Author Topic: Cutting the button holes (Read 6953 times)

clockwork · « **on:** February 17, 2007, 10:07:37 am »

Is there an easier way? I used a 1 1/8" forstner bit. It cut very slow. That might just be the way it goes with this type of cut, but it's going to be a pain to do a couple dozen like that.

johnm160 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 17, 2007, 11:07:33 am »

I am using the same thing to do my button holes and find that it cuts with no problem and very fast.

I am going through 3/4 plywood though, I have not tried this on MDF so if that is what you are using it might just be the nature of the material. MDF is tough on tools.

clockwork · « **Reply #2 on:** February 17, 2007, 02:12:36 pm »

Yeah, that's what I've read about MDF. Still, brand new bit and it feels like I'm cutting with a dull butter knife.

Bobbler · « **Reply #3 on:** February 17, 2007, 07:44:57 pm »

I used a spade bit for mine. Pilot hole first with a standard 5mm drill bit and then it cut straight through 10mm MDF in about 10 seconds a hole. Rubbed off any rough bits with a bit of sandpaper afterwards. Was a perfect fit for my buttons.

ScottS · « **Reply #4 on:** February 17, 2007, 07:47:01 pm »

My forstner bits cut pretty quickly! You could also try a hole saw or a spade bit. What are you using to drill? A drill press? Corded drill? Cordless drill? You have the drill bit turning clockwise, right?

jlfreund · « **Reply #5 on:** February 18, 2007, 12:03:56 am »

I tried everything and by far the best is the 1 1/8" hole saw. Cuts through plywood, MDF, and plexi/acrylic like butter -- smooth and accurate every time.

Jason

leapinlew · « **Reply #6 on:** February 18, 2007, 12:10:00 am »

I use a speedbor spade bit for cutting into wood. I use a hole saw for metal.

fjl · « **Reply #7 on:** February 18, 2007, 01:29:29 am »

I assume the power of the tool should make a huge difference during the cutting job.

johnm160 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 18, 2007, 10:19:49 am »

a spade bit will probably cut a little faster then the forstner. I opted for the forstner because plywood has a tendency to splinter. If i were cutting MDF I would use the less expensive spade bit.

prOk · « **Reply #9 on:** February 18, 2007, 07:21:08 pm »

a forstner is the proper tool to do this with if you want nice sharp edges.. you have to use less pressure with MDF and keep the bit clean. MDF tends to bunch up on the bit. Also, use something decent instead of the harbor freight type stuff and you'll see a great difference in performance.

bfauska · « **Reply #10 on:** February 19, 2007, 02:28:04 am »

This may sound odd, but if you have access to compressed air while you are drilling/cutting your holes you can use the air as a coolant. If you blow a steady stream of compressed air at the hole while you drill it will help clean away chips and keep the tool cooler at the same time. It prolongs the life of the tool, sometimes makes cutting easier, and always blasts a lot of dust around. Messy, but helpful.

I am looking forward to my first CP. I am using 1/2" plexi for the whole thing (just a USB arcade control box) for use with my laptop and/or desktop computer. I figure I will break a few CPs before I am done drilling all the holes.

Later,
Brian

leapinlew · « **Reply #11 on:** February 19, 2007, 02:41:30 am »

Quote from: bfauska on February 19, 2007, 02:28:04 am

This may sound odd, but if you have access to compressed air while you are drilling/cutting your holes you can use the air as a coolant. If you blow a steady stream of compressed air at the hole while you drill it will help clean away chips and keep the tool cooler at the same time. It prolongs the life of the tool, sometimes makes cutting easier, and always blasts a lot of dust around. Messy, but helpful.

I am looking forward to my first CP. I am using 1/2" plexi for the whole thing (just a USB arcade control box) for use with my laptop and/or desktop computer. I figure I will break a few CPs before I am done drilling all the holes.

Later,
Brian

I'm curious how you are doing all this. I only have 2 hands and I have them both on the drill.

clockwork · « **Reply #12 on:** February 19, 2007, 11:28:12 am »

Thanks for all the input. I may try a better quality forstner bit.

NiteWalker · « **Reply #13 on:** February 20, 2007, 05:16:35 am »

Here you go. Get HSS over HCS. HSS will not dull from overheating. Forstners are best used in the drill press though. If you're using a hand drill use an irwin speedbor.

bfauska · « **Reply #14 on:** February 20, 2007, 04:38:05 pm »

Quote

I'm curious how you are doing all this. I only have 2 hands and I have them both on the drill.

Drill press, clamps, an air blower, and 2 hands. Drill press and clamps are good ideas anyway, its just a bonus that it leaves you with a free hand for the blower.

Later,
Brian

javeryh · « **Reply #15 on:** February 20, 2007, 04:58:19 pm »

FWIW I used a brand new forstner bit to drill out holes in the MDF on my cab. Each hole took about 5 minutes to bore through and I had to repeatedly clean the bit because it would get clogged every 1/8" or so. The holes came out nice and clean but my hands and arms were really tired from holding the drill. Here's a shot of me drilling the holes (on my coin door panel):

Spaz Monkey · « **Reply #16 on:** February 20, 2007, 08:49:03 pm »

I have yet to make a CP, but I was thinking of getting this (see pic) from Bob Roberts to use as a template for my button hole and use a plunge type router.

Search Bob's part page for "template". The part only costs $2.

javeryh · « **Reply #17 on:** February 20, 2007, 09:58:04 pm »

Quote from: Spaz Monkey on February 20, 2007, 08:49:03 pm

I have yet to make a CP, but I was thinking of getting this (see pic) from Bob Roberts to use as a template for my button hole and use a plunge type router.

Search Bob's part page for "template". The part only costs $2.

I think that would much harder than just drilling a 1-1/8" hole - you'd have to line up the template each time and I'm not even sure how the template will work. What type of router bit would you use? I must be missing something...

NiteWalker · « **Reply #18 on:** February 20, 2007, 10:14:20 pm »

That template is too thin for routing. If it were 1/2" plywood it would be perfect but then you'd need a plunge cutting router bit and those are expensive. If you don't have a drill press I highly suggest getting an irwin speedbor. The holes are clean so long as you have a backer board and they work quickly. And they're cheap (about $4.50).

leapinlew · « **Reply #19 on:** February 20, 2007, 10:42:22 pm »

Quote from: NiteWalker on February 20, 2007, 10:14:20 pm

I highly suggest getting an irwin speedbor. The holes are clean so long as you have a backer board and they work quickly. And they're cheap (about $4.50).

Awesome suggestion Nite. I say awesome, because thats what I used. I've done probably 10 control panels with my bit. It's getting a little dull, but its been a good purchase.

I would highly emphasize what you said about the backer board. Use a scrap piece of MDF behind your buttons and your golden.

leapinlew · « **Reply #20 on:** February 20, 2007, 10:43:35 pm »

Quote from: Spaz Monkey on February 20, 2007, 08:49:03 pm

I have yet to make a CP, but I was thinking of getting this (see pic) from Bob Roberts to use as a template for my button hole and use a plunge type router.

Search Bob's part page for "template". The part only costs $2.

Does he sell that as a template? It looks to me it's more of a cover up for a bad button hole, or covering a shifter hole or something.

Spaz Monkey · « **Reply #21 on:** February 20, 2007, 11:07:45 pm »

Well, since I don't know anything about routers/plunger bits I was thinking about using on of those "tracer" bits. Plunge a hole and then trace around the edge. There's a link somewhere here that mentions about tracing. And the jig is for joysticks.

javeryh · « **Reply #22 on:** February 20, 2007, 11:17:59 pm »

Quote from: Spaz Monkey on February 20, 2007, 11:07:45 pm

Well, since I don't know anything about routers/plunger bits I was thinking about using on of those "tracer" bits. Plunge a hole and then trace around the edge. There's a link somewhere here that mentions about tracing. And the jig is for joysticks.

Ahh, I get it now... I don't think that template is thick enough for something like that. You need at least 1/4" for a bearing to run along. I think a hole saw or a forstner bit are your best bets...

Spaz Monkey · « **Reply #23 on:** February 20, 2007, 11:24:56 pm »

Never thought about that....

Irwin link: http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/speedbor/speedbor.jhtml

clockwork · « **Reply #24 on:** February 21, 2007, 07:31:10 am »

So this is the bit you're talking about? The Speedbor MAX looks nice, but no 1-1/8" bit listed.

leapinlew · « **Reply #25 on:** February 21, 2007, 08:52:44 am »

I just walked into lowes and bought a speedbor bit. 1 1/8.

NiteWalker · « **Reply #26 on:** February 21, 2007, 01:23:41 pm »

Yeah I just saw the speedbor max too. It does look really nice but like you said, no 1 1/8".

xmenxmen · « **Reply #27 on:** February 21, 2007, 04:50:02 pm »

Quote from: leapinlew on February 21, 2007, 08:52:44 am

I just walked into lowes and bought a speedbor bit. 1 1/8.

That's exactly what I use to drill thru mdf. Took about 20 second or so per hole using an 18v drill. All the cuts I have made looks very clean. On the other hand, my test cuts on particle part wasn't as clean.

High speed and LOTS of power is the trick!!!

mountain · « **Reply #28 on:** February 22, 2007, 11:52:07 am »

I have yet to build my panel but I have looked into how I am going to cut the holes. I am using leaf switch buttons I got from Lizard Lick Amusements which require a slightly larger whole from the standard 1 1/8" hole. I couldn't find a bit the right size at my local hardware store so I built a circle cutting jig for my router capable of cutting holes as small as 3/4" as long as a 1/4" router bit is used. I tested this a few days ago and it worked perfect after I got it dialed in.

clockwork · « **Reply #29 on:** February 25, 2007, 09:44:29 pm »

Use the Speedbor bit today. It rocks! Got six holes drilled in about the time it took me to do one with the forstner.

NiteWalker · « **Reply #30 on:** February 26, 2007, 01:51:15 am »

I just noticed all the new speedbor bits have a blue coating. My old ones don't. I'm not sure if it makes much of a difference...

But now I want one with the blue coating...


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