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Why not use the geometry tool with switchres?

I am happy to see they are selling another variant here:

OK ... so far I figured out:

-The gun tracking backwards was due to the "TOP" logo not being set or the camera being rotated in the wrong orientation - got that all sorted.
-The tracking is still pretty jumpy - going to work on getting more IR light out of these LEDs ... or maybe I guess I need diff LEDs/diff resistor ... setup ... (using 37 ohm 0.5w)
-Looks like I had to have the trigger wired up to make it through this menu (for some reason I though I could use CTRL on keyb or something ...)

Hello,

First Gun4IR build - I am currently hitting an issue after attaching the Camera.
When I go through calibration I'm unable to make it through due to error:

The 4 IR points must be detected in the camera preview:


In the image we can see that there are 3 points detected ... but if I back up further I can see all 4 ... but I still can't do calibration.

I thought at first, this was due to the IR LEDs not being bright enough - but all LEDs were emitting light fine - I then went as far as to bridge one of them in each cluster to make the other two brighter, as I thought maybe the IR LEDs perhaps were not bright enough ... I'm not thinking this is it though (please let me know of your thoughts though).

I've gone through testing here and made a video to share, please take a look - the one strange thing: It's hard to see but: near the end you can see that the tracking of the mouse picked up in the OS, despite jumping around quite a bit, seems to be tracking backwards when moving the gun left to right .... I thought I must have a wire backwards but checked the wiring diagram (pdf and videos) and I seem to have it correct.  I've even taken out my 2nd camera (for my second gun) and wired that one up and my issue is identical.

Thoughts on what I'm likely doing wrong?

other than trying random things like "0000" "1111" "1234" there was no default code... JVL had no code originally so someone put one on there.

you'll have to reset the system to clear out the code...as it's stored in the IO board. you'll have to remove the battery on it to clear the memory in it (difficult in this machine, as it's soldered in place.)... then boot it up and reset or reinstall the software to original state to totally clear it out and start fresh.

there is a good chance your IO board is going to need the battery replaced anyway... now is a good time to do it.

that said, if someone who owned this machine had megatouch machines too, they may have reused the code from that to keep them the same...the code for those is "4123" and older ones "4777"

if you do manage to get in, you can clear out the code, or change it to something you will remeber.

if you decide to go a cap kit, most of the cap kits are pretty decent with regards to quality... just keep an eye out for kits that has a suspiciously good price. they are often made with really inferior caps.... and while they will work just fine, their longevity can be quite short. a good quality $60 kit will contain every capacitor on the chassis and will be by good manufacturers, and will last you another 30 years. a cheap $12 kit will have the bare minimum of the most commonly replaced caps on that chassis, (sometimes only a half dozen caps) and last you till next year before having to replace them again.

if you decide to roll your own kit just ordering online... be sure you purchase high quality, high temperature, (and if applicable, for your SMPS filter caps...) low ESR caps... and order from a reputable company. (panasonic, nichicon, nippon chemicon  etc. basically anything japanese or if you can find them, american companies... Kemet, Vishay, and so on.) from an equally reputable distributor (mouser, digikey etc.) you are gonna want to avoid ebay, amazon...and sometimes... local electronic suppliers. (mainly you have no idea where they sourced them from.) as they often have quality name brand caps...but have been re-sleeved china caps. (i have a post somewhere on this site with a photo example of a re-sleeve)

avoid like the plague brands like G-Luxon, suscon, capxon... and anything that looks like a smattering of letters of a china sounding manufacturer... Fuhjyyu, Ltec, Omiyo, Wangcho.

Hi, new user here. I'm working on fabricating a modern console to match the original TMNT setup. These are easily the best file versions that anyone has put out there. I can't imagine what the work would have been like to rebuild these on Photoshop.

Does anyone know if they're still available? I put in a GDrive request on the original links but it's been awhile. These should be preserved for all time - or dheck should be selling them!

GM does not scale 224 to 240, it displays 224 lines leaving the 16 remaining ones "black"

Ahhh gotcha, that makes more sense, thanks!

GM does not scale 224 to 240, it displays 224 lines leaving the 16 remaining ones "black"

So sorry for the late response! Yes, it’s available.