The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Le Chuck on March 25, 2013, 07:36:52 pm
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(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/FH1_zps1cdfc70e.jpg) (http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/FH3_zpsf135b251.jpg)
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/34E6F31F-FEAB-43AC-A255-0AE48A7F2DD5-5051-00000E1E42B844EB_zpsad0c3705.jpg) (http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/C99282E8-09C8-4EE5-9E71-9903E52B22AF-5051-00000E1E3208CE9F_zps985ab816.jpg)
Also, I am excited to show off some new prototype hardware from Groovy Game Gear. I would like to present the Omni2 ROBO!
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/EAF5D6B2-E9E0-458C-A2B5-319F9BBD0831-5051-00000E1E4EA58F91_zps7f4aef50.jpg)
The Omni2 ROBO is a great solution for those looking to automate their OMNI2 but were put off by or too busy for the servo mounting and actuating arm fabrication. The two ROBOs came with servos and a Micro Maestro servo controller. From there I just added a 6v power supply and used a super simple script in conjunction with DaOld Man's joychoose to automate the switch. Ideally I'd say these would be mounted on a metal CP but you can see how I did on wood. Hopefully long handles will be available so one could just do a super simple bottom mount with threaded inserts and call it good. There is a slight overhang where the servo isn't covered by the mounting plate but this is a minor issue to a really fantastic solution. I have no clue if Randy is going to market these as a stand alone project or make them available as kits but he's got a really good product here and what's great is that the micro controller can run up to 6 of them at once.
Here's a video with me narrating like a moron but you can check out the motion:
http://s479.photobucket.com/user/vonjett/media/Fieldhouse/316E3A99-E513-4DF3-95C9-C848B9005CF9-5083-00000E21566A6AD7_zps6b6169f4.mp4.html (http://s479.photobucket.com/user/vonjett/media/Fieldhouse/316E3A99-E513-4DF3-95C9-C848B9005CF9-5083-00000E21566A6AD7_zps6b6169f4.mp4.html)
Sorry it's not embedded.
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Original Post
I've accepted a commission from a friend to build him a cab. Project has to be complete by end of April. I'll be focusing on this from the time being so the NRFT will collect some dust for a bit.
Input from client thus far:
Two auto switching joys
6 buttons each player
Trackball
Arcade guns
LCD okay
He really liked JAHilton's Space Invader cab shape and details so I'll be taking a few pages out of that build's book
St. Pauli Girl theme'd
Where I'm at: I'm working parts list tonight. I just got done doing a proof of concept for side art and based on his feedback we'll go from there. I really would appreciate all of your feedback as well. It's always nice to get another set of eyes on my art. The St. Pauli girl stuff is all low res but I found some nice vector art so I started modifying until I had something I thought looked reminiscent. I'm trying to give the look of the brand while harkening to some ICB styling as well.
I have a hankering to do a black and white cab and mixed with the bavarian blue I figure that would make a good palette. Plan on having the front and back done in black with the sides in white. Some other touches will occur to me as I flesh out the design.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=131323.0;attach=286348;image)
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Rough Estimate of costs attached - labor not included
BLUF: Client is providing the computer. This accounts for (most) everything else excluding labor and shipping. Estimate arrives at $918. There are much more expensive ways and much cheaper as well but I think this is a nice middle ground that will provide the supplies necessary to build a great cab.
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Didn't see a molex/switched socket in your parts list, in case you were planning to install one. Also feet/wheels ?
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Concept met with approval. There will be some updates. I did up a marquee based on Taper that should match the theme pretty well.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=131323.0;attach=286455;image)
Suggestions and comments welcome!
Didn't see a molex/switched socket in your parts list, in case you were planning to install one. Also feet/wheels ?
Wasn't planning on molex, I usually just solder everything together. Feet/wheels are something that I'll need to figure out how I want to incorporate for this build and then find the right style. You're right tho, they're missing from the estimate. Good catch.
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I'm sure this guy may not have the approval for something so risque but...
this is what I might do for side art on a theme like this....
http://images.postling.com/a/aa4/g_fullxfull.46631.jpg (http://images.postling.com/a/aa4/g_fullxfull.46631.jpg)
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Love the marquee! I think this machine could benefit from some ICBish side art though.
(http://blogs.houstonpress.com/eating/Ice%20Cold%20Beer.jpg)
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Love the marquee, Chuck!
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I'm sure this guy may not have the approval for something so risque but...
this is what I might do for side art on a theme like this....
http://images.postling.com/a/aa4/g_fullxfull.46631.jpg (http://images.postling.com/a/aa4/g_fullxfull.46631.jpg)
I approve of this message :cheers:
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Thanks for the feedback guys. Hentai barmaid is certainly um interesting. :lol
Love the marquee! I think this machine could benefit from some ICBish side art though.
(http://blogs.houstonpress.com/eating/Ice%20Cold%20Beer.jpg)
Exactly where I'm headed. Just need to build on what I have. :cheers:
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Didn't see a molex/switched socket in your parts list, in case you were planning to install one. Also feet/wheels ?
When I went to Home Depot to look for wheels on my build, wow,.. I did not know they where so spendy!!!! So, I did what any ol, cheap bastard would do, go home and dissamble the piano dolly and take it's wheels! ;D :cheers:
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I like the design, simple and to the point. I'm not sure if it would fit but try to work the Blue Bavarian Lion in there somewhere, that thing is the bomb.
Parts list looks good and costs also look good. Good machines cost a few dollars to build so it makes sense. By the name/sound I'm assuming this will be in a public bar? Have you started considering how to lock the computer down? You're going to spend close to equal amounts of time on the build as you are on streamlining the computer if it's fit for a public local. Have you thought about instruction manuals/binders for operation? I don't think you want to be called at 1 AM cause a drunk customer wants to play Robotron right?
If this isn't a public place then scratch all of that above lol.
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I like the design, simple and to the point. I'm not sure if it would fit but try to work the Blue Bavarian Lion in there somewhere, that thing is the bomb.
Parts list looks good and costs also look good. Good machines cost a few dollars to build so it makes sense. By the name/sound I'm assuming this will be in a public bar? Have you started considering how to lock the computer down? You're going to spend close to equal amounts of time on the build as you are on streamlining the computer if it's fit for a public local. Have you thought about instruction manuals/binders for operation? I don't think you want to be called at 1 AM cause a drunk customer wants to play Robotron right?
If this isn't a public place then scratch all of that above lol.
All good advice, but nope ;) Just going in a beer lover's man cave.
When I went to Home Depot to look for wheels on my build, wow,.. I did not know they where so spendy!!!! So, I did what any ol, cheap bastard would do, go home and dissamble the piano dolly and take it's wheels! ;D :cheers:
Yeah, I've used old roller skates before ;D Any way to meet the need and save a buck
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V1 on left. V2 on right. Took Nep's advice to add some stain glass effects and it really makes it pop. Adjusted the banner text to look better as well.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=131323.0;attach=286563;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=131323.0;attach=286567;image)
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I like it. Any chance you could swap out that white/blue checkerboard for something that looks a little more like stained glass? I think that would tie it to the marquee a little better.
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It wouldn't be too much hassle. It would lose that Bavarian charm tho. I might try doing a stain glass checkerboard and see how that looks.
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I like it. Any chance you could swap out that white/blue checkerboard for something that looks a little more like stained glass? I think that would tie it to the marquee a little better.
Good advice :cheers: Check it out:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=131323.0;attach=286567;image)
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I dig it! :cheers:
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I have some ideas for the CPO but I'd like to open it up for suggestions first and see what shakes out.
Layout will be a simple SFII with a TB in the middle on a rounded front CP similar to the ones that Yaksplat does but not as deep. Thoughts?
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You using cad? If so I can pass some files on.
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You using cad? If so I can pass some files on.
Ha, I wish. I just pound my face against photoshop until something nice comes out. Got a vector I can work from?
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ygm
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an arcade with a bar theme,.. come on!!!!! this one def screams cup holders!!!! or
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Haha, it would also be awesome to get beer mugs with that logo printed on em.
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Subscribed. For wheels, check out harbor freight. Not sure if you have one local, but I have one down the street and they have bins of good qauality wheels.
Love the art. Man, I wish I was good at the art.
AJ
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an arcade with a bar theme,.. come on!!!!! this one def screams cup holders!!!! or
Agreed. Especially because the side art is encouraging you to enjoy a drink while you game. ;)
Looking good so far!
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for wheels, something like this would be fitting for a pub/bar theme, non marking wood. Actually pretty inexpensive too..
(http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/dlawlesshardware_2256_144590855)
found here: http://www.dlawlesshardware.com/setoffo75dic2.html (http://www.dlawlesshardware.com/setoffo75dic2.html)
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I've got a pair of happ rollers on the back of my cabinet and then a pair of adjustable sliders/levelers on the front. Easy to move around and won't mar the surface.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7032/6679192539_40a3211ed7_z.jpg)
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Initial infusion of cash has been received and the computer is on hand. Online orders have been placed for everything except the art. I need to get the art done this weekend. I'm getting ready to head to the hardware store and will see how far I can get over this Easter three day. Wish me luck!
ygm
Thanks mate, you're a peach! :cheers:
BTW, those wheels are hot. I should do something like that.
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(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/372CFE18-9E61-455B-8FB1-1CC3B9DB1985-870-0000022DF9BFD999_zps21b48465.jpg) (http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/BBCDF150-A5E9-4E88-A4AB-85A3689FFB2B-870-0000022DF2CB74FE_zps9b2afa75.jpg)
Scored the TV off craigs for $20. It worked fine at the seller's house, got it home and it started showing classic signs of needing a cap job on the vertical. I'll crack it open and see if one is bulged, if not I'll probably just replace the lot. I toyed with decasing but its a slim case on as far as width goes so I'm not really gaining any space by doing it. Makes it easier to replace for the user later on down the road like this anyway.
I wasted an afternoon building a super sturdy awesome 5" base only to determine it was a bit too narrow to feel stable and about two inches too tall to be comfortable. Was able to make use of 80% of the wood from the effort but was kicking myself for not stacking some wood up just to test height first. Live and learn.
The build can be dismantled as I'm using threaded inserts throughout. It ran about $50 in hardware to do it that way but I like it better than screws, it's rock solid, and it can always be flat packed and put in a conex to take to afghanistan or something ;D
Still to do:
remake the base - shorter and fatter
mount marquee light
fab marquee retainers
fab CP box
route for t-moulding
glue in guides for bezel glass
complete art
disassemble
paint
reassemble
do all that other arcadey stuff that always happens
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(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/07DEABAE-1861-4502-8473-85E99BD59A23-1106-000002E0C597CE5D_zpsee973afd.jpg)
Got a fair amount done after work today. Fixed the base, did some more on the monitor mount, cut the top of the CP, wired and mounted the marquee light, cut and formed the marquee retainers, routed for T-molding, fell asleep at the wheel and totally borked an 8 inch section on the front while routing, did all the sanding and patch work, filled the borked area with wood filler so I can retrain on routing.
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/DF7ECCA8-FFE7-484B-A857-DC10DFD09C79-1106-000002E0BEDE0842_zpsd5600a36.jpg)
Top down detail of the CP. I'm trying something a bit out of left field with this one but think it will blend well and have nice curves. I need to cut the front and bottom pieces but can't put it all together until I get in my parts to route and test fit all the components. I've got my dimensions sorted in my head tho so I can start on the art finally.
Still to do:
complete CP construction
get glass cut
glue in guides for bezel glass
complete art
disassemble
paint
reassemble
cap the tv
Anyway, let me know what you think!
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do you want constructive criticism or kiss ass comments?
It may be the camera, but the top of that thing doesnt' look proportional. It's like you modified it to fit those humongous speakears.
Dunno man, I'm sure you'll make it look pretty in the end, otherwise good start....
Trackball should be in you hands by the end of the week....
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Can you closeup the TV mount? I'm sitting on several TVs and I'd like to convert The Blue Pill when it's moved. I just have no experience with TVs.
You da man. Looks good so far. Love the fact that it can be brought on deployment.
AJ
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do you want constructive criticism or kiss ass comments?
It may be the camera, but the top of that thing doesnt' look proportional. It's like you modified it to fit those humongous speakears.
Dunno man, I'm sure you'll make it look pretty in the end, otherwise good start....
Depends, was that the kiss ass comment? :scared
Seriously tho, that's good feedback. I used the Centipede cab design as a heavy influence and I have a pechant for large marquees but I may have missed the mark. We'll have to get it all put together and see how it fits. I think the bezel will help balance everything out but it might have to be addressed. I don't see an imbalance myself but I'll be looking for it now.
Can you closeup the TV mount? I'm sitting on several TVs and I'd like to convert The Blue Pill when it's moved. I just have no experience with TVs.
You da man. Looks good so far. Love the fact that it can be brought on deployment.
AJ
Thanks. I will post up some more, I have one more support peice to make and then I'll post pics of the mount with TV and w/out. What you're looking at is a heavy duty shelf on carriage bolts at a 30o angle. The client is tall so I wanted to give him the best viewing angle I could based on his other goals for the cab.
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Ha, that was the constructive critcism.....
You get kiss ass when you work your magic and make it look pretty so i can see your total overall vision......
Until then, you know how we roll, you get ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- until you show me the pretty..... :cheers:
In seriousness.....
I like the inserts idea, but I'm a bit confused, are those the screw heads protruding on the side?
Are they recessed, and if not, if you cover those up with graphics how did you plan on the disassembly?
Can you post some photos of how you used them?
Oh and you might want to snag a scanline generator from craftymech if you want more authenticity....
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I like the inserts idea, but I'm a bit confused, are those the screw heads protruding on the side?
Are they recessed, and if not, if you cover those up with graphics how did you plan on the disassembly?
Can you post some photos of how you used them?
Oh and you might want to snag a scanline generator from craftymech if you want more authenticity....
I've already got an extra SLG from crafty, I'll have to do some testing to see how it looks but the big ass CRT should provide some good lines on its own.
There are two sets of bolts that will show on the sides, the base support bolts and the CRT support bolts. All the panels are done with the threaded inserts. I'll post pics. I went with the through bolts on the two big support pieces because I need to maximize stability while preserve the ability to disassemble. The side art isn't a full skin so it won't be an issue. Once I get everything painted I'll do a fully assembly set of pics so folks can learn what to do and what not to do as they see fit ;D
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:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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Rough draft CPO. I'm not 100% happy with this I think. It's headed in the right direction but it's not quite there yet, or maybe I've been working on it for too long at one stretch. My design eye is shot for the evening.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=131323.0;attach=286973;image)
edit: Just for reference the bend will be about at the lions' necks-ish.
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Phew. I though you'd just rest your elbows on the CP while you played.
AJ
Rough draft CPO. I'm not 100% happy with this I think. It's headed in the right direction but it's not quite there yet, or maybe I've been working on it for too long at one stretch. My design eye is shot for the evening.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=131323.0;attach=286973;image)
edit: Just for reference the bend will be about at the lions' necks-ish.
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Have you tried outlining the lions like you do with the little ones?
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Have you tried outlining the lions like you do with the little ones?
Yeah, I'll play around with it some more tho. It's hard finding the balance between the text overlays and the outline to keep it from becoming visually muddled. The client is pleased, I'll try a few more things tho. I did the lions as stained glass but it felt cliparty and I didn't like it. I think this is pretty close unless somebody has a wizbang idea.
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I'd maybe try tossing in a splash of red somehow to make it pop a bit more, the barmaid ribbons and lips on the sideart seem to really stand out in a good way.
Otherwise, it still looks good as-is.
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How about adding in name of cab on the CP
Feildhaus
with ulauts over the u, or something awesome like that...
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I'm sorry if I missed this, but what size is the tv you're using?
Everything is looking great!
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Updated the CP art. I spent a while trying to get some red in but couldn't work it in a way that I liked. I will probably play with the instructional text around the two admin buttons a bit more just to clean it up so it isn't so muddled. I cleaned up the lions and removed the text over writing as I thought it was distracting. Added the name too, which gives it a bit more zing. Better or worse?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=131323.0;attach=287032;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=131323.0;attach=286973;image)
Side by side for reference. The newer on the left (or upper depending on browser).
Disassembled the cab and have started priming. Will be painting through the weekend.
I'm sorry if I missed this, but what size is the tv you're using?
Everything is looking great!
27"
Thanks!
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UMLAUTS!
(http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSDIpUgVPLgn5cb-vZgScrX3_hdnOE51Pj8LzWE45ZBTMJprh8thQ)
The text adds important depth but I agree the Lions pop more now that they are on top of the text.
Maybe you lightened the text too much?
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Harvey, umlauts just ain't in the cards but I like your style ;D
I played with the two admin buttons a bit. I want the cab to be really simple and user friendly so I'm labeling the select/pause and exit button. Other admin functions will be shifted off a key that isn't readily accessible and listed on an instruction card inside the coin door. Anyways here's what I have now, easier to read and pretty self explanatory even if you don't read it. I'm just hoping the color rings don't detract too much from the design. If necessary I can spell it out on orange or black for both. Thoughts?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=131323.0;attach=287041;image)
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Le Chuck, could you make three quick measurements for me on your cab? I have a similar tv laying around would like to do a full size cab with it in the future.
I'd like to know the height of the monitor support piece (front and back) along with how deep the cab is below the control panel.
Thanks!
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Le Chuck, could you make three quick measurements for me on your cab? I have a similar tv laying around would like to do a full size cab with it in the future.
I'd like to know the height of the monitor support piece (front and back) along with how deep the cab is below the control panel.
Thanks!
I'll post up some measurements today, shouldn't be an issue
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FYI, you have a typo in the green ring around the left button "PRESS TO PUASE A GAME".
Looks amazing, man... I really ought to hire someone off here to design my cabinet art.
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that's PUA-SE from ancient Swahili, meaning 'to halt'
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If you wanted to get more red in the lions, I'm sure nobody would notice if you used the same lion from this family crest <attached below>
Have to say; looking awesome, I really like the newer design with the lions above the text; makes a lot of difference and looking just as awesome as your other projects... Though I'm waiting on seeing a finished R2 unit ;) heh heh
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MC, and whoever else cares, here are the measurements for the side panels to get things started. I numbered all the corners of the cab with the rear bottom corner being 0, the front bottom corner 1, the corner at the bottom of the CP arm 2, and so on in an anticlockwise fashion. They are presented in a X, Y style so you can lay them out on a sheet of lumber. All radii are based on a 2.25" disc. All units are in inches and all decimals are common carpentry fractions.
0 - 0,0
1 - 29.75, 0
2 - 30.75, 29.25
3 - 35.4375, 29.25
4 - 36.5, 34.875
5 - 29.875, 36
6 - 23.90625, 60
7 - 33.9375, 66.1875
8 - 33.9375, 75.84375
9 - 21.09375, 75.84375
10 - 0, 62.09375
The monitor platform's leading edge is at the same height as number 5 but set back about 4 inches and the shelf is on a 30o slope down towards the back. This slope can be adjusted based on desired viewing angle tho. A 27" tv and is still cased fits with the back panel closed in this cab (but it's super close). The cab width is 26" and the panel offset is .5" except for the CP which extends into the cab 4".
I'm priming today so pics won't really help, I'll get some once I'm ready to start doing final assy.
FYI, you have a typo in the green ring around the left button "PRESS TO PUASE A GAME".
Looks amazing, man... I really ought to hire someone off here to design my cabinet art.
Thanks bro, fixered. That is a huge reason why I post this stuff - multiple eyes come in handy.
that's PUA-SE from ancient Swahili, meaning 'to halt'
Asante sana! You've always got my back boo!
Have to say; looking awesome, I really like the newer design with the lions above the text; makes a lot of difference and looking just as awesome as your other projects... Though I'm waiting on seeing a finished R2 unit ;) heh heh
Me too ;D
These little breaks (How I call working my tail off on a different project a break is beyond me) is just what I need to refocus and decide how I want to tackle certain aspects of the NRFT build. I did some more work on the lions right after work - mostly masking and path refinement to smooth some up some since they were raster to start with. In the interest of time I'll stick with what I have but appreciate the recommendation. Those are always welcome. :cheers:
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Sorry Le Chuck if I missed this,
But are you design the artwork in Photoshop (300dpi) or in Illustrator ?
Thanks
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I've been really hustling on this build trying to get it done in time. Getting close tho!
[cliffhanger] I am anxiously awaiting my order from Randy (shipped yesterday) and am über (hehe) excited to be premiering some new prototype hardware from Groovy Game Gear in this build. Randy, as you may know, is super helpful and very responsive to suggestions from the community. I've been lucky enough to get in at the early stages and showcase some of his handiwork. I think you'll like it. More to follow. [/cliffhanger]
TV is fix'd, mounted, and generally ready for action. The computer has MAME up and running like a champ and I need to put the final touches on the MALA layout. It took me waaaay to long to get that computer working with that tv but I learned a lot, like certain dells don't ship with all the ports turned on or even with drivers installed :banghead: but it's all fixed. Once I get the components I'll be able to start wiring everything up. I just need to fabricate a mount for the LED bar but that's a 15 minute side project. Still lots of little details to get done but the only major muscle movements left are mounting the controls and hanging the art.
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/7F4B64B1-CC9C-4689-9838-FB18C2BC2EEA-3336-000008BD5B818571_zpsca7f7d63.jpg)
Okay, there were some questions about making the cabinet flat packable. You can see here the 2x2 is mounted permanently to the side panel but has a 1/4" bolt fixing the top cross panel. The threaded insert doesn't protrude out the facing side. All the panel are like this except for the two back panels so the whole thing can be assembled.
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/EB137FE4-3416-4CC3-8EC7-877F4A7390E9-3336-000008BA53823E39_zps2fe22d91.jpg)
CP needs one more coat of paint then will be ready for art application.
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/0F48FAFF-9B77-4950-8555-1B365B000CB5-3336-000008BA3B67C629_zps7b92bec7.jpg)
And there we are thus far.
But are you design the artwork in Photoshop (300dpi) or in Illustrator ?
Thanks
I worked in photoshop for this build, 300dpi, and mostly in paths pushing the limits of PS's vector ability. The only raster is in the background for the stained glass (a shot of Prague that I swirled) and the lions. The gradients are raster masks as well but they're at such a high resolution that it's no issue.
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(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/DC6E2945-6113-4786-8466-76EE41BB8858-3799-000009A5C62FDE5D_zps1f983901.jpg)
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/455A5B9D-4242-410C-9B2E-D8D79220C978-3799-000009A5CE7A7015_zpsb1c8fdc7.jpg)
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I like the look of the stained glass marquee for this theme. :cheers:
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I've been really hustling on this build trying to get it done in time. Getting close tho!
[cliffhanger] I am anxiously awaiting my order from Randy (shipped yesterday) and am über (hehe) excited to be premiering some new prototype hardware from Groovy Game Gear in this build. Randy, as you may know, is super helpful and very responsive to suggestions from the community. I've been lucky enough to get in at the early stages and showcase some of his handiwork. I think you'll like it. More to follow. [/cliffhanger]
(http://www.nbproducties.nl/smilies/headbang.gif)
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This is looking great Le Chuck! I'd like to do something very similar with the monster crt sitting in my parents' basement.
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That's a pretty piece of stained glass. You should make a marquee out of it. ;D
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The stain glass is definitely nice. I'm not sure if I'm board with the downward angle on the CP though. Otherwise It's looking great. I like the break-apart build. Good use and innovative. It should hold up to weight.
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Lovin' it.
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I think there is some form of deception at play here. These images are NOT of the same person! Will the real lechuck please stand up? ;D
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Hmmm...Neighbor asked the other day if we could barter arcade for stained glass work. Hmmmm...
AJ
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I think there is some form of deception at play here. These images are NOT of the same person! Will the real lechuck please stand up? ;D
Maybe he's just in disguise... LeChuck's know alias's are:
Fester Shinetop
Chuckie
Charles L. Charles
The Ghost Pirate LeChuck
The Zombie Pirate LeChuck
The Demon Pirate LeChuck
Could be any one of those!!! :lol
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The Fieldhouse is complete. Client came over yesterday and checked it out. We identified a few bugs doing some intense testing and a wrapped up all the loose ends this afternoon. Just got done putting it through its paces and I'm pleased and confident.
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/FH1_zps1cdfc70e.jpg) (http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/FH3_zpsf135b251.jpg)
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/34E6F31F-FEAB-43AC-A255-0AE48A7F2DD5-5051-00000E1E42B844EB_zpsad0c3705.jpg) (http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/C99282E8-09C8-4EE5-9E71-9903E52B22AF-5051-00000E1E3208CE9F_zps985ab816.jpg)
Also, I am excited to show off some new prototype hardware from Groovy Game Gear. I would like to present the Omni2 ROBO!
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/EAF5D6B2-E9E0-458C-A2B5-319F9BBD0831-5051-00000E1E4EA58F91_zps7f4aef50.jpg)
The Omni2 ROBO is a great solution for those looking to automate their OMNI2 but were put off by or too busy for the servo mounting and actuating arm fabrication. The two ROBOs came with servos and a Micro Maestro servo controller. From there I just added a 6v power supply and used a super simple script in conjunction with DaOld Man's joychoose to automate the switch. Ideally I'd say these would be mounted on a metal CP but you can see how I did on wood. Hopefully long handles will be available so one could just do a super simple bottom mount with threaded inserts and call it good. There is a slight overhang where the servo isn't covered by the mounting plate but this is a minor issue to a really fantastic solution. I have no clue if Randy is going to market these as a stand alone project or make them available as kits but he's got a really good product here and what's great is that the micro controller can run up to 6 of them at once.
Here are the two scripts I used:
4 way
@echo off
usccmd --servo 0,8000
usccmd --servo 1,8000
sleep 2
usccmd --servo 0,0
usccmd --servo 1,0
8 way
@echo off
usccmd --servo 0,0001
usccmd --servo 1,0001
sleep 2
usccmd --servo 0,0
usccmd --servo 1,0
Here's a video with me narrating like a moron but you can check out the motion:
http://s479.photobucket.com/user/vonjett/media/Fieldhouse/316E3A99-E513-4DF3-95C9-C848B9005CF9-5083-00000E21566A6AD7_zps6b6169f4.mp4.html (http://s479.photobucket.com/user/vonjett/media/Fieldhouse/316E3A99-E513-4DF3-95C9-C848B9005CF9-5083-00000E21566A6AD7_zps6b6169f4.mp4.html)
Sorry it's not embedded.
Ran into a few issues. The first is a heads up for anyone trying to shell their system and using XP. The second is something I haven't heard of before which I'm still resolving.
1: Pololu Micro Controller won't initiate properly if windows is completely shelled to MALA in XP. There is some dependency that isn't getting started. Rather than do a full shell I backed it out to a sort of soft shell. Like a good taco. No windows sounds, boot screens, or cursors, but there is a flash of the start bar right before MALA loads. Call it a happy medium. Noticed that Mala and Mame both ran a tad bit better out of the gate this way anyway.
2: My player two up key keeps getting reset to one lower value. Really bizarre. I set up all the controls globally after deleting the contents of the cfg folder. P2up is button 16, exit game, enter new game, check mapping and now it is button 15. I fix, exit, re-enter, and same problem. I'll have to do some research and see if I can figure out what the issue is. All the other mappings don't get adjusted and there is no dual mapping for that key in any other setting. Once you reset it the game plays fine but it won't stick and deleting all the cfgs and starting from scratch has produced the same problem. Perhaps there is another setting of file that needs to be cleared out elsewhere. :dunno
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Awesome build.
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Turned out very nice! :applaud:
My only complaint would be the seams the CP creates on the sides.
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.
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Thanks guys.
Nep, I was concerned about that too at first but decided that I wanted to try something different. You're always going to have some seam, this way it's seamless from the top down which maximizes the available space. It's not a common mounting that's for sure tho.
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Awesome choice on the joystick color. The entire design works well with all the elements complementing each other. Makes your eye find new stuff in the art and design. Any easter eggs in the art?
What's the CPU in that thing?
AJ
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very nice on all fronts, client must be very happy :applaud:
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It's Puuuurdy! :applaud:
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Ah, nice! It's a great looking cab. I love how it all comes together. ^_^
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Well you can slam out a cab can't ya lol. Nicely done, looks badass as ever, now get back to droids and speederbikes :angry:
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How will you be changing that 4/8 way joy? I see you are using batch files, are you mapping those within the front end (i.e. Daphne ala Dragons Lair, etc) somehow or dropping out to launch them when needed?
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...now get back to droids and speederbikes
+1
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How will you be changing that 4/8 way joy? I see you are using batch files, are you mapping those within the front end (i.e. Daphne ala Dragons Lair, etc) somehow or dropping out to launch them when needed?
I have the Joychoose plugin installed in MALA. I just point it to my two batch files. It's really easy thanks to DaOld Man's hard work. Terra hawk did a script for hyperspin iirc.
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very cool, thanks for the information! :) :cheers:
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dammit, chuck, next lesson is how to flush mount a t-ball....
(http://i.imgur.com/IJ0B6Lb.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/LF7yco0.jpg)
Ok, now the good part....
Kick ass build man, you knocked this out quick, super impressed..... :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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I like how you assume it a mistake. ;D
I didn't use a mounting plate and modified the housing. Cost me 1/8th of an inch. Two reasons. 1) to see how it would work 2) didn't want to order a mounting plate.
Thanks for the kudos and pic of your CP.
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Nice job... I like it a lot!
:applaud:
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Awesome choice on the joystick color. The entire design works well with all the elements complementing each other. Makes your eye find new stuff in the art and design. Any easter eggs in the art?
What's the CPU in that thing?
AJ
No easter eggs per say, a few of the quotes are real gems tho so that's fun. I need to do some Al Jaffee style art some time and hide all kinds of arcade related goodies. The CPU is a dual core 1ghz intel - a dell laptop. It peters out at Time Crisis and stutters through Strider 2 but all in all it runs everything that I have expected it to.
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Fixed the button reassignment issue. Apparently it's a known issue with MAME and the GPWiz encoder. Button16 gets reassigned to 15 because of an issue with the way MAME numbers inputs and well, honestly, I still don't exactly understand the issue so just soldered the lead onto a different key. Works like a charm ;D
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Looks great man. Keep up the good work. I'm with Nep on the seams, I saw it right away and went "ewww" but then I was like "well shoot, you're going to have seams somewhere.". In a less lit bar it won't be as noticeable.
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Looks great man. Keep up the good work. I'm with Nep on the seams, I saw it right away and went "ewww" but then I was like "well shoot, you're going to have seams somewhere.". In a less lit bar it won't be as noticeable.
It's all about trying new things. There are preferred methods for sure but it is nice to explore other avenues and see what one can make work.
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Sorry to resurrect an old thread (Great build BTW)
but was wondering if you ever found a fix for you issue with the player 2 up button continually resetting? I have been having an identical issue with my setup and have not figured out a way to fix it yet. I have tried deleting the cfg files like you did, and even reinstalled a new version of MAME, with the same problem happening.
Any input/advice is appreciated!
thanks!
The Fieldhouse is complete. Client came over yesterday and checked it out. We identified a few bugs doing some intense testing and a wrapped up all the loose ends this afternoon. Just got done putting it through its paces and I'm pleased and confident.
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/FH1_zps1cdfc70e.jpg) (http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/FH3_zpsf135b251.jpg)
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/34E6F31F-FEAB-43AC-A255-0AE48A7F2DD5-5051-00000E1E42B844EB_zpsad0c3705.jpg) (http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/C99282E8-09C8-4EE5-9E71-9903E52B22AF-5051-00000E1E3208CE9F_zps985ab816.jpg)
Also, I am excited to show off some new prototype hardware from Groovy Game Gear. I would like to present the Omni2 ROBO!
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/EAF5D6B2-E9E0-458C-A2B5-319F9BBD0831-5051-00000E1E4EA58F91_zps7f4aef50.jpg)
The Omni2 ROBO is a great solution for those looking to automate their OMNI2 but were put off by or too busy for the servo mounting and actuating arm fabrication. The two ROBOs came with servos and a Micro Maestro servo controller. From there I just added a 6v power supply and used a super simple script in conjunction with DaOld Man's joychoose to automate the switch. Ideally I'd say these would be mounted on a metal CP but you can see how I did on wood. Hopefully long handles will be available so one could just do a super simple bottom mount with threaded inserts and call it good. There is a slight overhang where the servo isn't covered by the mounting plate but this is a minor issue to a really fantastic solution. I have no clue if Randy is going to market these as a stand alone project or make them available as kits but he's got a really good product here and what's great is that the micro controller can run up to 6 of them at once.
Here are the two scripts I used:
4 way
@echo off
usccmd --servo 0,8000
usccmd --servo 1,8000
sleep 2
usccmd --servo 0,0
usccmd --servo 1,0
8 way
@echo off
usccmd --servo 0,0001
usccmd --servo 1,0001
sleep 2
usccmd --servo 0,0
usccmd --servo 1,0
Here's a video with me narrating like a moron but you can check out the motion:
http://s479.photobucket.com/user/vonjett/media/Fieldhouse/316E3A99-E513-4DF3-95C9-C848B9005CF9-5083-00000E21566A6AD7_zps6b6169f4.mp4.html (http://s479.photobucket.com/user/vonjett/media/Fieldhouse/316E3A99-E513-4DF3-95C9-C848B9005CF9-5083-00000E21566A6AD7_zps6b6169f4.mp4.html)
Sorry it's not embedded.
Ran into a few issues. The first is a heads up for anyone trying to shell their system and using XP. The second is something I haven't heard of before which I'm still resolving.
1: Pololu Micro Controller won't initiate properly if windows is completely shelled to MALA in XP. There is some dependency that isn't getting started. Rather than do a full shell I backed it out to a sort of soft shell. Like a good taco. No windows sounds, boot screens, or cursors, but there is a flash of the start bar right before MALA loads. Call it a happy medium. Noticed that Mala and Mame both ran a tad bit better out of the gate this way anyway.
2: My player two up key keeps getting reset to one lower value. Really bizarre. I set up all the controls globally after deleting the contents of the cfg folder. P2up is button 16, exit game, enter new game, check mapping and now it is button 15. I fix, exit, re-enter, and same problem. I'll have to do some research and see if I can figure out what the issue is. All the other mappings don't get adjusted and there is no dual mapping for that key in any other setting. Once you reset it the game plays fine but it won't stick and deleting all the cfgs and starting from scratch has produced the same problem. Perhaps there is another setting of file that needs to be cleared out elsewhere. :dunno
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MAN, that's a good looking cab! Love it.
Good work.
AJ
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@shogun, the 15/16 input issue is a little bug that seems unique to the GGG encoder (wiz) and MAME. Has to do with how the hid driver labels buttons and how Mame does. They are conflicting at some level. My solution was to scrap that input. Sucks if you need all 40 but that has been the easiest. Had the same issue with the GOT build. Just went from 15 to 17 or whatever and it works fine. Iirc some others had the same issues and just had to bypass.
Thanks for the kudos guys!
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This is amazing, and why wasn't I watching this before?
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Looks great man. Keep up the good work. I'm with Nep on the seams, I saw it right away and went "ewww" but then I was like "well shoot, you're going to have seams somewhere.". In a less lit bar it won't be as noticeable.
It's all about trying new things. There are preferred methods for sure but it is nice to explore other avenues and see what one can make work.
Looking back on this, I too didn't care for the way the control panel was mounted, but I think in hindsight, I know why... the part is the same color as the side, and the seam is very visible. I bet if you colored the exposed sides of the control panel itself the gold as the striping on the sides, the contrast might actually have looked pretty sharp.
Either way, I'm sure the owner loves it, and that's all that matters.
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Looks great man. Keep up the good work. I'm with Nep on the seams, I saw it right away and went "ewww" but then I was like "well shoot, you're going to have seams somewhere.". In a less lit bar it won't be as noticeable.
It's all about trying new things. There are preferred methods for sure but it is nice to explore other avenues and see what one can make work.
Looking back on this, I too didn't care for the way the control panel was mounted, but I think in hindsight, I know why... the part is the same color as the side, and the seam is very visible. I bet if you colored the exposed sides of the control panel itself the gold as the striping on the sides, the contrast might actually have looked pretty sharp.
Either way, I'm sure the owner loves it, and that's all that matters.
That's great feedback! I think that would have helped a lot. Even just flat black would have probably softened it a lot. It isn't in a row where it is (I actually went up to SC and visited this cab a year on, cool experience to see one of my builds in the "wild" so to speak) but when you approach it head on you don't even see the sides or seams, you just see that sweet 27" and that CP that goes all the way to the edges. It's a nice effect but could have been done better. Hell, I could have mitered it and then there would have been no seam at all but that would have taken waaaay too much doing.
Glad to see this thread getting a little more love, I still really favor this build. It was stupid fast but a lot of fun!
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I know I should ask Randy this question but any word on when the Omni2 Robos will become available to us regular schmos?
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I know I should ask Randy this question but any word on when the Omni2 Robos will become available to us regular schmos?
Pretty sure you can just email him the qty you need and he will burn them off for you. Would be nice if they were regular catalog tho.