Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: WhereEaglesDare on April 07, 2010, 03:51:59 pm
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To Do List:
--Mount TV in Cab
--Paint Cab
--Put the new control panel together
--Get some art made for the panel
--Get a custom Marquee Made
--Fix Bulbs in Coin Door
--Get new plexi cut for the panel and for the Bezel
***START THREAD***
Found a decent deal and wanna go grab it but dunno if it will fit in my Durango and the guy says I can come measure it myself but it is 4 hours away and id be pissed if it didn't fit after I drive up there.
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Did it even have a dedicated cab?
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You: "Hi, I was calling about the cab for sale. How tall and wide is it?"
Seller: "You can come out to measure it yourself- I'm not going to."
You: "I guess you didn't want to sell it that badly, huh?"
:dizzy:
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I've seen them in "standard" Dynamos, a variety of conversions, Big Blues, showcases and candies. If it were a showcase, I'd bet he would say because those are a PITA to move and typically require disassembly unless you have a truck with a lift. Big Blue might be problematic for length, but so might any upright.
You really need to at least get a picture, preferably with some frame of reference for sizing.
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no normally I would, i passed on a MK2 300 dollar cab that looked like it was in good shape but the guy wouldnt send me better pictures of the CP and sides so I passed, but my son loves this game and so do I and I kinda want it, and as for the dedicated cab, I dunno, good question... probably not, just change out the boards and voila a whole new machine...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310211589279&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310211589279&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)
Here is the cab, I dont think its more than 6 feet maybe 6'3", you guys think the CP comes off?
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CP comes off, although you may need to get through the coin door to unlatch the panel clamps (which, if there are no keys means drilling).
IIRC that CP is held on by panel clamps that you reach via contortion through the coin door ... or was it bolted on ? I can't recall because I bought that cab for a friend and just loaded it into his pickup.
Someone will know ... common enough cab in the 90s
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if thats a 25" monitor, give or take about 30" wide and roughly 7-8' tall. Lying it in a Durango on its back, will fit if you have a celarance for 8' (lying on its back).
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if thats a 25" monitor, give or take about 30" wide and roughly 7-8' tall. Lying it in a Durango on its back, will fit if you have a celarance for 8' (lying on its back).
8 feet tall ???
The tallest cab I have is a Big Blue (which is taller than that cab) and that's only about 6'4".
The 30 inch width is pretty much on (28-29" is about right to keep clearance under 30").
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I know 8' was tall but I was going for making sure it fits in the durango with some spare.
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:cheers:
The challenge for him will be the depth of the cab on its' back -- I think he'll need to go on its' side (usual provisions for checking for loose parts, etc applies).
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good point , it may end up going on its side.... what parts will i need to grab and keep from going loose?
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Make sure the monitor is securely mounted and remove anything not bolted down from inside of the cabinet (a loose bolt could ruin your whole day).
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I was going to bring a flashlight, a dust buster (to clean it out to see inside, probably never been done) and a screwdriver or two, what else should I bring? :dunno
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I always bring a cordless drill (and spare battery) and a full bit set, including security bits, but I've only ever had to drill one lock when picking up a cab and never needed the security bits.
Straps can be helpful, just in case in case you need to tie something down (last cab I bought was when I specifically drove Mrs. Cheffo's car so that I wouldn't buy anything ... ended up needing to borrow a strap to secure my new Cheyenne cabinet).
Maybe an extension cord if you want to test it (in case he has moved it to make it "easier to load"). ;)
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blanket in case you have to lay it on the side
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You guys here are awesome, thanks for your help.
hes sending some more pics of the cab, but from what he says it is in really good shape, how much do those cabinets go for normally? is 250-300 too much? sounds good to me.... but i have no real idea.
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Almost impossible to answer (anything in this hobby is worth what somebody is willing to pay) and, particularly when you are asking folks like me, lots of people will say that $x is too much. I've seen MvC go for under $100 and over $500.
I don't think his BIN price is horrible, although it is high for this market. If you choose to turn around and sell it, just don't expect to make your money back. Two of my first three cab purchases ran about the same amount. I still have and regularly play them because the games are fun.
If the cabinet and the monitor are sound and your son and you love this game as you suggest, then I would probably buy it in your place.
There is nothing better than squaring off old-school against your son in a game you can both dig into.
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How heavy will it be? I know its mostly air, but that monitor has to be heavy and the cab itself must be kinda, could two people get it up a few stairs and move it around or will I need a hand truck?
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That looks almost exactly like my cabinet. Here's my random list of thoughts: Control panel should unbolt. You'll need to open up the coin door to unlatch the control panel lid. The control panel will open up with the lid opening towards you so that the joystick will hit you in your stomach. I want to say my cab uses hex head carriage bolts. Height is max 6'6". Width (without control panel) should be around the width of a standard door opening. That's why you can remove the control panel. In regards to the weight, get that other person and the handcart to help. Typically a cabinet will have a flat bottom with only four contact points (like a chair or a table) or it might just rest on it's bottom (like a bed mattress on the ground). Either way, it'll be a beast to move (all that air is heavy) and you may not want to damage your floor whether it's wood, carpet, or other. I guess it's about 150 - 200 lbs including the monitor (20lbs). The cabinet is the heaviest thing, followed by the monitor. Word of warning, I suck at guesstimate weight, with me being muscle-challenged. The only things that might come into play when transporting is making sure the monitor is "bolted down" and removing the change bucket. Check the inside floor of the cab too for loose crap. Someone said (from what I recall) to transport it on it's side; just tip the beast on its back. Make sure you have keys to open up the back and the coin door. You'll need to modify the control panel (CP) since all major Capcom fighting games have 6 buttons. Buttons are 1 1/2 inches round (not 100% sure) and you'll want to get a Forester bit (I think that's what they are called) to drill a new hole. Look on the internet for a generic Capcom 6 button layout template for "proper" hole. There are several threads here that will help you drill that whole through the CP as well as the plexiglass.
Sorry for the random stream-of-thought post but I'm tired and sore.
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Thanks a lot, and about the 6th button youre right, i knew going into this if I was ever gonna get UMK3 to play right on it I would need a run button.
I measure the back of the truck from front seat to back door, back seats sat down and its 6'3" so it will be close, may have to strap down the back door and cross my fingers...
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Hey, so about this cab, what type of board would this use? JAMMA? If I wanted to make this a MetalSlug or a UMK3 cab could I other than using MAME?
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You sure can. Since you have MvC already installed, you will know it's a JAMMA game. Think old school NES. The cartridge is the arcade game board and the console, power supply, controllers, and TV are the arcade. Now there are always exceptions to the rule. You'll need to check the pinout for the boards. Most Capcom games have a "kick harness" that handles P1's & P2's LK, MK, HK separately. I think UMK has a different pinout.
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OKAY, it is finally in my house. I got it and it's mine. Get home and find that the colors look really faded and dark. I found the lil control panel for the monitor but it doesn't seem to have a brightness adjustment. Any help? Also I see that it has a big blue plastic box under it, that must be the actual game huh? What is that called for when I'm looking to get another game to put in it. Attached are some pics.
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OKAY, it is finally in my house. I got it and it's mine. Get home and find that the colors look really faded and dark. I found the lil control panel for the monitor but it doesn't seem to have a brightness adjustment. Any help? Also I see that it has a big blue plastic box under it, that must be the actual game huh? What is that called for when I'm looking to get another game to put in it. Attached are some pics.
On the back of the monitor there should be some additional dials, there will be one that will allow you to adjust the brightness (its only going to need a real slight turn) and get it where you would like it. If it starts to fade out again over time your going to need to consider a cap kit for the monitor.
The Blue cart is the Capcom Jamma B board which can be switched out with other B boards. The Black board that it fits into is the A board. Your going to need to consider possibly swapping out the battery in that B board to ensure it doesnt "kill" itself and leave you needing to get it Phoenixed.
Also, glad to see you got it home and it looks good.
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Brightness on arcade monitors is called "screen". (though technically it's also adjustable via the intensity of red green and blue, which have seperate controls, but you don't usually want to mess with those)
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so by adjusting the red, blue, and greens I can get it a lil brighter? and thanks for all teh help, so the Jamma B board box has an internal battery that I guess allows it to hold programming? What type of battery?
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Let me find you some information, I would type it all out but im working at a DR site tonight and these Dell keyboards suck for actually typing on.
Edit 1
http://www.jammaboards.com/store/cps-2-battery-replacement-kit/prod_65.html (http://www.jammaboards.com/store/cps-2-battery-replacement-kit/prod_65.html)
They last about 5 years and they do make battery holders however I have read horror stories about the battery coming just loose enough to where it will kill the board still.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CP_System_II (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CP_System_II)
Will give you some decent information about the system capcom used with those boards.
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The Black level adjustment will adjust the brightness of the screen. Be careful with it though. You don't want to adjust the brightness and contrast so high that it causes blooming. That can damage your monitor over time.
I suggest reading some tutorials about how to properly adjust black levels and contrast, and then using the service mode of the game and color pattern test.
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That would be so awesome! :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
I also noticed when I adjust the V it makes it taller to take up teh screen but as I get closer to the bottom it starts to double over on the bottom...
Where would one get a service manual for this cab? The inside of the cab has a 1991 date on it but the game wasnt released until 1998, also whoever has been servicing this thing need to get fired, is it normal to leave unshielded wires laying around? I'll have to post pics of the condition of the wiring later, I guess they figure if it works and no one will ever see it then why bother...
How do I get into service mode?
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Instructions are attached!!
Im just going to add onto this and attempt to not double post, are you saying that the verticle is not taking up the whole screen by default or when your playing with it to play with it?
And if you didnt see in my post above eagles I added another link for you to check out.
Here is a vid that should help you understand the basics of monitor adjustments although I am having trouble finding one on proper black / contrast adjustments...
http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/2009/10/14/adjusting-an-arcade-monitor/ (http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/2009/10/14/adjusting-an-arcade-monitor/)
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Thank you sir... Free Play ON!
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Glad I can be of some help ;D I am actually going to fire it up and play it some here at work. >:D
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so what is the difference between cutoff and drive when it come to the RGB?
edit.... nevermind... sorry, watched the video but i needed to read the accompanying text too.
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so what is the difference between cutoff and drive when it come to the RGB?
edit.... nevermind... sorry, watched the video but i needed to read the accompanying text too.
That help clear some of it up?
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You bet, my wife if making me come to bed and stop fooling around with this thing, but wow. Thats Operators Manual helped out a lot too, the game is suppose to have 6 button for each player, but only has 5 for whatever reason, its missing a medium kick on eachl but now I can wire it in, add a button and voila! Thanks so much.
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I noticed that after taking a second look at it, I was wondering if maybe they had a MK board installed at one point and if maybe under the overlay the "proper" 6 button layout is still there or not.
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...intrguing idea... I did some research last night. It was a DataEast Cab and was originally made in 1991, so from what I can find it was either a TMNT or a Captain America Cab, I think it was the Captain America cab because on the bottom of the CP you can see where all the holes were filled it and Captain america was a 4 player cab with 2 buttons each and when I looked at it, that is exacty was there use to be... I think I'll call the 800 number on the back and see if they will search the serial number for me...
Also, just so I know, where did you find that manual? Where is the online treasure trove of free manuals?
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Every major source of manuals that I know of is listed in the Restoration page of the Wiki (http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Restoration)
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Thanks, so from what Im reading and gathering from others this is a JAMMA B board set, right? So something marked just JAMMA wouldn't work? If Im looking on eBay what do I look for to find one to match this setup...
How much would my board go for if I wanted to sell it? I saw one on ebay for 100, but it was BIN, sounds a bit much to me.
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You're getting ahead of yourself with Jamma boards. Capcom likes to control their IP. That's why so many of their games have a suicide battery. (http://cps2shock.retrogames.com/suicide.html (http://cps2shock.retrogames.com/suicide.html)) In my opinion, Capcom, in order to cut down on the cost of manufacturing, made a motherboard (The A board) that will be able to accept other daughterboards (B boards). If you decide to go to other Capcom CPS2 games, you can just swap out the B boards. It shouldn't cost you $150, but only $50 for a new B board when you were a arcade operator.
In regards to what is the value of the B board, the simple answer is, it's whatever you can get for it. I have a Tokio game board. It was one of my favorite games. I was able to get it for $20. I would have paid $45. I have Super Puzzle Fighter 2 Terbo, got it for $75. I really should have only paid $50, but I wanted it for my wife. (We have it already on GBA and the "rare" PSX version)
Getting back to JAMMA, you'll need to replace the A board with a new game. I have a Killer Instinct game that will take the Jamma connection, but I have to do some special wiring for the kick buttons. The Jamma standard is 4 buttons per player and only two players (I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong). Four player Capcom games will fully use the kick harness for the other inputs. If you have a basic game after 1985, the games should be interchangeable from the A board to another game.
By the way, don't bother calling DataEast. They folded up back in 2003.
Other links :
http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?letter=M&game_id=8636 (http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?letter=M&game_id=8636) (get a copy of the manual and learn about the hidden characters)
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Thought I hadn't seen anything from DataEast in a long while, figured I just got of the loop... :dunno
I adjusted the screen with a mirror and I tuned the colors contract, BLC, etc but it still looks dim with a light in the room, with lights off it looks better, but not as good as you would expect. Someone mention I could get a kit for it, to replace the Caps, it has a 2006 date on the chassis, so it could very well be a "refurbished" screen.
I did notice it looked like the sides with curving in, if I remember right that means the Flyback is going out, or it could be the Amplifying transistor... Wish I still had my Oscilloscope :(
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And the color of the board is important also, blue is US, green is JP, gold / yellow is Asia and orange is Brazil I think. The A boards are region specific so if you plan on buying additional B boards they need to be the blue US ones unless you buy a region specific A board to go with w/e region you would like. Maybe you should take some pics of the monitor and post them over in the monitor section and see what those wizards say about it. I still think I would start with a cap kit but I am far from as skilled at diagnosing monitors like those guys.
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You bet, my wife if making me come to bed and stop fooling around with this thing, but wow. Thats Operators Manual helped out a lot too, the game is suppose to have 6 button for each player, but only has 5 for whatever reason, its missing a medium kick on eachl but now I can wire it in, add a button and voila! Thanks so much.
Congrats on finding a great game! I remember reading my first operators manual. It was for Mortal Kombat II and every page was magical!
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UPDATE, adjusted it again and it looks great with the lights off, but with the lights on it looks not great but a lot better and now it is totally playable with the lights on, id think it would be but it is 11 at night so have to see tomorrow.
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Here is a pic of the cab sat up with the tube adjusted with my new Nintendo Sign also!
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looks good and I love the sign. You have a chance to check out the CP and see if the other holes are there yet? I am totally curious about that.
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Thanks.
I hadnt taken it off yet, On the inside though you can see the holes, they were filled, but they were there.
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Nice sign! Where'd ya get it? ;D
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Nice sign! Where'd ya get it? ;D
He found it at an Antique Mall.
Read the whole story, plus video, at
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=101631.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=101631.0)
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Nice sign! Where'd ya get it? ;D
He found it at an Antique Mall.
Read the whole story, plus video, at
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=101631.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=101631.0)
Thanks, yea found it at the antique mall, I was looking for some real cool Superman action figures at the place and spent about an hour looking and I found this one shop there that had both the sign and the totally awesome superman figures, the figures were only 60 cent each, we got a bunch of them, I let him get as many as he could carry. The guy works at Toys R Us and he says he has a ton of the old video game nintendo memorabilia like the pins and other display pieces. I got his number, Im gonna get a few hundred together and just wipe his collection out :) :)
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Okay, update time... I'm parting it out and going to turn it into a MAME Cab. This is why I have been asking a lot of monitor questions. I don't know if I wanna put a TV in it or repair the arcade monitor yet...
Over in the B/S/T Forum you'll find the thread if interested, I'm selling the JAMMA boards, the harness, the control panel, the marquee, and probably the screen.
So, now I'm starting the renovations. Here is what I have so far on the new control panel. It ain't much yet. Gonna be two player with 7 buttons on each player. Gonna try to get the plexi for it this week and get the sticks and buttons put in.
Still looking for art concepts for it... Any good ideas? Got a few ideas.
- Ghost Busters - World War 2 (Day of Defeat)
- Fall Out 3 - Team Fortress 2
- US Presidents (George Washington Choke Slamming Lincoln)
- Terminator 2 - The Original Power Rangers from the Early 90s
- The Tick
- Ronald Reagan Vs. The Commies
Reagan with a shirt and tie on, sleeves rolled up, two M-16s blowing away the Reds, leaning a stack of skulls. Kinda like a Rambo style.
Just a few idea I have had... any other good ones out there or your vote on which I should use?
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Okay, had to take a break but here is an update. I was able to sell the CPS game, harness, and marque, so now I had enough to get the parts I needed for the CP. I could not decide what theme or colors to use, so my son picked it out for me, he picked blue and orange. They are on their way from GGG! I'll let yall know about my experience with him when I get them.
I cleaned up the coin doors and mechs. I painted the door and cleaned the mechs, had to replace one of the switches, but now all four mechs work great. I applied power to the lights using an ATX Power supply and found two of the bulbs are burned out, gotta order new bulbs, going to by autozone to see what they got.
I got the PC put together: 2GHz P4, 160 HDD, 512 MB RAM, NVIDIA 5200FX S-Video Out, running MAME 0135 with a current rom set with all the art and avi snaps. Decided on GameEx because of it ease of setup, its ability to run on a lower end machine, play internet radio in attact mode, play movies (which I likely wont do much of but it is awesome that I could) etc,. I did test out, MameWah, HyperSpin, MaLa, and AtomicFE and spent a day or two on each. Hyperspin would have been a close second, but it requires more of a PC and I dont see why someone would buy a 500 dollar PC for a MAME Cab when most games will run on a P3.
I am going to replace the screen with a TV, I have a 27 in that I may use, still looking for a better option, I have a week or two until I want to have it all finished up.
Still havnt found art that I like yet, a poster would be easiest but the panel is 40 x 15 so that wont work, I got to get something specially printed.
I still have to get Plexi glass for both the Screen and the CP.
I dont know if I am going to redo all the TMOLDING or not, I bought some of the Cool Blue for the CP, we'll see how it works out.
Planning on adding some AIMTRAK Guns also, but Im gonna wait til I get the machine mostly running and put together.
Any ideas or suggestions?
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Here is the completed and powered up CoinDoor. The orginal bulbs were for a car's instrumentation panel. (#161 $5 for a two pack) so I put in generic BRAKE lights! ($2 for a two pack) Yea, they are a lot brighter than the originals. So now it is done, scratched off the stickers, painted it with flat black and then some super high gloss clear spray paint. Rewired the whole thing, changed the terminals out, and fixed it so the left 2 are for a player 1 coin, and the right 2 are for a player 2 coin. All four are operational.
Edit: And I got a new lock for it, havnt installed it yet, until I get the cab finished but thats another thing.
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Started tearing it down, posting pics for other Noobs like me can see what the inside kinda looks like.
1 - Screen with Wood Bezel
2 - Screen without bezel, I guess it will pull out through the front
3 - Marquee Holding Bracket
4 - Without the Marquee
5 - Kick Harness For Malenko
6 - Marquee and CPS2 Cart - Again for Malenko
7 - Counter Could I rewind the numbers on this counter?
I am going to pull the monitor out and put in a TV so I'll post pics of that as well, looking to do it tonight.
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slammed the new blank panel on there to make sure it fits... like a glove!
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One vote For Reagan VS Commies!
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One vote For Reagan VS Commies!
Id love to that one, gotta find someone who will do the art though
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Okay installed a 27" sharp TV. Had to make bracket extensions for it to mount correctly. I put the bracket on the back of the tvs bracket so if the bolt came loose the bracket would hold it up. I also added a shelf to hold the TVs component board. Everything went fairly smooth, had trouble getting the anode back into the tube.
I rigged the power button to stay pushed down using a peice of cardboard and a ziptie. Looking at it i need to trim the cardboard it is too close to a transformer... can you say fire?
Now I just gotta wait on my order from GGG to get here, it was shipped on Thursday so, maybe I'll get it tomorrow, I hope! I could be playing some MK3 tomorrow night!
1 - New TV Installed
2 - TVs New Mounting Brackets
3 - Shelf and component board
4 - TV power button on the board
5 - Held down with cardboard and ziptie.
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Wow, that TV is a perfect fit. :cheers:
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almost... Its 27" and looks a billion times better than the arcade monitor that was in there. I think I may fix the monitor to put in a cab in the future. I still got the power supply and the JAMMA cable so all I need is a board.
Perhaps a cocktail cabinet is in the making with this one... :)
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Okay, Update.... got my new panel working, blue and orange theme. Using Keywiz, I am having some issues with it, but overall it is working. I created a Back To The Future Theme for GameEx, with movie sounds and such. Put in my fixed coin door, etc. Its working and I love it. Its been running now for about a week, but my wife made me put up this above ground pool and I hated every second of putting that thing up, its was such a pain. Anyways, here is some pics, still got to get some artwork put together for it, I have the t molding, but havnt put it on cuz im waiting for the artwork.
I added two admin buttons on the back of the panel, the top one is the SHAZAAAAAM button and the other is my pause, shazamed speed up game button. Tab, Enter, Esc, are all on the top [anel when you push the SHAZAAAAM button.
If interested in the BTTF theme for GameEx just PM me your email.