Recent Posts

I'm not one to normally just suggest throwing parts at a monitor... but, this is one of those issues you see where throwing in a capkit IS the thing to do here.. This monitor is getting on 30 years old now... change the capacitors on the chassis.

capacitor lifetimes are measured in HOURS not years, with some of the best electrolytic caps having 10,000 hour lifetimes (just over a year of continuous use) before they drift beyond their specified % amount.

capacitors (especially tantalum capacitors) are used in monitors to filter power primarily... but they are also used to time when to start and stop the deflection circuits to properly start the beam scans and whatnot... if the caps are getting old and are out of their designed spec... their charge up times and discharge times aren't accurate enough and the picture starts wandering all over the place and doing odd things.

find yourself a ready to install "capkit" for your monitor from a reputable company... theres a few arcade oriented companies that have put kits with instructions together for purchase.

Yup Yup that's my first line of defense, just wanted to make sure it wasn't something specific when I pull i out other than a cap. I have already recapped my spares, I cant remember if I did this one at the time. I do have a kit for it I think sitting around, its my fav chassis to use since it trisync and autosync. Guess I need to set some time aside for a full recap :/

I'm not one to normally just suggest throwing parts at a monitor... but, this is one of those issues you see where throwing in a capkit IS the thing to do here.. This monitor is getting on 30 years old now... change the capacitors on the chassis.

capacitor lifetimes are measured in HOURS not years, with some of the best electrolytic caps having 10,000 hour lifetimes (just over a year of continuous use) before they drift beyond their specified % amount.

capacitors (especially tantalum capacitors) are used in monitors to filter power primarily... but they are also used to time when to start and stop the deflection circuits to properly start the beam scans and whatnot... if the caps are getting old and are out of their designed spec... their charge up times and discharge times aren't accurate enough and the picture starts wandering all over the place and doing odd things.

find yourself a ready to install "capkit" for your monitor from a reputable company... theres a few arcade oriented companies that have put kits with instructions together for purchase.

yes you can contact me or NJZ3

But also not really, he says it  will still need a PS5. The PS5 will use a steam software as a receiver from your pc to play the game…Which by the way will make your games look like ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---. This video is over 2 months old and I still have not heard any updates.

Only reason this is happening if it ever does is because the playstation VR was and is a failure.

No.     You will need an extra box, unless you already have an RTX 20 series or other GPU with a VirtualLink port.  If Sony has enabled this functionality in the firmware, you can expect such a HDMI-to-VirtualLink device to follow from them to support the connection.  Game streaming on most local networks is barely playable.  Doing this with VR would be a non-starter. 

*EDIT* Apparently, the native connection to the PS5 is just using it's USB-C Gen2 SuperSpeed port.  The only difference between one of the 20-50 dollar PCIE cards on Amazon (depending on the number of ports you want) which offer this, and VirtualLink is possibly the power delivery capabilities.  If so, an external supply and a passive connector/adapter might be all that's required, with no need to do any fancy video transmogrification.

According to Wikipedia, there are 278 released and/or upcoming titles for the PSVR2.  For a "failed" device, I'd say having that much compatible content in the first year of it's existence is pretty good.

try to find a metal strip that has a rounded t-profile like this:



Paint it in the bezel color and just plonk it loosely at an angle into the gap. When rotating the bezel, pull it out, rotate the bezel, put it back in.

There are also black rubber car trim strips like this, no painting required, no scratching (like metal) as they are soft and flexible, and they come in different sizes. Some come with adhesive strips attached, if you want to make it permanent. If still worried about scratching, just elevate the strip so it sits very slightly above the bezel.

I had thought about converting this to use a joystick, but I’ve grown to appreciate the risk of overshooting prizes with no going back. In an arcade this would have sucked, but for home use the added challenge is welcome. So the buttons are here to stay!

The only thing that's kept me hesitant against rubber moldings like that is that if a tiny chunk of dirt gets in there it would probably be instant scratched bezel. It's cabinet paint which is supposed to be fairly durable, but I don't entirely trust any water cleanup product for durability.

You could use clear spar varnish (don't know if that's the correct term, google translate says so), the scratch resistant stuff that is used on boats.

or

try to find some adhesive stuff that closes most of the gap without touching the bezel

or

try to find a metal strip that has a rounded t-profile like this:



Paint it in the bezel color and just plonk it loosely at an angle into the gap. When rotating the bezel, pull it out, rotate the bezel, put it back in.

Okay so the game launches, I use the Switchres command to get 360x200@60hz, but then the Switchres shows it's running my normal desktop resolution.The game starts up fine and there are no error messages. I installed a modeline for 400x240 for my widescreen desktop, and it keeps settings it to that. Any ideas?

Nice! Keep us updated

Growing up, I always hated the claw machines with the forward and right buttons. I much preferred the ones with the joystick.