Author Topic: Donkey Kong Monitor Issues (Read 10676 times)

calz · « **on:** November 02, 2011, 11:31:26 am »

Hi All -

Picked up a DK and seeing some issues with the monitor. Anyone seen this before? Wondering if I need a new monitor or cap kit?

Thanks,

Chris

lilshawn · « **Reply #1 on:** November 03, 2011, 03:31:20 pm »

is that ONLY what it displays? or does it show that over top of the game video?

calz · « **Reply #2 on:** November 03, 2011, 04:02:02 pm »

I can barley see the game moving under this screen... can hear sounds and game seems to runs fine. Only see very light ghosts underneath this screen.

mgb · « **Reply #3 on:** November 03, 2011, 11:03:19 pm »

Quote from: calz_01 on November 03, 2011, 04:02:02 pm

....Only see very light ghosts underneath this screen.

Theres your problem, you're seeing pacman, there are no ghosts in Donkey Kong.... Just Kidding.
A cap kit should most likely be done. also check and adjust the b+ voltage (should be 108vdc).
You can get the Sanyo 20ez deluxe kit from Bob Roberts, it also includes the caps and transistors needed for the sound board.

calz · « **Reply #4 on:** November 04, 2011, 12:12:13 am »

haha... cool thanks. I've never done this before but will order and give a shot (and not sure how to adjust the b+ voltage). Will report status back here as well. Thanks for the help!

mgb · « **Reply #5 on:** November 04, 2011, 10:11:01 am »

Cap kits are relatively easy, you just need to know some basic things.
There is a lot of good information on the web.
Do research and you'll be fine.
There is a pin to meter your b+ voltage at and there is a pot for adjustin it below. Just beware that the pot used for adjusting B+ is set with a little glue and that pot is fragile and easily broken. When you get the cap kit, you may also wanna order a sanyo 20ez b+ pot (also from Bob Roberts) its a 5k pot.

calz · « **Reply #6 on:** November 05, 2011, 12:15:09 pm »

Cool. Did some research and does not look that bad... only scary thing is the discharge. Ordered the parts and we'll see how it goes :-). One fear that I have is not knowing if there is screen burn-in based on the current picture, and if I fix will be time wasted. I think this machine came from a bowling alley and my goal is to restore it to tip top shape for the collection. Thanks again for the help!

mgb · « **Reply #7 on:** November 06, 2011, 12:58:40 am »

alot of guys woory about the first discharge, but don't worry. Its hardly as bad as some think it will be.

calz · « **Reply #8 on:** December 03, 2011, 11:52:41 pm »

OK, so I have the cap kit now, built the screwdriver tool for discharge, and attempted to do this tonight. When I touch the screwdriver to the piece under the anode I did not hear a pop or see sparks or anything... have not turned the game on in a few weeks, so wondering if it discharged itself? How can I know for sure that I am not going to get zapped pulling the anode off

mgb · « **Reply #9 on:** December 04, 2011, 06:44:53 pm »

Alot of times, you won't hear anything. You'll really never see sparks or anything. Usually the most you'll hear is a small pop. I would try discharging a couple of times. The second anode actually clips into the hole, so use the discharge tool to unclip it. The monitors do discharge over time, so the fact that you had the monitor off for a while should explain why you had no pop but its always best to be safe.

lilshawn · « **Reply #10 on:** December 05, 2011, 11:21:38 pm »

most modern flybacks (since pretty much the 80's) have a resistor network in them that bleeds off excess voltage.

unless your unit is old (pre 80's), the tube especially large (27, 30, 33"), or the flyback is damaged or compromised...

leaving the unit off for a few hours is often enough to get rid of the buildup in the tube.

yes, i said tube. It's not the electronics you have to worry about, it's the tube. it's construction is similar to a capacitor... a very high voltage, low capacity capacitor. google up yourself a set of plans to build a Leyden jar, then take a look at how a tube is constructed, they have more in common then you would think.

in closing, no. i don't know where you put your keys... oh right, no, you won't get zapped. but as an extra precaution, before you place the anode cap back on the bellybutton, hook up your discharge rig and touch the bellybutton to discharge it again, sometimes the charge starts to leak out of the glass and the tube builds up a bit of a charge again. then go ahead and snap the cup back on again.

Pro tip: turn the suction cup inside out and use it as a handle to clip the legs of the clip into the bellybutton.

calz · « **Reply #11 on:** December 22, 2011, 11:37:23 pm »

Thanks for the help guys. I FINALLY got this off (and lived)... started the cap kit yesterday. Was moving along fine until I hit C162... being anal, I thought I had some solder drip, and sucked it up and redid... now the solder won't take on either off the holes... thinking I messed up the board now

... I don't think there is any metal for the solder to ahere too. Thoughts?

mrazy1 · « **Reply #12 on:** December 22, 2011, 11:54:01 pm »

Sounds like you sucked up the solder point around the hole..where the cap wires go. If so, Place the cap in the whole like you are going to solder it in. Find the nearest solder point where another component that is connected to that cap. come Thur the board and solder you cap wire to it making sure the wire isn't touching any other points. If your wire is too short you cant scrape the trace line next to the hole of the cap. and solder it there. either case I would Silicon that after soldiering.

calz · « **Reply #13 on:** December 23, 2011, 12:18:20 am »

Quote from: mrazy1 on December 22, 2011, 11:54:01 pm

Sounds like you sucked up the solder point around the hole..where the cap wires go. If so, Place the cap in the whole like you are going to solder it in. Find the nearest solder point where another component that is connected to that cap. come Thur the board and solder you cap wire to it making sure the wire isn't touching any other points. If your wire is too short you cant scrape the trace line next to the hole of the cap. and solder it there. either case I would Silicon that after soldiering.

Genius... awesome idea... thanks! I am a big amateur, and this is my first cap kit. So I can just solder this to another point that is closest to this one? I think that was the problem I was trying to solve, being that I did not know what I was doing… I thought I read that you needed to keep them from not touching other points so this is great. Can I do this to any point that is closest to this one even if it is already soldered? Just join them together? Sorry for the dumb questions… appreciate the help.

* Also forgot to mention this is the only non-polarity cap that I was replacing. I believe all off the others are P.

mrazy1 · « **Reply #14 on:** December 23, 2011, 12:41:04 am »

Well I know I didn't really explain it well. I was hoping someone else would had piped in.

If the trace line (traceline is the shiny lines running all over the back of the board going from one solder hole to the next) from that hole goes to another component You can just solder it to that component lead adding a little more solder to support the extra wire that is being added. The problem is that the wire can get moved and cause a cold solder connection so I glue down the wire, not the solder point, with silicone.

If youhave to go between other solder points that are not part of the traceline or component. then you have to protect that wire from touching those points.. You can use shrink tubing or black electrical tape. I believe in the industry they call this jumpering. Merry CHRIST-mas I pray I answered all your concerns..

There is not dumb questions other then the one you dont ask. The unasked question are the one that causes problems. LOL I tell that to my kid.. But sometime we do not always know what question to ask.

calz · « **Reply #15 on:** December 23, 2011, 12:59:07 am »

Thanks for the excellent advice. I'lll give this a shot and see what happens... I was already out board shopping :-). Thanks again and have a GREAT holiday!

calz · « **Reply #16 on:** December 23, 2011, 11:04:25 am »

OK, so I took a look at the board and counld not figure out where I could solder this to. There does not seem to be any visible lines that I can tell where the next one is going to... There are other solder points close by but I am unsure if they are in the same path as this one.

mgb · « **Reply #17 on:** December 23, 2011, 05:27:32 pm »

In this case its best to check the schematics. According to the 20ez schematic, one side of C162 goes to pin 23 of IC401 and the other side to R162.
heres the schematic http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/Sanyo_%2020-EZV_(R-B)_Model_31_(1981-3-25).pdf

calz · « **Reply #18 on:** December 23, 2011, 07:57:05 pm »

Quote from: mgb on December 23, 2011, 05:27:32 pm

In this case its best to check the schematics. According to the 20ez schematic, one side of C162 goes to pin 23 of IC401 and the other side to R162.
heres the schematic http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/Sanyo_%2020-EZV_(R-B)_Model_31_(1981-3-25).pdf

Thank you. This helps a lot. Looks like the C162 capacitor wire will not reach over to IC401. The other side does reach R162 no problem. Would I need to run a wire or something and solder it to pin 23?

mgb · « **Reply #19 on:** December 23, 2011, 10:10:59 pm »

Yeah You'd need to use a small piece of hook up wire. A small piece of cat5 would do. It may be best to see if there is a better place to intercept the trace coming from ic401 23 as it may be a pain soldering to the pin.

calz · « **Reply #20 on:** December 24, 2011, 11:16:07 am »

Quote from: mgb on December 23, 2011, 10:10:59 pm

Yeah You'd need to use a small piece of hook up wire. A small piece of cat5 would do. It may be best to see if there is a better place to intercept the trace coming from ic401 23 as it may be a pain soldering to the pin.

Thanks, yeah, I noticed that too... 23 is tiny and not sure how I would even do that. Sorry for the ignorance, but looking at the schematic I cannot determine another soldering point to use for this. Anyone have any ideas?

mgb · « **Reply #21 on:** December 24, 2011, 04:55:00 pm »

Can't you just locate the trace where it would meet the solder pad, scratch off the green covering and solder the cap lead to that.
You should be able to do both connections from under the board (solder side).
I see that the connection to r162 is easy because its right next to it but also looking at the bottom of the board, you can see the traces.
If you're in doubt of having the correct trace, just meter it back to pin 23 and you should be good.
By doing this on the under side of the board, you should be able to not even have to use any small pieces of wire and you could just use the cap legs.

calz · « **Reply #22 on:** December 24, 2011, 11:51:34 pm »

Quote from: mgb on December 24, 2011, 04:55:00 pm

Can't you just locate the trace where it would meet the solder pad, scratch off the green covering and solder the cap lead to that.
You should be able to do both connections from under the board (solder side).
I see that the connection to r162 is easy because its right next to it but also looking at the bottom of the board, you can see the traces.
If you're in doubt of having the correct trace, just meter it back to pin 23 and you should be good.
By doing this on the under side of the board, you should be able to not even have to use any small pieces of wire and you could just use the cap legs.

Cool. Thanks makes sense. This is my first time doing this so was not aware that could be done. Thanks a ton for the advice. BTW - this looks much worse in a picture but also shows what a hack I was on this one

.

lilshawn · « **Reply #23 on:** December 24, 2011, 11:55:56 pm »

looks like your soldering rig is WAY too hot.

you wouldn't by chance be using something like this would you??

http://www.elexp.com/solder/D650.jpg

calz · « **Reply #24 on:** December 25, 2011, 12:16:12 am »

haha, not using that one (although I do have one of these), but did notice the one I was using was way too hot. It was this one:
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=soldering+iron&um=1&hl=en&sa=N&biw=1280&bih=569&tbm=isch&tbnid=EqfOSusosXmHvM:&imgrefurl=http://science.howstuffworks.com/cold-heat1.htm&docid=msIxinP6ObjgCM&imgurl=http://static.ddmcdn.com/gif/cold-heat-20.jpg&w=400&h=281&ei=trD2TpGTNoTu0gHG8PWqAg&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=109&sig=110397422388583248480&page=1&tbnh=158&tbnw=220&start=0&ndsp=10&ved=1t:429,r:2,s:0&tx=143&ty=25

But I went out today and got this adjustable one:
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=soldering+iron&um=1&hl=en&sa=N&biw=1280&bih=569&tbm=isch&tbnid=EcNjIATmc6kErM:&imgrefurl=http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/remotes-cables-accessories-tweaks/13000-how-solder-illustrated-diy-guide-making-your-own-cables.html&docid=2897mTZ4WWXOSM&imgurl=http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/attachments/remotes-cables-accessories-tweaks/9378d1221665305-how-solder-illustrated-diy-guide-making-your-own-cables-wlc100-soldering-station.jpg&w=650&h=426&ei=trD2TpGTNoTu0gHG8PWqAg&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=140&sig=110397422388583248480&page=2&tbnh=147&tbnw=224&start=10&ndsp=10&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:10&tx=114&ty=98

mrazy1 · « **Reply #25 on:** December 25, 2011, 02:23:54 am »

Haha I use the big one myself LOL. But the ones that dont get hot enough can cause that too. If you have to hold the iron on there for a long time to desolder then You will over heat the trace and mess up the board. I do use the big iron for desoldering and soldering. I use the a brasswick too which makes a differents and I can show you pictures of my work I have done and you cant tell I use a big iron like that one lilshawn posted LOL. but I am also a NASA certified solder and know when and how to solder. BUT that experience.

mgb · « **Reply #26 on:** December 25, 2011, 10:33:12 am »

I use a 40 watt desolder tool. I can never seesm to get good results with a wick. And I use a small 15 watt iron for most soldering. I also use a butane iron for heavier stuff, its also what I use at work. Those adjustable units are very nice. I never seem to have much money when I need an iron so instead I buy cheaper ones, but I need them to be pretty portable because most of my work is done at peoples houses

calz · « **Reply #27 on:** December 25, 2011, 03:02:15 pm »

So the new soldering iron with adjustable heat is key... huge difference. I feel stupid for using the other one now. I cranked out a bunch of the other caps very cleanly with the new kit. Also, bit the bullet and ran a wire from C162 to IC401/23. Will post back either smoke or game play depending on the results :-). Thanks a ton for all of the help and suggestions.

mgb · « **Reply #28 on:** December 25, 2011, 09:43:45 pm »

You live and you learn. The real mistake would be if you didn't learn from it.
I hope all works out well.
Remember to adjust your B+ voltage to 108 volts after finishing the cap kit

mrazy1 · « **Reply #29 on:** December 26, 2011, 02:47:46 pm »

mgb I hear you there would like the soldering unit I had back in the day. Weller like calz_01 has but with the temp. posted.. so you knew what temp you was at. 40 watt isn't hot enough for wick. 60 or more is. with wick you heat up the wick more and since the solder need less heat it doesn't heat up the trace pad. I get great results. The problem with a sucker,I think, they dont always suck up all the solder the first time. you are always cleaning them out and burning up the tips. Adding heat directly to the pad and pin I think heats up the solder pad more and will cause it to lift more often then not BUT each to there own. We all have to figure out what works best for us.

Calz_1 I think you are doing a great job there looks good. cant wait to hear what the results are. GOD BLESS

calz · « **Reply #30 on:** December 26, 2011, 04:22:16 pm »

Thanks. I don't care for the solder sucker but could not find anything else in stock around here that would work as well. I have had to do this several times though to get the solder up which is pain.

So... I finished this up... all of the rest of the caps went in good. Put all back together, powered on and get a blank screen

. I can hear the power, but don't even hear the sounds or anything. Sounds like it is toally dead now. Before I did the cap kit the machine would boot, I could hear sound, but the screen looked like I first posted. Now nothing. Not sure what to look at next.... would just the monitor affect the rest of the machine booting and me being able to hear any sounds or anything? *frustrated*

mgb · « **Reply #31 on:** December 26, 2011, 09:02:54 pm »

I'm sorry to hear that.
So the machine doesn't play blind or anything?
I'm not sure, is the main power fused and maybe the monitor blew the main power fuse somehow?

calz · « **Reply #32 on:** December 26, 2011, 09:36:25 pm »

Well if anything this has been a great learning experience :-). I was hearing power from the supply so did not think fuse and just checked it with my multi-meter and it is OK. But.... I saw there was a fuse on the monitor board and pulled that out for a test. It is no good, so I'll need to replace. Wondering if my cack job did something to trigger this or it got damaged when I moved it into my downstairs. I don't hear any sounds and cannot play blind so not sure what is up with that, unless it is tied to this. Hopefully I can get one of these fuses at Radio Shack or somewhere. Thanks again for the help an suggestions.

*Edit - also noticed that there is another fuse on the monitor board. Checked that one and it was fine as well. The one in question is labeled DC300MA on the circuit board.

mrazy1 · « **Reply #33 on:** December 26, 2011, 11:07:43 pm »

Sorry to hear that. so after the cap kit now you got nothing

and now you have blown fuses...

if you blow more fuses on the monitor let us know.. could be that if it blows the fuse and the game doesn't play that that fuse is part of the PCB to that part of the monitor also that is bad.. and if bad then I would check EVERYthing over real good. Make sure everything got put in the right way and everything is connect right. other then that I dint know... Cap kit shouldn't have made it worse.

mgb · « **Reply #34 on:** December 27, 2011, 09:54:33 am »

For some reason I didn't think of it before, but its doubtful your game boards are affected by something botched up on the monitor. The game may very well be playing blind but you can't hear it because the sound board is on the monitor.

calz · « **Reply #35 on:** December 27, 2011, 01:27:24 pm »

OK, some good news. I went and got new fuses this morning, installed, and can now see and hear gameplay - phew - THANKS for the advice. The monitor turns on as well, but the picture is very garbled. I tried some of the monitor adjustments but did not clear it up... sorry for all of the questions/problems about this

.

calz · « **Reply #36 on:** December 27, 2011, 09:57:58 pm »

- messed with the monitor adjustments to no avail... can not get the picture to come up clean and wondering if this is a cold solder or something. Going to pull out the monitor board again (and discharge

) to see if I can find anything.

lilshawn · « **Reply #37 on:** December 27, 2011, 10:45:45 pm »

is this garbage moving around really fast or is it stopped?

i would check the sync and ground lines first anyways.

i would also pull the board and check around where you where soldering for maybe a drip or a drop of solder bridging something it's not supposed to.

also since you where messing around that vert IC maybe there is a bridge or something going on there.

mgb · « **Reply #38 on:** December 27, 2011, 11:05:23 pm »

Also, while I doubt its causing the problem you are currently looking at, but make sure to check and adjust the b+ voltage to 108 volt dc.

mrazy1 · « **Reply #39 on:** December 28, 2011, 12:15:25 am »

Yea this looks like a sync problem. I would answer the questions Lilshawn asked and do.but I would also Check video plug. wiggle it to see if it clears up or stay the same. play with the Plug at the PCB. Check ground wire. before pulling monitor out.

calz · « **Reply #40 on:** December 28, 2011, 02:04:13 pm »

Checked all of the wires and moved stuff around with no affect. Thinking it has to be something with either the wire I ran due to the board burning or maybe a cold solder. I did triple check everything before reinstalling though. This is the best I can get it to look by messing around with the adjustments:

So looks like I'll have to discharge again... this is the tool I made to do this:

mrazy1 · « **Reply #41 on:** December 29, 2011, 01:37:03 am »

Ok I think I found your problem.. I was looking at the pictures you sent and the schematic. I noticed on the schematic that the cap was connected to pin 23 and the other end to r162 but then goes to r221and r220. To me this doesnt make since. Why are would you want to clamp down the gained amp sign before you clean up the signal???.. NO... you wouldnt get the gain you wanted.. but this circuit doesnt make since anyway. I noticed that that pin isnt connect... on some monitors... Why because why would you need to Amp. the sync again??? but that what that circuit does... for whatever reason. So looking at the pictures you sent. I was right (PLEASE LOOK AT PICTURES) Blowing up your pictures I can see the trace lines(Light Green) and I can see where pin 23 goes. it goes to r162 first.. Well that make since to me, limit the current after you clean out the DC. So just do what i have written on the picture and I think you will be good. I will be honest here but I THINK its right. I THINK the positive side of the cap goes to r162 and the negitive side goes to r221 r220 which is the jumper wire that go to both those resistors.. Maybe someone that has this type of monitor can help here. I do know the schematic is WRONG...

lilshawn · « **Reply #42 on:** December 29, 2011, 01:53:27 am »

yeah, it's hard to tell, but i think he's right.

there is a lot of extra flux on the board there covering up the track so it's hard to see. but, it does look like that wire you have jumperd there shouldn't be there... you are bypassing the resistor.

calz · « **Reply #43 on:** December 29, 2011, 03:46:51 pm »

Quote from: mrazy1 on December 29, 2011, 01:37:03 am

Ok I think I found your problem.. I was looking at the pictures you sent and the schematic. I noticed on the schematic that the cap was connected to pin 23 and the other end to r162 but then goes to r221and r220. To me this doesnt make since. Why are would you want to clamp down the gained amp sign before you clean up the signal???.. NO... you wouldnt get the gain you wanted.. but this circuit doesnt make since anyway. I noticed that that pin isnt connect... on some monitors... Why because why would you need to Amp. the sync again??? but that what that circuit does... for whatever reason. So looking at the pictures you sent. I was right (PLEASE LOOK AT PICTURES) Blowing up your pictures I can see the trace lines(Light Green) and I can see where pin 23 goes. it goes to r162 first.. Well that make since to me, limit the current after you clean out the DC. So just do what i have written on the picture and I think you will be good. I will be honest here but I THINK its right. I THINK the positive side of the cap goes to r162 and the negitive side goes to r221 r220 which is the jumper wire that go to both those resistors.. Maybe someone that has this type of monitor can help here. I do know the schematic is WRONG...

Thanks! Excellent information! I am going to pull this out tonight and give a shot at what you suggest. I started to last night but turned chicken before the discharge and decided to give another day :-). I also noticed that my power cord is missing the ground terminal and bought a new power cord today to fix.. any chance this could be causing the problem as well?

lilshawn · « **Reply #44 on:** December 29, 2011, 03:58:28 pm »

Quote from: calz on December 29, 2011, 03:46:51 pm

Quote from: mrazy1 on December 29, 2011, 01:37:03 am
Ok I think I found your problem.. I was looking at the pictures you sent and the schematic. I noticed on the schematic that the cap was connected to pin 23 and the other end to r162 but then goes to r221and r220. To me this doesnt make since. Why are would you want to clamp down the gained amp sign before you clean up the signal???.. NO... you wouldnt get the gain you wanted.. but this circuit doesnt make since anyway. I noticed that that pin isnt connect... on some monitors... Why because why would you need to Amp. the sync again??? but that what that circuit does... for whatever reason. So looking at the pictures you sent. I was right (PLEASE LOOK AT PICTURES) Blowing up your pictures I can see the trace lines(Light Green) and I can see where pin 23 goes. it goes to r162 first.. Well that make since to me, limit the current after you clean out the DC. So just do what i have written on the picture and I think you will be good. I will be honest here but I THINK its right. I THINK the positive side of the cap goes to r162 and the negitive side goes to r221 r220 which is the jumper wire that go to both those resistors.. Maybe someone that has this type of monitor can help here. I do know the schematic is WRONG...

Thanks! Excellent information! I am going to pull this out tonight and give a shot at what you suggest. I started to last night but turned chicken before the discharge and decided to give another day :-). I also noticed that my power cord is missing the ground terminal and bought a new power cord today to fix.. any chance this could be causing the problem as well?

no, but ive seen weirder. don't worry yourself about the discharge. it's peanuts. It's no worse than getting punched in the arm by your friend if you happen to get shocked. iv'e done it a few times myself. it's not a great feeling and not something i try to do, but it happens...and usually when i get lazy and try and do shortcuts (not recomended)

doing it while it's on and powered on the other hand is something REALLY not recomended... and WILL kill you with 100% certainty.

calz · « **Reply #45 on:** December 29, 2011, 04:27:56 pm »

haha, thanks, that actually is reassuring. When I first took this out last time, I think it sat idle long enough where there was no charge so I was nervous about using the tool that I built for this... still am :-)

Also, from the pictures and comments from mrazy1... the C162 cap is non-polarized so there is no positive/negative from what I understand, so I am not understanding where to change things around now :-).

mrazy1 · « **Reply #46 on:** December 29, 2011, 04:41:06 pm »

Yea I been zapped a few times boy I tell yea it better then coffee....

But not recommended for daily use.....

Since it not polarized as the schematic show that it isn't but the symbol seems to indicate that it maybe a Special cap. (maybe ESR) but if the one you have for a replacement isn't then it doesn't matter which way it goes... just solder them in the way I posted in the picture and don't worry about the + or - signs I put there.. GOD BLESS

calz · « **Reply #47 on:** December 29, 2011, 06:42:06 pm »

haha, cool. So one verification.... Should I still use the wire or just solder these points together? From the pics looks like I can just solder them together? Also as luck would have it I found there is a pretty big arcade supplier close by and went and grabbed another cap kit. Also thinking my flamethrower might have damaged C162 as well :-).

mrazy1 · « **Reply #48 on:** December 30, 2011, 01:16:24 am »

Flamethrower??? Got a butane desolder??

That in the hands of a newbe is like child with a real flamethrower LOL. But hey learning right?? Yes on soldering cap wires to the those point. Remove wire... also if you can clean you board up a bit.. remove solder splatters and clean the flux off the board.. What are you using for solder anyway a cup of flux with soild solder??? I pray not,,, 60/40 is good LOL.

Ok You all think I am nut will here proof

Yes I use the BIG GUN LOL

calz · « **Reply #49 on:** December 30, 2011, 01:49:58 am »

- you are hilarious and that is quite impressive with that solder gun. Imagine if I used that? There would be holes in the board

.

SOOOO, I took the board out, cleaned it up, soldered like you said, checked for cold and overflow. There is now NO verticle or horizontal problems now and the colors look great... THANKS! for the advice. Still doesn't look right though that I am not sure what to make of this (the big line on the screen is from the camera not the monitor):

lilshawn · « **Reply #50 on:** December 30, 2011, 03:34:01 pm »

looks like a rom / ram chip problem...

give them all a push and see if it goes away.

calz · « **Reply #51 on:** December 30, 2011, 06:28:35 pm »

Thanks. Pulled the board out and reseated them all... didn't make a difference (argh).

mrazy1 · « **Reply #52 on:** December 30, 2011, 08:12:01 pm »

Well Maybe someone else can help you here Glad to see it up and running. Looks to me that your brightness maybe to high.... go into the test patterns of screen color bars(If that game has that) and set all you colors Black needs to be black and white need to be white... But I think someone ere has posted how to set this up. I know Lilshawn Knows more about this then I do. I can set it myself but do not know how to tell other how to set colors.. and with the other problem you have.. Did you Change C202?? and I would check connection first. Should be the first thing someone should do first always. Plugs, Connection and and fuses... Then Block out what is working and what is not.. GOD BLESS Great Job by the way. May not be on for a will.. I have fixed all those games this guy had and he is happy for now cant convice him that they need cleaning once a month. but I guess when they brake I will be doing it then HAPPY NEW Year

P.S. Looks a little fuzzy too.

mgb · « **Reply #53 on:** December 30, 2011, 11:17:29 pm »

I had a similar issue with a DK where I had pulled any socketed chips and cleaned the pins (typical of many old boards)

calz · « **Reply #54 on:** December 30, 2011, 11:56:40 pm »

Quote from: mrazy1 on December 30, 2011, 08:12:01 pm

Well Maybe someone else can help you here Glad to see it up and running. Looks to me that your brightness maybe to high.... go into the test patterns of screen color bars(If that game has that) and set all you colors Black needs to be black and white need to be white... But I think someone ere has posted how to set this up. I know Lilshawn Knows more about this then I do. I can set it myself but do not know how to tell other how to set colors.. and with the other problem you have.. Did you Change C202?? and I would check connection first. Should be the first thing someone should do first always. Plugs, Connection and and fuses... Then Block out what is working and what is not.. GOD BLESS Great Job by the way. May not be on for a will.. I have fixed all those games this guy had and he is happy for now cant convice him that they need cleaning once a month. but I guess when they brake I will be doing it then HAPPY NEW Year P.S. Looks a little fuzzy too.

Thanks, yup, I did change C202, and checked all of the connections. Will keep poking around at this but pretty frustrated. You have a GREAT New Year as well and good getting that guy to clean his games :-). Thanks again.

calz · « **Reply #55 on:** December 31, 2011, 12:00:39 am »

Quote from: mgb on December 30, 2011, 11:17:29 pm

I had a similar issue with a DK where I had pulled any socketed chips and cleaned the pins (typical of many old boards)

I did pull the board tonight and reset but did not clean. The chips did not look too bad but I will try this next. Did you clean yours with Scotch Brite or something else? Also, having a hard time thinking it is not the chasis or a solder point... does this look like the monitor is OK and the board could be causing this? You think pulling the chassis out again and redoing some of the pins could solve this? From what I read it looks like board to me, but when I got this game I never saw it play normally so do not know what it was like before the cap kit. Just want to get this one done (still have some cosmetic things to do, add it to the collection and move on to the next one :-)). Thanks again and have a GREAT New Year!

mgb · « **Reply #56 on:** December 31, 2011, 01:55:54 am »

When I clean rom pins, I use a dremel tool with a wire wheel on it. This needs to be done very carefully by almost not even touching the pin and using your fingers for support.
The ones I always find the worst are old Midway boards like Galaga and Pacman. Sometimes just from the gunk and pin rot, the legs will break off and then they need to be repaired. I don't remember having any legs break on the donkey kong though.

mrazy1 · « **Reply #57 on:** December 31, 2011, 05:31:36 pm »

I think you are correct.. Could be board problem not monitor


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