Well, it’s about time I start my project thread. I started planning my project in February of 08 and I started building in May of 08, and as of today I stand at about 95% completion.
My project is a scratch built, upright, 4-player arcade cabinet built from the plans described in John St. Claire‘s book, “Project Arcade.” It is called “THE SYSTEM” and it is TRON themed. The name refers to the ambiguous piece of hardware on which all of the programs run in the movie TRON.
I’ve kept a build log for this project on my blog, so you can read all about it there.
Part 1-3 :
http://www.1up.com/do/blogEntry?publicUserId=5723357&bId=8767158Part 4 :
http://www.1up.com/do/blogEntry?publicUserId=5723357&bId=8932225Part 5 :
http://www.1up.com/do/blogEntry?publicUserId=5723357&bId=8958171Part 6 :
http://www.1up.com/do/blogEntry?publicUserId=5723357&bId=8981270Here’s a short summary.
For the cabinet, I pretty much followed the plans in the book exactly using 3/4ths inch MDF. I ran into real issues during the painting stage, unable to get a smooth finishing coat using foam rollers as described in the book. I ended up laying the cabinet on its back and sides and used spray cans to get the final coat done and it turned out really nice.
I deviated from the book’s design when building my control panel as I wanted to be able to support 4 player games. I widened the top to 40 inches and increased the size of the box to fit all my controls. I was able to hunt down the 5/8ths inch MDF for the top of the panel and I used 1/8ths in plexiglass to cover my control panel overlay. T-molding is 3/4ths inch light blue from T-molding.com.
I designed the marquee and CPO artwork myself using inkscape, and I got the overlay printed at Kinkos (can’t remember the type of paper right now, but its in my blog), and I got the marquee printed by MAME Marquees.
Here is a list of parts I used in the cab, and a letter grade describing how satisfied I am with each product.
2 Ultimarc Ultrastick 360s with bat tops, hard springs (formerly medium springs), circular restrictor plates, and button harnesses. A-. Buying these sticks is expensive enough, but tacking on another 30 dollars (each) for the accessories to get them just right is annoying (I top mounted these sticks so I wouldn‘t have to pay another 15 bucks for longer shafts). Also, installing the restrictor plates was a huge pain in the ass during which I broke hardware and had to contact Andy for replacements. Fortunately, Andy gets an A+ in customer service, and once these sticks are installed their performance is impeccable. I don’t think I would have wanted to build a cabinet with anything less than these sticks as my main controllers. They really have no peers. They are just a bit frustrating to deal with at times.
GPWiz40 gampad interface by Groovy Game Gear. A. Since I was using the U360 button harnesses, I was able to wire up the entire rest of my sticks and buttons with this interface. It works perfectly and not only is it the only standalone interface to support mechanical rotary joysticks, it provides the most versatile rotary support on the market. I did a little write up on this product on the Rotary Joystick thread.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=76828.msg935105#msg935105 2 Happ Mechanical Rotary Joysticks. B. I’m pretty happy with these sticks. The rotary functionality works perfectly (when paired with the correct version of MAME, see the above Rotary Joystick thread). However, the normal joystick movement does feel noticeably bulkier because of the rotary interface hanging on the bottoms of them. I don’t think I’d be happy using these sticks as my main controllers. Then again, I’ve got mine sitting next to two U360s, so all their flaws are pretty noticeable.
MacSense iFunstick PC flightstick. C- (and falling). Sigh. I took a gamble with this stick as I wanted the versatility of an analog stick in my cab AND I wanted it to look like a TRON stick. It worked perfectly at first, but three months in, it’s already feeling a bit mushy. I’m dreading having to replace it and I certainly wish I had stuck a higher end stick in there to begin with. On the bright side, it only cost me 10 bucks (what was I expecting for 10 bucks).
Happ 3” USB trackball. A. Haven’t played a ton of games with this, but I have played some, and it works perfectly. I’m not having any of the problems people have complained about with the USB model in the past. Works great as a mouse in Windows too.
Groovy Game Gear TurboTwist 2 Hi-Lo Spinner (USB). A. This thing is a really nice piece of bling and it works just as it should. The later levels of Discs of TRON play perfectly and I couldn’t be happier. If there’s a nit, it’s that there is the tiniest bit of friction when pushing and pulling the spinner, as if the shaft is slightly rubbing on the mounting plate. Worth noting, but you only notice it when looking for it and it does not affect gameplay one bit. I wouldn’t even bother replacing it if Randy offered. Highly recommended.
Happ Concave and Happ Competition pushbuttons. A+. I ended up using the concaves for my game buttons and the competitions for my admin buttons. They all feel great, but I found the competition buttons just didn’t feel as authentic as the concaves when playing games.
Vinyl Button Stickers from Pongo. Deffered. If I had to rate them right now, it’d be an A+, but I just got them installed and I want to see how long they last. They look spectacular though.
Marquee print from MAME Marquees. B. Looks great, but I had to go back and forth with Scott a few times to get it right (and ultimately, I went to the trouble of getting around the problem myself, see my blog). Again, great customer service, but annoying that I had to bother with it.
Wells Gardner D9800 Monitor. B. If this thing lasts me 10 years, then I increase my rating to an A (my hopes are not high for that though). Looks sharp and vibrant at all resolutions. The only flaw is in the geometry and it ranges in noticeably based on what resolution you are running at. Really, the geometry is no worse than any other modern CRT, but its certainly not perfect (it’s way better than the pictures of the Beston Imperials you see on this forum though). I would not hesitate to get this monitor based on it’s geometry, since it’s certainly good enough and the ability to digitally multi-sync to any arcade resolution is fast becoming a hard to find feature.
Tinted monitor glass from One Day Glass. A+. Specs are on my blog. I’m really happy I sprung for this. It looks perfect and I don’t have to worry about scratching it when I wipe it down. Highly recommended.
Happ Coin Door. A. It’s a coin door. Looks nice. It works. What else is there to say?
Big big thanks to everyone on this board. We all make this possible for each other and I don’t think many of us could actually do it if we didn’t all congregate here. Big, big thanks to Andy from Ultimarc, Randy from Groovy Game Gear, SailorSat for her brilliant Soft15-Khz program, Pongo for his stickers, Divemaster for his consolidating, the programmers of MAME, Daphne, and MALA (and its plug-ins) for their amazing programs, and everybody else for answering all my noob questions. Oh, and of course, thanks to saint for guiding us all here. To think, a year and a half ago I found myself on this site looking for reviews of the X-Arcade tank stick. “Whoa… these people build what now?”
Anyway, I would not have an arcade cabinet in my basement if it weren’t for all you guys. It’s really a dream come true. Thanks.