Howto: Top mounting the Seimitsu LS-32 without routing (+artwork friendly)

[FinnJävel]

Hi

I built my first full-size cab and thought I'd share my method of top-mounting a Seimitsu LS-32. Before I started on the cp, I tried to find ways to install the 32, but none of the stuff I found worked for me. See, I don't own a router (and don't want to get one just for this. There is too much electronic junk in my garage and in the world as a whole) but still needed to get the correct joystick height. I've built two bartops before but I used Happ  joysticks so the longer shaft allowed for an easy installation with 9mm plywood. Now I wanted to use 'better' parts so I had to think of an alternative to both bottom mounting and routing. This method might be old news to some but at least I didn't find it anywhere. So maybe this could be helpful to someone.

By the way, this method also allows you to take the cp apart without destroying the artwork (in theory at least).

So, the Method:

There are three layers in the cp:
- 9mm plywood (any thicker and the Seimitsu buttons won't reach through, Happ buttons work ok.)
- 2mm polyurethane (guess you could also use polyethylene(I think it was). Finding/working with 2mm acrylic can be difficult)
- 3mm acrylic

The idea is that rather than routing down into the wood, we raise the sides around the joysick. The base plate of the LS-32 is 1,6mm thick so there is only 0,4mm difference between the two. I know I couldn't route a hole with less difference. The artwork sticks to the polyurethane and can be lifted off for hardware maintenance. If you're gluing the artwork down, just don't glue it to the LS-32 plate or cut a piece of thick paper on the plate first.

Step 1: Cut the layers to size. Stack them and check the sides etc.

Step 2: Cut a hole in the ply for the bottom part of LS-32.


Step 3: Cut a hole in the polyurethane for the top plate of the LS-32. Assemble the LS-32 (no shaft needed) in place to check the results.



Step 4: You'll have to counter sink the metal plate a bit in order to secure the joystick in place.


Step 5: Stack the layers and clamp them. Mark your button placements.

Step 6: Drill (something) through the whole stack at once. I just drilled pilot holes through the stack and the did the 30mm holes separately for each layer but still ended up filing away to get buttons to fit. Guess you could just drill the button holes directly.


Done


Now, at this time I have to remind you that I'm pretty crap at building these things. This cab took me 60 working hours to build. I seem to have two major problems: 1)planning and 2)execution. Other than those, I'm fine. What I'm saying, there may be a faster/cleverererer way to go about building this. Just pitch in if you see room for improvement.

Thusly.

[mimic]

That creates 3 layers of some kind of material. Wouldn't that get in the way of adding T-molding? Not everyone is going to want to finish the way you did. Other than that I guess it's a good way to do without a router!

EDIT: I'm more interested in how did you drill holes for the screws to secure the plate to the wood, without head screws protruding? That was my biggest issue and still is not perfect.

[FinnJävel]

That creates 3 layers of some kind of material. Wouldn't that get in the way of adding T-molding? Not everyone is going to want to finish the way you did. Other than that I guess it's a good way to do without a router!

Well if you are T-molding just for T-moldings sake, the you cuold T-mold into the front panel leaving room for the 2mm polyurethane on top. If you want a 'lip' and T-molding then this isn't for you.

Although T-molding without a router is another thing....

I'm more interested in how did you drill holes for the screws to secure the plate to the wood, without head screws protruding? That was my biggest issue and still is not perfect.

With one of these: . Don't know about perfection, though but then again I have 0,4mm leeway here.