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Hm, I built the mame code straight from github with only those 2 changes I mentioned (No other hacks). Worked ok for me. Weird, I double check the code tonight.

As the physical controls we are testing with are different, I guess that's why we are seeing different results.

As we both have mouses though, perhaps see how it plays with your mouse ("mame hdrivair -mouse")? At least you should see what I tried to achieve

Never heard of this project. Looks really interesing. Would it work with 2 CRTs? Assuming that I need two VideoAmps.

Is there any site where I can buy this VideoAmp ? I see people are taking straight from bandicoot.

I removed support in version 216 so 215 will be the last one that supports ddraw.

What is the latest version of GroovyMAME that supports DirectDraw, i.e. permit me to utilize my ArcadeVGA card with my CRT?

Good to hear from you! Have been wanting to ask you about PIC programming, like you do for the 15khz dongle.

Hi werigo, sorry for the late reply, something has been cblocking me from accessing the forum easily for months.

Yes, it looks like the dongle should work with your setup. RGB and ground are simply passed through on the expected VGA pins (1,2,3 and 5/6/7/8/10, respectively). For sync, the dongle outputs c-sync only, on pin 13. Pin 14 is not connected (well, it's connected to the PCB for structural strength, but that pad is not wired to anything).

I've got an AdvanceMame setup with direct connection from the PC VGA to an Hantarex Polo 15KHz connector (see attachment) with all wires connected (RGB hsync vsync ground). Your dongle could be used in my setup? I see pin 13 AND 14 in the wiring, are they both pushed on or only 13 (composite sync)?

Thanks I appreciate that. It's running most pre-2005 arcade and console lightgun games, some PC games, and some newer pc-based arcade games.

I use Bigbox to launch games and to handle the active Marquee. Retroarch is used for most emulated games because it supports the bezels that you see in the Area 51 screenshot. For games that support outputs or have custom outputs provided via Demulshooter, I use the standard emulators directly because Retroarch is not really supported. I.e., I use Flycast for Naomi games rather than Retroarch's flycast plugin because Demulshooter doesn't support the Retroarch plugin. I lose the bezel but I'd rather have the outputs.

There is still a long way to go before everything is fully supported and configured how I want. It's kind of a challenge to configure the emulator and games, and then have a program run and edit the lightgun mappings in their config files before a game is launched. I want everything to be as close to plug-and-play as possible. So each game+emulator needs to be coded to support their specific config file.

Well, it hasn't been that long, but i am having trouble accessing the forum - https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,168619.0.html

Just want to say that i'm still around, and reading occasionally. Still watching your channel, Mr Thunderwing, the SCUD race review was nice, if a little harsh, lol.

Hopefully i can sort out the issue and not have to jump through too many hoops to get back on regularly.

Hi All,

Not sure where to post or whom to tag, but under normal circumstances i cannot access http://forum.arcadecontrols.com without using a VPN, which I don't do all that often. My ISP insists they do not blacklist sites, so i'm wondering if something might be blocked on this end?

Right now my IP address without the VPN is (happy to send via PM), but that will change sometimes when i reconnect. It doesn't seem to matter where i connect to with the VPN, same country, different country, etc. As long as the VPN is on.

Please let me know what extra details i can provide or anything else i can look at

Thanks!

I placed the fixed part of the back panel. And immediately screwed up. What is wrong with this picture?


The monitor was not upright and can now no longer be turned in the right position. Luckily it is easily fixed because it is mounted with bolts.


Most of the back panel will be a hatch. I use a piece of wood to provide some structure to attach a piano hinge with screws.



I pre drilled to prevent splitting the wood.




The control panel was not flush with the sides.



So I attacked with a file:




Time to drill holes for the controls. The control panel will have a single 8 way stick and 2 buttons. This should be enough for most classic arcade games and shmups. I have saved an identical piece of wood in case I ever want to swap it out with a control panel with a different button configuration.
I first drilled pilot holes in the places that felt natural to position my hands at.


I love using the router.



Now onto the actual holes.




For the pinball buttons I made holes for left flipper, left nudge, start, plunger, right nudge and right flipper. For the up nudge I use a autohotkey script to combine to detect when left and right nudge are pressed simultaneously and send a different key in that case. In hindsight, maybe I should have included an additional button on the right to allow magnasave (especially for Timeshock), but I'm now considering swapping right nudge with magnasave if it is supported.
The location of the buttons took quite some fiddling around. I had to find a balance between having a natural feeling distance from the lockbar and leaving space for the monitor bezel to move between arcade and pinball mode.


A monitor, computer and power supply in an enclosed case can get quite warm, so I had to think about cooling the thing. For air intake, I have left a gap between the corner between the back and the bottom. For the outtake, I planned to have a fan at the bottom and the top. This way there is always a fan at the high end, whether in arcade or in pinball orientation, so rising hot air can be exhausted. Both the bottom and back panel are spaced by 1 cm through the sides extending beyond them. This ensures that the fan that is at the bottom does not blow against a solid wall.



A fan guard should prevent chopped up kid fingers.


For the audio department I took apart a pair of pc speakers.


And drilled holes for them in the side panels.


For the brains of the machine I initially wanted to use a Raspberry Pi. But due to covid scarcity those became ridiculously expensive. I found a Lenovo mini pc for a third of the price a Pi would have cost at the time. This also allows me to run Windows and greatly increase the range of software it can run.
To mount the computer, I found the easiest way to be drilling holes in the top case and driving screws through them.



Installed computer, speakers and fans