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You know what..  Making interchangeable control panels might be the answer. My pedestal opens like a piano hinge (magnet push devices.. forgot the exact terminology lol) I also ran 3 front usb covers so I could create something that would somehow clip onto the front of the panel than simply have a 1-2” hole where the usbs connect to.. thought about it in the past but now might give that a serious go! 

My current setup is running 8 way joysticks.. however I believe there is space above each joystick to add an analog joystick followed by the bat below the 8 buttons I currently have for players 1 and 2.. but doing that way might just look really cluttered… I’m starting to really like the idea of add-on panels.. always wanted to do one for Tron and Stargate and some others.. thanks for the advice!

Would each bat be its own usb? If so I’d need 4 usb inputs.. 2 for the bats and 2 for the analog joysticks right?
Would it be possible for you to make the bat devices for me? I can do everything else..

Thanks again!

Pretty sure that one bat control for two players is going to be a disaster.

A standalone box with just the bat control plopped on top of your 4P panel will almost certainly be less than satisfactory, too.

Your current 4P panel uses 8-way sticks, right?
- If so, you probably want analog sticks for this game.

Trying to add two analog sticks and two bat controls to an existing 4P panel sounds like a not-so-good idea.
- Is there enough room for the sticks and bats?
- What analog sticks would you use?

For those reasons, I thought you were planning on either:

1. Swappable panels for your pedestal (4P panel + bat panel)
- Storage of the one not currently in use can be a pain especially a big heavy 4 player panel.   

    or

2. A USB standalone bat controller box with the full set of controls for two players.

You could put the standalone controller box on a folding stand in front of the pedestal or build it into a separate pedestal that plugs into the current 4P pedestal.
- When not in use, maybe you can store it behind the main 4P pedestal.   


Scott

Partial List of Stereoscopic Games:


Arcade:

Wyvern F0
SubRoc-3D
Battle Bird
3-D Thunder Ceptor II

Virtuality:
Dactyl Nightmare
Grid Busters
Hero
Legend Quest
Battlesphere
Exorex
Total Destruction
VTOL
Flying Aces
Buggy Ball
Dactyl Nightmare 2 - Race For The Eggs
Zone Hunter
Pac-Man VR.
Quickshot Carnival
Zero Hour


Vectrex:
3D Mine Storm
3D Narrow Escape
3D Crazy Coaster
3D Pole Position
3D Sector-X
3D Lord of the Robots


Virtual Boy
22 Officially Sold Games


Sega Master System:

Maze Hunter 3-D
Missile Defense 3-D
Zaxxon 3-D
Blade Eagle 3-D
Space Harrier 3-D
Poseidon Wars 3-D
OutRun 3-D


NES
3-D WorldRunner
JJ
Rad Racer
Falsion
Attack Animal Gakuen
Famicom Grand Prix II: 3D Hot Rally
Cosmic Epsilon


DOS
Magic Carpet
Descent
Duke Nukem 3D


PS3, Xbox360 (Various)

Nintendo 3DS

-----

 Shutterglasses can Also be used to display a 2 player game, on One Monitor...
where as one player is only seeing the Left display image,  and the other player, is only seeing the Right display image.

 It could also be good for 3D displaying of Cabinets, Pinball tables, 3d mame bezel art, and more.

Hey all;

I just installed Outrun 2 FXT as I was playing this old classic again, and it ran fine before hand but now I've run into problems... and this thread seems to be the closest to having the answers, so here I am!

Firstly, the game is now running far, FAR too fast. I believe the issue is it needs to be locked via VSync or manually to 60hz, but it's taking the screen refresh of my monitor/desktop which runs at 144hz.  I can't find anywhere in game, in the old or FXT installers where I can force it to run at the lower speed, nor can I see anywhere in the actual files (so far) where it's saving the settings to manually edit it.

Secondly, it's not taking my 360-esque gamepad controls again; I have a vague memory this was hellishly fiddly when I first set it up, and suspect it was manually edited in but I likewise can't see where. In particular, the in game mapping is not reading the left hand stick as the left/right controls in game (although it allows me to set them as an axis), as well as thinking the left and right triggers are all a single Z axis, which I want as brake and accelerate (and not letting me set these as seperate buttons).  The FXT set up does seem to have some controls, but doesn't allow me to remap these. Any ideas where these are hiding?

Thanks all!

The screen flashes slightly before the ball drops into the tube.
(it helps to watch it at the slowest playback speed)

 It appears that the movement and animation, is slightly lagging.   Meaning.. that the game
realizes it made the hit... but it takes a moment before it can stop the object, and apply the
explosion animations.

 Also.. this particular level might be somewhat special:

 1)  The tubes are represented in 3d.. showing part of an opened end.. which can be different
based on which way the pipe is facing.

 2)  Difficulty Adjustment.  Due to the narrow window of timing.. this particular level might have
been adjusted to allow for a slightly greater window.

 Hard to tell.  All I can say, is that again.. it appears he shot before the ball entered the tube,
as you see the flash happen before that point.   And that if this is the only example you could
find... then Id say that the game is pretty darn accurate to me.

 My advice is to play it for real.. and see for yourself.   The game is awesome fun, and hard as
cocoNuts.  Its one of The best reasons to own an SMS, hands down.

 Maybe PBJ could send you a copy of this, and Missile Defense 3D


 **  Future Product request:

 A lot of people would Love to experience various games 3D modes.  Most especially, Continental Circus 3D.
(as well as all 3d sms games, a few NES, and a few of the other 3d arcade games)

 It would be great to have an Interface to trigger some LCD glasses.

 The 3D shutter glasses have become fairly cheap.  They either work with an IR emitter, or an RF emitter,
depending on the device.

 The main issue with PC based interfaces... is that they are tied to specific graphics drivers (Nvidia)...
and Nvidia stopped supporting updates for them (the last driver, afaik, doesnt even work in w10)

 If a small USB driven Emitter could be sold.. and the software allowed emulators to trigger it
properly in timing...  it would make a LOT of people happy.


 You can get an idea of how cool Continental Circus 3D looks.. if you fire up your SMS + Glasses + any 3d game..
then look at your PC monitor with the glasses on.   The glasses wont be sync'd to the PC... so it will only
be 3d in part of the screen... and in a looping manor.   But its worth it, just to see it.  Makes a "Meh" racer,
turn into an Awesome game experience... as parts and pieces keep flying out of the screen.

 Eventually, emulators might make use of VR goggles... but that will still have limitations... such as
no accurate lightgun abilities for Missile Defense 3D.  That, and there are many other factors that
make it better for just using shutter glasses. (such as large screen projector setups = greater 3d depth effect)

 If it cant work with 3d movie playback... so be it.  So long as it works with Emulators.


 Edit:  It would probably be better to use an RF emitter... as an IR emitter would interfere with most
common IR gun solutions ?

Hey guys,
I have these guns.. was wondering is there a way to get them to recoil constantly if you hold down the trigger?
I also have the sindens, but as much as I wanted to love them.. just don’t like the entire setup process, white borders, and the weak recoil due to it playing off a usb.

I almost want to see if I can put the aimtrak internals inside the sindens and keep the dpad etc..lol

Anyways let me know if anyone one has done so for the aimtrak continuous recoil.

Awesome man! Really appreciate the info.. I forgot to mention my 4 player pedestal has 4 PS4/PS5 encoders. So I’d guess I’d make the baseball bat a stand-alone (I could technically make 1 bat usable for both players) would this work as a pinball plunger as well? I don’t mind that route as well, not sure how adding a bat joystick would look like on my machine currently.

Nonetheless I’d love to have this anyways for nostalgia!  I’m away till next week, but would love to look into this further.

I'm not aware of any newer options for MAME myself, maybe look into what the FGC uses for SF2 or games like that. I must admit to being slightly miffed by the request though. If the PCB's were built to link up, why would you want to use netplay over LAN, why not just link the two instances directly?

Also, does F1 Exhaust Note link? I thought only its sequel F1 Super Lap did! I must go check that one out.

In order to run 2 player/screen games in my LAN, such as F1 Exhaust Note or World Rally 2, I think the best solution would be to use a server/client app with MAME. It seems this is not integrated in MAME natively and the apps that do this are very very old, like Kaillera or ClientServerMAME.

Is there any newer application of method for doing this?

Found a spring that should work well for this controller.
- Model Number: 88061 Menards ® SKU: 2018702
- 3/16" x 2" extension spring
- 2.13 pound safe working load
https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/fasteners-connectors/specialty-fasteners/springs/midwest-fastener-reg-3-16-x-2-zinc-extension-spring-1-count/88061/p-1444440191733.htm

It's long enough to allow a reasonable range of motion and short enough so the controller should have a footprint that's close to normal joystick.

The end loops are a good size for either #4-40 or M3 hardware.   

Encoder selection:
You'll need P1 and P2 A/B/Start/Coin buttons, analog stick, and bat controller for your control panel so that's 4 buttons and 3 analog axes per player ==> 8 buttons and 6 analog axes total.

The A-Pac only has 4 analog inputs so you'd need two of those if you choose to go that route.

Another option to consider is a full-size U-HID.

IMHO the best bang for your buck is an Arduino using either the 32u4 or 328P processor since they have six analog inputs.   

An Arduino Pro Micro doesn't have enough analog input pins (pins 40 and 41 on the 32u4 are not connected on that board), but a Micro, a Leonardo, or an Uno do.







Another option is the the Adafruit ItsyBitsy 32u4 5v 16MHz board.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3677
https://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-ItsyBitsy-32u4-5V-16MHz/dp/B079SMYDRQ/




Scott