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So, I'm having an issue where it doesn't seem to be working properly unless I open the GUI then select the port, unselect it, then reselect it. It pops up with an error about the data not being received in time but it will operate fine until I close the error box. I'm on the latest version. Any ideas?

Edit: I think it may be my own fault here. I currently have only the IR camera wired as I like having the full functionality of the other buttons on the controller and am using a program to map them to the keyboard. I will wire the pump and trigger and report back.

I am really enjoying this so far and do really appreciate all the work you've put into creating it!

Hi geecab i managed to combine your code with my code so that my mods only get applied if airborne is loaded up in mame but all the others will use your code. I'm wondering if i should maybe add street drivin' to it because it kinda had a similar issue but not as bad. I notice if i only shift the output left by 7 bits instead of 8 the steering in airborne becomes more like the original games and you can get away with using a port_minmax of 0x000, 0x7ff with a center point of 0x400 or 0x400, 0xbff with a center point of 0x800. It applied EMA smoothing to the wheel output so that it doesn't fluctuate too wildly when turning the wheel and seems to make the wheel stay in alignment when driving for long periods but crashing and holding the wheel left or right  or staying offroad until the timer runs out with the wheel held left or right will knock the centerpoint out of place even if you have the wheel only turned a little bit.

Code: [Select]

    // Merge in the wheel edge latch bit
    if (m_hdc68k_wheel_edge)
    {
        result ^= 0x4000;
        printf("hdc68k_port1_r: merge latch result=%04X m_hdc68k_last_wheel=%04X\n", result, m_hdc68k_last_wheel);
        m_hdc68k_wheel_edge = 0;
    }

    m_hdc68k_last_port1 = result;
    return result;
}
   

uint16_t harddriv_state::hda68k_port1_r()
{
    uint16_t result = m_a80000->read();

   if (m_hdc68k_wheel_edge)
    {
        result ^= 0x4000;
        printf("hda68k_port1_r: merge latch result=%04X m_hdc68k_last_wheel=%04X\n", result, m_hdc68k_last_wheel);
        m_hdc68k_wheel_edge = 0;
    }

    return result;
}


uint16_t harddriv_state::hdc68k_wheel_r()
{
    static float ema_wheel = 0.0f;  // Persistent storage of EMA across calls
    static const float alpha = 0.05f;  // Smoothing factor for EMA, adjustable
    static bool initialized = false;  // To check if ema_wheel is initialized

    uint16_t new_wheel = m_12badc[0].read_safe(0xffff);

    // Display the wheel position when left shift is pressed
    if (machine().input().code_pressed(KEYCODE_LSHIFT))
    {
        popmessage("wheel new=%04X", new_wheel);
    }

    // Determine if the current game is Hard Drivin's Airborne
    bool is_hdrivair = (machine().system().name == std::string("hdrivair"));

    // Separate edge detection logic for hdrivair and non-hdrivair games
    if (is_hdrivair)
    {
        // Use a specific mask for Hard Drivin's Airborne (placeholder for future changes)
        if ((m_hdc68k_last_wheel & 0x0c00) != (new_wheel & 0x0c00))
        {
            m_hdc68k_wheel_edge = m_hdc68k_wheel_edge == 0 ? 1 : 0;
        }
    }
    else
    {
        // Use the default mask for other games
        if ((m_hdc68k_last_wheel & 0x0c00) != (new_wheel & 0x0c00))
        {
            m_hdc68k_wheel_edge = m_hdc68k_wheel_edge == 0 ? 1 : 0;
        }
    }

    if (is_hdrivair)
    {
        // EMA calculation only for Hard Drivin's Airborne
        if (!initialized)
        {
            ema_wheel = new_wheel;  // Initialize EMA with the first reading
            initialized = true;
        }
        else
        {
            ema_wheel = alpha * new_wheel + (1 - alpha) * ema_wheel;  // Update EMA
        }
    }
    else
    {
        // For other games, use the raw wheel data without EMA
        ema_wheel = new_wheel;
    }

    m_hdc68k_last_wheel = new_wheel;

    uint16_t output;
    if (is_hdrivair)
    {
        // Hard Drivin's Airborne specific processing
        output = (static_cast<uint16_t>(ema_wheel) << 7) & 0xFFF0; // Shift and mask for hdrivair
    }
    else
    {
        // For other games, shift left by 8 and set the last hex digit to 0xFF
        output = (static_cast<uint16_t>(ema_wheel) << 8) | 0xFF;
    }

    // Return the processed wheel value
    return output;
}



Lots of interesting design and problem solving going on in this project! I like that you designed first in SketchUp. I'm not sure what VP software you are using but Visual Pinball allows for direct top down viewing if you configure that way. Direct top down viewing IMO loses something of the realism that some angle and perspective achieves though. Watching for your next updates! 

https://rateyourmusic.com/list/LowFidelity/100-favorite-arcade-games-for-mame/
looking at this site for my top games to try.
I have looked all day to find a list of ROM names to full arcade games title. NO LUCK AT ALL
so I find a game I like and google Mame rom name. a download site pops up with the MAME name.
so then I search my my file for the MAME name.non-merged set

12 hrs to download. I got the right M.A.M.E. set
 to test out

For mounting the lcd monitor I initially wanted to just use a simple wooden board. But I noticed that a lot of virtual pinball games don't let you change to viewing angle to one that is directly from the top of the playfield, it is usually still at an angle. With the screen already being at the common pinball angle, this would make the playfield angle tilted backward for the player. To combat this, I figured there was some room behind the monitor so I could be tilted to correct the viewing angle. So the simple board became a figure with attachment points for hinges and latches to secure it.




My next challenge was coming up with a mounting system for the control panel. I wanted the panel to be easily serviceable and also removable in case I want to swap it out with a different control panel. On top of that I also did not want any visible screws. I found a solution in using screws as a hinge. I first drilled a big hole that would fit the head of the screw. Then on the side I drilled smaller holes that I filed out to fit the shank of the screws.





Time for some assembly. Here I'm fitting the control panel box together. I used a piece of the dresser with the brand as the front piece because I found it a fitting reminder of it's origins.


I'm using metal angle brackets to connect it all. By not using dowels and glue it would be more likely I could fix any mistakes if my design was insufficient. I had to make the bottom panel in two pieces, because I thought I would have plenty of would from the dresser, and so I used one of the panels as an under layer when I was cutting and it got a lot of saw marks on it. It turned out I dit not have plenty of the would I needed :s. Luckily it was only the bottom so no biggie.




Test fitting the monitor on the mount.



Creating the monitor pivot point.

I will replace the Hard Drive. But to be honest I know nothing about M.2.
I have some studying to do.

Financially this project is stupid. after all the upgrades I could have bought a HP EliteDesk from Amazon for $130. I have one and use it for my main computer.

But I am having a grate time setting this New / Old PC up. all the parts I am putting into it a still Brand new.

 I can not explain it . but keeping everything new , is important to me. And I bet when I am done it might just go on a shelf. But I am having a blast doing it.

A-Tech 8GB RAM for HP Thin Client t620/t620 Plus | DDR3 1600 SODIMM PC3-12800 1.5V 204-Pin Memory Upgrade Module (x2) coming in May 3rd

 SATA to USB 3.0 Adapter, External Hard Drive Converter Cable for 2.5" 3.5" HDD, SSD with Power Supply coming in tomorrow.

USB Hub 3.0, 7-Port USB Hub Splitter with Individual On/Off Switches and Lights, 3.2ft/1m Long Cable Compatible with MacBook, Laptop, Surface Pro, PS4, PC, Flash Drive, Mobile HDD. coming in tomorrow.

USB hub,4 Port 2.0 USB Splitter Expander,USB hub for Laptop,MacBook,Surface Pro,PC, Flash Drive,Mobile HDD.  coming in tomorrow.


 

I was pulling my video cord out of one of my PCs. To let my daughter use. OMG the computer was NASTY!!!!
 I took the fan off the video card. The thermal past is hard as concrete .I am making headway but I am having to really use the 91% Isopropyl alcohol. For some reason I never gave the the video card a thought. Also from the Factory. The used way to much thermal past .
CPU cooler is next.
Side note this is not my new little Thin Client. These are HP ProDesck  I 5 and I 7 CPU's. Old PC's work just fine for me.
after Playstation 2,  and Wii . Emulation . I am just not interested.

Hello all, first post. 

I'm a handy guy, and do a lot of DIY electronics projects. While I'm planning a larger arcade clone build at some point, most of my arcade or classic console stuff takes place on a Raspberry Pi 3 on a small 13" CRT. I really like the setup, but I really hate mapping Neo Geo arcade controls to a SNES or Playstation type controller, so I decided to take a USB Nintendo 64 controller I never use and chop it up to be the brain in a miniature arcade control deck, with a few twists.

Principal changes-

Purple instead of red overlay- I happen to like purple so decided to have a little fun.
Compact size for single player use. To fit this I am using 16mm buttons, and found some on Amazon that have worked well for other projects for me in the past.
four individual buttons to simulate a D-pad layout, rather than an arcade stick. (my son does not like arcade sticks)
two extra buttons on the sides of the panel so I can do Gamenoy Advance or Super Nintendo with the controller as well.

Just attached a few pics of the panel art I am using, and of the buttons I choose. Also included an example of what my panel will look like fairly close when done from this thread-
https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,120322.0.html

I laid out the buttons by hand last night to make up the D-pad layout on some 1/2" plywood, and will likely begin on drilling out the holes and countersinking the rear of the panel tomorrow. I was able to print out a few copies of the overlay that I adapted from the linked thread that should work great when scaled to the length of a standard 8 1/2 x 11" piece of paper- making the overlay/template come out to 10 7/16 x 4 1/4".

That's all for now, hopefully I'll take some progress pictures later tonight or tomorrow afternoon- I am still in the early stages of it now.