Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: Savannan on December 13, 2012, 01:46:38 pm
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Hello All,
Every other winter I like to take on a project to cure my Cabin Fever blues(besides Snowbaording)... 2 years ago I purchased a MAMEROOM UAII cabinet (which I play at least 3x a week...LOVE IT), Last year or so ago I made a Multi-MORTAL KOMBAT Arcade Cabinet
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,121304.msg1286764.html#msg1286764 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,121304.msg1286764.html#msg1286764)
Didn't want to sell it but I needed money for my pooches chemotherapy treatments.
But this winter I would like to start building a Virtual Pinball Machine. I was opting to buy a kit, but the price is pretty expensive. I'm good at wood working and thought I would build a cabinet from scratch instead of buying a pre-fab kit. When I build something, Im VERY VERY VERY matriculate(not anal) in presentation inside and out.
Just have a few questions that hopefully someone could answer for me.
1) I was thinking of making a cabinet out of 3/4" oak 4x8 plywood (I believe its laminate..***don't quote me***). I would try to stay away from chrome metal parts but use black instead...I wouldn't use metal legs but some fancy wooden ones...Do you guys think a pinball machine made like this would look good or decent? or should I just paint everything black like all the others?
2) Any plans out on the net for a wide body pinball cab?
3) If you look at this youtube video : 32/19/42 Virtual Pinball Hyperpin Cabinet (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAxeYPCR_FE#)
He mentions that he uses a 19" LCD for the score area. It looks hes only using the upper half of the monitor.. Is this correct?
4) The lauch ball plunger : In the video he uses a push button to launch the ball. Is there a plunger that looks like the real thing but actually has a potentiometer so the further you hold back, the faster the ball launches like in a real machine.
Any help would be very appreciative
Thank You
Sav
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Nanotech sells a digital plunger and motion sensors for doing virtual pinball.
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I'm good at wood working and thought I would build a cabinet from scratch instead of buying a pre-fab kit. When I build something, Im VERY VERY VERY matriculate(not anal) in presentation inside and out.
In that case, be sure to matriculate at the VP Forums (http://www.vpforums.org/) to assist with your meticulous preparations. ;D
1) I was thinking of making a cabinet out of 3/4" oak 4x8 plywood (I believe its laminate..***don't quote me***). I would try to stay away from chrome metal parts but use black instead...I wouldn't use metal legs but some fancy wooden ones...Do you guys think a pinball machine made like this would look good or decent? or should I just paint everything black like all the others?
I like the idea of a wood pattern cab with black trim.
2) Any plans out on the net for a wide body pinball cab?
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,84133.msg1090265.html#msg1090265 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,84133.msg1090265.html#msg1090265)
He mentions that he uses a 19" LCD for the score area. It looks hes only using the upper half of the monitor.. Is this correct?
Looks like you are correct.
4) The lauch ball plunger : In the video he uses a push button to launch the ball. Is there a plunger that looks like the real thing but actually has a potentiometer so the further you hold back, the faster the ball launches like in a real machine.
Ah, the age old question of plunger vs ball launch button.
Nanotech plunger - Available here (http://www.ntekgaming.com/mot-ionkit.php) or here (http://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=39).
Good news: Designed to work perfectly with all FP tables and many VP tables.
Bad news: Some people over at VPForums have had problems with getting the nudge accelerometers properly calibrated for their cab.
Some tables like T2 used a trigger to time the skill shot, not sure how well that would work with the plunger.
Launch Button -
Good news: Works with all tables.
Bad news: Pull strength depends on timing.
Another option is to have both like the link in my sig.
Scott
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Thanks for your help guys...I know where to start....
but
Im guessing that link above is for a widebody plans..but the link doesnt work.
Thanks again guys!!!
Sav
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I'd stick with metal legs, personally. Anything else would probably just look odd.
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Im guessing that link above is for a widebody plans..but the link doesnt work.
PDF for the widebody is at http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=84133.0;attach=186655 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=84133.0;attach=186655).
Scott