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1   Main Forum / Re: Analog signal to a USB encoder?on Today at 07:51:24 pm

Started by mimregi - Last post by mimregi

Thanks for the info, StefanBurger.   :cheers:

Looking into this further, it appears that some expert users have turned specific UNO boards with the 328P processor into a USB HID device, but the Uno has to have a 32u2 in the chipset and the program you use to do it is very unstable and hard to use.   :banghead:

It's much easier and way more reliable to stick with the Leonardo family of boards that use the 32u4 processor for this application.


I'm going to try this:

Wish me luck...

2   Main Forum / Re: Analog signal to a USB encoder?on Today at 07:49:34 pm

Started by mimregi - Last post by mimregi

    additional thoughts on Arduinos:
    ...Thats not possible with ATMEGA328p devices.

    OK, that makes some sense, I appreciate the extra info from you both- very helpful.

    Leaving my current options:
    • Fight a (probably losing) battle against the arduino uno I happen to have
    • Use the USB encoder I have and either
      • Fight a (probably losing) battle to get the encoder to recognize an analog input OR
      • Live a whammy-bar-free existence (for now)
    • Buy the actual right board for this project

    Started by Howard_Casto - Last post by Titler

    There's probably a right way to do it, but... a program like RTSS will help throttle the game to 60Hz. Or any other game, to any desired limit.

    I was able to externally limit it via the Nvida Control Panel from my GPU's drivers; it's under NCP > Manage 3d Settings > Program Settings and under the "Outrun 2006: Coast 2 Coast (or2006c2c.exe)" options (NOT the FXT2.5 exe) then setting "Max Frame Rate" to 60 and toggling Vertical Sync to On.

    I am not sure if this is how I tackled it under the old install, as the program was already there, but it works, and on my first try I was able to get AAA rankings on two bloody hard courses for the first time, so I'm claiming it was the prior frame rate not me that sucked, he he...

    I was able to finally get the controls to stick, after getting also hit with the constantly moving menu bug; the issue seems to be the Menu Up/Down input, which was reading input from elsewhere and then being incredibly oversensitive. Recalibrating the gamepad, then try, try, trying again to remap the menu input finally allowed me to get a clean config. I'm still not sure where it's manually saving the actual input, so people can get at them and manually reconfigure (and none of the hacks or mods seem to tackle it either, so perhaps they don't) but my guess is still it's somewhere in the SavedGame folder, as copying that between clean installs replicates the broken controls for both FXT and the default client.   

    4   Main Forum / Re: Analog signal to a USB encoder?on Today at 05:28:37 pm

    Started by mimregi - Last post by PL1

    Thanks for the info, StefanBurger.   :cheers:

    Looking into this further, it appears that some expert users have turned specific UNO boards with the 328P processor into a USB HID device, but the Uno has to have a 32u2 in the chipset and the program you use to do it is very unstable and hard to use.   :banghead:

    It's much easier and way more reliable to stick with the Leonardo family of boards that use the 32u4 processor for this application.


    Started by firedance - Last post by javeryh

    Looking good.  What kind of set up puts the marquee on top like that?

    Started by myazgan - Last post by myazgan


    Started by Calamity - Last post by psakhis

    Hello everyone i tried to run Yaba sanshiro  latest emulator i think this is the best emu for Saturn.

    The emulator doesnt launch for me unfortunately, Win 10 64bit   , AMD Radeon R9 380  Crt emudriver 2.0 win10

    Desktop res 640 x 480 60i    ,  tried to play around with emu settings fullscreen res set to 640 x 480 .

    Hope this emu will run with crt emudriver , emu is still progress being worked on.

    (with dolphin the video plugin set to opengl results in crt being distorted -> i set it to directx 11 for now)  it doesnt like opengl
    Forget that emulator and use emu4crt

    Best Saturn emulator is Mednafen and not his libretro core...

    8   Everything Else / Re: So ... 3d Printers....on Today at 03:32:37 pm

    Started by Howard_Casto - Last post by BadMouth

    IDEX build has been half apart and back together a couple times.

    I had to flip both x steppers back over so they hang under instead of sitting on top.  I do not understand, but I could not get the kinematics to work correctly with them on top.  I reversed motor direction in software, homing direction, physically reversed wiring, etc.  All combinations either lead to having to home toward the front or move 0,0 coordinates to the back.  I gave up and redid the back assembly and belts, etc.   :-\  It is still irking me.

    Trident Z axis conversion is complete and everything is working correctly.  It really opens up visual space (and real space) on the sides.  Original plan was to incorporate spool holders on the sides, but there was enough room in the back.  They are far enough back that oozing filament can't drip on them.  Only problem is that the bed has to be all the way up or down to load filament.  Swapping rolls in the middle of a print may not be possible.  The spool holders are mounted with removable t-nuts, so nothing is set in stone.  There is just enough room on the side for a 5lb roll from Keene Village Plastics, but it would be super close to the bed.  I had a piece of textured ABS that was the right size for the bottom panel, so I went ahead and added it.  I will probably change it to aluminum composite later.

    Still haven't wired the toolheads.  Not looking forward to it.  The silicone wire I planned to use droops instead of arching like an umbilical.  It will take a lot of wirres and I have not found the perfect toolhead connector yet.  I happened to come across a new BigTreeTech canbus pcb for "introductory pricing" which was not much more than simple "Voron" connector PCBs go for.  So I ordered a pair.  I will be in over my head with the canbus stuff, but it would mean only having to run 4 or 6 wires to the toolhead instead of 17.

    I was also tempted by this Biqu hotend kit hat uses a proprietary "USB-C" cable for all the hotend connections.
    I would have to order a bunch backup cables though, because you probably won't be able to get them in the future.

    Not much else is going to happen until I wire the toolheads so the actual IDEX testing can begin.
    I am fiddling with the camera mount and lights to avoid working on the wiring.
    Was going to start on the insulated enclosure, but all the local big box stores are out of 1/2" polyiso.  Might break down and use 3/4....

    9   Everything Else / Re: So ... 3d Printers....on Today at 03:04:48 pm

    Started by Howard_Casto - Last post by BadMouth

    Did some more tinkering....

    A few weeks ago it was unseasonably cold and I had a few failed ASA prints.  It was cold in the basement and chamber temps were only getting to the mid 30's (celsius).
    So I finally ordered a pair of 50mm fans to tinker with a PTC heater that I had purchased long ago.  Also orderd a 500w personal heater from amazon warehouse for $15, figuring that it might be a simpler and cheaper route.

    Supposedly the aluminum fins on these heaters are carrying 110v when they are active.  I couldn't get anything with the meter, but am treating them as live just in case.  There is a cover over the ceramic portions, which may be where the angry pixies are.  PTC is labelled 500w.  Harbor Freight clamp meter says 3 amp, so probably more like 360w.  Fans are 12.6 cfm each and seemed to provide enough airflow.  It took 12 minutes to heat the build chamber of the 350mm Voron V2.4 from 27 degrees to 50 (No other heat source.  Bed wasn't on.)  It took forever to reach 51 degrees, so I think any further increases would have been minimal.  I am not looking to get it hotter than 60-65.  All the small fans in the printer are only rated for those temperatures, and the linear bearings (which have plastic races) aren't rated for a whole lot more. 

    There are a lot of considerations to work through before I would feel safe leaving it unattended.  The fan must be on when the heater is, so it would be bad practice to rely on software to control the fan.  The fans I am currently using are 24v.  They could be connected directly to the power supply which would make them run whenever the machine's 110v power switch is on.  Not sure if that is better or worse than using a 110v fan.  If something caused the fans to stop, the area surrounding the PTC must be able to tolerate the heat until a thermal fuse or relay is tripped.  Relay probably isn't the way to go as it would reset itself when it cooled down and then the PTC would just heat up again.  There are probably other things I haven't even thought of yet.

    Not sure how it could be incorporated into the 2.4.  Best thing I've come up with is a blower and ductwork attached to the outside of the back panel with the PTC mounted about where the exhaust outlet currently is.

    I worked out an idea for the new IDEX build where it could be mounted underneath the chamber in the center with ductwork pulling air from the sides.  I am thinking heat rises in the center.  Cold air falls, but is pushed to the outer edges by the heat rising off the buildplate.  The only problem I could think of with this setup (in addition to crap falling in the ducts), is that on really tall prints the bed will get close to the PTC heater and that might trigger a "bed heater not behaving as expected" automatic shutdown.  Dunno, but I've arranged things so the possibility is there.  The ductwork would be a pain to print.  The picture of it under the IDEX is just of it sitting in place.  Nothing has been done as far as adding it. 

    10   Artwork / Re: Adding art to already built panel on Today at 02:00:55 pm

    Started by steelermame - Last post by jaywv1981

    If you had a photoshop template you could use it to design the art you want and then send to a vendor to have an overlay UV printed on either acrylic or aluminum.  Then once you get it from them drill holes in it for the buttons/sticks.   Since you don't have one you'd have to do all the measurements manually.  If you need help with it let me know.
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