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honestly, the virtuo is 100x easier to play around with. the computer is a regular ITX motherboard. the power supply is basically a modified ATX power supply (addition of +24vdc to run monitor and bill acceptors) so if you want to swap it out for something different, it's pretty easy.

since it's a regular old computer motherboard, the audio comes out of the same regular old 1/8" headphone jacks on the motherboard back panel as your average desktop... so getting audio out is super easy. the older 300651-001 part number computers are kinda meh performance wise, the 300759-001 were mush better.

the RGB rim lighting is a 3 pin system (not sure which though) you'll have to look more into it. basically power, ground and a data wire. it's RGB...but not individually addressable.

the LED pixel array display on top is basically a HUB73 LED panel with a custom controller that accepts DVI/HDMI and acts as a very large, but low resolution monitor... there where 2 or 3 versions of this panel so you'll have to count out the pixels and create yourself a custom resolution for it...(it'll be like 24x120 ) then just feed it a DVI/HDMI signal and put whatever you want on there as if it is an extended display.

if the LED array has one half that is all messed up, (common issue) replacing an IC chip (74HC245) on that half of the display fixes it. it will probably need the caps changed out on it. most do.

LCD monitor usually needs the caps changed out on the backlight inverter board. 4 screws and it comes right out. don't need to take the panel out or anything.

like anything that is getting old, most stuff needs caps replace in them due to cheap china caps being used in manufacturing. the only devices I've never had an issue with is the power supply (short of lightning strikes/power surges killing them) and the amps (Danish engineering FTW) i've repaired everything else in these machines.

It appears that my hosting site thinks the program has (or is!) a Virus.  So it deletes it as soon as I upload it.   I recall that my antivirus also thought this could be a virus at the time, and so I added it to the exception list.     I know that many times, AV programs think AutoIT Scripts or similar are Virus -  but they are not.

I guess use the archive link for now until I find a solution!

Im like 80% inclined to trade it for the virtuo just for the stand, that it should be a speaker to. but I'm not sure if the computer will be powerful enough as the Angelina computer, it shouldn't be a problem,I can always install a better one. Also I really  don't like the blue ampas it looks more complicated to use as the current amps were easy to hack and use, I wonder if the virtuo led will also be easy to hack as the angelinas were, basically just bypass the original led controls and install a cheap Chinese control.i could install a coin acceptor where the cc reader is. And to be honest, I've always wanted a virtuo instead of an Angelina, I love the virtuo design, like a giant mp3 player.

Thanks for sharing your build. I've been lurking for a little while now here and on reddit r/cade and other forums to try to make up my mind if I should build or purchase a custom Lightgun cabinet. I've seen the commercial 40 & 50 inch models you referenced and my issue has been deciding if I wanted to take that on. Your post has tipped me in the direction of doing it myself. Will be following your progress here with great interest. Total noob question: Do you mind sharing the name of the software you used to create your mock up and cutting templates? 

I do have one more question. Can this be used with the WiFi/BT version of the Pico so I don't need to use the USB?

As promised, I am reporting back with my findings.

The solution was simple, I just broke the wire for the trigger and wired it to the Xbox controller board and the Pico at the same time.
The program I'm using to map the rest of the Keys is called "Controller Companion" on Steam, I highly recommend it, it's only three bucks and allows mapping either overall or on a per program basis.

I'm so happy to see other builders here building big and ambitious projects. For me, this the heart of BYOAC. In times past 'experts' would have weighed in and maybe told you rotating a CRT is too tricky/don't bother/ blah blah blah.  Your ring bearing solution is really good! All that weight nicely supported and balanced allowing for quality rotation control.  The main issue with lovely old CRTs other than weight, is image issues being affected by tube orientation changes. If you can solve magnetic coloration issues this will be epic indeed! When building your own arcade cabinet CRTs are still king for the real arcade experience.

I've been working with MDF for a long time. I love it for cabinet building but it has its own best practice rules. Grain free, shapes well, great for gluing panels and takes surface finishes (the right ones) like a dream.  It also has terrible dust issues, is heavy, splits when nailed or screwed in the wrong way, dulls tool blades, absorbs moisture and yes, bends in the sun  .  I often combine it with Marine Ply to solve some of those problems.

Watching your progress 

Thank you so much for the Archive link got it working perfectly with Coin-ops Front End within minutes.

My other grandfather was from Beeville.  Not much out there.  We had a ranch. Oddly, the sculptor that finished Mount Rushmore was from there and a beloved friend I was told.

Has anyone been successful in getting FFBPlugin to work with Flycast? I finally got Initial D Export to run, and I have the FFBPlugin files in the same folder as the Flycast.exe file but no FFB what so ever. Emulator recognizes my wheel and I can map left stick to steer left and right, but no ffb. Am I doing something wrong?