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Started by steved61 - Last post by steved61

1 Sinden Lightgun with Recoil and Holster       $175.00

2 Aimtracs Lightguns with Recoil, Holsters and Power Supply  175.00 Each  or Both for $300.00


Paypal Only

Started by TheRetroCarrot - Last post by TheRetroCarrot

Here's a visual for brainstorming. I'm sure there is a perfect material for this I'm not thinking of. Just needs to be flexible, snap back, and most importantly not scratch the finish on the bezel.

Started by saint - Last post by TheRetroCarrot

 :)

Started by TheRetroCarrot - Last post by TheRetroCarrot

The gap is always there to allow the bezel to rotate entirely, I might put some weather stripping brushes/sweeps in the gap, but I'm not really bothered by it. It's more visible in the photos because the back panel is off and I have a light shining back there, with the back panel on it's all black. The bottom gap is larger than it needs to be, that ended up being a design error. I had to have the acrylic for the control panel laser cutting outsourced so I decided to live with it. Typical Canadian markup of 2000% wanted 200 bucks for a tiny sheet of acrylic and nobody locally would cut it... Meanwhile Al from Pixelcade cut me one for $20 and threw it in with my marquee order.   

If anybody has an idea for a material to fill the gap I'd love to hear it. The weather stripping sweeps tend to be a lot stiffer than I'd want, I need something very soft and flexible enough to allow the screen to rotate in and out without being scratched.

Started by TheRetroCarrot - Last post by emphatic

Nice work. Does the bezel sit flush in horizontal mode? Or is that gap as seen in the last picture (Dodonpachi) by design?

6   Project Announcements / Re: Project Too Big and Spinnyon Yesterday at 06:56:29 pm

Started by TheRetroCarrot - Last post by TheRetroCarrot

Big update day. As the project is now finished outside of adding games and 1 3.5mm-RCA cable that is too short to be cable managed.

Monitor is mounted and cables routed successfully. Used the original PCB mount on some 2x1s and then a 5lb york iron plate to counterbalance so it wouldn't spin on it's own.


Pixelcade marquee and speakers installed, busted off a tab from one of the tweeters but managed to rip out the driver and resolder it without damaging the visible portion of the speaker:


Some simple stoppers at each end of the rotation


As cable managed as I care to do, everything is routed out of the way other than the 1 cable mentioned prior. Once I have that I'll tie everything up a bit better:


Made a 3d printed mount for the amp. Extended the volume pot so I can mount it on the back panel once that goes on:








The screen ended up working out excellent. The mistake with trying to correct purity using magnets was actually putting them on the back of the shield. This worked while running, however as soon as you restarted the TV it would undo your work for some reason. Flipping the magnets to the other side of the shield worked perfect. It now has very good purity on both horizontal and vertical positions. The screen also does not need to be turned off for the degauss circuity to recharge, so long as it's been running for 5ish minutes you can simple turn it off, grab the bezel and spin the whole screen, and turn it back on.

For a front end I'm using big box and just designed a "Confirm Orientation" screen with some graphics which is actually platform selection. I have games separated into vertical and horizontal games in their respective platform. I've then made a fake vertical theme to go along with a modified version of (I forget the name of the theme I modified...................). I ended up doing the vertical theme a bit different since theme videos are always horizontal and I didn't want to remake them for each game.

Lots of adding games to do, and marquee banners to make now. Configuration is very easy now that I have a couple games setup, I can mostly copy configs via RDP and then just tweak screen position and controls on a per game basis from the arcade when I add them.

Overall everything worked out better than I could've hoped. Things I would change would be less gap behind the control panel for the screen to spin, the top only has about .25mm clearance, the bottom has way too much. I would remove all hard edges from the side panels, it turned out okay but the t-molding would definitely sit better with some slight curve to the top edges. Not something anyone would ever notice though.

Also I ordered 43cm Taito official stools since my control panel height is the same as a candy cab. This might have turned out to be a mistake... The screen is simple so massive that at 43cm eye height is a little low in vertical orientation. I'll probably just make some risers with cup holders/wallet basket/ token holders to put under the stools. Or resell them as much as that pains me. It'll be a couple months still until they arrive.

Started by saint - Last post by TheRetroCarrot

 :)

Started by saint - Last post by TheRetroCarrot

 :)

Started by saint - Last post by TheRetroCarrot

 :)

10   Monitor/Video Forum / MS-2933 Monitor Shiver issueon Yesterday at 03:04:51 pm

Started by grendelrt - Last post by grendelrt

Looking for a starting point before I pull the monitor in my blast city (it sucks and takes 2 people haha). I have this ripple\shiver that vertically works its way down the monitor. I have had this show up in the past and go away on its own before. I also have noticed if I unplug the cabinet and let it discharge over a couple days it goes away. Took a video, you can see it if you look on the right edge. Its worse when running in 640x480 and has some lines that appear like tearing. Also doubt this is settings thing, but that would be nice if its something tweakable to fix. https://youtube.com/shorts/kZX9LtKxdCI?
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