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Appreciate the reply and the insight. Had hoped I was just missing something as a noob.
I'll figure out the rotation before installing the screen and then never touch it again

Thanks!

I just added 3, LED-ready, buttons (coin, 1 and 2 player start) to my USB based controller panel. My cabinet runs off the Pi 5.
I purchased a PAC drive in the hopes of making use of the LEDs.
Ideally, I'd like the buttons to illuminate based on MAME output and specifically driven by credit count or other relevant game state/output.

Since I can't use LEDBlinky and RGBCommander seems dormant, it looks like my only option is LEDSpicer for a Linux based driver.

Before posting here, I did a sanity check with ChatGPT and it seems like this is do-able (?)
https://chatgpt.com/share/686c06dc-4f3c-800b-a2ee-5648c03609cb

ANY thoughts/suggestions/comments are greatly appreciated!

NINJA GAIDEN: Ragebound Demo anyone?

You can easily find out for yourself.

On a standard monitor:

In the game options, set it to the x1 window mode, where 1 pixel on your monitor is 1 pixel in game.

Run and inject Special K, open the OSD, read the window resolution.

That is the resolution of the game. Make that as a custom resolution

I don't think the schematic is correct for the chassis. Here's a closer look at the area in question

Reckon so too, and thanks for the new pic.

Don't want you to break anything, but maybe you could pull it off to get a closer look? There could be markings on side/below we cannot see from above. You could also possibly measure it using one of those meters.

You can confirm if it is an inductor by just using your DMM in ohms mode, as described above.

If it is an inductor, the red dot suggests "2" but without more markers or clues we wouldn't know if it is 22mH or 2200mH, for example.

OTOH, on your latest photo I see there is a dot on the PCB that aligns with the red dot, so possibly just a polarity marker?

You might want to check how hot it gets when TV is powered on. In the ideal world you'd have a thermal camera or a thermal probe for a multimeter, but realistically you probably don't. Failing that, and if you are feeling brave, maybe you could carefully hold a finger nearby.

I do actually have a thermal probe for my multimeter. I'll dig into this issue again sometime this week.

You have some really clean fit and finish. Looks factory made. Kudos!

Sorry if I missed it, but did you summarize anywhere what you did for computer software/hardware? I saw you're using PinballX but curious about some of your other integrations and how hi-spec of a computer you used.

He covered the hardware in the first two posts, left the software choices vague.

With Ond builds it is all about design and eye candy to me anyway   Living the dream vicariously.

That might explain why.my word- POUND isn't in the list 😄

Thanks for looking at it guys. The game has an internal word list of approx 3,800 five letter words. If the word you make is not in that internal list then it won’t be found. Most common words are there and quite a few obscure ones too but it is not 100%. Only words in the internal list can be ‘daily’ words or even found as ‘other’ words. I culled the list deliberately to avoid negative words or potentially offensive words being part of the words chosen for the puzzle but maybe i need a secondary list to identify all the others as ‘other’ words only.

There is program that can remove watermark - https://winaero.com/download-universal-watermark-disabler/

It works on windows 10 version 10.0.19045

I use my daily PC to power my arcade setup, is there anyway around crtemudriver test mode? Otherwise I have to reinstall it literally everyday due to games with easy anti cheat.

This is one reason why getting a second PC to run your arcade is a pretty good idea. It doesn't need to be very new or expensive.

Failing that, if you want to push on with using the same PC for everything, you could consider setting up a dual-boot arrangement for your PC. If you want "desktop", choose "1" (installs standard video drivers). If you want it for arcade games, choose "2" (installs CRT_emudriver).

This is possible because the HD 4000 family uses the ancient driver interface that didn't have a low resolution check. With newer cards, you can't add low resolution on stock drivers (unless you use this method).

Very interesting.

Do you which model is the most powerful and also uses that "ancient driver"?, HD 4890? HD 4830?

I just wanna get the best model out there, without the need of restarting into Test Mode.

Also apologies for necroposting, just thought the answer would be useful for peopel who are in the same boat as me.

HD4XXX cards are a massive PITA to get working right with CRT_emudriver - it is much easier to install with the HD5XXX+ cards that support EDID.

They are also literally massive compared to cards a bit newer like the HD6XXX cards, with which CRT_emulator installs always seem to go smoothly with a few clicks.

While you can't remove the test mode text, it is possible to edit it so that nothing is visible, or to at least change the message to something more appropriate.