The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: jangelj on October 08, 2019, 02:07:58 pm
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I acquired a Golden Tee 2k with a GWK7193 in it. The game doesn’t work, so I’m MAMEing it. I bought it for the caninet, and it had this monitor in it, so I figured I’d try to use it. I do not know if the monitor works.
I built a PC with MAME and have games in it. I bought a GBS-8100 to convert vga to crt.
This cabinet did not have an isolation transformer, so I put one in, and hooked the 8100 and PC up and fired it up for the first time. The monitor turns on, but barely displays a picture. And that’s with brightness turned most of the way up.
In the attached pic you can see a very faint windows desktop and the 8100s menu overlay. So it’s getting a signal, but looks terrible.
This is my first arcade game, and I know very little about them, but am willing to learn. I know I can get a LCD, but the thought of playing on a crt really appeals to me (if possible).
The other pic is of the chassis. Notice the white around the caps? Is that the likely issue and would replacing all the capacitors likely fix it?
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Know this is old, but if you're like me, sometimes projects get shelved a while.
That converter you're using had a PDF online I glanced at. It stated:
"Question: Screen has black areas, or the screen is very dark to almost black.
Answer: Adjust the "Clamp sp" and "Clamp st" settings. Keep the "Clamp st" lower than "Clamp sp"
Also, when I installed an ArcadeVGA card into the PC for my MAME cabinet, I seem to recall it states that some arcade monitors would need the signal boosted. I got lucky using a WG K7400, and it supposedly takes as low as 1 Volt video input signal.
I believe ALL Wells Gardner monitors are supposed to be able to accept this low of a signal, so I wouldn't think this is your problem. BUT, I couldn't find the output signal power of the converter you're using, so you could look into this product if you think the signal needs boosting: https://www.ultimarc.com/arcade-vga-and-video/arcadevga-accessories/arcade-monitor-video-amplifier/
Also, that white gunk glopped at the bottom of your capacitors holding them to the PCB is from the factory to strengthen the connection. If it's unbroken (hard to see in your pic) it's basically a tell-tale sign your chassis has NEVER been recapped before, as most people would simply scrape it off when they install the new caps. So, it's not leaking electrolyte.
Good luck.
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Know this is old, but if you're like me, sometimes projects get shelved a while.
That converter you're using had a PDF online I glanced at. It stated:
"Question: Screen has black areas, or the screen is very dark to almost black.
Answer: Adjust the "Clamp sp" and "Clamp st" settings. Keep the "Clamp st" lower than "Clamp sp"
Also, when I installed an ArcadeVGA card into the PC for my MAME cabinet, I seem to recall it states that some arcade monitors would need the signal boosted. I got lucky using a WG K7400, and it supposedly takes as low as 1 Volt video input signal.
I believe ALL Wells Gardner monitors are supposed to be able to accept this low of a signal, so I wouldn't think this is your problem. BUT, I couldn't find the output signal power of the converter you're using, so you could look into this product if you think the signal needs boosting: https://www.ultimarc.com/arcade-vga-and-video/arcadevga-accessories/arcade-monitor-video-amplifier/
Also, that white gunk glopped at the bottom of your capacitors holding them to the PCB is from the factory to strengthen the connection. If it's unbroken (hard to see in your pic) it's basically a tell-tale sign your chassis has NEVER been recapped before, as most people would simply scrape it off when they install the new caps. So, it's not leaking electrolyte.
Good luck.
By the looks of it this chassis has been capped but with low quality caps (e.g. Bob Roberts style caps). But that probably isn't going to cause the display issue here. You can adjust brightness/black level in three places on a 7000. The remote board has contrast and brightness and the flyback has a screen control (brightness). Sometimes it takes some fiddling to get these levels correct. Also color balancing the pots on the neck board may help. To me, this just looks like it's out of adjustment.