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That's cool! So what do you think are the main differences are between hdrivairp and hdrivair? Looks like the dash has had a make over on hdrivairp...

Good work btw on the nvram work. I wasn't able to write new CNTSPTRN and PATCEN values to the nvram files for hard drivin, race drivin or street drivin. When I load the game, my edited nvram files just get ignored and I go straight into the service / wheel calibration mode (As if no nvram files existed). Are you able to write new CNTSPTRN and PATCEN values with your script without them being ignored then? Probably have a bug in my script, I wrote it pretty quick

Thank you both! I have tried calibrating it... when the game turns on, it asks me to turn the steering wheel to the far left, then the far right, step on the accelerator as much as I can, then the same for the brake.

So I feel like I am constantly calibrating the game upon turning it on and it still doesn't work.

Any other suggestions?
Thanks!

Updates, updates!

I completed my first real batch GreenAntz v1.94 VGA units. These have all been fully cleaned, trimmed, tested and calibrated. I decided to take a photo of the "team" while they were together.





About half of these are already on the way to people that pre-purchased them. I cannot thank you all enough for your patience over the past few weeks as I have been recovering from injury - it knocked me about a lot and slowed my work to a crawl. I will be in touch with you all directly soon with tracking numbers.

With the batch complete, this also means I still have a few spare units right now if anybody wants one.

Most of these v1.94 units use a blue LED for sync, as some people I asked preferred that, though I did experiment and make a couple with red sync LEDs too. Just wanted to see how they looked. All the units I've just sent out have a blue LED.

 


There's a lot of customisation on this V1.94 PCB now. Especially in terms of the sync auto-switching and the sync LED, which I installed where no LED was ever originally intended! It took some practice and trial-and-error to get it both working right and looking nice and neat.





BTW - For those wondering, I am feeling a lot better now, these past few days I've "turned the corner" with my injury, though I suspect I'll continue to get more ordinary back and other pain for quite a while yet. Swimming every day really helps.

GreenAntz v1.94

This should be fixed on 0.265, please confirm.

GroovyMAME 0.265 is out!

What's new in Switchres 2.220c (April 2024)

- Fix wrong speed on certain games (crusnusa, etc.), always update screen when syncrefresh is on (bypass frameskip).

Still trying to simulate analog left stick for Blur. I made some tests with gamepad tester and theoretically have my dpad conneced to the stick. However on Blur, it is not recognized. Could it be that Blur ignores the stick because not all the buttons and axes are simulated?
[Edit] Finally found a solution mixing Wheel2xinput and the Wheel configuration software. I simply generate the keyboard commands related to forward and backward shooting. Would be curious to know however how to do this only with wheel2xinput.

You should not have to mix and match anything. It is unlikely that there are issues if everything is not mapped in W2X. If other buttons work, and the gamepad is reporting that the left stick is working, it has to be something else. You can come find me on discord if still having trouble.

This tool works great when launching wheel2xinput.exe directly but whenever I try to start the program with an ahk for use in a front end it says it cannot find config.json and says "exiting". Paths are correct and the configs are present. I even tested my ahk to start the emulator/rom and notepad.exe and they both fired up and closed properly. For whatever reason wheel2xinput gives this error when I use an ahk to call it.

Try using an absolute path for the config file. I bet Windows is looking in the wrong place for it.

Thank you very much for this tool. I tried it with my DFGT and it worked perfectly with one of the json files you provided.

You are very welcome! Glad to help!

For some reason i can get the hdrivairp game to load up the first warp level but the game acts like i am offroad all the time. Never used to load for me. Thought it might be something to do with the diagnostic jumper.

Thanks for the kind words. The CRT is the heart of this project, I just don't find myself playing my LCD cabinets ever, and a big reason is because of the LCD.

I'm happy to say the initial build is 99% complete at this point, the only thing left is to mount the back service door, hinges are already installed just need to clip on and adjust. Wood filler and sand the front bezel so it looks like one piece, and change up my marquee mounting as I wasn't happy with how aluminum angle looked, I'm going to inset the diffuser and just use t-molding. I'll take some photos once I get to that as I need to disassemble quite a bit before I can work on it.

Put my stupidly expensive flushing chisel to use... Glad I spent the money for all the inside corners on this thing, probably the most expensive tool I bought that I didn't already own.



The bezel turned out decent, it's not perfect by any means, getting the radius for the screen was incredibly difficult, and took an entire day just for those 4 pieces. I ended up murdering the original TV shell which made me a bit sad, and used it to draw out the radius, then used a jigsaw and sanded. In hindsight I'd probably have attempted a 3d scan and made a router template, but I have doubts about the accuracy of that without proper scanning equipment.


Spins perfect with 1 finger. Mounted the control panel with dowels so it can easily be removed. Amazingly I managed to get the screen and bezel within 1mm of center, which was the part I was most worried about with this project. I did add too much gap at the back of the control panel, I only ended up needing about 1cm for clearance and did around an inch. I might put weather stripping brushes to fill that hole, or just leave it. If anyone has any other ideas I'd appreciate them, the screen spins into that gap but only a very small amount, so whatever I filled with would have to be flexible, non abrasive, and return to position.


Since I already cut up the original shell I figure I might as well use the original PCB mounts. Makes it easily serviceable and clean. Just enough space for it to spin in any direction. I'll want to block the direction at some point to avoid people spinning and getting the cables tangled and destroying things, but I'll do that after I'm happy with the display calibration. It seems to like spinning left more than right for purity, but this will be much easier to test now than it was just flipping the tube over by hand.


Something I found interesting is that the exact location where I have purity struggles, is where it looks like they tack welded a plate over a seam in the original tube frame at the factory. I'm not sure if this is normal, or why this would have been done over just welding the frame itself. I'm almost thinking this might have been a hacky repair down in the factory for some reason, though it might just be standard. Can't say I've ever noticed on another tube before, and the location made me wonder. Either way I managed to get the purity to an acceptable barely perceptible issue before, I know I'll be able to get it good with enough playing around with magnets. I also ran my degaussing coil over the metal shield while I had it apart, as I suspect it might have gotten magnetized.