The way I setup dual sticks for the same player was simple, wire the UDLR to both but wire the ground to a toggle switch. Pretty much insures no one can mess with it while you are playing... plus its great when little kids want to "play" the game while you are playing.
this info is in the wiki under the Hiding Windows section.
http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Hiding_Windows (http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Hiding_Windows)
here is how to get rid of the shutting down messages:
Getting rid of the "Loading settings" Popup screens
The following will hide the dialog box that appears that the beggining of Windows startup informing you that the system is "Loading Settings".
To do this,follow these steps:
Go to, Start Menu -> Run and enter regedit
Navigate to entry:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE>Software>Microsoft>Windows>CurrentVersion>Policies>System
If there is an entry for "DisableStatusMessages" set it to 1 (the digit one)
If there is no entry, right-mouse click the "System" word, and select New->DWORD value, and enter "DisableStatusMessages", right-mouse to edit the value of it, and enter 1 (the digit one).
5: The reason that each player has their own coin and and start because some games required that. (4-player cabs, see Gauntlet, TMNT, XMEN, etc) where if you have a group of strangers playing, this segregates who put money in and when you need to continue or join in.
but as for #1. the 7th button is by choice only. You can play with 6, some purists like to have the original ergo-ish feel. I have it on my CP, but its just wired the same as button 1. I should have probably made it independent, but I guess foresight is 20/20!
its all up to you. some like it as the "run" button in MK3 games, too.
Re: 1 - I did the 6 button layout, and just use the 1st button of the 2nd row as the Neo Geo button. It works for me, but I play the games with my thumb on the bottom row button, and three fingers on the top. So one finger per button. Mileage may vary.
Re: 3 - I think those are used for 'bumps', since you cannot physically bump the cabinet and affect the virtual playfield.
Re: 4 - I used the Groovy game gear spinner and trackball, and it was literally as simple as plugging it in and configuring the inputs in mame. Piece of cake, highly recommend it. The two buttons are for convenient button pressing during trackball games, and also double as a left-right mouse button combo since the trackball is emulated as a mouse. I've found it very handy to have the extra two buttons, since I use my cabinet as a media center, and not just an arcade cabinet. But there is no reason you couldn't just configure mame to use buttons from the P1 or P2 play space.
2. If I have a "Player 1" and "Player 2" joystick configuration, how is the 4 Way Joystick usually wired? Is it wired in parallel with the "Player 1" joystick, or is it usually wired to separate connections? (I understand I'll be configuring a lot of the inputs via both hardware and software, but would like to figure this out.)
5. I've noticed that each Player seems to require both a "Player" button (P1/P2, etc.) as well as their own, dedicated "Insert Coin" button. Is this so?
Yeah Rick,
Typically when someone wires in two 8-way joysticks and one 4-way joystick, they would parallel the 4-way to the player 1 8-way.
I personally am making a change on my new pnael and I'm using just two joysticks (sanwa JLWs) since I am usually the only one playing my machine, I will just keep the player 2 joystick in 4-way mode (via rotatable restrictor) and I will map my 4-way games to both joysticks giving me the choice. :blah:
for your next question, yeah you need both a p1 start and p2 start for any game that has 2 players
1. I've noticed that some people have a seventh button, and I believe I read that it's for some 'Neo Geo' games. Is it, in fact, a 'seventh button', and if so, how important is it? Am I going to lose the ability to play 'most' or 'best' Neo Geo games? (As in, "omg, the BEST GAME OF ALL TIME needs the seventh button!!!") Or, is it negligible? (As in, "only 1 of 50 games uses it.")
2. If I have a "Player 1" and "Player 2" joystick configuration, how is the 4 Way Joystick usually wired? Is it wired in parallel with the "Player 1" joystick, or is it usually wired to separate connections? (I understand I'll be configuring a lot of the inputs via both hardware and software, but would like to figure this out.)
3. I've noticed that a lot of cabs have 'pinball-style' buttons on the left and right sides. What confused me most was that many of them have TWO of these buttons. As there are usually two flippers, what are the additional buttons for? Also, are the buttons wired in parallel with anything else (i.e. Player 1's Button 1 and Button 2?) so that they're not 'required' but more of an 'optional feature'?
4. If I plan on installing both a Spinner and a Trackball, I believe that most of the more 'popular' makes use USB connections for each one. Is this so? Is it as simple as saying that my Spinner is connected to USB 1 and my Trackball is connected to USB 2? Some configurations also show some (usually two) buttons beside the spinner. Is there a reason for this, usually? (And again, are they wired in parallel with anything?)
5. I've noticed that each Player seems to require both a "Player" button (P1/P2, etc.) as well as their own, dedicated "Insert Coin" button. Is this so?
I'm really, really excited to get started. You can ask my Wife. Sadly, it looks like this will likely 'ramp up' in the Fall, as I am in the midst of completing my main floor renovations, and then, I've been advised that I have to complete the bathroom. (I've bugged my Wife about the MAME cab for a week now, so that whenever I mention it, she simply replies, "Bathroom", and I'm snapped back to reality.) That being said, there's no reason I can't start the planning stages now... ...and that's why I'm here. I'm excited. I've got the initiative, and this 'new project' is undoubtedly going to keep me spurred on to complete my other renos first - and quicker, I'd wager - so that I can get going on my own cab.
Rick
;D
I'd love to see more of your art? I've no clue what that is but it looks fantastic. Font is a bit rough to make out the letters if you don't know what it says or at least it was for me. Nice start.
There's a lot of good answers already, but I had a few thoughts to add... Some of this might have already been said, I'm too lazy tonight to cross reference all my answers ;D
Yes, 4 buttons in an row makes it nice for NeoGeo games, but a 7th (independently wired) button is also useful for other emulators, like Dreamcast, PSX or N64
Normally the dedicated 4 way is wired in parallel with player 1's 8 way stick.
I believe they're for nudge left and right
I got my trackball from Ultimarc and my spinner from Groovy Game Gear. They are both independant USB devices, but I have them plugged into a powered USB hub which drives the seven USB devices in my CP. Some people like having dedicated left and right mouse buttons for using the trackball to control Windows. You can also make some other, lesser-used buttons on the CP serve that purpose.
Yes, some games only work when a coin is inserted in the correct coin slot. Gauntlet is a popular game that worked this way - in order to play the warrior you have to press 5 in MAME, Valkyre is 6, Wizard is 7 and Elf is 8.
It may work to your advantage - the more planning you can do up front, the less frustration / disappointment you may have to deal with later :lol
Edit - bah I'm answering 2 week old posts now. Sorry, I didn't notice your first post was older...
Very cool theme. There are a lot of cool things you can do with that for sure.
1. Know which games you are mostly focussing your cab on. 2p vs 4p, trackball, spinner's, analog joysticks, horizontal/vertical screen etc. Instead of going for a 100% compatibility i would try to keep the CP as clean as possible. Are you really going to play mario64 on a cab when you already have 7000+ Mame games to choose from?
2. After you pick a initial cab design try to layout the steps and the order which they are needed to be completed. I was so excited in the beginning that i rushed some parts which cost me a lot of time and money later on to get it fixed. (glued everything together not realising i had to take it apart again to apply laminate).
4. try to balance your focus during design between the actual cab and the artwork. Hardware/software can all be changed relatively easy afterwards, monitors, control panel and applied artwork can not. (If your not a pro graphic app user, make sure you don't over use filters/effects. Don't use glow, bevel/emboss, blur, just because you can! Also realise that artwork looks different on screen with tool bars around it, then it does printed out)
5. ENJOY your new obsession for the coming months :)
EDIT: D'OH! My math is bad already - I forgot to count that a lot of the stuff will be wired in parallel... So we can subtract 4 inputs from the dedicated joystick, and 2 inputs from the centre button 1 and button 2 near the spinner. Sooooo - I think that makes it 30 inputs total? Bah. I suck. I'm going to wait for someone to come in and help me.
;D
no, now you have got it right. i do have a question however. any reason you are going with the 2 dedicated spinner buttons, as compared to just using player 1 or 2 buttons?
also, i found that a really nice option for controlling volume on my cab is a program called cabvol. (you would need to search for it, sorry) with cabvol you just need 1 volume button, and while that is being held down your spinner/trackball can adjust the volume. just another option to think about, good luck!
also, i don't know if you looked into it , but I did some googling and here is a stand alone version of super turbo turkey puncher 3. it doesn't seem to allow for customized controls, but it is a start...
Hurry up on your remodeling so you can start working on this, ASAP!
refit new drywall
Yikes! Was your wife OK? That doesn't sound like it was a pleasant fall...
Sounds like a lot of work, but at least you will have solid plans before you begin.
Ehh, don't use drywall, use cement board.
Well Rick no one could accuse you of not being enthusiastic so.........
here are some renders I drew up for you, you do realise this means you're going to have to actually really build this now don't you? ;)
Well Rick no one could accuse you of not being enthusiastic so......... here are some renders I drew up for you, you do realise this means you're going to have to actually really build this now don't you? ;) Tell your wife OND says you've got to build it. Now I gotta go...before MY wife slaps me around for spending too much time on your cab.
So I had PM'd Rick and offered to render up the cabinet in SketchUp. He loved the idea. So I had been busy researching it: I found my old copy of Doom 3 after some digging around, I loaded it up. After playing with the flashlight in game (it's way too dark) I researched some console commands. I found "testlight" to generate a new light source where you're aiming. But it was still too difficult to get good reference shots in game, with the cab stuffed into the corner the way it is.
So I found a model viewer that can render Doom 3's models separately, and went searching for where the files that make up the 3D game model are stored. Finally got that working and took some nice reference images. I used them to outline the cabinet in SketchUp, but it was getting late so headed off to bed.
Gotta put one of these on a gun rack on the wall next to it
(I actually laughed to myself and said, "dude, you're building THAT?") Yeah. It's realll ugly. But hey, all for the art, right? I mean, who else is going to be able to say, "I have an AUTHENTIC (sort of) Doom 3 arcade game from Mars."?
@ Roo - I think the effort you put into getting the reference images from the modeler would be much appreciated by Rick and very useful too.
After the nostalgia this hobby (to me) is all about the art. It's a cool idea, it inspired me to mock up the renders, to me renders are just a useful tool, a reference or a guide to work from. I don't think this cab is or has to be ugly, it might need some tweaking to make it a practical two player machine (I just drew it as I saw it from the images Rick posted) but as an original idea it has great potential. So, there's no attempt to upstage :) it's just me being keen and wanting to help out. Renders are nothing, what's built is what counts.
@Rick - It's a challenging project but enthusiasm and determination are what is most important. I said to a mate of mine when I was in the render stage with my cab "Whatever it takes - I'll make it real" :lol which in my case the "whatever it takes" is still way more than I could have imagined.
I've provided concept drawings to others once or twice before where I thought their design idea was cool, Epyx ran with it and did an outstanding job. Roo's clearer captures could be used to add authenticity so it's all good material to work from.
So, there's no attempt to upstage :) it's just me being keen and wanting to help out. Renders are nothing, what's built is what counts.
Again, I'm wondering if there's a way to squeeze any more resolution out of the pics... If so, or if you can let me know how to do it myself, I'd really appreciate it.
That's a really big TV sitting so close to the player. It needs more room between the screen and the controls maybe? As a side note, it's funny how they reused the art asset for the TV screen, they kind of just stuck it in the model. I think it's a cool look though.
It's not really to scale very well. If you assume based on the size that it's a 27" TV, those would be some really big arcade buttons! I think you'd want to do something like Ond's render, where the "spirit" of the in-game model is intact, but you have two-player controls.
There's no speakers ;D
Thoughts?
Now lets see some sawdust. 8)
Here are version 2 renders based on the images provided by Roo. As far as the geometry goes this version is very close to the 'real thing'. In the 1st version I did, the monitor was tilted back 10 degrees, to be true to the original I restored it to the vertical. Colours and textures updated as well. When you are ready I can PM higher res profile images to prepare cutting plans from. I leave it to you now Rick to adopt what you like from the renders. It was fun drawing these and great to get good source material to work from.
:cheers:
Ond
If only I had the time to put into woodworking like I have for the graphics, this thing would be done by now.
;)
Anyhow, without further ado, I present to you some ideas for the cab. As always, I invite your critiques, ideas and input, as this is in no way a finished product. I'm always thinking, and redesigning and working on things, so any ideas you have, please let me know.
First of all, from the inspiration of rikitiki, who brought us the Encom Prototype Virtual Pinball (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=103778.0), I had the idea to create a manufacturing sticker for the back of the cabinet, to honor it's creation date and (pending) backstory. (Oh, there's more to come, believe me, that will make this thread pale by comparison!)
(Yes. My cabinet DOES, in fact, have a 550MW internal fusion cell.)
;D
Secondly, I have also affixed an "asset tag" so that the Mars base can adequately track stock of all equipment that is in active circulation...
Last, this is my planned mock-up for the control panel... You might note I'm using "Classic Doom" fonts for the text.
So, this is what I have so far... Thoughts?
O.M.G. !!! :applaud:
Those are just incredible! :notworthy:
I love the extras!
I think the CP art is really nice too. I like the way it enhances the in-game version, but stays true to the spirit!
:applaud:
I laughed ---my bottom--- off
good luck man :cheers:
Very cool idea. Be careful though, you will probably need to modify the angle of the monitor so that it is comfortable to view when standing in front of the cab. As it is the monitor is at a perfect viewing angle if your eyes are at nipple-level :)
Pixelhugger?
Look at his .sig and read the thread - he had a mock flyer for his cab before he even cut wood.
You'll note in both drawings, there is a 'darker' bit of the red in there, which is where I'm planning on putting the plexi covering. As you'll note, there's no real 'art' per se, and for that, I'm also looking for suggestions for the printing of the labels. Do I go with a full sheet, or multiple, smaller pieces of printout? Also, does anyone know if there's an option to print 'clear' or 'transparent' paper? I'm also concerned that, even if printed on transparency, that it would be more visible under the plexi. (I could, of course, print a single, large piece of transparency for the entire CP top, which might negate the entire issue. I'll let the experts chime in on this one!)
The size I also chose (so far) is 24" wide by 12" deep. Is this adequate? I also used one of the "Slagcoin" layouts (from here (http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html), and specifically, this one (http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout/matrixs36_m.png)) for my buttons and joystick configuration. If someone can open this up and tell me if it's 'playable' (i.e. do fingers and joysticks and such all line up) and if the spacing between the players is acceptable, then I would be greatly appreciative. I'm sure I'll end up building a panel, drilling and installing before I find the 'sweet spot', but some reassurance is always a good thing!
I'm voting for the first design. Admin and coin buttons are something that I've never liked (just my personal opinion). They scream "MAME machine". I'd vote for keeping those types of function buttons hidden. I don't think it's a big issue to bend over to insert a coin, that certainly never stopped me when I was a kid in the arcade! What stopped me was when I ran out of quarters ;D
I think the method that would be least visible would be to have graphics cut to the exact size, and then adhered somehow to the top of the CP under the plexi. I think that would look most "authentic" to a real arcade cab.
I settled on 28" but that included a trackball. I think 24" is a good size if you don't have a trackball. I used the slagcoin layouts as well. I think they really nailed it when it comes to usable and comfortable layouts. I went with the one that was angled, but that's a design choice here, since the in game one is straight across buttons. My first cab was a commercial MAME cab and the buttons were straight across. It never bothered me, but after testing out the angled layout, I found I liked it even better.
If you want to get rid of any nagging doubts, I'd say go to your local hardware store and buy a cheap piece of particle board or MDF and mock it up. I guess you could even go cheaper with cardboard :P
Looking good! :applaud:
So, I've been diligently awaiting Canada Customs to release my shipment from GGG (y'arr) and have been working on learning a bit of Sketchup. So, after hours of toying with my control panel, I was panning it around my screen to get a better view when I noticed something. This is what I created, close to the original layout...You could put the logo across the CPO as a very subtile watermark. Nothing that takes away from the design just something for folks to see when they take a close look.
(http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/4899/ahas.png)
...and it strikes me how much it looks like this...
(http://static2.videogamer.com/videogamer/images/pub/large/doom_logo.jpg)
Does anybody else think that someone in the software modeling lab had the thought of making the control panel look like the outline of the original DOOM logo? I think that explains why the panel had such an odd shape! I never - NEVER - noticed it before. (More pics are coming as soon as I figure out the top.)
;D
You could put the logo across the CPO as a very subtile watermark. Nothing that takes away from the design just something for folks to see when they take a close look.
I don't think that having the logo etch would be all that hard. I had my plexi cp top cut with a laser and they offer laser etching on the same machine. Laser alliance llc, I had a great expirience with alan. Give it a look.
This is going to look awesome when finished. Keep it up.
It's still rough, and I don't have the dimensions for the TV plugged in there yet, but it's a start. Also - I received my parts in the mail today! Woo!
I would guesstimate around five pieces of 4'x8' MDF would be needed... I will know better soon.
Do the sides really need to be 4 layers thick?
This is going to look great! Please tell me you are going to run the stand-alone version of STTP3 on it's first run?
simply awesome. i really hope you play STTP3 before you play anything else on it..it can't happen any other way. also, dont forget that the originall DOOM works very well with arcade controls
If you went with an 8 button layout (a-la the original from the game) then doom becomes cakes (8-button becomes an alt, allowing 1-7 to be used to select weapons when you push 8)
map player 2's buttons to the weapon keys...
map player 2's buttons to the weapon keys...
make it true to the original! As for the "alt" issue, you can should be able to re-map the doom keys (been a LONG time sense I last played classic doom). But if you are going to make this, go all out man.
6 buttons each should be more than enough. you map the player 2 buttons to the weapons..6 isn't enough for all the weapons, so you set p2 joystick right as the shotgun, so you can just quickly flick your hand over and hit the joystick to switch to the shotgun.
6 buttons each should be more than enough. you map the player 2 buttons to the weapons..6 isn't enough for all the weapons, so you set p2 joystick right as the shotgun, so you can just quickly flick your hand over and hit the joystick to switch to the shotgun.
I like the way you think!
;D
i had DOOM set up on my cabinet a while back and that is how i set it up...it worked pretty well that way
I wonder if there is a way to reverse the capcom theme. So it plays backwards when the video plays. That way it's still there, only slightly bastardized, like Nabcon is totally just ripping them off. And doing a horrible job of hiding it. ;)
Awesome project! :DI'm a suckler for the original myself. The classics never die.
You know I was never big into STTP3. Sure, it was a technical marvel, but had none of the charm of the classic STTP2, the challenge and balance of TP2CE, the frenetic pace of TP2 Hyper Fight Overclockers Green Label Anniversary Edition, or the innovation and polish of STTP3 Delta Niner Rainbow 90-Proof "FTW" Edition.
Keep the faith- so far so good :cheers:
I've never had biscuits swell in anything 5/8 or more - maybe a little while it dries but it's always come back to normal.
*sigh* if only I had the place to work on my cab. You guys and being able to build your stiff.
Wohaaa, nice project u got there Rick. Love the look of it. :applaud:
God I wish I had this kind of patience. :dizzy:
I like the template/one piece idea. Good luck with this!
I'm really sorry. I'm a HUGE stickler for detail, and now that I've realized my original wood working was sub-par, there was no other answer than to start from scratch. Look for progress this weekend. I know I will.
Get to work! :burgerking:
it's near impossible to find a 1 1/8" Forstner bit
My eye is twitching just reading your deadline.
Did you route out the back for the joysticks? THe one you have there looks a little low
I'd rout them out if I were you. It makes a big difference. I've made 3 CPs, and the best thing I did was to take the time to route them.
Then again, they didn't have the same angle yours did, so that might be something to take in consideration.
There's no clearance for me to get a router in there, unfortunately.
If you find you need to route it out why not try a hammer and a sharp chisel?
Also, if you have a Dremel with the router attachment, that would work as well.
The dremel router attachement is pretty cheap and is great for little things. It's basically just a base and also includes an edge guide.
...I could remove it and try to route it out, freehand.
Question: on 3/4" MDF, do you think removing 3/8" would be too much? It would leave 3/8" - half of the original measurement - I'm only concerned that a good yank would rip it out of the panel. I DO have kids.
;)
That I don't know. I never use MDF on control panels. I always use plywood there. The control panel is the most abused part of a cabinet. If you do route out any of the MDF I recommend you cover the control panel with some plexiglass/acrylic type of stuff since kids will be involved. This covering will also add strength. I would avoid Lexan unless you want lots of scratches all over the control panel. You could also use an additional wider washer when mounting the joysticks.
Very nice. I still think the joystick looks short though :) Don't worry about the P2 joystick hole. The dust washer will cover it.
This thread is useless without pics.
(http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/2378/img00418201011061149.jpg)
I'm very impressed with the first layer of primer. If you look really closely, you'll see some black and white versions of the art for the top. (...and yes, I still have yet to fix the P2 joystick hole.)
i love this project, it just doesn't get any cooler than this.
I flush mounted my happ sticks at first and I ended up taking apart my panel so I could recess them with a router. So I personally would also recommend finding some way to get them recessed. It's one of those things that you'll probably regret not doing now. just my 2 cents. The panel looks SWEET.
ugh. I hate painting.
Good luck with the painting, I hear painting MDF is a nightmare, that is why most MDF cabs are laminated. Have you thought about using vinyl or red laminate instead of paint? Then you could top mount your sticks :)
The only real difficulty that arises when painting MDF is what to do about the edges, which are more porous than the surface -- similar to the end grain of lumber -- and drink in most of the finish. I've known woodworkers who go to the trouble of edge-banding the MDF. That approach takes more time than the method I prefer, and, no matter how well the edge-banding has been applied and trimmed, a seam still may show at the very edge. I use drywall compound to fill the edges, whether they are cut squarely or shaped with a router bit, and I apply the compound liberally with a finger or with the palm of my hand. Unlike spackle or conventional wood putties, drywall compound has a soupy texture, so it's a little sloppy going on. But after it dries, it sands off easily.
One thing to remember if you get longer shafts, you will have a different throw and they will feel different. But hey, I don't want to beat a dead horse, if you like the way the stubby sticks feel, then no worries, I would just hate for you to do all this work and end up with something sub optimal in your controls, which is the most important part of the build because that is the part that you actually use to interface with the machine
LOVE, LOVE LOVE the work on the front end.
The front end looks great, Rick! Good job!
All this work and you still haven't punched one turkey? Thanksgiving is sneaking up fast!
Honestly the work so far is totally incredible! I wonder what the game designers would think of your cabinet when it is done?
Good luck with the painting, I hear painting MDF is a nightmare, that is why most MDF cabs are laminated.
/Begin Rant I don't how many times I've seen questions and different approaches to preparing and painting MDF.
Getting a good result with MDF need not be a horror story, just a process that addresses the nature of the material. This is especially true for complex shapes, rounded corners etc. Just a coat of primer and then a coat of paint will most likely result in the all too familiar finish folks refer to.
I wouldn't recommend using dry wall compound, MDF dust and glue, wood filler :blah: :blah: to prepare MDF for painting. They are ALL too soft and porous for a good surface finish. You can get a very good finish on MDF using auto products. Non water based Auto Products people! :lol This means filling nail holes, pits etc with Bondo (or its equivalent), sand back and spray surface with Spray Putty (Pre-Primer treatment), then Auto Primer, then paint. Soaking up problems etc all disappear with this approach. You also end up with a harder surface on which to sand, paint, polish etc. My Goal with MDF or any construction material for that matter (including Plywood) is to end up with a surface where folks take a look and say "what’s that made out of?". Leaving no clue as to the materials used. You want that surface ready for any final look, metallic, glossy, plastic – whatever. Is it expensive? Well it’s more expensive than acrylic primer and home depot house paints. If in doubt, check the results I got on my CP finish as an example. /End Rant.
Looks like you are getting into it now Rick and working your way through the logistics of the Cabs various shape challenges. Just as a thought, the side panels, they don’t have to be really heavy, they could even be hollow and (relatively light). Just thinking outside the box a bit.
:cheers:
found this.
http://shoryuken.com/f177/how-paint-mdf-mirror-finish-worklog-191692/ (http://shoryuken.com/f177/how-paint-mdf-mirror-finish-worklog-191692/)
exactly why I can never be a good painter. WAY too IMPATIENT..
That guy (in the shoryuken thread) spent all that time polishing the surface and it's sitting on top a soft layer of spackle that will most likely collapse if something sharp pokes it. I'm with Ond on not using spackling, etc. on the edges. I don't even trust glaze/spot putty. I don't trust anything that doesn't harden completely. It's a PITA to sand, but fiberglass resin rocks.
Don't settle for that ridge showing. Now is the time to take care of it.
I know you want to get the :angry: thing done, but don't let something that's so easily fixed slide by at this stage. I have a bad habit of doing an awesome job through 85% of a project, then half ***ing it the last 15% to just get it done. Older and wiser men have told me to just stop at that point and go do something else until I feel like doing it right. I've never taken their advice, but I though I'd pass it along to you anyway. :P
You should be able to hide that seam with multiple coats of paint, sanding in between. You might try just painting/sanding the seam area few times to fill, then carefully sand the pain to blend in with the rest.
Oh yeah, you'll almost always end up with some kind of "orange peal" effect when painting, sometimes they're more noticable then others, it is just a matter of applying a coat of paint, letting it dry, the sanding. Be sure to clean the dust away between sanding and painting. You can get a tack cloth to help with that.
When you say the paint is coming off, do you mean that it is drying, but then not sticking to the surface?
Sorry to hear that. I'm actually cutting my CP plexi in the next couple days. I'll keep those lessons in mind. Good to see you're doing it right by re-sanding and painting. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Sorry to hear about your issues with the plexi. Allthough you have to rework the control panel a bit is the cut plexi at least useable?
You are nuts! Good luck! At this rate you will be done by 2015, I imagine, but it'll be worth it!
Thanks! I figure, as long as I beat Pixelhugger, I'll be safe from ridicule!
You need to do a case mod like the classic Mars City one for your pc and let it live outside the cabinet :p
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=802808 (http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=802808)
in case some missed this gorgeous project
That was one of the ideas that spurred me on. I read up on this guy's work about six months ago, and he spared no expense on that mod. It's well beyond any build I've ever seen in how complex it is. The guy really went all out. It is really worth reading every post - I did.
(Actually, because of his mod, I have a plan to build a '550MW power cell' inside the case - sure, it'll never be seen, except in a future reveal, but it's something I'm toying with.)
That Mod is SICK! Are there any finished pics from that thread just seems to stop all of a sudden, or am I missing something?
Thanks! the other thread was a bit of a tease, I had to see that thing done!
I'm going to hook it up to the Media PC I built, attached to our 42" Plasma as soon as it's done
...and not turn into a Duke Nukem Forever
this is a dangerous move, because then many valuable hours of build time will be spent 'testing' various games or 'tweaking' the front end. Dont get distracted from the main event. I really want to see this cab in action, and not turn into a Duke Nukem Forever
So now you're going to have a little Doom 3 'cuckoo' clock next to the cab where a 3D Pain Elemental pops out on the hour, right?
So now you're going to have a little Doom 3 'cuckoo' clock next to the cab where a 3D Pain Elemental pops out on the hour, right?
LOL. No, but I have been toying with carving up a nice "Doom" logo for the kids' room. In 3D. Awesome.
:cheers:
Pictures please!
Wow, your wife must either
a) really love you very much; or
b) secretly hate you very much
to let you do what you are doing without much resistance :)
So when will you start taking pre-orders for custom wood cutout thingies? I'd like to get my place in line. :cheers:
hmmm. can that thing cut things out of plexiglass?
Wow, you could make some NICE CARVINGS with that. ;D
Wow, you could make some NICE CARVINGS with that. ;D
Certainly not as nice as some could do... ...and nobody ask for a picture of me wearing boots, either. You won't like what you see.
:laugh2:
Where have you been Rick? Havent seen you around the boards as of late.
C'mon Rick, do that thangg....
Where have you been Rick? Havent seen you around the boards as of late.
Sorry, I've been really, really busy with work and stuff. The weather has also kept me pretty bummed, as the 'shelter' I had built to work in collapsed under the weight of the latest snowstorm... There is some GOOD NEWS however, and that is this week, all of my dead trees were removed from my property! I had three trees that had to be about 100' high in between my house and the neighbours', and there were four trees along my back fence preventing me from erecting (heh. 'erecting') any building back there...
Which brings me to my new pride and joy. My Wife has given the go-ahead on the project which will bring to life my STTP3 even faster: we're building a 12'x20' workshop when I'm on Vacation in April! I've got plans to put in a full wood shop (full as I see it, anyway) to help me do my building in a nice, clean (and more importantly, dry!) environment. I've already got the Carvewright, as you know, and in the very near future, I'll also be building my own CNC Machine. That means, you should look for custom made arcade shells in the GTA (Greater Toronto Area) soon! (That's one of the things I really want to do - put together a good prototype shell so that I can do my part to get more people involved in building their own!)C'mon Rick, do that thangg....
Soon, my friend. Soon!
Glad to hear you're plans are going forward. Can't wait to see some more work on this. I've got plans to build my own cnc as well. Purchased some plans for the Joes Hybrid 4x4 cnc a few days ago. Going to do the rack and pinion mod on it and make it big enough to cut full 4' x 8' sheets. I have the room so why not.
So how far along is the workshop? I want to see some more STTP action!
The world NEEDS Super Turbo Turkey Puncher.
Put everything else on hold :applaud:
I was wondering about this build!
Get 'er done!
Ughhhh - spent hours trying to remove ONE DAMN STUMP today... Fun stuff, as the damn thing was easily 4' in diameter.
Repurpose the stumps for a future buildmount your mamed taxidermy goat on it.
I feel your pain. Good luck with your stumps!
about time. srsly.
The last couple of days, I completed some of the cuts for the marquee - and better - I used my Carvewright to carve out the speaker area! (It's awesome - on one side, the speakers will be inlaid 3/8" and on the other side, I have carved a 1/4" inset for a speaker grille.)
Anyhow - in lieu of construction pics (as I *just* got back from Niagara Falls today) here is the carving plan... If the RAIN lets up (it's supposed to rain the next three days) I HOPE to get something cut!
HA HA HA! Mother Nature, I LAUGH in your face!
So, our local weather report says that there's a 40% chance of rain on Saturday and a 100% chance of rain on Sunday, so I was concerned. I got a little work done Saturday morning, and visited Family that night. Today, Sunday, I took a bunch of tools outside, and watched the skies. It was overcast, and I waited for the sky to open up - it never came.
Thus, I was able to cut, assemble and fill the entire marquee section of the cab! No pics at the moment - I hope to do some sanding and some extreme Bondo work in the morning, and then complete some sanding and possibly priming tomorrow afternoon. Regardless of what I complete, I promise to post up some pics tomorrow! (Hopefully, with some nice speakers in place - they fit LIKE BUTTER!!!)
So they're slightly soft, melted, and running all over the place? I guess they can baste those turkeys to golden brown perfection.
Nah. I'm sure they look good. Can't wait for pics.
I had to go back and look at the renders in the previous posts to see how this was all going to fit together. Looks really good man. Can't wait to see the main body of this cabinet start coming together. As far as the paints I think a cab as awesome as the STTP would benefit from the Ond painting class and his putty primer. I remember seeing pics of your control panel you did but can't remember what color red it was. Was it a gloss and are you still sticking with that color?
finally some progress. Looks amazing! cant wait to see this when its done!
omg, did santa bring some o' the ol' 967-11-11?
I will certainly continue my search for primer putty
Is it that hard to find? I haven't looked but I was under the impression you could just pick it up at any auto shop like Lordco or CT.
Here is why the Internet is AWESOME.
I posted a link on Reddit (http://www.reddit.com/r/cade/comments/k95vq/my_first_mame_build_is_based_on_a_game_from/) about my game, and a guy came forward and offered to make the actual playable game for me. Hours later, I received a few different E-Mails from him, and a complete version of the game itself! It's awesome, plays just like the game in a game (in a game) from Doom 3 (i.e. you click a button, and it punches a turkey) and I'm going to try and incorporate it into the game! I've asked him if he'd be willing to make a couple of small changes for me, so I can properly map the key ("key", lol) and a couple of small aesthetic changes, but this is awesome. I'll have the perfect meta game when I'm all done!
This weekend is looking pretty good for progress. I've got Family coming over tomorrow to help me clear out two of my sheds, so that I hope to be able to make one of them more of a workshop. It'll definitely make progress a bit easier when the weather isn't the best. If all goes well, I hope to make more progress on Sunday!
Here is why the Internet is AWESOME.
Um, put paint in, attach air line, pull trigger?
I am happy to say that I got the majority of the carving done, but I seem to have a lot of 'hair' in the MDF where it's been routed out. I've read a couple of different sites, where they've said going lightly over it with a torch will do the job, or use Killz primer and sand it out afterward. I don't know which route I'd go, but I do know I want to get a finish as good as Ond's (the 'Gold Standard' around here - heh) so I'm looking for any thoughts on the matter.
...a smooth satin finish just seems to suit this cab design and theme better.
Test both methods on scrap and see which you prefer.
You know what, you'll probably ignore this advice, but in all seriousness If I were building this project myself I wouldn't go for a high gloss finish. Not because a great high gloss finish is hard to achieve (it is) but because a smooth satin finish just seems to suit this cab design and theme better.
I'd still prepare the surface in exactly the same way with the High Build Auto Primer (once you get it). You don't want any evidence of the materials used i.e. in this case MDF, left before applying paint. If you can get the surface to a peel free 600 grit standard you can spray on a quality satin finish paint. I'd still sand it back and all the rest including at least 3 coats, but your final coat? spray it on in a dust free environment and leave it as it dries. It would look really really nice with those greys and reds. Take the time Rick to find that paint, if your going to the considerable effort to build this then don't skimp on the paint. That House of Kolor vid you posted? I know House of Kolor paint products are some of the very best in the world. And your new spray gun? most paints intended for spray guns have the thinner ratio required on the tin the paint comes in. Practice spraying something (scrap) other than your cab until you can get even coats with no runs or dribbles. Regardless of the finish you decide on, wet sanding back (after priming first) with successive finer grades of sand paper and then re priming and repeat sanding is the only real way to get rid of the hairy scratchy ---smurfy--- MDF surface and prepare it properly for paint. No short cuts.
I dunno, I just thought this this cab has the whole 'off world, Industrial Space/SCFI Hardware look, doing it in piano gloss kinda seems contrary to that theme IMO.
The original cab in the game has been on mars for who knows how long. the whole base is already half falling apart BEFORE hell is loosed upon the facility. It looks like it's suppose to be a metal cab with paint on it. that paint is probably chipping. I'd love to see that state of graceful decline. bits of pain flecked off with a gently rusted substrate, scuff marks, etc. It needs to look distressed (:
Chainsaw battle scars, demonblood stains, and some light charring on the backside. You know you want to do it.
Pay a neighborhood kid to wear a Halloween costume and jump out at people as they look at your cab.
When you're right, you're right. It does look like a metal cabinet with paint - so I'm wondering if perhaps going with paint with a bit of texture might be the key? Perhaps that 'hammered' paint might be in order. Hmm. I think I need to do a bit of testing. (I don't think my sprayer would spray that though. I'll do some digging.) If I used a hammered texture, then it might make the cab look even more futuristic and metal-like, don't you think? Something like a cross between a vending machine and a beat-up Airstream trailer.
I was watching an episode of American Restoration and the guy Rick added something to the paint to get that hammered look. (Paint thinner, I believe) I thought he sprayed it. I'll have to see if I can find what episode that was.
EDIT: Found the episode (Grippin' Mad). The effect is called hammertone and is created by adding thinner to the paint. He did spray it. Not sure if this is the effect you are looking for.
From there, I had created a template to create the inlaid 3/4" squares which dot the cabinet, and where I will be drilling a hole and inserting a bolt and washer...
Y U NO RETURN MY EMAILS!?
Just kidding. Anyway, I'm the guy who made the game for him, and I've come bearing good news! I've redone all of my code and actually the entire game itself. Here's what I have implemented so far:
- Turbo Turkey Punching (Main gameplay mechanic)
- Accurate scoring WITH +10/+25/+100 hit indicators
- Music and intro voice over when you start the game
- The head in the top left actually grins when you kill a turkey... just like the real game!
- Implemented standard MAME controls for easy mapping
- Implemented a "start" screen. You actually have to insert a credit to play the game!
What I need to still put in:
- Quit the game when you hit escape
- Saving the high score
- Kill screen (Yes, there will be an end to the game)
- Pulsating colored borders like the original game
- Feather particles when you kill a turkey
By the way Rick, you're doing an excellent job! I'm just oh too honored that I can help!
Y U NO RETURN MY EMAILS!?
Just kidding. Anyway, I'm the guy who made the game for him, and I've come bearing good news! I've redone all of my code and actually the entire game itself. Here's what I have implemented so far:
- Turbo Turkey Punching (Main gameplay mechanic)
- Accurate scoring WITH +10/+25/+100 hit indicators
- Music and intro voice over when you start the game
- The head in the top left actually grins when you kill a turkey... just like the real game!
- Implemented standard MAME controls for easy mapping
- Implemented a "start" screen. You actually have to insert a credit to play the game!
What I need to still put in:
- Quit the game when you hit escape
- Saving the high score
- Kill screen (Yes, there will be an end to the game)
- Pulsating colored borders like the original game
- Feather particles when you kill a turkey
By the way Rick, you're doing an excellent job! I'm just oh too honored that I can help!
When I see those squares in the renders I picture a recessed area with a bolt head. Just a thought you could cut the head off some bolts and glue them into place in those squares. Then paint them the black/gray color. That all depends on what the other bolt holes are going to be used for. Looks or actual fasteners. If they are fasteners I would say hide them. Need to go back and look at the renders though I'm a little confused as to which bolts are doing what.
Just wondering, and I'm sure this all depends on you and Rick, but will this new version be released to the public? Would like to get a copy if that would be possible.
Since I really have no right to ask for it to be privately mine, and since pathartl has done such amazing work all on his own, I'm pretty sure it is fine to open to the public. If pathartl doesn't mind sharing, of course. (Of course, if he says, "no way, this is all for the STTP3 launch - and you can have it 3 months after Rick becomes famous and moves out to L.A. to work for id Software!" that's his choice too.)
I just have one last question (since I don't have anything to do on a daily basis and all), would anyone like Super Turbo Turkey Puncher 4? It'd be real easy to move this over to the classic Doom engine where we could have some 2.5D action.
I would! (But I am NOT making a new cabinet for it!)
;D
Oh come on it can't be that hard to start over ::). I'll probably do it though. I should probably finish the other one first...
(Of course, if he says, "no way, this is all for the STTP3 launch - and you can have it 3 months after Rick becomes famous and moves out to L.A. to work for id Software!" that's his choice too.)
Quote(Of course, if he says, "no way, this is all for the STTP3 launch - and you can have it 3 months after Rick becomes famous and moves out to L.A. to work for id Software!" that's his choice too.)
ID's actually based in N Dallas. My wife happens to work in the same building as where they just recently moved. She says it's pretty funny, because there's all these banker types in suits (she works with banking software) and then all the ID guys coming in in the morning in Ferrari, porsches, and ripped shorts and tshirts.
I told her she should slip her resume under their door sometime. ;)
Damn, thought I fixed that. It was adding 60000 to your score when you killed a turkey instead of 100. Silly me! Here's the fixed version:
http://www.mediafire.com/?s6fhp5n6kcbbw78 (http://www.mediafire.com/?s6fhp5n6kcbbw78)
Be careful, when the finished cab inevitably gets press at Joystiq, Kotaku, etc., you will get all sorts of requests for other fowl pummeling sims (Quail Punter Extreme 3D?). :cheers:
Be careful, when the finished cab inevitably gets press at Joystiq, Kotaku, etc., you will get all sorts of requests for other fowl pummeling sims (Quail Punter Extreme 3D?). :cheers:
I am very hopeful that the cabinet is worthy to be posted on those sites - I read them daily, and would consider it quite an honour. It would also be my pleasure to be able to turn custom arcade cabinets into a full-time gig, but you never know.
;D
Then all you need is a reality show about it on TLC.
Be careful, when the finished cab inevitably gets press at Joystiq, Kotaku, etc., you will get all sorts of requests for other fowl pummeling sims (Quail Punter Extreme 3D?). :cheers:
I am very hopeful that the cabinet is worthy to be posted on those sites - I read them daily, and would consider it quite an honour. It would also be my pleasure to be able to turn custom arcade cabinets into a full-time gig, but you never know.
;D
No pressure. ;D
But a fictional arcade machine from a classic game made real? What an awesome story- I think that would be right up their alley. http://www.joystiq.com/contact/tips/ (http://www.joystiq.com/contact/tips/) and so on when the time is right!
No kidding, eh? Day by day, as I get closer to completion, I feel more and more pride in my work, and yet, there's always that nagging voice in your head, because only you know where all the mistakes are/were.
Just make sure to take low res pics for posting, we wont notice those mistakes ;D
Just kidding - following this thread on the edge of my seat - truly great work :applaud:
So when are we going to get to see more pictures of actual cab pieces? I'm ready to start seeing this thing get put together. No pressure. Keep at it though. I like reading about peoples mistakes as well. When I made the speaker slots for my cab I drilled a starter hole in the wrong spot. :banghead:
I agree, WIP shots are the best, mistakes or not! Rick, btw, do you have some hi res STTP3 art that you could PM me? I'd love to build a theme for Hyperspin!
a picture tells a thousand words...
but seriously... give up the pix!
Is that the way the finished side will look. I thought I read that you were going to have to use 3 sheets of 3/4" MDF to build up the sides for the right look?
each rendering counts as -1 picture+1.. err. 0.. or something.
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_l6oxgen6l81qcaxovo1_500.jpg)
each rendering counts as -1 picture
I think what I like most about this build is how you make everything fun. I'm enjoying following your progress on this unique project. :cheers:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KRbz8EGQfcA/ToR5i8HwXoI/AAAAAAAADwI/2Q45WKo2Ygc/s800/DSC_0158.JPG)
Charger?
I think what I like most about this build is how you make everything fun. I'm enjoying following your progress on this unique project. :cheers:
Translation: "It's too bad your cabinet looks like crap, but at least you can laugh at it."
;)
(I'm kidding! Thanks for reading! I'm having a blast!)
I'm planning on getting more of the front complete before tackling this project, but I'm sure you'll enjoy the quirky nature of what I'm planning here. Let's just say I want to finish it before I'm OUTATIME...
You're either adding a flux capacitor or a Mr. Fusion, aren't you? :)
You're either adding a flux capacitor or a Mr. Fusion, aren't you? :)
While I am considering some internal customization to show an 'alternative power source' (this is the future, after all) my clue has more to do with the door mechanism itself. Let's just say I hope I don't run into any 'hold ups'.
:laugh:
Is the access door going to be DeLorean door style vertical hatch?
Would be cool to have the sound of the doors in DOOM for that effect.
348 replies and 18496 reads later, we now got something that resembles a cabinet! Good job! :applaud: :laugh2:
Would be cool to have the sound of the doors in DOOM for that effect.
OH... HELL... YES!!! (Thank you so much! What a great idea.)
;D
It'll be awesome when your have this 23rd century high-tech cabinet done, and people bug you to set it so they can play Pac-Man! :cheers:
You could use the guns but incorporate them into a "hidden" section on the cab. Maybe on the side (or front if there is room.) Have the hidden door (ala Robocop or something) open up when a gun game is selected via the LEDwiz.
Just how big are the two 'pipes' on either side of the CP? Maybe those could be hollow and get a little linear actuator to slide them out to pull the gun out, triggered via Ledwiz, just like AlienInferno suggested.
Damn, guys. It's like you read my mind. I was playing this over and over in my head all last night. I love the idea of having some type of actuated system to have holsters either slide out from the sides (the pipes idea is awesome, btw) but my concern was having them still 'hidden' enough. (Actually, when I think about how I was going to actually create the pipes on the sides, that is a verrrrry good idea. I'm going to continue thinking about that.)
The idea going through my head at the moment was to use the rear section for a mini 'armory'. I figure, since I'm doing so much work on the back of the cab anyway, why not make the interior more ... effective? You rotate the cab (yes, I'm going to make some rolling casters - this thing needs to be able to roll) open the back door and voila...
(http://www.visualwalkthroughs.com/doom3/underground/1.jpg)
I wanted to have two of the Ultimarc light guns holstered on the bottom, and some type of replica pulse rifle across the top, but have it painted similar to the pic above... ...but now, I'm not sure which way to go - the actuators there are a realllllly cool idea.
That would be pretty awesome.
Will you be using AimTraks? How will you handle cable management? Will the guns' cords come from around the backside to the front during play? EMS Topgun III is wireless... ;)
Also curious about the door for that. A roll top desk style door would be cool... although it's not so futuristic.
Rotating the whole cabinet is a neat idea, but it sounds like a hassle in the long run.
What about hinging the entire CP to rotate down around 30 degrees to open a dock for the guns?
In the end, Rick's going to win the "Arcade Cabinet With The Most Feature Creep" trophy! :cheers:
In the end, Rick's going to win the "Arcade Cabinet With The Most Feature Creep" trophy! :cheers:
Ha! No kidding, eh? I wonder if I should put a Kegerator in there, too?
:laugh2:
And a Tron stick.
Just thinking out loud here, I'd probably need to jump into a cad program to really develop the idea but.... If you move the whole thing with a rotary driver you could have the tilting action driven by some kind of cam arm attached to the disk/servo and some tabs that extend out under the monitor shelf area from the CP to hold downward weight on the end of the CP (front end goes down, back end goes up since the middle bottom is hinged to the cabinet?)
the rear hatch idea is frikkin' awesome! wireless guns would be easier i guess, and that EMS Target box could make for a great airsoft rifle, that you could actually use!
if you do make the whole cab rotate round and use actuators for the door, some sound effects would really be cool!
There are two new mini-games on the computers, instead of just "Turkey Puncher" from the original. One is an artillery game called "Sarge's Big Game Hunt" and the other is an Arkanoid clone called "Hellanoid".
That's funny, right there. I was actually hoping for a couple of new, and inventive additions, but they've just recycled the original cabinets for a couple of new games.
Looks like pathartl has got some work to do! ;)
:bump because Rick's a good guy and we haven't heard from him in a long time. :bump
The problem with online flower ordering, and I've done quite a bit of it, is that florists feel free to shortchange the recipient. After all, if it was impersonal enough to order it online, what are the odds you're going to see it in person or call the recipient and ask about it?
Hadn't realized you started construction on this till now - woodworking looks amazing, can't wait till you can get it moving again!
Hadn't realized you started construction on this till now - woodworking looks amazing, can't wait till you can get it moving again!
+1
Life and work get in the way of any good build. We're all patiently waiting and it looks like it'll be worth the effort!!
I warned the others... YOU'RE ALL DOOM'D!
G'day Rick, welcome back buddy, I don't think you need to apologize for being away at all, sounds like you've had a tough run.
It is good to hear from you though, I thought this project was really interesting back when you got the idea, I still do. It's different and yet has strong ties right into a very cool game franchise.
Kinda timely return too, Epyx is back and keen for his new project and I'm determined to thwart Winter (here) and not go into total hibernation myself. Funny thing, I was thinking about your project just recently and how keen you were when you were 'in the zone' building it. In terms of build difficulty this is perhaps on the higher end of the scale but really worthwhile seeing through.
:cheers:
'Sup, Rick? :cheers:
Oh ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---, it's Rick! Welcome back. ;)
Welcome back! Looking forward to following your progress again.
:cheers: Good to see ya back, Rick!
The bottom rear of this Cab is Sweet...Looking good my friend. :applaud:
Welcome back. Progress is looking real nice. It sounds like you've got a good wife there and your priorities are straight. Sorry to hear about the tough times. Good to see you keep hanging in. Good luck
Spectacular work!. How heavy is that baby? *shudders*
Spectacular.
I love this project so much, and the fact that you returned to it after some time away. (and issues)
I would like for you to have one of my custom serial plates for free. Just come up with what you would like it to say, model number, etc.
I appreciate the offer! I've seen your thread, and thought your idea was great! (So good, in fact, that I was planning on stealing it for mine - LOL.)
I went over my printable materials from waaaaaay back (2010, actually!) and found the two plates I had originally designed - one was a "NABCON manufacturing sticker" serial plate, and the other was an 'UAC Asset Tag'. I wanted to ask - if I sent over graphic files to you, could you (would you) do custom plates? Or do you need to have them in a specific format?
And for the offer - I wouldn't dream of not paying you for the work. From what I've seen, it's very much worth the investment! I'd be happy to pay for any work you did.
well it took me two days but I've read the whole thread and have to say that this is a sweet build. I really enjoyed following along up to this point and I'll continue following along until the end. Least I can do for a fellow canuck. ;)
Glad to see some work getting done on your cab again. It's looking good. This things going to look great when completed and painted. Need to finish my cab still but thinking about upgrading the internals so have just been sitting on it for awhile. Glad your lifes getting back in order.
And now, with no further ado, I post THE PICTURE everybody has been waiting for!!!
(http://i.imgur.com/FIJEGuL.jpg)
Yes, it is in fact, my Casino Royale inspired swimsuit! The La Perla "Grigioperla" (replica) blue swimming trunks just arrived from Australia last week, and I figured I'd share the pic!
Eat your heart out. (And no, we won't be posting a pic of me wearing them *EVER*.)
;)
FTFY
That is why Bondo is such a great thing to have lying around. ;D
such a sexy looking cab :)
How much did/will it cost? Just curious bc I'm going to make my own cab again, but not sure how intricate to go.
In case you're wondering why there's little-to-no progress, perhaps this graphic could shed some light...
(http://i.imgur.com/5B2Vkxp.jpg)
Yes, that's the temperature outside my house. It's not 100% accurate, I'm sure, but it definitely feels close.
Excuses!!
That's 127F! Where are you? Death valley?
your indoor temp is our outdoor temp....and that is stifling. I hope you have a pool or something, that is just inhumane!
That's 127F! Where are you? Death valley?
Southern Ontario, actually.your indoor temp is our outdoor temp....and that is stifling. I hope you have a pool or something, that is just inhumane!
Actually, that's the outside temp. It's 90+ F inside, and that's on my portable AC...
:(
shhhh Rick! We are trying to keep the world thinking we all live in igloos for as long as possible!
oh, dood point eds. I'm heading over for a quick ski, then some outdoor ice hockey, but only if the 20' of snow has been cleared
47 Celsius? Man Canada is hot!
Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk 2
While we're at it can we abolish the bloody imperial measurement system? Who in their right mind uses fractions for precision or speed?I think those 313.9 million Americans would have something to say about that. What's the population in New Zealand again, 4 million? :lol
Fahrenheit or Celsius? I always imagined Canadians had igloos and furry over garments.And I always thought New Zealanders had ...wait...no one actually thinks about New Zealand. Only Australians...they're the same right? >:D :o
It's around 8-10 here in New Zealand this morning.
At least we don't weight things in "stones" ;D:dizzy:
Geez opt2not, look what you gone done now!
Here's an old cab I built a few years ago, for inspiration ^-^
Here's an old cab I built a few years ago, for inspiration ^-^
I am totally confused by posting pics of your build in another builder's build log for no obvious reason. Doing it for, "hey I did it this way" or "see this to clarify my suggestion" is one thing...what's your thing?
Look what I can do!
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/look_what_i_can_do.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/look_what_i_can_do.jpg.html)
Can you make that last picture a little bigger please? :dizzy:
I am totally confused by posting pics of your build in another builder's build log for no obvious reason. Doing it for, "hey I did it this way" or "see this to clarify my suggestion" is one thing...what's your thing?
Wow that's looking awesome so far!
That's no good mate. Do you measure diagonally both ways to check squareness?
Honestly this is one of the cooler projects around.
Tape off the inside of the plexiglass and rough it up with some fine sandpaper. You want it smooth, but foggy looking. When it has a foggy looking appearance, it should be scratched enough for paint to adhere to the surface. Paint the inside of the plexiglass with krylon fusion gloss black spray paint. The paint is made to adhere to plastic. Just follow the directions on the can. From the outside of the plexiglass, the appearance will look like the plastic on the face/rear of an iPhone 4/4S/5.
If you are worried about the light bleeding from a gap, find some 1/4 in foam or rubber insulating tape.
I would recommend against sanding the plexi before painting. I've tried it both ways and am never that pleased with the sanding. I just paint it smooth and it always looks sharp as all get out. YMMV. Test a few scraps and see which you prefer. If you do sand mask off and use a random orbital with the at least a 600 for a smoked look.
I would recommend against sanding the plexi before painting. I've tried it both ways and am never that pleased with the sanding. I just paint it smooth and it always looks sharp as all get out. YMMV. Test a few scraps and see which you prefer. If you do sand mask off and use a random orbital with the at least a 600 for a smoked look.
+1 for not sanding. If you are going for a different look, just make a bezel and sandwich it between the plexi and the screen.
Cheers!
:cheers:
Good job man. Looks great. Any chance we can get a side by side of the real machine and the in game machine.
I would recommend against sanding the plexi before painting. I've tried it both ways and am never that pleased with the sanding. I just paint it smooth and it always looks sharp as all get out. YMMV. Test a few scraps and see which you prefer. If you do sand mask off and use a random orbital with the at least a 600 for a smoked look.
Are you making the super turkey puncher game?
If you need any help let me know, I have a lot of free time on my hand until the end of September.
If you need any help let me know, I have a lot of free time on my hand until the end of September.
Dude, I'd love the help! I'll go and find my Flash files, and send what I have over to you. Thanks!
If you need any help let me know, I have a lot of free time on my hand until the end of September.
Dude, I'd love the help! I'll go and find my Flash files, and send what I have over to you. Thanks!
I await the files. I have a dedicated machine up my sleeves as well based on a game that was never on an arcade
I await the files. I have a dedicated machine up my sleeves as well based on a game that was never on an arcade
Finally pulling the trigger on Extreme Rocks Scissors Paper, huh?
I await the files. I have a dedicated machine up my sleeves as well based on a game that was never on an arcade
Is it Turbotime? 'Cause I also want to build a Turbotime.
Finally pulling the trigger on Extreme Rocks Scissors Paper, huh?
INGAME KEYS
Arrows ---- Move around
Z --------- Ground fire
X --------- Air fire
Esc ------- Pause menu
Ladies and gentlemen, I would like to bid you all adieu. Sadly, it is time for me to part with this project. Yes, I am disassembling my 'manually assembled' Super Turbo Turkey Puncher arcade cabinet that has been moving from room to room for the past few years.
And no, this project is NOT dead. I'm planning on resurrecting this as one of my FIRST THINGS, when I have my workshop built, and when my CNC is up and running.
So it's not a farewell to arms. It's a ... soon to be "perfect". (Or, at least, 'better'.)
So, watch for updates in the coming months. I promise this - the project is not dead. It's just ... resting.
:D
:(And no, this project is NOT dead. I'm planning on resurrecting this as one of my FIRST THINGS, when I have my workshop built, and when my CNC is up and running.
So it's not a farewell to arms. It's a ... soon to be "perfect". (Or, at least, 'better'.)
So, watch for updates in the coming months. I promise this - the project is not dead. It's just ... resting.
:D
:( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :(
And yes I'm sure I just broke a few peoples hearts with this yearly bump. LOL.
I think he scavenged the cab to build his CNC machine...Tug on my heartstrings, why don't you? You bastard. ;)
We've missed you, homie.I think he scavenged the cab to build his CNC machine...Tug on my heartstrings, why don't you? You bastard. ;)
Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
I've missed you guys too. This working full-time thing is a pain in the ass. I gotta get on here more. AND now, I've gotta figure out how to build the Doom cab on my CNC. :DWe've missed you, homie.I think he scavenged the cab to build his CNC machine...Tug on my heartstrings, why don't you? You bastard. ;)
Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk