The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: yrrkoon on February 18, 2020, 11:25:31 am
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Before I jump into a real cabinet, I'm going to build a little test bed to play with the software and wiring and confirm that I want to jump into a more elaborate project. This will allow me to:
- experience what it's like wiring up a CP with multiple controls to a PC
- experience what it's like getting MAME and various games working with it all
- experience how to get LED blinky working for the stick, buttons, etc
- experience how to get a frontend UI working
- confirm that i would find a more elaborate project as fun a hobby as i think it'd be
- confirm that i'd enjoy playing a retro arcade in my house
I want to make a basic CP that i can place on top of my computer desk and connect to my current PC.
I'm looking to just make a rectangular box. In it will be:
- 1 Servostick
- 6 LED Buttons
- 1 start button
- 1 trackball
- 1 spinner
I think I want to arrange them from left to right - stick, buttons, trackball, spinner. My first problem is to sketch up a design and i'm not sure how far to space each control from one another. Not even the buttons. So I'm looking form some help on how to figure that out.
Is there a template or resource that I can draw from to create a basic panel layout like this?
Thanks!
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slagcoin.com has templates for joystick and button spacing.
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I made full sized mockups on inexpensive 3/4" particle board...
tested on the bench and found the height and angle that was most comfortable..
and with a screen positioned at the right spot - then designed around that..
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Before I jump into a real cabinet, I'm going to build a little test bed to play with the software and wiring and confirm that I want to jump into a more elaborate project. This will allow me to:
- experience what it's like wiring up a CP with multiple controls to a PC
- experience what it's like getting MAME and various games working with it all
- experience how to get LED blinky working for the stick, buttons, etc
- experience how to get a frontend UI working
- confirm that i would find a more elaborate project as fun a hobby as i think it'd be
- confirm that i'd enjoy playing a retro arcade in my house
I want to make a basic CP that i can place on top of my computer desk and connect to my current PC.
I'm looking to just make a rectangular box. In it will be:
- 1 Servostick
- 6 LED Buttons
- 1 start button
- 1 trackball
- 1 spinner
I think I want to arrange them from left to right - stick, buttons, trackball, spinner. My first problem is to sketch up a design and i'm not sure how far to space each control from one another. Not even the buttons. So I'm looking form some help on how to figure that out.
Is there a template or resource that I can draw from to create a basic panel layout like this?
Thanks!
That’s basically how I got started. Good luck!
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Finally gonna dip your toe in, eh yrrkoon?
Did you go with the Rotary add-on for the stick?
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Finally gonna dip your toe in, eh yrrkoon?
Did you go with the Rotary add-on for the stick?
Hey Arroyo! Heh nope :). I got sticker shock buying it all at once so decided to do a phase 1 and phase 2. phase 1 is just the bare minimum (LED stick, buttons, ipac). phase 2 i'll add the rotary, trackball, and spinner. So i plan to make the CP large enough to accommodate all of it but initially won't populate it with everything yet. btw, got my parts yesterday!
(https://ibb.co/bJ7rNSX)
Thank you for all the help and feedback everyone!
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weird my image isn't displaying. uploaded it to imgbb.com and inserted it with an img tag but nothing. whats the trick to sharing photos?
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weird my image isn't displaying. uploaded it to imgbb.com and inserted it with an img tag but nothing. whats the trick to sharing photos?
Your link doesn’t appear to end in .jpg or another picture standard. Check your link again it should have the name of the image followed by the image extension (.jpeg, .gif, etc.)
You can modify your previous post and correct the link.
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Your link doesn’t appear to end in .jpg or another picture standard. Check your link again it should have the name of the image followed by the image extension (.jpeg, .gif, etc.)
You can modify your previous post and correct the link.
imgbb.com doesn't supply an URL with a filename extension. what hosting service are you using?
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imgbb.com doesn't supply an URL with a filename extension. what hosting service are you using?
Most of us just upload the pictures here on BYOAC:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=159740.360 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=159740.360)
The link is at the top of the Project Announcements main page.
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Most of us just upload the pictures here on BYOAC:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=159740.360 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=159740.360)
The link is at the top of the Project Announcements main page.
how does that work? you attach the image to a post over in that thread and then somehow link it to your actual thread? How do you do the later?
first forum software that i've seen where i can't simply post my imgbb.com URL and it works. :-\
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how does that work? you attach the image to a post over in that thread and then somehow link it to your actual thread? How do you do the later?
Attach the image. Then after it shows up in the picture thread, right click the image and select copy address (or copy depending on the OS)
Then in this thread click the image tags [IMG][/img
And paste between the image brackets. So it might look something like this:
[IMG] http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381406;image[/img
Just get rid of the quotations as I put this in so you could see the text instead of the actual picture.
Edit: that didn’t work, so instead close the [/img tag with a bracket at the end
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381418;image)
heh interesting way of doing things. thanks!
test pic of my parts. wait, that didn't come out right..
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Hey Arroyo where did you get your laminate and t-molding from? I'm looking to play with both a bit for this test.
Also does anyone know what the little black switch is for that comes with the servostick and the Ipac? There is one in the photo i posted next to the yellow actuator and one at the far end of the counter past the ipac.
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ok whats the trick to printing those layout images on slagcoin.com to scale?
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Hey Arroyo where did you get your laminate and t-molding from? I'm looking to play with both a bit for this test.
Check this thread where it’s thoroughly discussed:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=161799 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=161799)
Also does anyone know what the little black switch is for that comes with the servostick and the Ipac? There is one in the photo i posted next to the yellow actuator and one at the far end of the counter past the ipac.
That’s a standard microswitch used on buttons and joysticks. Not sure why you would have received one, maybe a spare part?
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ok whats the trick to printing those layout images on slagcoin.com to scale?
The file should be to scale, just have to make sure when printing that you select “to scale” in your printer settings before printing. All the professional printing places have this option (Kinko’s, etc)
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The file should be to scale, just have to make sure when printing that you select “to scale” in your printer settings before printing. All the professional printing places have this option (Kinko’s, etc)
ya i don't seem to have a setting that forces it to keep it at scale. tried different programs and the vanilla windows 10 printer device dialog but struggling with it. i'll figure it out eventually. something like this shouldn't be that hard! :D
anyways I started sketching a simple CP out after looking through numerous CP's particularly the ones on slagcoin and yours Arroyo. I think i'll just go with a simple 16 x 8 slanted (5-8 degrees) CP which i figure should be enough space to accommodate the stick, 6 buttons, trackball, and spinner. Working on the layout now. I'll probably paint the bottom, throw some t-molding around the top, and a layer of laminate on top just to get some practice with those things. A few questions are coming to mind as i do this though..
1. where do i buy rubber feet for this thing?
2. if i make the bottom see-through, where do i get some plastic?
3. how big do i make the interior? A lot of the ones on slagcoin are ~1.5" or less inside which strikes me as tight given the trackball dimensions are ~2.3" depth and the Stick 2.1". Even if i route the top board and the controls are recessed somewhat it seems like going any less then 2" is crazy at least where the controls rest.
4. at some point i'll want to make my wiring neat and tidy. i need to research various ways of doing this. of the CP's i've seen the ones that look like they're ziptied or something are tidy but i don't know how they route the bundle of wires so neatly. something to look into..
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1. where do i buy rubber feet for this thing?
I bought some off Amazon. Specifically these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B0YDRM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_QgXwNrbZQh1xP (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B0YDRM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_QgXwNrbZQh1xP)
Just search for it on the web or Amazon. AliExpress is great for this kind of stuff as well, although it takes awhile to get here.
2. if i make the bottom see-through, where do i get some plastic?
I’ve mainly used Tap Plastics, they have local shops, are very helpful, and cut to size. There of course are other options online as well.
3. how big do i make the interior? A lot of the ones on slagcoin are ~1.5" or less inside which strikes me as tight given the trackball dimensions are ~2.3" depth and the Stick 2.1". Even if i route the top board and the controls are recessed somewhat it seems like going any less then 2" is crazy at least where the controls rest.
Most of those are designed for joystick only. Using a trackball will most likely require an increased depth (height of panel top). You can route out material but that is more work and takes more practice to get it down right.
4. at some point i'll want to make my wiring neat and tidy. i need to research various ways of doing this. of the CP's i've seen the ones that look like they're ziptied or something are tidy but i don't know how they route the bundle of wires so neatly. something to look into..
There’s always shrink tubing if you want to combine multiple wires and make it look neat:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071H5XC7C/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_pWYvEbY2SYE0T (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071H5XC7C/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_pWYvEbY2SYE0T)
You use a heat gun and it shrinks around the wires and makes it look like one big black wire. Zip ties and Velcro stapled/screwed to the wood worked as well.
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Thanks as always Arroyo. Super helpful. I'm pretty sure I owe you at least one bottle of wine or a growler of beer by now.. :)
I decided to grab a notepad and sketch roughly what i'm looking to build. Pretty simple really. It seems like if I make it 2' x 1' in size, that should separate the controls comfortably enough. Mind you, I have no real science behind that other then eyeballing it. Thoughts? Here is my basic sketch..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381544;image)
I did some shopping today. Ended up buying a 2'x4' sheet of 1/2" birch plywood after realizing at home cheapo that if i build this thing out of 3/4" it's going to be really heavy. The 1/2" stuff seemed plenty strong for this application and much easier on the weight. I had to search quicklike to confirm that they do indeed make 1/2" t-molding.
I think that i'll skip a plastic bottom. No real point. But i do want to hinge the top. I got the same hidden hinges that you used Arroyo :). I also want to make the top deck larger then the box it sits on so i'm thinking a 1/2" or 3/4" lip all the way around.
Laminate is a problem. I really want to cover the top deck with it but i'm concerned about the commitment to buy a 4'x8' sheet and the glue and things that go with it just to do a small test CP. uhg.. Anyone got a 2' x 1' sheet they can sell me for $10 and a cup of glue? lol
I've been buying various bits and screws that I think that i'll need. Feels like i'm getting close to actually trying to build something. I need to get my miter saw from my brother and borrow his table saw and router table. Then I just need a day. Two weekends from now looks promising. Considering the amount of work this all is, i'm starting to have doubts that i have it in me to do an entire stand up cabinet when I know that I can just buy one. The amount of stuff that you have to learn about and time is not trivial. But that's the point of the test CP. baby steps :)
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You would probibally be miles ahead if you just bring the wood to your brother's, it would be easier than moving all that equipment, and he probably knows not only how to use it safely and efficiently...But the limitations of what his saws are capable of.
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I'm pretty sure I owe you at least one bottle of wine or a growler of beer by now.. :)
I like beer ;-) really into Fieldwork if you’ve heard of that, probably my favorite right now.
Thoughts? Here is my basic sketch..
Looks good, I think it’s a really good idea to start of with something small like this so you can get a sense of how to work with the tools, and as you said see how much you like it. Good call. Only thing I would mention is make sure you leave enough room for you left hand on the left edge of the joystick. Don’t want it feeling like it’s in the edge or about to fall off.
I did some shopping today. Ended up buying a 2'x4' sheet of 1/2" birch plywood after realizing at home cheapo that if i build this thing out of 3/4" it's going to be really heavy.
Having worked with both sizes I really don’t think it adds much weight, and it is a bit sturdier. Having said that I’m sure you’ll be fine, that’s what I used on my box. I only wish I’d bought better stuff, especially if you are going to paint it. The cheap stuff means a lot more work getting the surface smooth.
But I do want to hinge the top. I got the same hidden hinges that you used Arroyo :).
Nice, they are a bit of a pain to route out correctly, especially on an angle, but it’s a great learning opportunity with the router. Let me know if you need help.
Anyone got a 2' x 1' sheet they can sell me for $10 and a cup of glue? lol
I have extra but it is tuff to ship and not sure you’d want to drive out here to get it but your welcome to if you want me to cut you off some. What are you planning on using it on?
Then I just need a day.
Ha! I guess it depends on what all you want to do, but plan on many weekends, especially if this stuff is new to you. It always takes way longer than you think.
Two weekends from now looks promising. Considering the amount of work this all is, i'm starting to have doubts that i have it in me to do an entire stand up cabinet when I know that I can just buy one.
There’s something to be said for this, if you find in building this panel you don’t enjoy the process then yeah, building a whole cab probably isn’t worth it. There are a number of companies that will build you one for a relatively good price. Just don’t maim for MAME.
The amount of stuff that you have to learn about and time is not trivial. But that's the point of the test CP. baby steps :)
Exactly, but it’s a lot of fun if you like learning new things.
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You would probibally be miles ahead if you just bring the wood to your brother's, it would be easier than moving all that equipment, and he probably knows not only how to use it safely and efficiently...But the limitations of what his saws are capable of.
That's probably true but these are site tools that aren't that hard to move. We do it every few months since we each own about half the tools and just shuttle them back and forth. But I may do that since I don't have that many cuts to do. Maybe just plan what i want to do ahead of time and have a beer with him :).
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I like beer ;-) really into Fieldwork if you’ve heard of that, probably my favorite right now.
Indeed I have! My wife frequents there with her girlfriends and brings me back growlers of their different hazy's. Very yummy and smooth! You have good taste!
Looks good, I think it’s a really good idea to start of with something small like this so you can get a sense of how to work with the tools, and as you said see how much you like it. Good call. Only thing I would mention is make sure you leave enough room for you left hand on the left edge of the joystick. Don’t want it feeling like it’s in the edge or about to fall off.
Good point, i'll template it out before i do any cuts and make sure I like how it feels. That'll give me a chance to nail down the size of the thing a bit more too.
Nice, they are a bit of a pain to route out correctly, especially on an angle, but it’s a great learning opportunity with the router. Let me know if you need help.
I just realized with my going to a 1/2" piece of wood i probably can't use those hinges. Bummer.. Unless i get inventive perhaps.
There’s something to be said for this, if you find in building this panel you don’t enjoy the process then yeah, building a whole cab probably isn’t worth it. There are a number of companies that will build you one for a relatively good price. Just don’t maim for MAME.
oh i definitely enjoy it. But there are so many other things I also enjoy that at the end of the day I have to figure out how to spend what limited offtime i have. I may just chip away at it and make it a multiyear project ultimately :D
Anyways I was thinking of using the laminate for the top surface rather then just having wood or painted wood. I don't want to use plastic either. Plus it'd give me some practice applying some of the stuff.
I'm also thinking of this style of assembling the controllers. Where I route the bottom a bit and screw them in from the top using countersunk screws. Then the top piece of wood is attached with hinges. Seems like the simplest approach for me and allows for a sheet of laminate. The bottom box i'll throw together with wood glue and pocket screws.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381549;image)
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Time to order my spinner. Whats the difference between a small and large flyweight? I'm not sure which one to get.
Also what use is the bezel that is an option for the trackball? Looking at the photos, it doesn't seem necessary..
I was figuring that I don't need the USB interface options given that I have the IPAC ultimate. Does that sound right?
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The bezel that goes around the trackball is nice. It is a black ring that slides over the trackball mount and looks slick on the top sheet. Something of note though, be sure to thoroughly read the install instructions and buy the proper tools for the job. I used a scrap piece of wood to do a mockup of the install, minus hammering in the expanding inserts for the screws. Also, the thickness of the wood for your panel should be 5/8" if you want the trackball to sit flush. I made the mistake of using 3/4" plywood and there is a 1/8" drop from the top of the bezel to the trackball. Not the end of the world but it would look a lot better if it wasn't there.
The trackball will connect directly to your iPac slot labeled "trackball" without the need for the USB. However, the length of the wires coming from the trackball is only 6-8 inches long. Be sure to mount your iPac close enough to the trackball that it is an easy install. Otherwise you will have to extend the wires.
I cannot speak for the spinner. I did not install one in my cabinet. Best of luck! Post some pics when you get everything installed.
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The bezel that goes around the trackball is nice. It is a black ring that slides over the trackball mount and looks slick on the top sheet. Something of note though, be sure to thoroughly read the install instructions and buy the proper tools for the job. I used a scrap piece of wood to do a mockup of the install, minus hammering in the expanding inserts for the screws. Also, the thickness of the wood for your panel should be 5/8" if you want the trackball to sit flush. I made the mistake of using 3/4" plywood and there is a 1/8" drop from the top of the bezel to the trackball. Not the end of the world but it would look a lot better if it wasn't there.
The trackball will connect directly to your iPac slot labeled "trackball" without the need for the USB. However, the length of the wires coming from the trackball is only 6-8 inches long. Be sure to mount your iPac close enough to the trackball that it is an easy install. Otherwise you will have to extend the wires.
Thanks super helpful! In my case i have a 1/2" sheet of wood so it sounds like i'll have the opposite problem and will have to find a way to insert some spacing in there.
I was also wondering about the wiring extension and whether to get it. Think i will just to be on the safe side.
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Yeah, the 1/2" wood might give you trouble. You definitely want the plastic trackball surround to sit below your top sheet. Oddly enough 1/2" plywood is actually 15/32" thick. 5/8" is 19/32" thick. If you added an insert of 1/8" plywood (7/64" thick), on paper it would equal 5/8" but the actual dimensions would leave a 1/64" stickup above your top sheet. That is about 0.4 mm. The bezel will likely slide down to your topsheet and you'll a very small lip above the bezel. it shouldn't be that noticeable.
You'll want to glue and press the two pieces of wood together though and drill the expandable screw insert holes to spec. I had a buddy come over and smash the living %^&*( out of the trackball while playing golden tee. The whole trackball dropped out... The issue was that I had to bore out two of the holes ever so slightly to get the screws to fit properly. This lead to less stability from the mounting screws that my buddy hulked right out of the plywood. If it isn't too late, I might consider getting a quarter sheet of 5/8" plywood and use your current setup as a template.
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well we may as well work on projects while we're stuck at home eh? :)
I got my trackball, spinner, and ikari 8 way upgrade today. sadly i have to choose between the ikari upgrade or making my stick glow as you can't do both. since they forgot to send me a switch plate for the upgrade, i'll go with a glowy stick for now.
I started playing with my layout. Thinking perhaps this. 11" x 20" top sheet.
I'm trying to position the stick and buttons such that i have some space for my hands to rest to the left and below them..
4" feels like enough between the buttons and the track ball..
Finding a spot for the spinner is more tricky since i'm guessing if i put it too close to the trackball i'll hit it. So atm i'm just trying to eyeball a location that doesn't feel horrible without making the whole thing too big.
Feels about right atm..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381959;image)
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Make sure to draw the outline of the stuff below your outlines. For example the trackball takes up a lot of space underneath the hole at the surface. Draw the outline of that housing underneath on the top so you make sure to leave enough spacing between components.
As for your earlier question about the fly wheel on the spinner, it provides weight to the spinner when turning it. In my opinion the heavier is kinda the better. Without it the spinners can feel like a cheap toy rather than a real control.
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Make sure to draw the outline of the stuff below your outlines. For example the trackball takes up a lot of space underneath the hole at the surface. Draw the outline of that housing underneath on the top so you make sure to leave enough spacing between components.
As for your earlier question about the fly wheel on the spinner, it provides weight to the spinner when turning it. In my opinion the heavier is kinda the better. Without it the spinners can feel like a cheap toy rather than a real control.
ya good suggestion. I was going to do something along those lines but hadn't investigated the clearance of the trackball yet. Turns out it was too tight against where the rightmost board would be. So i'm widening the top board 0.5" and while I was at i decided to drop the trackball down 5/8" and centered it with the lower row of buttons. I did this to provide a bit more separation from the spinner and it seems more comfortable.
atm i'm thinking i'll have a 1/2" overhang all the way around on the top board (vs the rest of the "box"). i'm also going to round the edges of the top board and see if i can't put some 1/2" t-molding around it.
i also still plan to angle the top board some amount. haven't figured out how much yet. perhaps 8 degrees like the one box on slagcoin.com.
i'm not going to hinge the top board afterall. Instead i'll probably go with a plexiglass bottom that is removable with screws in case it ever needs maintenance.
anyways, just sketching out all the cuts and pieces i need to make so i can head over to my brothers.
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So, I reached out to my brother to go do my cuts using his table saw last weekend and he wasn't available so I got impatient and grabbed my circular saw. It's just a test panel after all right? A few cuts in I realized it wasn't going well. Making straight cuts with a circular saw freehand is a challenge to say the least. Yeah, I should've used a guide. Needless to say, I butchered the cuts and stopped 3 boards in.. ;D
In hindsight it's a blessing in disguise though. The 3 boards allowed me to prop my panel to see what it was looking like and I realized that I don't like it (see photo). It's too tall, and the slope is more aggressive then i had in my mind. So minimal effort spent and in hindsight it let me feel out what the thing would look like. Frankly, if i did this again i'd recommend buying 2 boards and doing something similar to test out your concept.
A big reason it ended up so tall is i was planning on putting the LED ball on my joystick which has an obnoxiously long bar and wiring. So after seeing this, I think i'll remove it and just use the non-lit version so that i can drop the panel height a ton (~2" lower).
The slope was around 11.3 degrees which didn't seem like much on paper. But when I saw it, It's quite a bit. So i'm thinking that i'll go down to 8 degrees. I *think* that'll be closer to what i was after. The front should be around 2.5" and the back around 4.5" in height which when eyeballing it seemed "better". we'll see i guess. if anyone has any opinions fire away. I initially thought a more aggressive slope would be preferable since i was putting it on my desk in front of my computer monitor. but i'm rethinking that.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382179;image)
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I got impatient so I ended up buying my own table saw - something I've wanted anyways in the past. Being stuck at home with a hobby was just an excuse to push me over the edge.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382351;image)
So I got to cutting. After a mistake or two and a trigonometry error I had my pieces and did a quick dry fit to see how i liked the size/slope/feel..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382352;image)
It feels great. So I got to rounding the corners with my new router guides. Unfortunately without a router table it was kind of hacky but I'm happy enough with it..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382353;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382354;image)
Then I drilled out some of my holes. I don't have the cutter for the trackball yet but the others came out ok. No drill press. Not as clean as I'd like but part of that was my impatience. Nothing that anyone will see anyways..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382355;image)
Then I grabbed some of my previously screwed up cp pieces and tried out the pocket jig for the first time. Once I figured out where I wanted to use it, I made my holes and assembled the whole thing with some wood glue..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382356;image)
So here it is after this weekend. Looks and feels pretty good and what I was after as a start.. I will re-enforce it a bit.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382357;image)
Next step is to fill those exterior pocket holes somehow. Whats the best way to do that and end up with a decent painted finish result? I'll probably repair my drilling blowouts too while i'm in there before i sand everything. Since I plan to make the bottom see-through and removable I should keep the inside clean I figure.
I'll add some support in the corners and a ledge for the plastic to screw to on the bottom.
Also I want to paint the lower half. Will probably just use some enamel spray paint and primer with sanding.
Got my laminate for the top layer and ordered my t-molding to route around the edge.
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Nice job dude. That’s a solid first attempt. Didn’t know about the router rounding guides, interesting. On those button holes. One technique that I’ve come to really like is drilling a template with a forstner bit and then using it as a guide while using the router with a flush trim bit. Ideally you have a drill press with the forstner to make sure it’s at a perfect right angle. Bought mine from the Depot for around $100. It’s the only “cheap” tool that I haven’t felt the need to replace.
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Use a hole saw. drill the bottom of the CP until the pilot bit pokes through, then flip it over and use the pilot hole as a guide. Nice, clean, fast holes.
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Next step is to fill those exterior pocket holes somehow. Whats the best way to do that and end up with a decent painted finish result? I'll probably repair my drilling blowouts too while i'm in there before i sand everything. Since I plan to make the bottom see-through and removable I should keep the inside clean I figure.
Any reason not to laminate the entire thing, looks small enough to be able to get the laminate for cheap enough.
Alternatively Bondo will be your friend for the hole filling, There are a few tutorials about if you've never used it before. (Using the right amount of hardener is key).
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382353;image)
Those router guides look kinda cool. I've not seen them before.
What do you think of that Dewalt cordless router?
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If you like the corner radius guides, you can buy them pretty cheap on Amazon. Places like Woodpecker and Rockler charge a bunch for them.
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Next step is to fill those exterior pocket holes somehow. Whats the best way to do that and end up with a decent painted finish result?
Is there a reason you did them on the exterior instead of interior ?? Seems it would have been easier to do them on the interior in the first place rather than have mess with filling etc. after doing them on the exterior side !
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Next step is to fill those exterior pocket holes somehow. Whats the best way to do that and end up with a decent painted finish result?
Is there a reason you did them on the exterior instead of interior ?? Seems it would have been easier to do them on the interior in the first place rather than have mess with filling etc. after doing them on the exterior side !
The way those boards were cut you would need a pretty snub-nosed drill to get those pocket screws in. I suspect that is the reason.
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Next step is to fill those exterior pocket holes somehow. Whats the best way to do that and end up with a decent painted finish result?
Is there a reason you did them on the exterior instead of interior ?? Seems it would have been easier to do them on the interior in the first place rather than have mess with filling etc. after doing them on the exterior side !
The way those boards were cut you would need a pretty snub-nosed drill to get those pocket screws in. I suspect that is the reason.
I did them on the inside on my previously butchered cp test boards first thinking i could avoid filling them afterwards and quickly found that they don't hold securely because the screw is orienting outwards towards the edge of the board that you're drilling into. It didn't take much pressure to separate the two boards - the plywood would just splinter apart. By placing them on the outside, the screws drill inwards into the board that you're mating to and are much more secure.
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If you like the corner radius guides, you can buy them pretty cheap on Amazon. Places like Woodpecker and Rockler charge a bunch for them.
That's where I got them. $27 on amazon. Clever little devices at have 4 curves depending on how you flip them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081V9QV7D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081V9QV7D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
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Any reason not to laminate the entire thing, looks small enough to be able to get the laminate for cheap enough.
Alternatively Bondo will be your friend for the hole filling, There are a few tutorials about if you've never used it before. (Using the right amount of hardener is key).
Mostly because I wanted some practice sanding and painting. Part of the point of all this is to get some hands on experience trying to do each of these little bits that I might need to do on a larger project. So paint, laminate, t-molding, plexiglass, etc.. all strike me as components i may end up having to work with.
I used to use Bondo on cars actually and was a bit surprised to see folks using it on wood. I guess it works though. Makes sense. I just watched a yt video where the guy tries 6 different methods of filling pocket jig holes and frankly wood filler *looked* easier. No mixing needed. So I dunno.. guess i'll use one or the other.
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What do you think of that Dewalt cordless router?
I love the small portability of it and it routed like a champ. I've used a variety of other manufacturer's tools like Makita, Ryobi, Black and Decker and I'm always impressed by Dewalt's clever designs. They often just seem more thoughtful. I admit it's a little awkward to use as i'm used to my brother's Craftsman 1/2 inch shank router but I think it's mostly a minor learning curve issue. His is much bigger/heavier with a plunger which is an addon that i don't have yet. His adjustment to raise/lower the router is also different. I had to figure out and get used to using it.
The biggest problem using the router was realizing a router table would really make this easier. but i'm hesitant to get another item that i need to store when i can make due without one. We'll see if i change my mind down the road..
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I did them on the inside on my previously butchered cp test boards first thinking i could avoid filling them afterwards and quickly found that they don't hold securely because the screw is orienting outwards towards the edge of the board that you're drilling into. It didn't take much pressure to separate the two boards - the plywood would just splinter apart. By placing them on the outside, the screws drill inwards into the board that you're mating to and are much more secure.
I wonder if you just didn't get it screwed in all the way? I've always pocket-screwed from the inside and it holds securely.
What do you think of that Dewalt cordless router?
I love the small portability of it and it routed like a champ. I've used a variety of other manufacturer's tools like Makita, Ryobi, Black and Decker and I'm always impressed by Dewalt's clever designs. They often just seem more thoughtful. I admit it's a little awkward to use as i'm used to my brother's Craftsman 1/2 inch shank router but I think it's mostly a minor learning curve issue. His is much bigger/heavier with a plunger which is an addon that i don't have yet. His adjustment to raise/lower the router is also different. I had to figure out and get used to using it.
The biggest problem using the router was realizing a router table would really make this easier. but i'm hesitant to get another item that i need to store when i can make due without one. We'll see if i change my mind down the road..
Cool. I'm a big Dewalt fan as well and that cordless one looks pretty slick. But I need another hand router like I need a hole in the head...
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I did them on the inside on my previously butchered cp test boards first thinking i could avoid filling them afterwards and quickly found that they don't hold securely because the screw is orienting outwards towards the edge of the board that you're drilling into. It didn't take much pressure to separate the two boards - the plywood would just splinter apart. By placing them on the outside, the screws drill inwards into the board that you're mating to and are much more secure.
I wonder if you just didn't get it screwed in all the way? I've always pocket-screwed from the inside and it holds securely.
What do you think of that Dewalt cordless router?
I love the small portability of it and it routed like a champ. I've used a variety of other manufacturer's tools like Makita, Ryobi, Black and Decker and I'm always impressed by Dewalt's clever designs. They often just seem more thoughtful. I admit it's a little awkward to use as i'm used to my brother's Craftsman 1/2 inch shank router but I think it's mostly a minor learning curve issue. His is much bigger/heavier with a plunger which is an addon that i don't have yet. His adjustment to raise/lower the router is also different. I had to figure out and get used to using it.
The biggest problem using the router was realizing a router table would really make this easier. but i'm hesitant to get another item that i need to store when i can make due without one. We'll see if i change my mind down the road..
Cool. I'm a big Dewalt fan as well and that cordless one looks pretty slick. But I need another hand router like I need a hole in the head...
I do my pocket holes from the inside as well and don’t see that issue. Maybe an issue with depth settings?
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I do my pocket holes from the inside as well and don’t see that issue. Maybe an issue with depth settings?
Ah interesting. Would've liked to have had them inside instead, just assumed it was poor placement when the boards came apart easier then i'd like. I wonder if it's because i'm using 1/2" plywood and there isn't as much material to bite into? Although the pocket jig has 1/2" setting and screws for them so :dunno
Might be something i just need to practice a bit..
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Oh well. The box looks good. Reminds me of how I got started. Now look at me! ;)
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I mentioned earlier that I'd like to put some kind of see-through bottom cover on the panel. I plan to build a ledge that i can screw it into just inside and below the bottom of the panel. i.e. the glass bottom will be recessed slightly vs the actual bottom. I will also put rubber feet on the bottom for the whole thing to sit on.
Question is, what to use for the see through bottom?
More importantly, how thick should i anticipate it being? I need to decide how far down to build my "ledge" for it to screw into.
thinking i'll just hold it in with 4 screws that i can remove if/when i want to do maintenance. but if there's a bitter idea on how to secure it and make it removable i'm all ears. Haven't done any research on any of this..
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As far as thickness goes I like to use Tap Plastics “cut to size” area of their website as you can see both the nominal and actual thickness. If you want it to be clear then your mostly looking at Acrylic or Polycarbonate (sometimes referred to as Plexiglass and Lexan). Thickness depend on how rigid you want it to be, but seeing as how it’s not structural (I’m guessing) probably doesn’t matter too much.
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As far as thickness goes I like to use Tap Plastics “cut to size” area of their website as you can see both the nominal and actual thickness. If you want it to be clear then your mostly looking at Acrylic or Polycarbonate (sometimes referred to as Plexiglass and Lexan). Thickness depend on how rigid you want it to be, but seeing as how it’s not structural (I’m guessing) probably doesn’t matter too much.
Thanks Arroyo! I'll give that a try. I wonder if 1/8" is too thin for a 20" x 9" dimension? I might go with 1/4" of the abrasion resistant acrylic stuff and see how that goes.
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I wonder if 1/8" is too thin for a 20" x 9" dimension? I might go with 1/4" of the abrasion resistant acrylic stuff and see how that goes.
There’s also 3/16” for a number of materials. 1/4” would be plenty, especially if it isn’t load bearing. Also a quick tip that as the name implies they will cut it to size for you both online and at a store. Cutting plastics is a messy job(wear a respirator if you are going to do it), so might be nice to have them do it for you. BTW, I use a respirator whenever there’s going to be any material flying in the air. I didn’t know that early on, so thought I’d mention it.
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There’s also 3/16” for a number of materials. 1/4” would be plenty, especially if it isn’t load bearing. Also a quick tip that as the name implies they will cut it to size for you both online and at a store. Cutting plastics is a messy job(wear a respirator if you are going to do it), so might be nice to have them do it for you. BTW, I use a respirator whenever there’s going to be any material flying in the air. I didn’t know that early on, so thought I’d mention it.
Ya i see they even drill holes for me. Heh! So nice. I totally intend on taking advantage of that.
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another weekend, some more work done..
sanding/wood filling paint prep work..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382443;image)
the "ledge" that I created to support the piece of 1/4" acrylic that I ordered. I want it to be recessed 1/8" and I had to improvise and build corners that it could screw into after realizing the acrylic's holes needed to be a minimum of 1/2" from the edge.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382444;image)
primer courtesy of a spraypaint can..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382446;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382445;image)
black enamel.. I had a heck of a time with these ACE can's of spray paint. *!@#%&!. They were spattering droplets like there was no tomorrow :( . I would've used my friend's automotive sprayer if this was more then just a test project but as it is i figured I could get decent enough results with a spray can. The exterior surfaces actually look pretty good it's mostly the inside that had the droplets. I might try to sand it a bit.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382447;image)
It's good working on a project like this to see what works and what doesn't. In hindsight I should've gone for a smoother painted look by using a wood filler on all the surfaces I was painting. As it stands my pocket holes look smooth while the rest of the wood looks rough. I could've just made it all smooth for a nicer finish. Also I didn't do a great job on my pocket holes. In some cases the screws are protruding which is something I should've paid more attention to ensuring they were recessed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382448;image)
All in all i'm happy with the progress and so far it's pretty well what I envisioned. It's a really nice size and weight which is one of the things I was after. I'm glad I went with 1/2" plywood. Next up, my laminate layer on top and my t-molding when it comes. Then I can get to installing controls.
I'm still debating on whether to try to shove a computer inside of it like a NUC so that it's completely self contained or to just have it as a CP that I connect to a computer. I don't have a NUC to use so that'd be a lot more expensive. I do have a spare Pi laying around but I wanted to play with Mame and LED blinky and hyperspin.
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so i'm looking at some of the components that i need to put inside this thing and some questions come to mind..
how do folks mount their IPAC ultimate I/O boards to the inside of their CP? Any suggestions on suitable products for that? I found some short wood screws and rubber washers that might do the trick which i purchased from ACE hardware.
for the servostick (joystick), i was planning on simply mounting it underneath per the previous profile drawing i posted in this thread. It looks like the distance between the top plate of the joystick and the bottom of the ball is 1 3/8". By mounting it underneath on my 1/2" plywood + laminate i figure the distance between the top of the CP and the bottom of the ball on the joystick will be more like 1 3/8" - 1/2" or ~7/8". In other words i'm losing about 1/2" of the space between the CP deck and bottom of the ball. Space that presumably my fingers might need as i work the joystick. Does that seem ok? i.e. losing some of the height of the joystick by mounting it underneath?
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Nice progress, that's a solid looking first attempt.
how do folks mount their IPAC ultimate I/O boards to the inside of their CP?
Most folks use PCB feet:
(https://www.t-molding.com/media/products/PCB-Feet-4-Pack.jpg)
You can buy them lots of places but here's one (https://www.arcaderenovations.com/pcb-feet-with-screws-4-pack.html).
]In other words i'm losing about 1/2" of the space between the CP deck and bottom of the ball.
There is a reference for standard stick heights based on the stick being used on SlagCoin (https://slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html). Look specifically at the section that says "Bulkiness and Mounting Height". Some sticks were designed with a wood plate in mind, and some were with metal. Accordingly some were meant to be mounted pretty much at the surface, and some below. You can route out of the bottom or the top if you are trying to match the recommended height, or you can buy extended shafts to mount it from the bottom if you'd prefer not to route it out. Keep in mind if you buy extended shafts you are changing the fulcrum point and therefore introducing leverage. It will feel different, and you will probably want a stiffer spring due to the leverage, unless you like the looser feel. A LOT of this comes down to personal preference.
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Hey YRR
You should try out the stick with the resulting length above panel. See how it feels and plays. Also test the stick's throw. You may find that the shaft hits the inside top edge of the hole. The hole may require a chamfer.
You could recess the inside to accommodate the joystick plate; a quarter inch. Im not sure you can get your tool in there though. I use a lam trimmer, and it looks close even for that.
You'd then need to use carriage bolts, or recessed flat head screws, from the top and under your lam. Either of these would take nuts underneath, and might end up being a little more solid than screws into your panel from underneath, especially if you're a gamer who puts is back into it.
I think you're going to want the extra stick length above the panel, but try it out. I wouldn't recommend longer shafts.
NW
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awesome thank-you guys. I ordered the PCB feet. Thanks for the link! beats the heck out of my rubber washers and screws :cheers:
I looked over slagcoin but it doesn't list the servostik explicitly. Nor does ultimarc's website talk about this question. I vaguely recall it is similar to a Sanwa JLF? which slagcoin mentions is generally mounted with 23-24mm which is darn close to my 7/8" inch. If that's comparable that is. The guy in this video mounted it underneath as well so perhaps mounting underneath is fine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_lzq7M3Yqg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_lzq7M3Yqg)
I emailed ultimarc to see what they say. Just trying to make sure I do whats correct and don't want to change shafts.
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Looks like your gonna have a great test control panel to me.. Your so lucky, everything is just easier when your favorite game is not Robotron.. Having to have dual 8 way joysticks that hit those diagonals in a way that feels good is such a pain in the butt..
Enjoy!!
Zeosstud
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Looks like your gonna have a great test control panel to me.. Your so lucky, everything is just easier when your favorite game is not Robotron.. Having to have dual 8 way joysticks that hit those diagonals in a way that feels good is such a pain in the butt..
Thanks :) :cheers:
I miss that game and remember it well.
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If memory serves Servosticks are JLW’s.
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A few cuts in I realized it wasn't going well. Making straight cuts with a circular saw freehand is a challenge to say the least. Yeah, I should've used a guide. Needless to say, I butchered the cuts and stopped 3 boards in.. ;D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382179;image)
Man, that's way straighter than any unguided cut I've made! :cheers:
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another covid weekend, more progress ;D
re-sanding the top, cleaning with tack cloth and denatured alcohol, in prep for my piece of laminate..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382599;image)
applying the piece of laminate..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382600;image)
cut holes in laminate.. messed up the spinner one a bit because it was difficult to center with it being so close to the edge board. nothing that anyone will see when it's installed though.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382601;image)
trimmed the laminate with the router
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382602;image)
headed over to my brothers to use his router table. cut the slot around the edge. that was kinda fun :) Could be the beer i enjoyed afterwards too. Hammered the blue t-molding in. I'm rather proud of how well it butts up against the edges.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382603;image)
Got home and installed the controls. Looking pretty good! Realized i needed a blue joystick ball so ordered that.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382604;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382605;image)
but if course i have a couple of problems.. First, the joystick is currently only held in by 4 x 1/2" wood screws at the bottom. I added some washers so with those and the thickness of the joystick plate they're not going in a full 1/2". But I'm wondering if this is secure enough..? I'm tempted to use the other 4 slots that i seen to add another 4 screws. Thoughts?
But the real problem is my trackball. I can't get one of the bolts in. The other 3 are solid. The alignment of the screw is slightly off. Just enough that i can't get it in. UHG. :banghead: So question is, do i remove it, glue in a dowel, redrill, and get that 4th screw in? Or will 3 hold up for such an application? I don't plan to beat on it much frankly so i may be fine. But the OCD part of me that doesn't like leaving things undone makes me want to fix it. I think I answered my own question. I cleverly found some large washers to put between the trackball and the wood to set the height of the trackball such that it was nice and flush given my wood is only 1/2" plywood and you need more like 5/8".
Another problem i realized is that i can't get my spinner weight on as i have the spinner too tight to the frame board. No way can i get the heavier/larger weight on. I do have the smaller one as well which i think i can get on by carving some of the frame board out using my dremel. I'll have to work on that next as well. ::)
But otherwise it's looking quite good (to my beginner eyes that is). I got my piece of acrylic and it fits nicely on my "ledge". But i won't be installing any of that until i get the internals sorted out.
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but if course i have a couple of problems.. First, the joystick is currently only held in by 4 x 1/2" wood screws at the bottom. I added some washers so with those and the thickness of the joystick plate they're not going in a full 1/2". But I'm wondering if this is secure enough..? I'm tempted to use the other 4 slots that i seen to add another 4 screws. Thoughts?
The problem with using wood screws in MDF is, to paraphrase Danny Vermin in Johnny Dangerously, that you can tighten them once. Once! :lol
If you try to remove and reinstall the screws, the MDF will pulp and strip. :angry:
Use threaded inserts if you want to keep the top of the control panel smooth or use carriage bolts if you don't mind the heads showing.
http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/FAQ#Hardware (http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/FAQ#Hardware)
Four ways to approach this:
1. Turn the joystick 90 degrees and drill new holes for the inserts.
- Easiest way, assuming you have room.
2. Install threaded inserts for the four currently unused slots on the mounting plate.
- Another easy way, assuming the new slots are far enough away from the old holes.
3. Fill the current screw holes with wood filler or Bondo, let it cure fully, sand it down, drill a clean hole, and install the inserts.
4. If none of those methods work for you, you might be able to use a variation on the "Under mount (support blocks)" mounting method in the FAQ.
- Forget routing a pocket and the support blocks, just use two bars like this.
(http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/3/3b/Under_Mount_Metal_Bars.jpg/375px-Under_Mount_Metal_Bars.jpg)
Scott
EDIT: Just realized that you're using plywood, but threaded inserts are still recommended. :embarassed:
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I believe there are roughly 10,569,832,649.5 posts of mine telling people not to use MDF.
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That's a plywood top - no?
It's 3/4"
Just use 3/4" screws and you will be fine.. the thickness of the plate and the washer will keep it from poking through..
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Maybe I should have looked at the pictures instead or reading the comment.
Screws in plywood will hold just fine.
Of course carriage bolts all the way through are the best and most arcade accurate. ;)
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That's a plywood top - no?
It's 3/4"
Just use 3/4" screws and you will be fine.. the thickness of the plate and the washer will keep it from poking through..
1/2" plywood. Thus, the 1/2" screws.
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1/2" plywood. Thus, the 1/2" screws.
Careful. When you get that close in length, it can poke out the other side. Or it can push the wood you didn’t drill out cause you were scared to drill through. I’ve done it more than once.
Edit: looking good by the way. That’s a really good first attempt.
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Thanks all :)
Anyone have a good idea on how to get one of these inserts out of the wood? I'm worried that trying to pry it out is going to cause more damage then good. Perhaps i should leave it and only 3 bolts holding the trackball on.
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only one photo today.. I wired up the innards yesterday and added the small spinner weight once dremelling some room for it to fit against the rear board. Hopefully I've got all the connections right. I was basically following maverick's arcade videos on youtube. One thing I realized is that I need to rethink how i'm going to connect this to my PC. I have a USB port on order that i plan to put on the backside similar to what Arroyo did on his. That should serve as the USB connection. I didn't realize until now that I also need to run a connection to the power 5V power connector and connecting it to an HDD connector isn't ideal. Somehow i need a wall-plug power supply for this. And more importantly, wire it so that there is a port exposed on the rear of the panel such that once i close it up i can still connect it to an outlet.
Anyone know of a good arrangement for that? somehow connect the ipac board to some kind of port on the rear of the CP such that i can simply plug a wall plug in when i want to use it?
I also need to figure out how to connect the servostick's small board's USB port to the PC. perhaps i need a tiny USB hub inside the CP connecting the ipac to the servostick board and to the port that'll go into the rear. Anyone know of a nice super tiny USB hub or similar?
hmm i just realized i haven't connected the 6 buttons to the IPAC. doh! Off to do that too..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382674;image)
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If I was doing it I would use something like one of the following.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/dc-power-sockets/0448370/
Or
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/dc-power-sockets/7051531/
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If I was doing it I would use something like one of the following.
That looks promising. How do i connect the backside of those to a micro USB on the ultimate ipac though?
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If I was doing it I would use something like one of the following.
That looks promising. How do i connect the backside of those to a micro USB on the ultimate ipac though?
5v LED power doesn't go through the micro USB, it goes to the barrel connector top/center of the board.
(https://www.ultimarc.com/images/1/uiowiring_sm.png)
You can either hack a molex extender/splitter (preferred) or hack the barrel-to-molex cable that came with the board.
(https://www.ultimarc.com/images/1/ipacuio_wired.jpg)
Scott
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5v LED power doesn't go through the micro USB, it goes to the barrel connector top/center of the board.
You can either hack a molex extender/splitter (preferred) or hack the barrel-to-molex cable that came with the board.
That's right. For some reason I didn't think of hacking the cable that came with it. Awesome thank-you! I have some parts to order!
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Hey Arroyo what drill bit did you use for this guy? I notice it's 22mm. Did you use 22mm or something slightly larger?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dTg2dOS
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Yeah good question. The metric/imperial thing is always an issue. I picked up this cheap but effective Forstner metric set:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K4HL9OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YThSEb3MC6KS0 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K4HL9OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YThSEb3MC6KS0)
Unfortunately, looks like it’s not available at the moment, but really any metric set will do. I’d go cheap cause you aren’t likely to use it a lot.
If you don’t match the size exactly it will have gaps, which depending on your level of OCD may be tolerable (mines stupid high).
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If I was doing it I would use something like one of the following.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/dc-power-sockets/0448370/
Or
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/dc-power-sockets/7051531/
So I got one of these sockets. And found the following drawing to help me figure out how big a hole to drill and how to connect it, but I'm still not sure how to connect it. The socket itself has 3 terminals while the wire that i'm hacking that'll run from the board to this socket only has 2. I figure the center pin is probably one of the ones that i need to connect to. But the other two i'm not so sure on as i'm not sure what the difference is between a sleeve shunt and a shunt. But if i'm looking at the schematic it appears as though they're bridged anyways so it doesn't matter? i.e. basically connect one wire to the center pin, and the other wire to either of the other terminals?
The other question I have is with the wire itself. There are two. Which wire to which terminal? One wire has white dashes on it, the other does not. Since it's DC, I assume it matters that i connect this correctly. But i'm not sure which wire to which terminal.. :(
http://www.switchcraft.com/Drawings/L712AS_L722AS_CD.pdf (http://www.switchcraft.com/Drawings/L712AS_L722AS_CD.pdf)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382889;image)
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I finally got some of the parts I needed and worked on my connectivity pieces a bit.
I needed a small USB hub to connect the servostick USB port and the IPAC board to the port i was installing on the back of the CP. Found this small one on amazon which seems like it'll work nicely..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383160;image)
I realized that the AC adapter has an indicator right on the back of it showing what is + and what is - on the plug coming off of it. Perfect! I figured I just needed to map this out when wiring the internals. With a little testing with my multimeter to see what wire is connected to what, I soldered it up.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383161;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383163;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383164;image)
Then I turned to drilling the holes on the back of the CP. I quickly realized the wood was too thick for both my plugs and i'd need to cut a larger hole to recess them a bit. Something I would've liked to have done on the inside of the CP but given there was no room to fit a drill in there, I decided to do it on the outside instead. It doesn't look as nice but in the end it got the job done. With a little black enamel fingernail paint I touched up the mistakes and installed everything.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383162;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383165;image)
and here is the internals wired up. You can see the blue USB cables (from amazon) running from the IPAC and servostick to the little USB hub which i tucked inside with some double sided tape. Then the wiring from there to the ports. There wasn't a lot of room so i let my cable lengths large dictate where the ports ended up since i was trying to keep the insides of the box neat.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383166;image)
I then hooked it all up to my PC and ran MAME and it sort of works :D. I got to play digdug :applaud:. By sort of, the joystick works as does the various buttons, but when i loaded up tempest to try the spinner it wasn't doing anything (maybe i need to map something? seems like it was using the joystick instead). I also haven't tried the trackball but it does move my mouse pointer around albeit in the wrong directions (up and down move it right and left and visa versa. is that normal?).
Lastly the servostick switching between 4way and 8way doesn't work. When i try to click the button to switch it, I get runtime -9 errors :(. Anyone know what that's about? I can post a screenshot if that's helpful.
next up once i make sure the spinner, trackball, and servostick switching all work, i'll put the plexiglass bottom on it and feet for one last photo session. Then i'm thinking i'll play with launchbox, LED blinky, and get some more ROM's.
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still struggling to get the trackball and spinner working.
it seems when i go into a game in mame like centipede, hit tab to set the track x analog to the trackball, it doesn't populate when i move the trackball. It's like mame doesn't want to pay attention to analog devices at all or something. Same with the spinner. For example in this the thread below when i select "Track X Analog" and move the trackball, it just stays blank. despite the fact that from the windows desktop moving the trackball moves the mouse pointer.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=155308.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=155308.0)
still struggling to get the 4/8 way servostick to switch. not sure whats going on there either.
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still struggling to get the trackball and spinner working.
it seems when i go into a game in mame like centipede, hit tab to set the track x analog to the trackball, it doesn't populate when i move the trackball. It's like mame doesn't want to pay attention to analog devices at all or something. Same with the spinner. For example in this the thread below when i select "Track X Analog" and move the trackball, it just stays blank. despite the fact that from the windows desktop moving the trackball moves the mouse pointer.
Is mouse enabled in mame.ini?
You may not have a "mame.ini" file since it isn't created by default during install.
Run the MAME executable one time with the "-cc" (create config) switch to generate the file.
i.e. "mame64.exe -cc"
- You can run the command from command line or make a shortcut to the executable and edit the shortcut's properties, adding " -cc" after the executable name in Target.
Open "mame.ini" with Notetpad to edit settings as desired.
- 0 is disabled. (lightgun)
- 1 is enabled. (mouse, joystick)
#
# CORE INPUT OPTIONS
#
coin_lockout 1
ctrlr
mouse 1
joystick 1
lightgun 0
Scott
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Is mouse enabled in mame.ini?
You may not have a "mame.ini" file since it isn't created by default during install.
Run the MAME executable one time with the "-cc" (create config) switch to generate the file.
i.e. "mame64.exe -cc"
- You can run the command from command line or make a shortcut to the executable and edit the shortcut's properties, adding " -cc" after the executable name in Target.
Open "mame.ini" with Notetpad to edit settings as desired.
- 0 is disabled. (lightgun)
- 1 is enabled. (mouse, joystick)
#
# CORE INPUT OPTIONS
#
coin_lockout 1
ctrlr
mouse 1
joystick 1
lightgun 0
Scott
That sounds promising. I will check that out. Thank-you
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I just realized I never posted final photos of this thing.
After playing with it a bit, I decided it really needed a coin button since I kept having to hit my keyboard to add a coin. I didn't like that. So I purchased one and figured out where I could squeeze it in.
I also decided it was now done internally and I could close it up. So I installed the acrylic bottom. I essentially purchased some wood inserts (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026GUEN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and put one in each corner. Then using the rubber feet suggested further up in the thread, I got some longer screws for them and those are what holds it all in place. To gain access, i simply unscrew the 4 feet and remove the plastic. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
I need to get back to playing with the software side of things. Anyways, final (?) photos! Thank-you everyone who's offered some help along the way :cheers:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=384121;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=384122;image)