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The best idea, if you really need to install a higher res mode, is to adjust your range line. Or even better, add a second range line to your chosen present in the monitor.ini file. (Or make your own preset, duplicating the current range line and adding second custom one, but you get the point).

In VMM i had chosen "generic_15" and so I tried to modify the monitor.ini file
from

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monitor "generic_15", "Generic 15.7 kHz", "4:3"
        crt_range0 15625-15750, 49.50-65.00, 2.000, 4.700, 8.000, 0.064, 0.192, 1.024, 0, 0, 192, 288, 448, 576to

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monitor "generic_15", "Generic 15.7 kHz", "4:3"
        crt_range0 15625-15750, 49.50-65.00, 2.000, 4.700, 8.000, 0.064, 0.192, 1.024, 0, 0, 192, 288, 448, 800and I added the modeline 1280 x 800 @ 60.000000 desktop in the user_modes.ini then i have generate the modelines in VMM but without success

I would recommend putting some sort of 15kHz protection dongle on the video card output port. like a Jpac, if you already have one. Or there are several DIY designs here - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,160869.0.html

Yes, i use the JammASD board (I will add this information to my first post)

crt_range1 51550-51700, 60.00-60.00, 2.000, 4.700, 8.000, 0.064, 0.192, 1.024, 0, 0, 800, 800, 800, 800

I need to add this second range line in my monitor.ini file?

Thanks for your help

Is this the thing that they just added to Disney+?  I thought it was a new TV series - I'd watch a movie with the kids...

The problem is that you've set your limits for 15kHz. Allowing that to go as high as 16.2kHz which is where most arcade monitors cut off, you can get:

(600 visible lines + 25 blanking lines) x 50Hz = 16.2kHz

But nothing higher, as you have set VMM to block them. And even that 600 visible lines assumes you have a monitor preset that allows so many.

The best idea, if you really need to install a higher res mode, is to adjust your range line. Or even better, add a second range line to your chosen present in the monitor.ini file. (Or make your own preset, duplicating the current range line and adding second custom one, but you get the point).

The problem with doing this is that programs are going to grab and try to use this higher res mode, you can't account for every situation and guaranteed it's going to present problems. That said, it may not happen often, and if it does, you can remote in and fix it. I would recommend putting some sort of 15kHz protection dongle on the video card output port. like a Jpac, if you already have one. Or there are several DIY designs here - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,160869.0.html

Alternately, get everything set up, save your modelines in VMM, remove that one extra mode, and reinstall the rest and you should be fine - or at least in the same boat as the rest of us

So, your extra range line gets calculated specifically from the video mode you want - 1280x800@60Hz, the mode line for which is going to look something like this:
"1280x800_60 51.6KHz 60.00Hz" 73.48 1280 1298 1314 1424 800 810 820 860 -hsync -vsync

(Number of visible lines each frame + v-blanking) x frames-per-second-in-Hz = scan rate

Scan rate x (visible horizontal width + h-blanking) = pixel clock.

You will then need to go back and work out the timings for the italicised positions below, because it's late and i need to go to bed.

crt_range1 51550-51700, 60.00-60.00, 2.000, 4.700, 8.000, 0.064, 0.192, 1.024, 0, 0, 800, 800, 800, 800

For extra help with the crt_emudriver modelines, there is a monitor presets sticky above that explains a bit more. Pls give that a look, and post up again if you get stuck.

Check the driving cab info thread stickied in the Driving & Racing subforum.  It's been a looong time, but there were a couple solutions back in the day.
I haven't seen anything mentioned about newer versions of MAME, but geecab's hack still might work if compiling MAME is in your wheelhouse.

 
Big Thanks Boomslang

See if you can get a Programmer to make an Input solution... that takes the Optical wheels signals, and
translates them into a limited left and right range of Pot Values.   If you go past the maximum pot values...
the program would keep putting the values back to the maximum values... so they could not go any further.

 The other option, is to make a Cam-Switchable hardware solution.  Where you can engage or disengage
the optical or pot from the drive shaft.

 Yet another option, could be to make a plug-in, pot based Paddle controller... that you use instead of the
Optical wheels.

A big thank you to Michael who has been helping me behind the scene.
Here is a link to his brilliant guide on light guns http://solid-orange.com/1670

I just need to know the questions above and below.

“The trigger signal goes from the gun to the gun sense board, then from the gun sense board output header to the UHID, the other buttons on the gun go directly to the UHID.” - Thanks Michael. I just need to identify the “other buttons”. I need to identify A1,B1,C1,D1 and E1 from the gun. So I know which wire is which. It would be good to know where each wire from the gun goes actually TRG, A1,B1,C1,D1,E1 and 12V.
Some of it may be obvious but I don’t want to guess and risk stuffing it up. I know TRG goes to the gun sense board, but thats all I know. It would be good to know what colour and (B1?) is the X and Y wires ect.

The output header has 9 wires. RET, 1P X, 1P Y, 2P X, 2P Y, 1P F.OUT, 2P F.OUT, 1P TRG, 2P TRG. Please can you explain where each wire goes. I am only using one gun, so I think 1P X and Y go to the UHID. TRG goes to UHID. I am not sure if RET and F.OUT goes to UHID.

I think this thread will be good for dummies like me

I believe Sanic the Hedgehog is also in this movie….

I know this is an old topic but I though I'd mention a problem I found with the "Fix'ed' it Felix" reworking. Somehow the code is interupting the 'fix' button press. As in, it sometimes doesn't actuate when pressed. At first I thought it was my keyboard but I've tested the regular version and this reworked version several times to be sure and the original definitely works on every press but the reworked one skips. If I'm not explaining this very well, you have to sometimes press 'fix' twice to get Felix to do his job. I just use the leaked original now because I'm 100% sure the reworked version isn't working properly. Shame because it looks great with bezel.

I think I ran into the same problem as you.

Using the stock FixitFelixJr.exe both Z and SPACE can be used to jump.  The wrapper's Settings.exe by default maps just SPACE to jump, but both Z and SPACE still work for jumping.  However, I noticed when using the FIFJ.exe wrapper version every few presses of Z for jump wouldn't work, whereas SPACE worked every time to jump.  I then changed the mapping (in Settings.exe) so that Z was set to jump.  With this config SPACE exhibited the problem (failed to work every 2nd or 3rd press) whereas Z now worked fine.

So it appears the problem (at least in my case) was that I was using a button that was not mapped in Settings.exe.  Therefore, the fix for you may be to simply use Settings.exe to map your "fix" button (or map it to a different button).

One thing that might contribute to this problem is that the fifj.cfg file that's included in the FIFJ5.3.zip contains mappings that are different from the "Keyboard Control" mappings you get when you click the "Rest to Default" button.  I didn't take the time to figure out how the default fifj.cfg file maps the inputs, I always reset to defaults right away.

New Chip N Dale movie out this weekend, a Rescue Rangers themed arcade cabinet can be spotted in the garage scene. Looks to be almost a Galaga style cabinet, running the NES game on an LCD. Has just a single joystick though which is several buttons short of what you'd need to play!

Looking closer, I'm not positive it's the NES game. The UI doesn't quite match up.

Still fun to see.

Edit: found another shot, definitely NES game.