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I was stationed in Kingsville and Beeville TX

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

Sorry to bother you again, I'm still considering to exchange the Angelina for the virtuo, but I'm thinking on keeping the Angelina amps. By any chance, do you think its easy to modify the blue amp to make it work with reguralr sound, I mean without the red box? Or since it comes with a stand speaker, it should have the red box already?  Thanks for your time.

i don't know how the stand is configured exactly... they are made by a 3rd party.

the amps are the exact same amps... they just stuck 2 of the modules in the same box.

with using a red DI box, you don't need to change the amps at all... it's literally how they interconnect.

the "red" DI box has RCA input and and Ethernet cable balanced output. then, the other end of the cat 5 plugs right into the amp. you have to supply 12v to the DI box to power it. you can buy a pre-made power adapter that plugs right in, or just wire on a 12v power brick or other supply to the appropriate places on the board.

the "BLUE" DI boxes convert the balanced audio ethernet back into standard RCA (for instance, connecting from the IO board zones to an external house system)

since you won't be using the IO board, you won't need any blue DI boxes unless you want to convert your computer audio to balanced with a red box...send it long distance over an ethernet cable, then convert it back to RCA to hook up to a house system.

one red DI box can feed audio out to 2 amps when externally powered, which is enough for the amp in the virtuo. (since it's 2 amps in one case) if you need feed a DA415 blue amp as well, you'll need another red DI box for that amp.

the DA415 amp will likely need the caps in the amp serviced. they all do.

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

Sorry to bother you again, I'm still considering to exchange the Angelina for the virtuo, but I'm thinking on keeping the Angelina amps. By any chance, do you think its easy to modify the blue amp to make it work with reguralr sound, I mean without the red box? Or since it comes with a stand speaker, it should have the red box already?  Thanks for your time.

So Mega Man 9 and 10 essentially have "native" PC ports via Mega Man Legacy Collection 2. But something really weird is going on with their resolution, even beyond the forced 16:9 aspect ratio with borders.

I was able to get it down to 224 pixels tall, and you could tell that the vertical scaling "locked" to 1:1, but there was absolutely nothing I could do to get horizontal scaling to lock to 1:1.

The horizontal resolution should be 256. But even with me trying to adjust the horizontal resolution to allow the extra 16:9 space (then essentially cropping out with short timings in ArcadeOSD), it seems there was nothing I could do to get 1:1 on the horizontal axis.

It's been a while since I experimented with this, I just now remembered to post about it. But my best guess from that experience: it needs to be hacked to actually get it to display correctly at 256x224. Hack in what I way? I don't know. There seems to be some kind of intermediate frame buffer being used that does not line up with the game's native 256x224 resolution

I ended up just playing the games in Dolphin, where you can get a 1:1 lock on 256x240 (letterboxed 224p). Only problem being there was likely a small input lag penalty for emulation, which you could probably eliminate by playing the PC versions instead

Amazing work as always. I almost wanna build a new ginger now.

I've had a look at the OVIE source code and I got the original source code to compile and I think the important part of the fixed version.

I looked through the code and I think I know what I need to do to be able to lock the pose and position of the headset but I need to get the overlay program to be able to read the current data and then send it through to the driver dll to be able to make it stay at that saved position.

I will also have to work out how I can do all the user interface side of that in the overlay.

I think it is all possible but it'll take me some time to work through.

Groovy. 

So I've been doing a bit of testing with Virtual Desktop + modified OpenVR2Key and so far things are working pretty well. I've got an AHK script to make clicks on the edge of the screen convert to right click, which works with all the games I've tried so far, but it still has a few kinks to iron out.

M2 has 16:9/4:3 cursor mismatch, but calibration seems to fix it. Mame has the same issue (after setting mouse/lightgun handling to win32, none of the other options worked), but I haven't worked on it yet. Teknoparrot picks up the clicks as "unknown device", and works on the couple of games I've tested so far.

Demul (with nomousy), Model 3, and PS3 emulation all seem to work with no issues so far.

I designed and printed these grill covers for the rear vent holes on the back-box:

Here you can see the angled aluminum glass retainers which stop the back glass from moving:

Back-box assembly completed:

Visual Pinball running 'The Web' re-worked back-glass artwork that I did. The DMD window sits pretty well in the cutout I think:

I mentioned earlier the excellent viewing angle performance this monitor has:

A closer view, monitor is sharp!:

That's it for the Back-Box for now. It only needs artwork applied, brackets, retaining clips and speakers installed.
In next steps I'll be painting the main cabinet and fabricating a (scaled down) coin door panel.

I still use one of the most versatile FE out there, even if no more updated: FEEL
https://feelfrontend.altervista.org/it/
It's opensource now.