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Started by TheRetroCarrot - Last post by pbj

It runs Gauntlet Legends 400%?

What a time to be alive.


 :dizzy:

Started by TheRetroCarrot - Last post by TheRetroCarrot

I'm having an odd issue with just these 2 games. If I disable auto frameskip and set frameskip to 0 it runs at 400% speed and audio stutters all over the place. Auto frameskip makes it playable but it takes a little bit to stabilize and I'd much rather avoid it.

The PC should be able to handle these games without issue I'd think, it's a 9700k, 280x, 32GB ram. Any idea what I'm missing here? I've come up with nothing through my googling and forum searches.

Thank you.

Started by rogerxyz - Last post by rogerxyz

I ran the experiment - same PC, graphics card, GM, rom, etc., just plugged into a different TV. This one showed the same thing, so I'm doubtful it's the TV. It's not that it's failing to sync at any of the ~15kHz modes, all of them sync, just a smattering of the video modes show this issue where the image just stops drawing mid-scanline before the last line. However, some progressive 240±10 line modes do this and others don't!

Further, as I said, it appears this way on another set. I've adjusted the vertical shift so you can more easily see the bottom.



I could even try this on an LCD next, I think I'll show the same thing...

So here's also logs running under GM 0.227 and GM 0.256. I can try with the latest 0.265 but I have my doubts anything will change. At this point I've reverted to the ntsc timings.

The logs show the video is supposed to be 256 lines for this game, and.... well you know what? I'm not surprised 256p won't draw every line on a consumer NTSC TV....  ::)

Switchres: normal (384x256@55.017605)->(2560x256@56.000000)

Maybe it really is as simple as that? The video mode will sync but there's no coaxing a consumer NTSC set to display 248 lines? This modeline comes out to 15.68khz.

Again referring back to the video https://drive.google.com/file/d/19tWdLeG8p_jrBBt_NsxS0sWWoReADpQX/view:

All of the following modelines SYNC. The ones marked with X don't draw the bottom-most line (i should see a white border). The ones marked with O draw the top and bottom white borders. (Again, in this video, the service menu has been used to artificially compress the v size so that we can be certain that the image is not being cropped.)


O 240x192@60p 15.656khz
O 240x200@60p 15.656khz
O 248x192@60p 15.671khz
O 256x192@60p 15.655khz
O 256x224@60p 15.655khz
X 256x240@60p 15.655khz
X 256x248@60p 16.131khz
X 256x256@60p 16.619khz
O 320x224@60p 15.660khz
X 320x240@60p 15.649khz
X 320x248@60p 16.132khz
X 320x256@60p 15.745khz
O 336x224@60p 15.659khz
X 384x240@60p 15.655khz
X 512x448@60i 15.693khz
X 512x480@60i 15.693khz
X 512x512@60i 16.647khz
X 544x248@60p 16.138khz
O 640x200@60p 15.661khz
X 640x480@30i 15.685khz
X 640x480@60i 15.680khz
X 680x510@60i 16.593khz
X 768x512@60i 16.654khz

X 2560x240@60p 15.661khz
X 2560x248@60p 16.140khz
X 2560x256@60p 16.619khz
X 2560x448@60i 15.691khz
O 2560x464@60i 15.691khz
X 2560x480@60i 15.691khz
X 2560x496@60i 16.170khz
X 2560x510@60i 16.590khz
X 2560x512@60i 16.649khz


Is this expected, that some modes will sync perfectly but depending on the monitor, the bottom scanlines will simply not be reached?

Started by samco - Last post by ThatOneSeong

Looks really nice. If it truly does support the diamond IR configuration then maybe I'll give it a try in my next lightgun build.
It will support diamond layouts, but the main focus will remain the two lightbar configuration.

Started by coyote640 - Last post by B3rnie

@MammaJamma
I'm also working on a machine and can help you Pin-out that wiring from the scoring holes.
The the yellow area is where those score holes pin to.  Which ones do you need?

Has anyone found a replacement chip for the 8pin dual drivers?

 I , well ,  did a stupid and put 120v on the wrong pin.. . Pop'ed a bunch of stuff. Working through it all now, finding what I blew up.
I noticed while trying to fix the "no release balls solenoid" that the ball counter data line and 120v triggering the Noid we're together in the same 4 core cable. I had one 4 core wire and one 2 core wire at the ball release noid. I tried moving the pins at the connector ( I have a fancy tool that can release the pins out of the connectors) and did not triple check that the swap was correct. Needless to say, I blasted the 5v line with 120v... sadness.  I had all sorts of chips pop, and stink filled the air.  It was a sad day.

Started by samco - Last post by TapeWormInYourGut

Looks really nice. If it truly does support the diamond IR configuration then maybe I'll give it a try in my next lightgun build.

Started by grendelrt - Last post by grendelrt

I'm not one to normally just suggest throwing parts at a monitor... but, this is one of those issues you see where throwing in a capkit IS the thing to do here.. This monitor is getting on 30 years old now... change the capacitors on the chassis.

capacitor lifetimes are measured in HOURS not years, with some of the best electrolytic caps having 10,000 hour lifetimes (just over a year of continuous use) before they drift beyond their specified % amount.

capacitors (especially tantalum capacitors) are used in monitors to filter power primarily... but they are also used to time when to start and stop the deflection circuits to properly start the beam scans and whatnot... if the caps are getting old and are out of their designed spec... their charge up times and discharge times aren't accurate enough and the picture starts wandering all over the place and doing odd things.

find yourself a ready to install "capkit" for your monitor from a reputable company... theres a few arcade oriented companies that have put kits with instructions together for purchase.
Yup Yup that's my first line of defense, just wanted to make sure it wasn't something specific when I pull i out other than a cap. I have already recapped my spares, I cant remember if I did this one at the time. I do have a kit for it I think sitting around, its my fav chassis to use since it trisync and autosync. Guess I need to set some time aside for a full recap :/

Started by grendelrt - Last post by lilshawn

I'm not one to normally just suggest throwing parts at a monitor... but, this is one of those issues you see where throwing in a capkit IS the thing to do here.. This monitor is getting on 30 years old now... change the capacitors on the chassis.

capacitor lifetimes are measured in HOURS not years, with some of the best electrolytic caps having 10,000 hour lifetimes (just over a year of continuous use) before they drift beyond their specified % amount.

capacitors (especially tantalum capacitors) are used in monitors to filter power primarily... but they are also used to time when to start and stop the deflection circuits to properly start the beam scans and whatnot... if the caps are getting old and are out of their designed spec... their charge up times and discharge times aren't accurate enough and the picture starts wandering all over the place and doing odd things.

find yourself a ready to install "capkit" for your monitor from a reputable company... theres a few arcade oriented companies that have put kits with instructions together for purchase.

Started by flybynight - Last post by bandicoot

yes you can contact me or NJZ3 ;)

Started by shponglefan - Last post by RandyT

But also not really, he says it  will still need a PS5. The PS5 will use a steam software as a receiver from your pc to play the game…Which by the way will make your games look like ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---. This video is over 2 months old and I still have not heard any updates.

Only reason this is happening if it ever does is because the playstation VR was and is a failure.

No.   :laugh:  You will need an extra box, unless you already have an RTX 20 series or other GPU with a VirtualLink port.  If Sony has enabled this functionality in the firmware, you can expect such a HDMI-to-VirtualLink device to follow from them to support the connection.  Game streaming on most local networks is barely playable.  Doing this with VR would be a non-starter. 

*EDIT* Apparently, the native connection to the PS5 is just using it's USB-C Gen2 SuperSpeed port.  The only difference between one of the 20-50 dollar PCIE cards on Amazon (depending on the number of ports you want) which offer this, and VirtualLink is possibly the power delivery capabilities.  If so, an external supply and a passive connector/adapter might be all that's required, with no need to do any fancy video transmogrification.

According to Wikipedia, there are 278 released and/or upcoming titles for the PSVR2.  For a "failed" device, I'd say having that much compatible content in the first year of it's existence is pretty good.
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