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Someone on here can share the links for the restore discs and latest software too. I am here for the same request.

I did some further testing this weekend. I was able to borrow a thermal camera adapter for my phone, and using this I could inspect the boards while they were running in the cabinet. Photos aren't the highest quality, and the angles are weird due to the space limitations of shoving my hand and phone inside a live cabinet.

I didn't find anything outrageously hot, but I did get some results. Keep in mind, these images show the hottest thing in the camera's view, and the coldest. Usually that range is from 22°c to 28ish.

In the power section, I can see some resistors and diodes get warm, but nothing unreasonable (see pic).

There's 3 resistors near the back (R137, R138, R196) that get up to 48°c, but I think that's normal for giant resistors like this (see pic).

On the neck board I can see the main IC201 gets warm, as do the large heat sinks, but nothing hotter than 31°, so it seams fine.

The signal input board has a couple of diodes in the corner that get pretty hot (45°) but I recall the dude in one of those youtube video's I posted saw the same thing happening to his board. I guess it's normal. I tested the diodes and they still work, so I guess it's fine? (see pic)

The one thing that really caught my attention was this somewhat hot spot over by R469 (the big ceramic resistor). R490 and IC404 were in the middle of that. I have a different pic where that IC is up to 55°, which is suspicious to me (to be continued).

And I was curious what the tubes neck looked like so I snapped a pic of that for fun.

I'm always impressed with these sort of 'one shot's skills. That is, the type of skills where one mistake and you either throw it away or live with it. Water colours are another. What youve just put down is it, unlike oil paints where you normally have several DAYS to just keep going over it.

Well done 🧐

Sweet! I'm planning a mini now, did you draw up custom plans, or scale something down from an existing set?

No plans, I just YOLOed it. Drew out the design on a 4x2 sheet of plywood using a photo of a NEOGEO cab as reference. Cut out the two sides and pretty much improvised/trialed and errored everything in between to fit the monitor and control panel.

snes was sluggish
Mame was scratchy sound.
I have a Pie zero 2 w with Batocera on it
.

I have tried that. I had sound issues.

What kind of issues? Sometimes you need to switch audio drivers.

I really like Batocera so far. Setting up another machine with it tonight.

You can probably use the samples you have to build an appropriate set.

https://wiki.recalbox.com/en/tutorials/utilities/rom-management/clrmamepro

Windows 7 came out Oct 22nd 2009 .  end of support Jan 14th 2020
The HP T620 came out Dec 2013
So... I picked MAME 0.149 it came out June 11th 2013
seems like a good match to me.
I know Zuma and Plant Vs Zombies work
I have windows_7_ultimate_with_sp1_x64_dvd_u_677332 Installed, all drivers are up to date
Snappy Driver is so cool. 

[quote Instead of running windows on it I would try a Batocera install- you can easily install it on a smaller drive or USB stick to boot it, and then runn all your games on a separate drive. very easy to use and configure.
[/quote]

I have tried that. I had sound issues.

I downloaded Mame V 0.149. I found The ROM set.  I have the BIOS  for  0.149 the extra files are downloading right now. Can I use the samples
I have for MAME 2003 plus in MAME 0.149?