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I've got something to work now. I had been trying to get it to work with the OVIE overlay/desktop program but I couldn't work out how to change the UI. They use Qt which I'm unfamiliar with and it sent me in circles.

So I ended up modifying the client_commandline program and the driver instead.

You will need to copy the driver_00vrinputemulator.dll into the steam folder:

C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\SteamVR\drivers\00vrinputemulator\bin\win64

I would rename the one that will be in there.

Then with the program I have made two batch files, save.bat and replay.bat

The commands they run are:

client_commandline savepose 0 vrdeskHMD.txt

and

client_commandline replaypose 0 vrdeskHMD.txt

0 is always the device ID of the HMD and the filename can be changed.

Use save.bat to get the current position and rotation of the HMD and put it in the txt file. Then replay.bat will use that and start the driver replaying the saved pos/rot. It will do so until a key is pressed

OVIE can be used to enable offsets after the replay.bat is replaying. But only the last set of values, i.e. "Driver Offsets" should be changed. This will allow for some adjustments. Keep in mind they won't do anything to Virtual Desktop unless you hit the orientation button (or F4 key).

You can save the position again with the offsets being enabled by running save.bat but make sure replay.bat is still running when you do. After that you can disable the offsets, stop replay.bat and then run it again when you want

Oh thanks!
It seems that win7 is a little more picky than win10 when it comes to releasing memory.

thx,resolved!

There is one analog pedal in the MAME controls which I assumed was throttle, but when the game started it acted as a brake and the car auto accelerated.

Yes, the pedal is for throttle.

Go into the MAME Analog Controls menu and change the pedal 1 reverse setting.


Scott

Hey folks, been a long time.

Is it possible to set inputs for lots of games at once? Not all games, just a lot of them. (I need to remap 4 player games on my 4 player CP). Like are there any 3rd party utilities that allow this?

I tried manually just creating .cfg files but they get overwritten if the <input> fields aren't perfect. And each <input> has attributes like tag, mask, etc that differ between inputs for different games.

Also I considered using ctrlr files for these 4 player games except I'm using LEDBlinky which expects you to use only one (or zero) ctrlr file(s) for everything. So I can't just swap between different ctrlr files.

Anyways is there any way to do this? I'm sure I'm not the first person that has had to change control inputs for lots of games at once. Just surprised there doesn't seem to be an easier way that I can see.

Decided to put Roadblasters in my driving build and maps well to the buttons I select, and along with adding a bit of FFB centering spring tension from Boomslangz, is perfectly playable. The only point of confusion I have is the pedal. There is one analog pedal in the MAME controls which I assumed was throttle, but when the game started it acted as a brake and the car auto accelerated. I haven't been able to find any information on the original control mapping so I don't know what function the pedal has in the original machine, or if it is supposed to auto accelerate. And uf anyone has it working in MAME with a wheel and pedals, please let me know what you mapped. Thanks.

Thanks for your help! Over the weekend I had some time, started from scratch and now it is working! 

Now, I've been using this for a while and have a few callouts to anyone who is thinking about designing a similar one.

1. If you're going to build a 4-player cab like mine, then 1 big mistake I made is with how the display is inset. This is more of a 3-player build now even though it supports 4 players. If you look closely, the display is about 4 inches into the cabinet. The IR LEDs then surround the screen. Well, the lightguns can only see all 4 IR LEDS if relatively in front of the screen. The ~4-inch inset of the display causes the sides to act like flaps that block the IR. So if you are too far off to the side, then only 3 sensors will be visible. Only 3 people can visibly stand in front of the screen and see all 4 LEDs.

I should have cut the sides in more so that they're flush with the edge of the screen.

2. soldering the gx16 was pretty tight since it needed to accommodate wire that was thick enough to handle 24v at ~3amps. Between the sockets, cables, and lightgun, it means that you're going to be soldering 16 tiny ends that barely fit into the casings, and then make sure that there are no shorts. I'd still do it again because I think it's worth it, but it's probably the most tedious part of the build.

3. I got the Streamdeck partially because I thought that I could use it for keyboard events as well. I.e., have all of the Dreamcast buttons available to navigate game menus and whatnot. Unfortunately, the thing does not support raw keyboard events. It sends system events. This means that emulators which rely on raw input (such as Flycast) cannot use the Streamdeck to send keys because it either support SDL or raw input, but not both. Emulators that support SDL are ok though.

Not too much, but I mostly wanted to call out #1 since it's a pretty important defect.
 

Well, i just need to install a new lock and we can call it a day. Thanks Lilshawn for all the help, could not have done this without you.

So, whats the damage? Here are the various costs. I want to be clear that I set out to make something similar to those "commercial" cabs that people are making. I also want to play newer lightgun games at 1440p and higher.

The reason I am putting the costs here is because I know a lot of people are probably seeing these on Youtube and also see how much is being charged. Well, here is what it costs me in parts. I had all the tools already so no pricing on things like that. Keep in mind that I also use a lot nicer hardware that those cabinet builders, especially the display. The structure itself is of better materials as well. You can look at components that I used and determine where costs can be saved.

For example, you can get a TV display for half the price. I did not want to cut a hole for a remote IR sensor, and also I wanted free-sync at 4k. So I chose a screen that uses wireless tech for the remote and also supports a 120hz refresh rate without screen tearing. It's a gaming display and I have zero regrets on it.

You also don't need an acrylic bezel. I personally love the sheen and look. You can just use hardboard and cut a hole in it, which runs around $20 for a 4x8' sheet.

Finally, the GUN4IR lightgun costs are not included either. I hacked up arcade guns which cost me about 300$ each total. But you can mod toy guns for like $40 if you want basic guns.


Total cost: $3565

== CABINET ==
$ 310 - Wood (plywood, framing, base)
$ 150 - 1/4 (48"x48") acrylic for Bezels + Control panel
$ 120 - Materials (screws, bondo, paint, sand paper, rollers+brushes, felt, etc...)
$  35 - T-Molding (T-molding.com)
$ 320 - Full Artwork prints
------------------------------
$ 935


== CABINET COMPONENTS ==
$ 580 - 43" Main Display (Samsung NEO G7)
$ 400 - 28" Active Marquee Screen (VSDISPLAY 28 Inch 1920x360 IPS Stretched)
$ 210 - Sony SS-CS5 speakers + AIYIMA A07 Pro TPA3255 Amp
$  40 - i-Pac2 (T-molding.com)
$ 130 - Stream Deck (ebay)
$ 120 - odd & ends (USB cables, gx16 connectors, brackets, power socket/switches, wire, led strips, etc...)
$  25 - 6 LED PushButtons (Ulitimarc).
------------------------------
$1505


== COMPUTER ==
$ 190 - Motherboard - MSI Pro Z760 WiFi
$ 190 - CPU - 12600kf or 12600k
$  30 - CPU Fan - SE-224-XTS
$ 400 - Graphics - 3070 ti (ebay)
$ 100 - Power Supply - Corsair RM750e 750 Watt 80 Plus Gold
$  90 - Memory - TeamGroup T-Create Expert 32GB Kit CTCED532G6000HC30DC01
$  70 - Harddrive - 1TB Western Digital Blue SSD
$  30 - Windows 10 Pro (International OEM License)
$  25 - ATX Test mount frame (aka the "case")
------------------------------
$1125