Hantarex Polo 2 28 inch questions

[njay]

Hi All,

i am recieving a cabinet from 2004 this week to convert to mame:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=101535.0

I still have a jamma connector with all the wires from a previous cab that housed a MTC900 that has a vga breakout cable soldered to it worked perfectly any ideas on the connections on the polo 2? and does anyone know the max resolution?

[grantspain]

polo 2 max res is 24khz

[njay]

so 640 x 480 ?

[grantspain]

i thought it was more like 640 x 350,i could be wrong though

[njay]

really crap reso for windows use

[SailorSat]

400 lines 57Hz
384 lines 60Hz
768 lines 60Hz Interlaced

[njay]

i feel a like a noob but that means 640 x 400 etc ?

[SailorSat]

basically yes.
if you want square pixels...
512x384
600x400
(640x480 @50Hz)
1024x768

[njay]

sweet thanks

[njay]

So i got the cab today and the guy removed the chassis from the polo

its a polo 25 says the chassis should it say polo 2 if its a polo2? or is polo just the brand name


question :

there is a green molex that is directly soldered to the back of the polo but i have two green molex connectors on the chassis how do i know which one to use?

[SailorSat]

As for the molex: Doesn't matter, plug it into one of them. (should the image rotated 180° later, use the other one)

As for the chassis itself...
Based on this image there should be a Polo/2 Sticker

[njay]

Nope mine says polo 25

which reso's can this one handle/

also i was looking at some pics and the guy did not have the remote board on botch chassis so no knobs for adjustments does the monitor work like this?  *edit* he says its in the cab will look at it when i am home

two more questions sorry:


1. there is a black wire with a single molex pin that comes from the monitor where do i connect this?

2. he does not remember which chassis worked when i install one put on the power and then shut it off can i just pull the anode cab from the monitor? or should i do something else/

[SailorSat]

The Polo is a standard resolution (15kHz) arcade monitor. It should be able to handle all standard resolutions (note: 240 lines [320x240] at 60Hz progressive, 480 lines [640x480] at 60Hz interlaced)

As for the black wire... If I remember correctly this goes to the neckboard. There should be a connector somewhere on it.

[njay]

thanks for your help !

should i able to just pull the anode cab off when i swith off the power to the monitor?

[SailorSat]

Well you should discharge the chassis before removing the anode.
The anode itself is just hooked in and can be removed pretty simple.

[njay]

ok i got power to the screen but i have a single white line across when its fired up any ideas? the guy said one chassis was broken , now the remote boards are missing still so i dont know if that is the problem

also with the other chassis you hear a ticking sound and the monitor wont come on now i had a hard time getting the anode in and dont know if it both pins where in the tube could that be the issue?

[grantspain]

no remote=frame collapse

[njay]

also can anyone tell me where the black ground connector
goes from the monitor braid i dont have connection
on the neck board

[njay]

thanks grantspain so the frame collapse is
the white line ?

the guy will send me the board this week

[njay]

can anyone explain why the frame collapses if there is not adjusment board?

i like to know more about monitors

[grantspain]

can anyone explain why the frame collapses if there is not adjusment board?

i like to know more about monitors

yeah,the vertical size pot is missing
the black ground from the earth braid goes to the neck card spade terminal

[njay]

there should be a spade terminal on my neckboard?

the same location as this picture? the blue connector?

[njay]

I keep asking questions but i learn a lot from this:

do all arcade monitors whine a high pitch noise when you turn them on it is normal?

 

[SailorSat]

Most likely you hear the 15kHz At least I do on my Polo

[grantspain]

there should be a spade terminal on my neckboard?

the same location as this picture? the blue connector?

yeah it comes from the earth braid around the crt,without that you will get all sorts of issues

[njay]

Thanks grantspain !!!

i found the spade connector and hooked the braid connector on it

now to wait for the adjusment board thanks !!

ow yeah so if i understand correctly the chassis says to the monitor what it gets?
so can i hook up a 32hz chassis to my tube? or is that different technlogy?

[njay]

well what if the guy does not send me the missing adjustment board

any place to get em for my 25 chassis?

[SailorSat]

I think you can build a remote from the schematics.

[grantspain]

the polo chassis accepts 15khz only unless you have a polo2 which accepts 15k and 24k
you will need either a vga to cga converter/avga card or soft15k

i have a few remote pcb kicking around if you get stuck

[njay]

thanks for the offer graintspain

i contacted the guy i am goign to pick it up on saturday

i just wired my ledwiz to the cp yesterday i cant wait to fire te monitor !

[bertthedefender]

I have a 28" Polo 15khz and that black earth wire has been dangling ever since I hooked up the monitor - I've not had any problems with the display.  Suppose I'd better find where to connect it up!

 

[njay]

So i got screwed i guess i put on the adjustment board fired here up got all white screen tryed to adjust something pooof no power only ticking from the chassis can anyone assist me?

Crap so i got two broken chassis now sigh... with no skills in monitor repair , any place to a buy a new chassis?

[njay]

are these any good?

http://www.genao.com/osc/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=30

[grantspain]

are these any good?

http://www.genao.com/osc/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=30

they seem to look o.k,quite a few people have replaced polo chassis with those

what did you try to adjust that killed the chassis,white screen is normally a good sign unless the blanking circuit is shot

[njay]

Well my screen was inwards so i tryed to adjust it but i got outside of the edge of the screen and then whop no more power and tick tick tick

is that possible to screw up a chassis by adjustments?

[grantspain]

i am not sure why that has happened,the ticking is the power supply circuit in trip and normally caused by a faulty cap in the psu circuit or the HOT short
are you u.k based or U.S?

[njay]

from holland

is it hard to fix ?

i think i now what i did wrong i als tryed the H frequeny adjuster to high maybe?

[grantspain]

from holland

is it hard to fix ?

i think i now what i did wrong i als tryed the H frequeny adjuster to high maybe?

hard to fix for someone with experience-no,for someone with no experience then dangerous and difficult
the h-freq should not kill the chassis,i expect the chassis may have been on its last legs

[njay]

Ok , what is the best option for me ?

if i order that 8liners chassis is it just plug and play are does it to require skills?

[grantspain]

the 8 liners chassis will require rewiring as the power/signal and yoke connectors are different-your best option is to repair the polo chassis or send it for repair
what signal did you send to the chassis,if it was 31khz then that would have blown the HOT

[njay]

I did hook it up to my vga card to only see if the screen would garble in the bios (like my old hantarex 900 did) then my plan was to shut it of and that point and install soft15khz
but the screen always stayed white and then poof

[grantspain]

polo 2 do not like to be fed 31khz,the HOT cannot handle it-its almost certainly a bu508a at position T22 which has blown,you can prove it by metering the centre pin of the transistor to the flyback heat shield-if you get dead short then the HOT is blown
there are a few repair places in the u.k that will fix your chassis,in general the price seems to be around £50 plus parts
I am not sure about any repair places in Holland although it may be wise to PM ckong on this forum and ask if he knows

[njay]

Ok thanks but its not a polo 2

it just polo 25 on the psu sticker on the chassis.

but i did manage to run a 19 inch hantarex mtc 900 with the same setup , in the future how should i run my video card to the monitor then?
or should i try to find a 25 vga chassis?

[grantspain]

you should set the video card with soft15k on a lcd and then plug the polo in
fyi polo 1 and polo 2 have the same problem with vga

[njay]

Ok,

but the startup of the bios does not load the driver yet in windows? so i need to switch cables everytime from a lcd to my polo?

or is it just one time?

(btw thanks for your help really cool)

[grantspain]

you set it once on your pc lcd and then it should be fine,one further thought-if you had the screen volts set far too high on the flyback transformer then that could put the monitor into trip,try turning the screen volts anti-clockwise to minimum and power on again

[njay]

Ok i can try that

are those the two black nobs on the flyback ?
where the wires come out to the anode?

[grantspain]

Ok i can try that

are those the two black nobs on the flyback ?
where the wires come out to the anode?

yep,focus and screen volts

[njay]

Nope tryed it no go

you can hear the ticking noise coming from big black thing near the metal psu rack

can i run a polo star chassis for my tube  ? this would include the vga connector with 31khz right?

you wouldn't have any chassis for me buy ?

sigh man what a bummer... what to do ... if i cant get it to be fixed i will sell it all i guess

[grantspain]

you will not find a vga chassis that fits your crt/yoke combination,I don't have any new chassis to sell at the moment
you only realistic options are to get your chassis fixed,buy a different 15khz chassis and rewire to fit or buy a complete new tri sync monitor

[njay]

Ok,

i just saw some thread about some building the 8liners chassis to a polo 25
it has a different connector for the yoke on the chassis is it possible to use the exisiting wires from the yoke and resolder them to the new connector?

for the power issue i have a inline transformer in the cab

[grantspain]

yeah it pretty simple to connect the 8 liners chassis but you must be sure to get the horizontal and vertical wires in the correct place or your new chassis will fry as well as any resistors on the yoke

[njay]

Thanks for your help
but a new chassis will cost me around 180 with shipping and the risk of blowing it up again its really high

i put up 2 ads on internet one for a mechanic who can fix the chassis and 1 for a complete sale of the cabinet
i am technical with servers and computers but monitors and all goes beyond my range

i know it sounds really weak maybe but its better then blowing money in the sky everytime i try to fix it

thanks for your help !

[grantspain]

if you get problems finding a repair person let me know as i can fix it for you although i do not usually fix chassis for non industry

[njay]

what would you charge for both chassis ?

[njay]

my father in law is willing to give it a shot
can you tell us what to ordet and to do ?

[grantspain]

well imo order a bu508a transistor for position T114
caps at C121 100uf 200v and C123 10uf 100v -both electrolitic 125 c rating

make sure if you replace t114 that you have a insulation sheet behind the transistor if it has a metal back,get yourself some heat conductive grease

remember electrolitic caps are polarity sensitve so make sure you get them installed the correct way around

if you get stuck and want me to fix your chassis I will charge £20 plus parts per chassis-i think you can fix this yourself though------with advice

[njay]

See PM

thanks in advance

[njay]

Also when the chassis is fixed i am going to order an arcadevga this will be the safest option for me not to frie the chassis again

[njay]

Also what i noticed this morning on the monitor neck that two pins are slighty bend but the neck card fits anyway

should not be any problem right?

[njay]

any idea for the above ? the neckcard
fits but the two lower left pins are slighty curved on top
?

[grantspain]

how curved is curved?
photo please

[njay]

shall post a pic tommorow but the top
of the pin is slighty curved but the neck
card goes on easy

[grantspain]

shall post a pic tommorow but the top
of the pin is slighty curved but the neck
card goes on easy

should be ok,if the pin was not making the socket then it would be a problem

[njay]

is it also correct i count 9 pins from left to right
then two empty spots then another pin in the triangle section
on the neck

[grantspain]

is it also correct i count 9 pins from left to right
then two empty spots then another pin in the triangle section
on the neck

yep

[njay]

Here is your monitor noob again with a question  

I ran direct 220v from the mains to the monitor with a spliced eurostyle cable , this is ok right?
what happens when its get overvoltage or under voltage is there a protector installed somewhere?

i have insulation transformer in the machine with one eurostyle connector on the back of the machine so my guess i would run a powerstrip from that then connect the monitor and pc on that strip  

Also i noticed when the monitor worked for 4 mins lol that i had a real bad pincushion effect i read through some posts here and a lot of them say wrong chassis for the tube the guy said there where the correct ones 25 chassis for a 28 tube ... ooh well you will see them this week lol 

[grantspain]

hantarex polo are 230vac operation in europe,polo 2 are free range 85-255vac
If you input 230vac into a 110vac chassis you will blow the primary stage diodes/bridge and possibly the mains smoothing cap
if you put 110vac into a 230vac only monitor it may try to function but will cut out
Does not matter what mains voltage you input into free range chassis

polo 25/28 use same chassis-you will find 25" chassis will work on 29" crt as well

pincushion could be down to failure on east/west correction circuit or just a bad adjustment or east/west correction board actually missing

Polo 1 are cga low res chassis and will work with 0.900mh to 1.5mh horizontal yoke inductance and low impedence(less than 20 ohms)

[njay]

pff you really know a lot of monitors what's your background?

(p.s. can you check my east/west correction on my two chassis?)

[grantspain]

pff you really know a lot of monitors what's your background?

(p.s. can you check my east/west correction on my two chassis?)

25 years as an arcade tech,work freelance now but have worked for various companies including sega and overseas also

will check the east/west correction as a matter of course-I have a feeling one of the diodes is leaky

[njay]

 

need i say more? 

[njay]

lol im tired as hell after my flight to paris and back but here goes:

since both chassis where dead but one displayed a complete white screen how i know the tube is not the problem?
something is broken? or is that not possible?

[grantspain]

lol im tired as hell after my flight to paris and back but here goes:

since both chassis where dead but one displayed a complete white screen how i know the tube is not the problem?
something is broken? or is that not possible?

normally a faulty tube will either not show any screen at all/if a gun is short then a colour will saturate the screen/if the shadow mask is damaged you will get the most insane gaussing effect which you cannot clear/yoke is short then either there will be no deflection on that winding or deflection circuit of chassis will fry/gone to air will give you a nice purple fireworks display around the neck area etc etc

[njay]

another worry disapeared 

[grantspain]

this is the chassis which had a white screen-fix 200v line 10ohm flame proof protection resistor o/c,4.7uf 250v cap o/c-cause incorrectly placed links on flyback repair

[njay]

wow looks awesome graintspain thanks !!

[grantspain]

wow looks awesome graintspain thanks !!

yeah it looks good considering i am running it on a polo 2 crt

one more to go-sure its the flyback judging from readings and behaviour

btw i enjoyed the 200v line fault as its the first time i have seen it on a polo-normally that fault would be down to the lm1203n or the 12v line missing or low

[njay]

LOL i am glad you are liking my troubles

i am going to make a 220v cable for the chassis the connector is now haging in side the cabinet and when i trace back the wires like i did now it splits up a few times but it works, so i am going to cut the connector of leaving some cable and use a eurostyle terminal to connect it to it's own 220v cable

How are arcade monitors protected againt surges?

[grantspain]

this particular monitor has onboard fuse rated at 3.15amp and a smps(switch mode power supply) that basically shuts down on shorts

some monitors are 110v ac only via a isolation transformer,some are 230v ac and others are what is termed free range 85-255vac operation-you must always check your model first before powering up

[njay]

but my chassis are both 220v right? 

[grantspain]

but my chassis are both 220v right? 

hantarex polo 1 are 220v only
hantarex polo 2/star/polostar are 85v-255v
hantarex mtc9000/900 are 120v (u.k version requires 220vac for degauss as extra wiring)

[njay]

on which chassis connector (the two greenies)  did you stick the vid cable coming from the monitor? the top one ?
thanks  

[grantspain]

on which chassis connector (the two greenies)  did you stick the vid cable coming from the monitor? the top one ?
thanks  

the one infront of the remote board

[njay]

Cool , ow yeah i see a lot of monitor pictures here and usually the suction cup is sucked tight to the tube
but i cannot seem to get it like this when i connected both chassis the pins griped the inside but the suction cup stood outwards like it was going to get lose

[grantspain]

Cool , ow yeah i see a lot of monitor pictures here and usually the suction cup is sucked tight to the tube
but i cannot seem to get it like this when i connected both chassis the pins griped the inside but the suction cup stood outwards like it was going to get lose

you must be doing it wrong

[njay]

yeah i know that is why i am asking to learn

what i do:

1. pull back the rubber section
2. put one pin in the hole on the tube
3. try to get the other pin in
4. let go of the rubber

it will stick on my tube i cannot remove it so the pins are stuck but the rubber is not flat on the tube

[grantspain]

push the rubber flat

[njay]

lol as easy as that eh?

is it a huge issue when the rubber is not flat on ?

[grantspain]

lol as easy as that eh?

is it a huge issue when the rubber is not flat on ?

yep as the ht will arc

[njay]

First off thanks for all the info i really learn a lot from this

second i just remember when i put the neck board on its a little of center when compared to the monitor tube but it fits, i am asking this because i see a lot of pictures from tubes here with the neckboard centered with the tube

[grantspain]

should be dead centre-check your pins are not bent or maybe its just your eyesight

[njay]

two are top bent slighty but like said earlier the neckboard fits

[grantspain]

two are top bent slighty but like said earlier the neckboard fits

don't worry then

[grantspain]

last chassis is all but repaired,just waiting for the correct flyback to turn up(company sent me a polo2 flyback)
runs with a polo 2 flyback but vertical scan is low and no brightness control

fix on this ticking chassis is flyback/possible leaky bu508a/change of a few leaky caps

[njay]

nice really amazing work
now i have two good chassis sweet