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Sure, what you said is correct, but using 3.3V at the spinner is worth a try

So I'm messing with this for the first time. I've used CRTEmudriver for a while but never used it to run modern PC games. So I'm just trying out a few games and was recommended this thread.

Instead of adding a modeline for every resolution, I saw a comment from 2020 that said to download a standalone version of Switchres. Is that still the recommended way to do this in 2024?

Yes, standalone switchres works perfect.

Thanks for the response. I gave Retroarch a try, and sure enough, the gun mapping is fine for the standard MAME core, and probably the offshoots too for games that run better through them. The other console cores (NES, PS1) I've tried have all been fairly easy to setup through RA, so I'll probably stick to those going forwards.

I think all I've got left is Dolphin, which I haven't tried setting up yet, and a few native PC versions of games. Aside from CXBX everything else looks like it's working fine.

I put in a request to join as well. Wouldn't mind getting mine up to speed.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Since ^^^ up there was asking in private earlier, thought I'd just paste the same reply I gave them for everyone else reading:

MAME's mouse position handling is very dumb, and just uses the entire output screen to map to the game screen - meaning no matter how you stretch or squash the image, the edge of the TV screen correlates to the edge of the game screen.

Libretro, on the other hand, treats the game screen 1:1 with the display - so if you click in the game play area, it'll click in that position, and clicking on the black border area will be a screen edge/off screen shot. This will actually respect the game screen output; whether that be integer scaling or aspect ratio difference, so the gun can continue to operate in its normal mode.
It's not just Libretro that does this, FWIW: PCSX2-nightly does the same thing, both for mouse inputs and a gamepad stick acting as an absolute position surrogate mouse. Others like Model 2 emu, or Flycast (both standalone & libretro core) respect this too, though the former has no real off-screen detection and uses a hack to get around it lol. Most others that use a fullscreen window in native desktop resolution should respect this. That is why I tend to say that MAME is doing it wrong.

Of course, that doesn't mean the 4:3 restrictor in gun firmware is useless - at least on Windows, it is necessary due to how fullscreen apps often take over the screen resolution, and idiosyncrasies with absolute mouse positioning if the game doesn't use the same aspect ratio and... it's a lot. That's why 4:3 mode would be necessary. On Linux w/ Proton, or a version of Wine with the fshack, none of this is necessary since everything scales up to desktop resolution so the accuracy of the mouse cursor doesn't change, much like Libretro et al. 

That said, this is mostly talking wrt lightgun systems like GUN4ALL and GUN4IR. No idea how that applies to VR-tracking-on-pancake screens. This is mostly why I lean towards using RetroArch whenever possible.

I am using x360ce with a Logitech G29 to emulate an Xinput controller. Under the "Controller 1" tab, I click on the plus "Add" button and select my wheel from the list with the green square to the left which means it is active. I then map everything to my liking and click "Save All". All is well and works as intended, however, this config is lost after reboots and/or unplugging and plugging my G29 back into my PC. It never remains stable and I have to go in and do this process all over again.

Each time I click on the "Add" button, I see different instances of the G29 each with a different Instance ID, they always have a grey square next to them except one of them which is the one I have to select and reconfigure each time. Back in the "Controller 1" tab, I can also see different instances of the G29 and they all have a different "Setting ID" and "Instance ID" but only the latest one I added will have a green square next to it and obviously will be the only that works.

What I'm I missing here? How do I keep from having to constantly reconfigure my G29?

the reason everybody just posts everywhere about fixing touch machines is that the JVL company has basically abandoned the videogame market and chooses to focus on casino gaming. short of cursory access to a manual or CD, there is basically no support left except for private 3rd party companies.

if you need repairs that are out of the scope of your abilities, you can make a post here explaining what you got, what it's doing (or not doing) and i'm sure someone here can sort you out. (i have not checked your history to see if you've posted previously about it or not... just mentioning it for the sake of inclusion)

if you've exhausted what you can find, I suggest people contact some of the amusement game operators (jukboxes pooltables etc) or videogame repair companies (xbox playstation repairs etc) in your area and see if anyone might be familiar with the machine enough that can help you with your issue. lots of companies will repair stuff for you... for a fee of course.



That said, the main companies ignoring your e-mails is an all too common issue. I, myself, am a technician for an amusement company (several in fact) for the last 16 years, and the amount of e-mails going to dead e-mails/no response is huge...not to mention the replies I DO get are only about 50% of the time actually helpful and the other 50% of the time responses containing the likes of "unfortunately" and "unable". Even phone calls often end up with leaving messages on a voicemail that fall on deaf ears. I mean, it's not like i'm some random joe schmoe off the street... i'm a company... using your product .... contacting you, potentially with an issue.

I'm always impressed with these sort of 'one shot's skills. That is, the type of skills where one mistake and you either throw it away or live with it.

Heh. Funny that you should mention that, because this actually is the second shot. The first one went so bad that I threw it away.
Oddly enough, I'm pretty relaxed about this kind of project, because this hobby taught me that with patience, much practice and perseverance ... Murphy's Law is still out to get me. I have to pull off a flawless victory yet, so knowing that something will probably go wrong, I'm not that stressed out when it happens.
I have also learned not to be a bloody perfectionist all the time, because if I settle for good/very good, I'm getting more things done.

The 3.3V logic should be not a problem as long as you drive the spinner @3V.

Not so sure that would be possible.  Opto-sensors use IR LEDs, which have resistors in-line to regulate the current (voltage) to that which allow them to work.  At minimum, it's very likely that a spinner would need to have some board level modifications to work decently at 3.3v, or even work at all.

I came across the original EA Sports PGA golf. Unit is good except the hard drive is bad. Is there a way to get the ISO of the hard drive? No disk left in unit. I have dongle original DFI computer. Really like to get this cabinet up and running for the family. Thanks for any help.

Join the Facebook group-- I'm certain it's mentioned in this thread.  That's where support is and where you can get literally any help you could possibly need to get it up and running.