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Big update day. As the project is now finished outside of adding games and 1 3.5mm-RCA cable that is too short to be cable managed.

Monitor is mounted and cables routed successfully. Used the original PCB mount on some 2x1s and then a 5lb york iron plate to counterbalance so it wouldn't spin on it's own.


Pixelcade marquee and speakers installed, busted off a tab from one of the tweeters but managed to rip out the driver and resolder it without damaging the visible portion of the speaker:


Some simple stoppers at each end of the rotation


As cable managed as I care to do, everything is routed out of the way other than the 1 cable mentioned prior. Once I have that I'll tie everything up a bit better:


Made a 3d printed mount for the amp. Extended the volume pot so I can mount it on the back panel once that goes on:








The screen ended up working out excellent. The mistake with trying to correct purity using magnets was actually putting them on the back of the shield. This worked while running, however as soon as you restarted the TV it would undo your work for some reason. Flipping the magnets to the other side of the shield worked perfect. It now has very good purity on both horizontal and vertical positions. The screen also does not need to be turned off for the degauss circuity to recharge, so long as it's been running for 5ish minutes you can simple turn it off, grab the bezel and spin the whole screen, and turn it back on.

For a front end I'm using big box and just designed a "Confirm Orientation" screen with some graphics which is actually platform selection. I have games separated into vertical and horizontal games in their respective platform. I've then made a fake vertical theme to go along with a modified version of (I forget the name of the theme I modified...................). I ended up doing the vertical theme a bit different since theme videos are always horizontal and I didn't want to remake them for each game.

Lots of adding games to do, and marquee banners to make now. Configuration is very easy now that I have a couple games setup, I can mostly copy configs via RDP and then just tweak screen position and controls on a per game basis from the arcade when I add them.

Overall everything worked out better than I could've hoped. Things I would change would be less gap behind the control panel for the screen to spin, the top only has about .25mm clearance, the bottom has way too much. I would remove all hard edges from the side panels, it turned out okay but the t-molding would definitely sit better with some slight curve to the top edges. Not something anyone would ever notice though.

Also I ordered 43cm Taito official stools since my control panel height is the same as a candy cab. This might have turned out to be a mistake... The screen is simple so massive that at 43cm eye height is a little low in vertical orientation. I'll probably just make some risers with cup holders/wallet basket/ token holders to put under the stools. Or resell them as much as that pains me. It'll be a couple months still until they arrive.

 

 

 

Looking for a starting point before I pull the monitor in my blast city (it sucks and takes 2 people haha). I have this ripple\shiver that vertically works its way down the monitor. I have had this show up in the past and go away on its own before. I also have noticed if I unplug the cabinet and let it discharge over a couple days it goes away. Took a video, you can see it if you look on the right edge. Its worse when running in 640x480 and has some lines that appear like tearing. Also doubt this is settings thing, but that would be nice if its something tweakable to fix. https://youtube.com/shorts/kZX9LtKxdCI?

it does indeed have locktite on the screws... since you ordered without a plate, it's up to you to supply the machine screw and nut. Going on memory, I believe it is a M4x10 with a countersunk head (also called "flat") will fit just fine. (was going to check the sticks I have to make sure, but it seems i've used them somewhere already.)

Hmmmmm, OK, took it apart and see hex shapes so its all about a nut being under there. What about glue or locktight though? 

By the way i know some of you experts are laughing hard right now becuase its elementary stuff.

Hello guys. I have built 15 arcades, stand ups, bar tops, and cocktails using this site and all of you folks as resources. Been doing this so long that when I started LCD screens were not an option.

Anyway, I always use plywood control panels, but this time Im using an old metal street fighter control pannel with holes for american sticks. I am using JLF's this time around and bought some conversion plates from Paradisearcade to do so. The sticks I ordered were without plates because I didnt need the stock ones.

Do I need ot take this whole thing apart to put nuts under the black frame. I dont see threads on it. its plastic and would strip out so ill asume thats the case. The m3 screws I orderd seem small. I went to the hardware store and m4 seem goofy to, heads are too small. Someone said glue or locktight is involved also. Could someone give me a point in the right directions plaease. It would be a big help.

I sent a PM to njz3 and bought one through paypal. This was a while ago so there may be a web shop now.

It's actually a great little device because I can use my main gaming PC for both CRT emulation and as the main PC gaming.

Before I needed a separate PC for emudriver/CRT because I couldn't do regular gaming on it (once the epicgames loader detected TEST mode in Windows it wouldn't load the PC games, not to mention the R9 380 card was getting a bit old).

WOW is that impressive.
Beautiful even if it never left the ground.

The prop alone looks like a work of art.