strip and run a pencil down the side from mount to mount. then just cut it out with your choice of saw....ideally one that can cut a slight curve.

[Woodshop Flunky]

i wouldn't use any sort of solid wood, or particle board, honest to goodness plywood (the kind with several layers visible on the cut edge)

and yes, you just trace the outline of the tube and cut it out. "notch" if you will. lay the tube face down on the plywood strip and run a pencil down the side from mount to mount. then just cut it out with your choice of saw....ideally one that can cut a slight curve.

I agree, plywood (the more plys the better) will be plenty strong enough to hold the monitor.

[Numbski]

Any suggestions on how to affix this now-really-freaking-heavy sheet of plywood into the cab itself?  There's not going to be much of a plywood "rim" once I'm done.  Back to my original idea of the glued-and-screwed 2x4's to the insides of the cab and attach it that way?  Or do I try to emulate the type of frame I had before and build a base and sides and put the Wei-Ya Chasis on it?  I'm thinking if I go that route this is doing to be one heck of a tight fit.  On the plus side, I can test-fit the monitor without actually hefting the monitor around.  Just afraid of the pressure I'd be putting on any potential joints with that tube.

[Numbski]

To give you an idea:

Arcade Cabinet opening at it's narrowest points: 26.5x19.75
Tube at it's widest points (mounting tabs):  24.5x19.5

Side to side I'll have an inch on each side beyond the mounting tabs.  Top and bottom (don't suppose it matters) I'll only have 1/8 to play with.  Building a full frame seems like doing it the hard way, but I have no idea what the "easy" way would be.

[Woodshop Flunky]

To give you an idea:

Arcade Cabinet opening at it's narrowest points: 26.5x19.75
Tube at it's widest points (mounting tabs):  24.5x19.5

Side to side I'll have an inch on each side beyond the mounting tabs.  Top and bottom (don't suppose it matters) I'll only have 1/8 to play with.  Building a full frame seems like doing it the hard way, but I have no idea what the "easy" way would be.

If your measurments include the mounting tabs then you should have enough space to make a plywood board that you can screw the monitor onto.  Then you would have to  mount the plywood board to the cabinet.

Looks like this guy did that sort of thing...

[Numbski]

Right - it does include the tabs.  My question was more along the lines of "how do I do that"?  I'm having a hard time visualizing how to affix the plywood to the cabinet.

Ideally the monitor still needs to be removable, as the cabinet currently lives in my basement and will someday need to venture out into the world when I move.  Removing the control panel and monitor right now is the only thing that makes the task bearable.

EDIT - Duh, the tube can still come out of the plywood. :\

[Numbski]

Sorry about the flash and over-exposure in these.  Stupid iphone camera...



Basically, there's nothing across the top to support this.  Whatever I do, it will have to be along the sides.  I said above that I'll have about an inch between the mounting tabs and cabinet's side at it's narrowest point.  I also measured  the hole in the tabs to be 1/2 inch.  The "narrowest point" is a strip that appears to be stapled into place on the inside, presumably to hold the original plexi in place (which is long gone, I might add).  If I took a pry bar to that, it would buy me another 1/4 inch or so.  I could then measure off precisely where the plane is that I want the monitor to sit and perhaps glue+screw a 2x4 support on either side, then in turn mount my rim to that?  The bottom can be supported on the "shelf" that the current monitor frame sits on.  In fact, I could put a similar "stop strip" on the bottom that's comparably thin (would have to be about 1/8 inch) and that way this rim is supported on 3 sides.  Here's a few more over-exposed and flashed-out shots:





Now here's another problem I'll have to address:



Will have to extend the back of the cab a bit to accommodate the neck.  Not a big deal, I'll just build an extending rim out the access door. 

[boardjunkie]

Careful with those spkrs so close to the tube. You (and everyone else) really should be using magnetically shielded spkrs for that. Otherwise the large magnets will pull the beams out of aligment and semi-permanantly magnetise the metal parts around the tube and frame, causing color blotches that will stay there until the speakers are removed and the monitor demagnetised....

[Numbski]

Will try to keep that in mind.  Thanks.

[MKFan4Life]

Will try to keep that in mind.  Thanks.

Did you ever get this particular monitor mounted and how did you do it if so?  I have the same type frame and particle board chassis base on the WG monitor I have from a Street Fighter cabinet that I am going to try to mount into an old Strata Bowling cabinet that I've removed a 19" vertically mounted monitor from.  Needless to say, it'll be an extreme squeeze as I have less play on each side than you had here.  (Maybe 1/4" on each side, and that's just tube clearance!)  But I am going to make it work somehow, lol.