Ark - I went back and forth on this, finally decided on the 74-z because of the sleek design and more physical interaction. If I built Dooku's swoop it would contain all the hardware, be a large immobile mass, have that really awkward front piece that splits the field of vision (no idea why it's designed like that) but would look great and be a lot of fun. The speeder is more of a challenge and I like the platform a bit better.
Have you tried using a hot wire for the foam over shaving?
Although i don't know what's worse, foam smoke or foam dust.... >:D
For rough cuts I'll do that but all finish work is done with a hand rasp or sandpaper.
I'm reusing the Super Hang-On throttle and brake. They are wired together. 4 wires total. Separate ground wires but the resistance wires switch between the two pots.
On Throttle Pot:
Lug 1 - Red
Lug 2 - Grd 1
Lug 3 - Green
On Brake Pot:
Lug 1 - Green
Lug 2 - Grd 2
Lug 3 - Red
I understand why it is wired up like this, so braking is actually controlled deceleration, but I'm not sure if I want to keep this configuration. Any pros and cons to splitting it up? SWRacer isn't wired like that but that doesn't matter as the throttle will be inert in that game. Are there other racing games that benefit from this setup? My gut says to split them into their own channels on the UHID so they assign independently in emulators. That way I can accelerate while I brake... which doesn't seem to be overly necessary but what do I know.
one analog input axis to two game axes is okay, two analog linput axes to one game axis is not.
Sweet project!!
I understand why it is wired up like this, so braking is actually controlled deceleration, but I'm not sure if I want to keep this configuration. Any pros and cons to splitting it up? SWRacer isn't wired like that but that doesn't matter as the throttle will be inert in that game. Are there other racing games that benefit from this setup? My gut says to split them into their own channels on the UHID so they assign independently in emulators. That way I can accelerate while I brake... which doesn't seem to be overly necessary but what do I know.
I'm picturing a 6 contact double throw relay used to switch U-HID connections for the pedals from dual axis to single axis.
Maybe use DaOld Man's Control Choose (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,117692.msg1247041.html#msg1247041) to switch to single axis for the games that use it?
I'm reusing the Super Hang-On throttle and brake. They are wired together. 4 wires total. Separate ground wires but the resistance wires switch between the two pots.
<edit for correct labeling>
On Throttle Pot:
Lug 1 - Red
Lug 2 - Black 1 (wiper)
Lug 3 - Green
On Brake Pot:
Lug 1 - Green
Lug 2 - Black 2 (wiper)
Lug 3 - Red
I understand why it is wired up like this, so braking is actually controlled deceleration, but I'm not sure if I want to keep this configuration.
Now i just want to make sure....
Your speeder isn't going to just be a glorified version of this:
(https://7mnhjq.sn2.livefilestore.com/y1pMFWHysIoGMzWDqCB_KJ1vg2EhX7ylesGNJuqeTUTe08vxh9sCOXEwCfyuBBfTCrCJaZ1H4j4yXV6u3O5B4oiyIdwrtIFfuhF/horse.jpg)
>:D
Doesn't matter, it's no longer a SHO and I'm rewiring the throttle and brake to be single axis. Wanna buy a SHO board? Still leaves me with the same single axis and dual axis control implementation question previously mentioned but let's say I already have two brake handles on hand.
:banghead: I missed where it said 4 wires. :banghead:
Just confirmed on pg 42 (top center) of the SHO schematic (http://www.gamesdbase.com/Media/SYSTEM/Arcade//Manual/formated/Super_Hang-On_-_1987_-_Sega.pdf) that the acceleration and brake 5k pots are wired as dual axis.
According to pg 39 of the manual (http://www.sega-amusements.co.uk/sites/default/files/star_wars_pod_racer_dlx_manual.pdf), SW Racer Arcade uses 2 throttles and 1 brake = 3 separate inputs.Correct, all of said hardware is on hand, brake is being wired to the single axis right hand brake as that throttle is not being used in SW Racer. Those throttles are being re-fabricated to control fore and aft handle bar movement and will selectively operate in tandem sampling only the right throttle for games where Y axis movement is required but retain the ability to operate independently for games where dual throttles are required (ie SW Racer, tank style games, and perhaps Wave Runner)
Pg 141, item 102 shows that the throttles use analog 5k pots.
Pg 146, item 101 shows that the brake uses a "PHOTO INTERRUPTER GP1A71A" which acts as a switch. No idea how it is wired, or if it is low level active or high level active.
1. Besides SW Racer, are you thinking about using other dedicated PCBs?Perhaps, depends on space availability later in the build. Read Gonk vs PLNK droid.
2. What physical consoles/games do you want to connect/run?None
3. What emulators and specific games do you want to run?
4. Are there any controls or parts that you definitely prefer to use for mechanical or asthetic reasons?Yes. >:D
Now i just want to make sure....
Your speeder isn't going to just be a glorified version of this:
(https://7mnhjq.sn2.livefilestore.com/y1pMFWHysIoGMzWDqCB_KJ1vg2EhX7ylesGNJuqeTUTe08vxh9sCOXEwCfyuBBfTCrCJaZ1H4j4yXV6u3O5B4oiyIdwrtIFfuhF/horse.jpg)
>:D
I'm not sure that, "Want to go for a ride on my speeder?" is the best pickup line.
If it does work, well....good luck.
Beats the hell out of moped ;D
Beats the hell out of moped ;D
Mopeds are like fat chicks. They're fun to ride until your friends find out. >:D
I dunno, some of the GameCon cosplay girls would probably love to take a ride on his speeder (literally, metaphorically, and possibly euphemistically) :)
Best not to think of it as you lowering your own standards, and more that you are raising theirs!.I dunno, some of the GameCon cosplay girls would probably love to take a ride on his speeder (literally, metaphorically, and possibly euphemistically) :)
True, but then again I'm sure it wouldn't exactly be the one you'd want on your 'speeder'.
the lines are blurring.....
Beats the hell out of moped ;D
Mopeds are like fat chicks. They're fun to ride until your friends find out. >:D
Quote of the ---smurfing--- year!
I'd hate to stub my toe on that, though!
Now I wonder who makes 1/8" wide T-Molding? :dizzy:
Wait a minute..... I see in the future someone making a regular arcade cab completely out of aluminum sheet! (No MDF).
Did this concept remind anyone else of the quote at 40 seconds in this clip?
Scott
It has been a while since a good update and if you're looking for pics and progress it will be a while longer. Here in the R&D shoppe we've been stagnated by back ordered parts. Things have started to trickle in and a few things are now being machined from scratch to meet special needs. In addition I started the Army Maneuver Captain's Career Course this week and am already buckling under workload. This project will continue to progress but at a slower rate. I will be off the net more as I focus on passing this important milestone in my career. Once I have some time to breathe and all my parts in I'll be out in the shop making it all happen. In the mean time please consider me on lurker status and I'll try to pop up as often as I can with my colorful off-beat potpourri of wit and conventional pseudo-wisdom. If you need me please shoot me a PM as I will still respond to all of those in a timely fashion. I will for certain be around to enjoy facilitating the BYOAC UCAs in a few months... and hopefully have something half decent completed by that time.
This is an exciting project.
We'll be producing a 1:1 scale R2 to hold the computer, projector, and sound system but this little rust-bucket will also sport a custom CP similar to the drink stations popular in such locals as Jabba's Barge and any black tie event lucky enough to feature an R2 unit.
We'll be producing a 1:1 scale R2 to hold the computer, projector, and sound system but this little rust-bucket will also sport a custom CP similar to the drink stations popular in such locals as Jabba's Barge and any black tie event lucky enough to feature an R2 unit.
My protocol droid translated this as meaning you're going to put cup holders on this thing. Can you confirm? >:D
I can see this thread being responsible for me getting caught up in a 1:1 R2-D2 build myself, I mean come on, who didn't want their very own actual R2-D2???
Wow, how big is this R2 unit going to be?
Here's the deal, I don't want buttons that aren't being used to be on the CP and I don't want duplicate buttons. It's the grail I'm after. You pick a game and the right buttons in the right layout appear on the CP. Eventually I think we'll get to this with haptic button morphing tech but that's a ways off from the home builder. I'm thinking about actuating six individual buttons. That way I can have none or all present and somehow get them into the SF layout, NeoGeo layout, MK layout, and then neat lines of two and three. I'd probably have to actuate 8 so I can get the middle button in the MK layout and the fourth on the Neo Geo - otherwise the layouts are too complicated as I'd have to have buttons moving in three directions rather than just one.
Here's the deal, I don't want buttons that aren't being used to be on the CP and I don't want duplicate buttons. It's the grail I'm after. You pick a game and the right buttons in the right layout appear on the CP. Eventually I think we'll get to this with haptic button morphing tech but that's a ways off from the home builder. I'm thinking about actuating six individual buttons. That way I can have none or all present and somehow get them into the SF layout, NeoGeo layout, MK layout, and then neat lines of two and three. I'd probably have to actuate 8 so I can get the middle button in the MK layout and the fourth on the Neo Geo - otherwise the layouts are too complicated as I'd have to have buttons moving in three directions rather than just one.
The feature creep has taken you. :scared
Wow, how big is this R2 unit going to be?
He's 1:1 scale. 18" dome and 40 odd inches tall.
The scale in that pic is throwing me, i'd have guessed those legs were pushing 50-60" on their own.
wow.
Those hoses were gold on the original! :hissy:
Ack! Where's your attention to detail, LeChuck!
;)
leg is missing a lamp shade on top IMO
Wise words about shop time and enjoying life Le Chuck.
My condolences about your friend. Way too young.
:cheers:
I'm so sorry to hear about the loss of your friend. You have my deepest condolences.
Godspeed to him and peace to his family.
AJ
!NERD ALERT!!NERD ALERT!!NERD ALERT!
!NERD ALERT!!NERD ALERT!!NERD ALERT!
Yeah . . . I'm a "nerd" . . . who knows how to use a search engine to find where the real nerds are posting a bunch of possible design options. :laugh2:
Why am I suddenly picturing a "Revenge of the Nerds" / "Star Wars" crossover comic?
Scott
!NERD ALERT!!NERD ALERT!!NERD ALERT!
Yeah . . . I'm a "nerd" . . . who knows how to use a search engine to find where the real nerds are posting a bunch of possible design options. :laugh2:
Why am I suddenly picturing a "Revenge of the Nerds" / "Star Wars" crossover comic?
Scott
I call dibs as Booger Solo!
That's not a bad idea, to upscale the scout trooper blaster, have to see how much redesign that will take.
In the mean time I've got two of these inbound now:
(http://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk/images/ha/hasbro-star-wars-energy-beam-blaster.jpg)
I went with these as practice bodies because they have a nice wide base on the grip and look to have the interior space to house the recoil - plus they look cool. They'll need some bits removed, some other bits added, and a hefty surface treatment to make them look legit but it's a fair start. What's nice about these is that if they don't work out they shoot silly string and I'm pretty sure my boys will go gonzo over them. ;D
I saved this to my phone the other day when I came across it (badmouth again I think) but haven't been able to find the thread to credit it.
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Speeder%20Build/5A4084AA-6B3D-4F20-A93E-27E4BEA00F68-19413-000032C6A52CF14F_zpsa91eb997.jpg)
I thought that diagram looked familiar. That's from an old thread: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,100607.msg1144773.html#msg1144773 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,100607.msg1144773.html#msg1144773)
My deepest sympathies for the loss of your friend Le Chuck, 29 is tragically young, it sounds like you guys had plenty of fun though.
Use a U-HID for the guns. It's pricey, but it handles everything, inputs and outputs.
MAMEHooker can control which motor is used and what type of signal it gets (with transistors or relays to step up the juice of course).
In that diagram, I have it wired to a joystick port.
It works fine in MAME, but with M2 and Troubleshooter2 the crosshairs don't move smoothly.
I think it's my interface. RetroRepair's seem to move just fine with the APAC.
Check out the video of his new positional gun cab on his youtube channel.
Bug him for his MAMEhooker scripts. ;D
Oh, just to clarify I'll still need the relays with the UHID right? Four of them right (five counting the speeder rumbler)? Those little bastages are crazy expensive it seems.
Got home and did some digging.
The guns have 24vDC motors and solenoids that aren't marked but based on how it is wired I'm assuming that they ran 24v as well. An internet search revealed that other taito guns have used a 5amp fuse...which I don't have a fuse setup for this rig at the moment so looks like i'll need to cobble one together. I found this (http://www.goodluckbuy.com/s-120-24-24vdc-5a-regulated-switching-power-supply-.html) power supply tho I'm not familiar or that comfortable with the vendor. I still need to hunt down a solid state relay. A schematic from the original game would be great but I'm coming up with nada. I would like to think that power supply can feed two solenoids and two motors at once, and hopefully I'll get a compatible rumbler for the speeder to defray costs. Sound good so far?
I also have started diagraming how I'm going to be wiring everything and I'll put that up for the smarties to stamp off on before I go trying anything.
Oh, just to clarify I'll still need the relays with the UHID right? Four of them right (five counting the speeder rumbler)? Those little bastages are crazy expensive it seems.
The trick will be insulating it enough so it doesn't rattle around and throw me violently from the speeder.
I'll go see what i got. Like I said, spare parts, not looking for money, other than recovering postage costs. I don't do much shipping, so I've no idea how much that would be, but it can't be much - these are small and light. I assume you're in the US, so maybe it'll cost a few bucks to cross the 49'th. This circuit, as per the post linked earlier, is triggered from a 5v source. If your trigger is otherwise, I'm not really sure how to adjust - I had MonMotha work me through the original circuit. I'm sure we could solve this easily, if it's an issue.
Having a quick browse of that old thread, I see MonMotha mention that the circuit is good to 7 amps, so I think you'd be covered when it comes to current draw.
otoh, if you're so inclined, you could see what it would cost to get the parts (digikey, mouser, etc) and build it yourself. I just took a quick look at digikey. The main bits, optoisolator and darlington, are about $1.30 combined. Even cheaper if you get 10 of each - which might be too much. Resistors are so cheap as to be slightly above free. Add a board to solder it all onto, and you're still VERY much less than $10 a pop. Regardless, my offer stands - I'm not saying all this to back out. I'll be back with a report on how many I could build with the parts I have lying about...
The trick will be insulating it enough so it doesn't rattle around and throw me violently from the speeder.
I'll give you $10 if you film this happening. >:D
I dont know anything about contactors (beyond the wiki article i just read). Sounds like they are just relays with specific properties. Can their coils be driven from a UHID/LEDWiz? (I asume they can, based on usage in vpins)
I've had no heat issues with the qbert knocker - it's a very brief on time (fraction of a second), and triggers infrequently. Doesnt get warm at all. IIRC from earlier threads, heat is only an issue where on-time is longer, and power draw higher - and then you just apply a heat sink and all is well. I think this would only be an issue if you run that shaker motor continuously for a stretch. But even then, I'd just monitor the heat of the tip107 and see if there is reason to be concerned.
I've checked my cache of parts: I have an abundance of optoisolators, perf board, but only 3 TIP107's. I have various other transistors which might be suitable as replacements, I'll have to research this.
If you're driving these with UHID outputs (or LEDWiz or similar), then we're good. Note that the UHID has a few ports with integrated resistors, so you should probably not use those.
I know nothing about relays but couldn't you use contactors like people use in v pins? Aren't they high voltage control switches? I got 8 24v ones on eBay for $35 shipped
Shipping costs, not surprisingly, relate closely to size and weight. If I can pack them in a padded envelope, and they don't weight too much, then we're talking ~$4-8. If it gets over ~1lb, the price jumps quite a bit (>$15). I'll put one together and weight it (or just the parts pre-soldering), to get a better idea where this stands. Of course, if 5 of them breaks the 1lb barrier, i could just send two padded envelopes at the $4 price point, instead of one >$15.
Pins on J1, J2 and J3 have integral resistors
As per UHID Specs (http://www.u-hid.com/home/cms.php?page_id=9):QuotePins on J1, J2 and J3 have integral resistors
The SSR's I was going to build would have included the same resistor on their input side. However, it's probably easier to use your UHID circuit as is, and leave out the resistor from the SSR, rather than switch pins. It's one less component to be soldered :)
Assuming black is gnd and red is +V, you may have to swap them around for these SSRs - they switch the positive side.
Oh, anybody know if a mouse counts as two of the 8 analog axes available in Win? I don't think it does but if so that will really jack with my plans.
Oh, anybody know if a mouse counts as two of the 8 analog axes available in Win? I don't think it does but if so that will really jack with my plans.
Sure does. Up, down; left, right. X and Y.
Any recommendations for remediation?Oh, anybody know if a mouse counts as two of the 8 analog axes available in Win? I don't think it does but if so that will really jack with my plans.
Sure does. Up, down; left, right. X and Y.
Any recommendations for remediation?Oh, anybody know if a mouse counts as two of the 8 analog axes available in Win? I don't think it does but if so that will really jack with my plans.
Sure does. Up, down; left, right. X and Y.
2 UHIDs. ;D
Edit. Read that wrong... I don't know jack about Windows' limitations on analog axes...
Control counts which can be configured:
Total 50 connection pins.
Max 8 analog axes on 50 possible pins (Windows limitation)
Max 32 Gamepad buttons on 50 possible pins (Windows limitation)
Max 8 Quadrature mouse devices on 16 possible pins out of the 50.
Max 3 Quadrature mouse axes (X, Y and Z, Windows limitation)
Max 50 keyboard keys on 50 possible pins.
Max 16 LEDs in any combination of PC or U-HID controlled. (USB 500 mA current limitation).
Max 50 low-current output drivers.
So hang on a second, if R2 is the control panel, where are you keeping his Joystick and how are you supposed to grab hold of it?
Found an okay deal on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-SSR-40DD-Covered-Solid-5-110V/dp/B009AQNBJW/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1363738811&sr=8-14&keywords=solid+state+relay (http://www.amazon.com/Amico-SSR-40DD-Covered-Solid-5-110V/dp/B009AQNBJW/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1363738811&sr=8-14&keywords=solid+state+relay)
DC to DC 40amp max. I'll be pushing 5amp so that should cut down on the resistance somewhat negating my need for the $6 heatsink? Can I get a ruling on the field? BobA or Ken, are you in the house? $10 a pop isn't exactly a steal but I think it's reasonable to just do that for all the solenoids and shaker motors.
So, I'm at about $80 in parts on top of what I've already got in... not bad I suppose. Turns out the original guns will be the cheapest part of this component project ::)
Well, somehow I remember your original comments about doing this and then missed this thread. Great work man, keep it up.
You should team up with the Vulture Pod guys. You two could make things out of MDF that would make Vanilla Ice weep with joy.
So hang on a second, if R2 is the control panel, where are you keeping his Joystick and how are you supposed to grab hold of it?
I am thinking this..
I showed my wife the image of your DIY R2D2, her response was OMG! She's sharing that image with all her Uni crowd as an example of good design (from a DIY perspective). My son who is a total Star Wars nut can name the owners of most of those weapons by sight ::).Wow, I'm flattered. Tell her thanks. If she wants to see some ground breaking stuff she should check out JoyMonkey's R2 builds (over on astromech.net). He is doing stuff with R2 that will make your head spin, much less R2's.
Not sure how you are coming on having SSR made but as a late answer 4 - 5 Amps is about the limit that an SSR can do with only ambient air to cool. If however you mount an SSR on an aluminum plate or chassis to use as a heat sink you can push higher amps without a separate heat sink.
If you are having SSR fabricated remember to heat sink the SCR or Triac.
Sorry about the late comment but only just got around to catching up on this thread.
and WOW WOW WOW
Jeepers you don't mess about.
I need to take a page out of your book.
Awesome work Le Chuck! :applaud:
SSR's in progress, UHID inputs + gnd on right
It's looking great...It's better to look at http://www.x-sim.de (http://www.x-sim.de) instead
Have you checked out http://www.x-simulator.de/ (http://www.x-simulator.de/)? They have some great motion simulator builds there.
Tronicgr there has built a couple Motion controlers and H-bridges. http://www.x-simulator.de/wiki/AVR_Motion_Controller_%28AMC%29_by_Tronicgr (http://www.x-simulator.de/wiki/AVR_Motion_Controller_%28AMC%29_by_Tronicgr) and here http://www.x-simulator.de/wiki/Dual_Mosfet_H-bridge_by_Tronicgr (http://www.x-simulator.de/wiki/Dual_Mosfet_H-bridge_by_Tronicgr)
Might be worth checking out for your build.
Can't wait to see this thing running.
I find your lack of building disturbing.Oh, I'm building...just all the wrong things :angry:
Switched themes just so I could bookmark. I missed the whole R2 part. Just awesome.
How much is he gonna weigh?
OMG, I have missed a lot in this thread!!!!!! I am so going to need to follow this! BTW, are you a 501st member?
dammit,.. less commission work and more building! ;D
Who has two thumbs and just spent a day off building a cat jungle gym at the wife's directing? This guy!
Pics of the cat jungle gym or it didnt happen (this thing better have t-molding and RGB lighting)
Pics of the cat jungle gym or it didnt happen.
Interesting. I didn't know you were going to put arcade controls on this. I thought that drink tray was going to be for cupolders. :cheers:
Learned some stuff. The guns. Oh the guns. They aren't going to work on this build. It looks, in a word, redonkulous.
Much better solution to do a separate build.
I love this project and the progress you've made. By the way cat's don't have owners they have staff :laugh2: . Is that an Addams family pinball I spy in the background.
Much better solution to do a separate build.
You're running out of signature room! ;)
That looks freaking amazing Le Chuck. The drink tray is brilliant.
Le Chuck your Wood working Skills are amazing. That is all. :notworthy: :notworthy:
Let's all just be honest. All I've accomplished is the creation of some rather pricey firewood at this point...and taken years of my life due to MDF dust inhalation.
You guys are funny ;)
Your lack of listening to my constant harping on and on about MDF dust is disturbing. Get your ass a mask boy.
Your lack of listening to my constant harping on and on about MDF dust is disturbing. Get your ass a mask boy.
Need to get a better one.
Need to get a better one.
If you were truly bad-ass, you'd get this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-1-Scale-M-A-S-K-Miles-Mayhem-Venom-helmet-/281093960502?pt=US_Action_Figures&hash=item4172817336 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-1-Scale-M-A-S-K-Miles-Mayhem-Venom-helmet-/281093960502?pt=US_Action_Figures&hash=item4172817336)
Signed up for the damn credit card to save 50 bucks. Gonna cancel that sucker in the first billing period.
(http://i.imgur.com/rhmh3bF.jpg)
Eh? Eh?
(http://pds15.egloos.com/pds/201001/07/97/c0056197_4b45758b2e110.jpg)
THAT'S NICE....BUT....ERMH.....WHERE IS THE CG??
;D
In seriousness....It's looking awesome man!!!! :applaud:
Ok. Stay with me on this one.
You could almost mount a small amplifier or sound control into R2's head with the volume itself sticking out to make it look like one of R2's knobs. Or somehow do this inside the body having all that empty space. Hope that makes sense. Also sorry for being "that guy" but how do you plan on routing the wires from the actual play buttons without everything sticking out and looking like a mess. Something tells me that you already have that in mind. :laugh:
i think it's begging to have one of those micro-projectors mounted in it for the "Help me obi-wan..." thing. Ok, it's not a real hologram, but u gotta make do with what you have
Imma go back to polishing this turd.
At this point it's really good looking from 10feet but has some rough edges at the 2feet vantage point.
This build sucks, I mean it doesn't even have any joysticks.
This build sucks, I mean it doesn't even have any joysticks.
:lol I know, right!? Maybe I'll add some, how many TrOn sticks do you think it needs?
Well lets see. You need a 4 way, 8 way, analog, rotating one, a spare and a trackball for all 4 players.....oh and a keyboard tray.....oh and 12 buttons each.....and an admin panel.... and a steering wheel, star wars yoke, paperboy handlebars duhhhh, periscope, dancepad and periscope.You forgot the shotguns for big buck hunter.
Oh
Cupholders.
Not surprising to hear this from me but...
Screw canon.
R2 never had frikkin' joysticks or buttons either but you are going to put those on without a second thought. You're designing something that has a specific aesthetic and continuity to it, don't compromise it just so Star Wars purists won't give you a hard time.
Yot - to be fair I revealed my intention to use joysticks and buttons on the tray back in the first R2 post (73ish), but I can totally see your point of view on the matter.
The tray already has a 7o slope so it's designed from inception to be a CP, just needing to figure out how to thread the needle.
Joel's opinion is both no surprise and also where I've been leaning - but I really like hearing from folks and seeing different ideas on how to handle things now that I'm at that stage of the build (thanks Scott, your feedback is always innovative).
Pffft I don't follow canon and look how well my stuff turns out...
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/15/a8y2anu3.jpg)
Joel: I've been working on a Stars War back tattoo with Jar Jar and Gandalf throwing tribbles at eachother, I'd like you to take a look.
Well lets see. You need a 4 way, 8 way, analog, rotating one, a spare and a trackball for all 4 players.....oh and a keyboard tray.....oh and 12 buttons each.....and an admin panel.... and a steering wheel, star wars yoke, paperboy handlebars duhhhh, periscope, dancepad and periscope.
Oh
Cupholders.
Well lets see. You need a 4 way, 8 way, analog, rotating one, a spare and a trackball for all 4 players.....oh and a keyboard tray.....oh and 12 buttons each.....and an admin panel.... and a steering wheel, star wars yoke, paperboy handlebars duhhhh, periscope, dancepad and periscope.
Oh
Cupholders.
Something like this?-----> Rototron MAME Cabinet (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RIT-YEjQsJI#)
The speeder will be the controller for SW Trilogy.
The speeder will be the controller for SW Trilogy.
All that work to just play a Jakks TV game? ;D :P
(http://www.jakks.com/_images/products/images/tv-games_star-wars-original-trilogy-1.jpg)
Le Chuck.
Hope I'm not offending you with my jokes. You do amazing work and I feel like I might have stepped on your toes with my past posts. Either way keep up the good work and I'll try not to hijack your thread in the future.
Le Chuck.
Hope I'm not offending you with my jokes. You do amazing work and I feel like I might have stepped on your toes with my past posts. Either way keep up the good work and I'll try not to hijack your thread in the future.
Le Chuck.
Hope I'm not offending you with my jokes. You do amazing work and I feel like I might have stepped on your toes with my past posts. Either way keep up the good work and I'll try not to hijack your thread in the future.
You must be new around here. Just think of LeChuck as your big brother. You'll get punched in the arm a lot, but at night, you can use his toothbrush to wash the toilet. :laugh2:
AJ
You must be new around here. Just think of LeChuck as your big brother. You'll get punched in the arm a lot, but at night, you can use his toothbrush to wash the toilet. :laugh2:
AJ
You must be new around here. Just think of LeChuck as your big brother. You'll get punched in the arm a lot, but at night, you can use his toothbrush to wash the toilet. :laugh2:
AJ
:lol
I just didn't want to come off as Annoying Childhood friend meme. Or worse Scumbag Steve. My wife says I have a humor that is an acquired taste. Maybe thats why she giggles when she sees me naked. :laugh2:
[Sam Eagle] Le Chuck may not be affronted by your ill-mannered commentary, but I, however, am offended that you insinuated that I suffer from a "Carpathian Kitten Loss". I, for one, am appalled by this degenerative behavior! To ensure that the quality and moral content of this thread is upheld, I demand you cease this repulsive behavior at once! Am I the only decent, upright, and normal one here? Why I remember a time when this forum was about decency and respectability! [/Sam Eagle]
...You're fine in my book. Keep on keeping on. Sorry if I gave you a wrong impression some how. Hugs, nohomo, etc ad nauseum.
Le Chuck. Did you just Joe Dirt me? I'm more worried about that than the man love. (no homo) :lol
Dome is ready for logics, holoprojectors, fan, lighting etc. Much better than before. (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/19/3ydy4u7u.jpg)
......Didn't clear coat yet ;D Progressive steel wool man.
That's just the base paint after sanding. Didn't clear coat yet ;D Progressive steel wool man.
This is just golden. :cheers:
R2Emu has been fitted with a restraining bolt to ensure he doesn't wander off saving the galaxy. Need to install the PJ and make sure it works through the lens, if not I can just pop it out. I took some shine off him as he didn't match the rest of the build, I think it's pretty seamless now.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/21/ehe2ahez.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/21/yjy5amup.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/21/mugamu3a.jpg)
R2 is looking a bit too pretty, how about giving him that 'been busy saving the galaxy' look
I definitely wouldn't do drink-holders on the CP with that opening for the fan on top. :scared
What's next, the CP or back to the speeder bike?
That 'Arcade Icons' looks out of place colorwise.
Just a thought; isn't the letter "M" pronounces "em" in English (I'm not a native speaker). so would R2-MU fit closer to the two letter naming convention those astromechs have while still sounding like "artoo-emuu"?
What have I gotten myself into lol.
Edit: That didn't take long. Name officially changed to R2-MU. You rock Felsir!Happy to contribute, loving this build!
I've never even seen Star Wars but I can certainly appreciate this build.
I've never even seen Star Wars but I can certainly appreciate this build.(not sure if serious)
I've never even seen Star Wars but I can certainly appreciate this build.
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b343/NovaReon/notsureifserious.jpg)
Griff's threads are one of the most derailed I have seen. And that is coming from a guy who derails his own thread from time to time.
I'm so high right now I have no idea where I am
I've never even seen Star Wars but I can certainly appreciate this build.
Holy f**k is it ever awesome.
WOW !
Griff's threads are one of the most derailed I have seen. And that is coming from a guy who derails his own thread from time to time.
I LIKE CHOCOLATE PUDDING!!!!
Might i suggest cocobolo?
Might i suggest cocobolo?
Gonna show pictures of this to people and say "I once owned that tap tower." :lol
Gonna show pictures of this to people and say "I once owned that tap tower." :lol
"See this R2-D2 kegerator? I messaged the guy that made it, to say 'nice job!' He actually said, 'Thanks!' How awesome is that??!"
Gonna show pictures of this to people and say "I once owned that tap tower." :lolThat you did. A piece of the legend.
I brought Bo Jackson a cup of water at a restaurant I worked at. Cup. Of. Water. Had ice in it too. Without that water, he might have died of heat exhaustion. So, I pretty much saved Bo Jackson's life. True story, bro!
My mother swears that Sean Connery felt her up while riding the London Underground in 1984. True story.
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/4BBC9116-845A-4756-AE18-1D494A626113_zpszxr73etq.jpg)